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Appropriate Hammer for Working On Car Suspension

winlinmac

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There's lots of discussion of Drilling and Engineers Hammers and the terms being interchangeable. I recently picked up this hammer (pictured below), and am not sure if I purchased the right one. I intend to use this hammer in conjunction with working on my car's suspension when the time comes. Thanks

ae78b154-058d-4f71-8bf6-b47c0be21ca1_1000.jpg
 
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TheEuronater

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What part of your suspension do you need to hammer with something like that? I'm not a pro but when dealing with my cars I usually use hammers with a softer face, like a dead blow so I don't mar things up. I know sometimes things take more force but for general persuasion I use dead blows.
 
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winlinmac

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I work with Audi / VW's, and I'm due to change struts and potentially, control arms soon. I have a punch alignment kit from Mayhew Pro, and thought it would be best to use a drilling / engineer's hammer in conjunction with it.

What part of your suspension do you need to hammer with something like that? I'm not a pro but when dealing with my cars I usually use hammers with a softer face, like a dead blow so I don't mar things up. I know sometimes things take more force but for general persuasion I use dead blows.
 

rlitman

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I work with Audi / VW's, and I'm due to change struts and potentially, control arms soon. I have a punch alignment kit from Mayhew Pro, and thought it would be best to use a drilling / engineer's hammer in conjunction with it.

That is a drilling hammer. An engineer's hammer is essentially the same thing, except with a longer handle. I find the longer handle just gets in the way.

They're designed to be used with punches and chisels. I've got a couple of the same Estwing drilling hammers (and being a huge Estwing fan, I don't think you can find a better hammer in that format) and am happy with them. But I usually reach for my 32oz deadblow ball peen first. I feel that I can get most of the same impact out of it, with only a fraction of the stress on my arm (wrist and elbow especially).
 

CJM8515

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Ball piens mostly, but I use drilling hammers like that for all kinds of stuff. Problem with the drilling hammer is its a bit unbalanced in some cases and sometimes its hard to get it into tight spots.
 

LXCam

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I suppose if you prescribe to the "one size fits all" program that one would do it. But good luck swinging that bad boy around an upper control arm, your fender might wind up a little worse for the ware.
 
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winlinmac

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Thanks neighbor! :) I don't have much ground clearance, its good to know that I purchased the right hammer from the get-go. The longer handle would have been a nuisance, especially since I don't have hydraulic ramps. I have 32-oz Ball peen from Vaughan which I intend to use as well for the car's suspension.

On the other hand, a 16-oz Craftsman and 7-oz stubby Harbor Freight Ball peen are great for around the house tasks.

That is a drilling hammer. An engineer's hammer is essentially the same thing, except with a longer handle. I find the longer handle just gets in the way.

They're designed to be used with punches and chisels. I've got a couple of the same Estwing drilling hammers (and being a huge Estwing fan, I don't think you can find a better hammer in that format) and am happy with them. But I usually reach for my 32oz deadblow ball peen first. I feel that I can get most of the same impact out of it, with only a fraction of the stress on my arm (wrist and elbow especially).

Its definitely tight space around the upper control arms. If only I had air tools or good electric impact wrench to get the whole assembly off, would be a lot easier.

I suppose if you prescribe to the "one size fits all" program that one would do it. But good luck swinging that bad boy around an upper control arm, your fender might wind up a little worse for the ware.
 
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winlinmac

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Who's the OEM for Craftsman Engineer's Drilling Hammers? Vaughan?

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theoldwizard1

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That one is for when "you need a bigger hammer".

Get a couple of ball peen hammers. A dead blow hammer is handy for somethings but not typically working on cars.
 

Greg85mcss

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There's lots of discussion of Drilling and Engineers Hammers and the terms being interchangeable. I recently picked up this hammer (pictured below), and am not sure if I purchased the right one. I intend to use this hammer in conjunction with working on my car's suspension when the time comes. Thanks



ae78b154-058d-4f71-8bf6-b47c0be21ca1_1000.jpg


I got one like this originally & it is good for tight spaces & easy to aim. The issue is the shorter length limits power. I then picked up an estwing that looks like the first craftsman pictured above. That one is my go to & I use the shorter one to hit against when I need to not dent something.


