richfinn
Well-known member
Use a suitable piece of wire as a gauge, push it down the clean nozzle from the threaded end when it stops that's the correct diameter to make your cut as you make new nozzles mark the diameter on them with a Sharpie.
Applying RTV ( What is your preferred method? )
- Thread starter Wamsutta
- Start date
Use a suitable piece of wire as a gauge, push it down the clean nozzle from the threaded end when it stops that's the correct diameter to make your cut as you make new nozzles mark the diameter on them with a Sharpie.
1Bad55Chevy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2025
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That is the best RTV on the market and the easiest to use. Best part about it is it dosen't dry in the container!
gahrajmahal
Well-known member
Wamsutta, I was thinking about how to respond since I don’t have a lot of projects anymore where I’m applying a thin bead of RTV. Then I continued reading the rest of the posts and WWheeler’s gave an awesome answer followed by an even awesomer answer from richfinn. Guys and gals, this is why I love the Garage Journal!
1Bad55Chevy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2025
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- 623
I use Right Stuff in those cans and its the easiest thing ever. People in this thread are putting WAY to much thought into gasket maker! I didn't even know there was an application gun for tube silicone!
If you use the cheeze whiz cans you regulate the bead width with speed of application. Don't over think this.... its just gasket maker!
rlitman
Well-known member
First, awesome story and thanks for sharing!
Second, this reminds of how many years passed between the invention of the tin can and the invention of the can opener. I have a number of geared tube squeezers designed for artists to get all the oil paint out of the lead tubes, but they're all about emptying the tubes and don't help apply a controlled bead. Tube Grip is a game changer for squeeze tubes for me, and gives just about cylinder/piston tube gun control, without the disadvantages of cylinder tubes (price, seal issues, etc).
Turns out I am some kind of idiot:
Thinking about it now, I didn't try a standard Permatex tube today. Maybe it was too wide? I know this thing pissed me off for some reason. But I can't remember why. (likely operator error, it seems)
Thinking about it now, I didn't try a standard Permatex tube today. Maybe it was too wide? I know this thing pissed me off for some reason. But I can't remember why. (likely operator error, it seems)
Years too late…
Yep. That's what it is. I have the 2" version.
gahrajmahal
Well-known member
Your photo with the Toyota rubber grease looks like it should work alright. I see a small spring underneath. I’ve never seen that before. Maybe it’s a recent revision, or at least since I left the company in 2001.
It would work well with that Toyota tube, which is narrower than the standard Permatex tubes. I suppose those are intended for the 2.5" version. I bought this 2" one circa 2018.
bwringer
Well-known member
A Valco tube squeezerator changed my life. I can't believe I went as long as I did without one.
I also like the spray cheese containers, but they are stupid expensive, and there are times I've needed to use something very specific for a specific job that doesn't come in a spray container.
My Valco tube juicer salso howed up assembled wrong; I don't remember exactly what the issue was, but I had to stare at it a little while to work out where the plate and spring actually belonged. It's not so much the saved effort, it's the greater control over what you're doing.
I also like the spray cheese containers, but they are stupid expensive, and there are times I've needed to use something very specific for a specific job that doesn't come in a spray container.
My Valco tube juicer salso howed up assembled wrong; I don't remember exactly what the issue was, but I had to stare at it a little while to work out where the plate and spring actually belonged. It's not so much the saved effort, it's the greater control over what you're doing.
rlitman
Well-known member
Saving people from buying an extra tool? Well folks, you saw something special happen here today.
I asked Google A I this question :
What is the most common diameter of RTV that GM uses?
Answer :
General Motors (GM) specifies a bead diameter of 3 mm (0.118") for the sealant used as a formed-in-place gasket on their engine components. However, depending on the application and the specific type of RTV sealant, a bead size ranging from 1/16” to 1/4” (2 to 6 mm) may be appropriate.
This diameter applies to situations where RTV sealant is used as a formed-in-place gasket, specifically for areas such as engine components. For example, when sealing surfaces like transmission pans or other components requiring a continuous sealant bead, a Permatex® recommends cutting the nozzle to produce a bead size between 1/16″ and 1/4″. However, a 1/8″ bead is often sufficient for most applications.
It's important to note that the curing time of the sealant can be influenced by the thickness of the bead, with a thicker bead (e.g., 1/4″) requiring a longer cure time compared to a thinner bead (e.g., 1/8″).
What is the most common diameter of RTV that GM uses?
Answer :
General Motors (GM) specifies a bead diameter of 3 mm (0.118") for the sealant used as a formed-in-place gasket on their engine components. However, depending on the application and the specific type of RTV sealant, a bead size ranging from 1/16” to 1/4” (2 to 6 mm) may be appropriate.
This diameter applies to situations where RTV sealant is used as a formed-in-place gasket, specifically for areas such as engine components. For example, when sealing surfaces like transmission pans or other components requiring a continuous sealant bead, a Permatex® recommends cutting the nozzle to produce a bead size between 1/16″ and 1/4″. However, a 1/8″ bead is often sufficient for most applications.
It's important to note that the curing time of the sealant can be influenced by the thickness of the bead, with a thicker bead (e.g., 1/4″) requiring a longer cure time compared to a thinner bead (e.g., 1/8″).
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We have these situations at work and have done a bunch of testing. Without going into details, you want a really consistent bead size. A double bead, side by side with a gap in between can be good. Troweling it with your finger is okay, but not preferred because you sometimes end up with thin spots. We sometimes work sealants with an acid brush. We use those like they are a notched trowel and we’re laying tile.
The contact pressure around the fasteners is going to be a bit higher, so I think it’s ok to have a bit less there, but it must be continuous.
oh, and always remember to solvent wipe with acetone or isopropyl alcohol and let the surfaces fully dry before applying sealant.