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APEowner

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A dead blow hammer is handy for somethings but not typically working on cars.

Hmmm. I use dead blows almost exclusively on cars. Soft face for stuff I don't want to mar and a big *** ball peen for suspension work. I've even got a special dead blow hammer for installing pistons.
 

md21722

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What part of your suspension do you need to hammer with something like that? I'm not a pro but when dealing with my cars I usually use hammers with a softer face, like a dead blow so I don't mar things up. I know sometimes things take more force but for general persuasion I use dead blows.

Helpful for knocking tapered joints loose, like those found on tie rods ends & knuckles/ball joints.

I have a 5 pound for when the 2.5 bounces off.

Sure you could mess around with special pullers and separators, but when a nice hammer works why would you?

Also, the bigger the vehicle, the bigger the parts, so a bigger hammer is even better.

I watched a bunch of suspension/alignment guys work and some of the best ones I've found that fixed problems others couldn't simply use the BFH.
 
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winlinmac

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Thanks for the feedback. I'm still curious to know the manufacturer of the Craftsman Engineers Hammers. I know that Vaughan makes the Ball Peins for Craftsman with a slightly darker tint on the handle.
 

JJThrasher

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Usually a hammer 10+ pounds with an 18-24" handle. Pretty good for making stuff loose. Or an air hammer.
 

anndel

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There's lots of discussion of Drilling and Engineers Hammers and the terms being interchangeable. I recently picked up this hammer (pictured below), and am not sure if I purchased the right one. I intend to use this hammer in conjunction with working on my car's suspension when the time comes. Thanks

ae78b154-058d-4f71-8bf6-b47c0be21ca1_1000.jpg

That's too much of a hammer for ball joints, rotors, etc. Ball Pein, say 16 oz or more is preferred.
 
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finn

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I use one of the drilling hammers pictured above, although I didn't know that's what it is called.

I always just called it the BFH.
 

OxJaw

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I use the biggest hammer that I can swing/fit in the area that I'm working (most of the time it's a hammer similar to the one you posted). Piss on beating on **** with a tiny hammer, been there done that and most things are easier to accomplish with a larger hammer if you can swing it and control it.
 

Ramblin Man

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95% of the time, I get by fine with my Snap On 32 oz. dead blow ball pein. I used to swing a 4 pounder, but a few years ago, I tore my right bicep muscle and had to work my self back up.

I discovered then the 32 oz. did great.
 

Tech89

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That's too much of a hammer for ball joints, rotors, etc. Ball Pein, say 16 oz or more is preferred.
Ain't no flat rate tech got the time to piss around with a little hammer like a 16 Oz on ball joints and brake rotors.

-Pat

Sent from somewhere in Minnesota
 

MattPersman

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Ain't no flat rate tech got the time to piss around with a little hammer like a 16 Oz on ball joints and brake rotors.

-Pat

Sent from somewhere in Minnesota

Hawaii unrusted cars vs salt belt cars. 16 must be fine there :headshake:
 

BDT/NWMN

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Estwing builds that hammer because it is the choice hammer for some jobs.. While working on an Audi, that hammer may not be a popular choice.
But that is a nice hammer that would look good in Your toolbox.
 

Finky198

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Thats a mini sledge perfect for when my 40oz snappy ball peen isn't putting out the power I need. Its also great for hitting punches and driving pins.

I really like that little hammer :bounce:


but for suspension I tend to used my 16oz, 40oz ball peen and a 32oz dead blow for persuading things nicely... Seems to work well for me. The type of vehicle has a lot to do with the size and type of the tools u will need
 
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crab

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Well, for striking a pickle fork that hammer should be about perfect. Looks like a good choice .
 

kythri

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Pretty sure I have that very hammer. One of the first I purchased years and years ago (from Home Depot), and I've used it to bang on suspension stuff quite successfully - worked quite well on breaking upper control arms out of knuckles.

Of course, I didn't have prybars then, but, still - great little hammer.
 

speed bump

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A drilling hammer is designed for hand drilling in rock. They have a short handle for better