We’ve had trouble trapping air bubbles, but that’s not a problem with a water pump or oil pan gasket.
I guess what I would say is neatness counts with jobs like this. We have found female mechanics do an amazing job of this sort of task. Consistency of bead size (even more than bead size) and careful torquing are key to producing a good gasket.
The contact pressure around the fasteners is going to be a bit higher, so I think it’s ok to have a bit less there, but it must be continuous.
oh, and always remember to solvent wipe with acetone or isopropyl alcohol and let the surfaces fully dry before applying sealant.
We’ve had trouble trapping air bubbles, but that’s not a problem with a water pump or oil pan gasket.
I guess what I would say is neatness counts with jobs like this. We have found female mechanics do an amazing job of this sort of task. Consistency of bead size (even more than bead size) and careful torquing are key to producing a good gasket.
I found two other things that will save you guys :
1. Don't have a leaky tube of sealant when playing around with the Valco. The two halves of the Valco will be glued together the next morning.
2. The top plate of the Valco will swivel 360 degrees if you separate the two halves. Make sure the "Valco" label is facing up.
1. Don't have a leaky tube of sealant when playing around with the Valco. The two halves of the Valco will be glued together the next morning.
2. The top plate of the Valco will swivel 360 degrees if you separate the two halves. Make sure the "Valco" label is facing up.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Gee, thanks, guys--another damned tool I didn't know I needed!
both sizes have that small spring now
the spring tension kept both halves in close position
strong enough to grip a tube lightly but not enough to squeeze out whatever is inside
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
I’ve been really happy with this style of applicator as it gives a lot of fine control of how much you are squeezing out.
I have a valco tube grip but I took a chance and bought a "tube squeezing machine", similar to the previous post.
Its only been a week but it seems to work pretty well, but it hasn't been fully tested in a shop environment. It mainly plastic compared to the metal valco. I have better control compared to the valco. I'd be happy if it lasted for at least 3 years before replacing.
Toothpaste Tube Glue Gun Tube Squeezing Machine, 704 Silicone Manual Glue Gun Universal Extruder, Labor Saving Injection Glue Gun for Aluminum Tube Glue, Power Tools - Amazon Canada
Toothpaste Tube Glue Gun Tube Squeezing Machine, 704 Silicone Manual Glue Gun Universal Extruder, Labor Saving Injection Glue Gun for Aluminum Tube Glue in Power Tools.
www.amazon.ca
Its only been a week but it seems to work pretty well, but it hasn't been fully tested in a shop environment. It mainly plastic compared to the metal valco. I have better control compared to the valco. I'd be happy if it lasted for at least 3 years before replacing.
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scooby074
Well-known member
OEMs have gone to non hardening gaskets. Years ago in the Heavy Equip side. We used caulking tubes of Loctite 518 Flex-With-Flanges for most repairs. Solves the problem with excessive silicone getting sucked into places it shouldnt.
Ilikeike
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I’ve just been squeezing it out of the tube and cutting down the plastic nozzle as needed
Since the 80s
Have I been doing it wrong all these decades ?
Dang it. lol.
Since the 80s
Have I been doing it wrong all these decades ?
Dang it. lol.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
The application of RTV has changed quite a bit over the years. I personally prefer Three Bond (Toyota, Yamaha Bond or Hondabond) but the application of the RTV changed when machined aluminum parts became more common. In the older days of stamped steel pans you needed a larger bead to make up for the variations inherent in the stamping process. With the machined pans you really need very little RTV to fill up the machining marks of the mating parts. For this application I like Elring Curil T2 which is a non-RTV (more like a Loctite) type product. It also has the advantage of being impervious to gasoline which no RTV can handle. I too love the Valco Tube Grip.
That's what we've been using forever on the seam between the case halves of VW air cooled engines.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Way too broad a question.
Much depends on the stiffness, straightness and texture of the surfaces to be joined. Some applications will have specific fasteners that will prevent overtightening and squeezing too much out.
Generally, myself, if joining two well machined surfaces without limiting fasteners I'll apply a nominal continuous bead and tighten to something a bit less than final torque, wait for the RTV to V a bit then final torque. USUALLY works well for me.
Field repairs of previously machine applied sealers is something tricky to do, for me anyhow.
Much depends on the stiffness, straightness and texture of the surfaces to be joined. Some applications will have specific fasteners that will prevent overtightening and squeezing too much out.
Generally, myself, if joining two well machined surfaces without limiting fasteners I'll apply a nominal continuous bead and tighten to something a bit less than final torque, wait for the RTV to V a bit then final torque. USUALLY works well for me.
Field repairs of previously machine applied sealers is something tricky to do, for me anyhow.
If you're using Hylomar or Permatex 85420 (both non-drying blue fuel resistant sealants), the best application method is to goop it all over liberally.
Then swipe away the excess like you're caulking a bathtub.
I have an old motorcycle that leaks on the fuel flange on the bottom of the tank - that stuff works...
Cleanliness is everything with any sealant.
Then swipe away the excess like you're caulking a bathtub.
I have an old motorcycle that leaks on the fuel flange on the bottom of the tank - that stuff works...
Cleanliness is everything with any sealant.
Topic of the thread is a person's preferred method.
Hand squeezing for decades is fine.
My preferred method changed from hand to a dispenser.
rlitman
Well-known member
I followed the instructions and did that with my Jeep windshield, and it worked flawlessly with an electric gun, where I could set the flow rate and control my travel speed. It's not so easy to make that work with any manual squeeze gun, Tube Grip included. The last thing you want is something to turn out like this:
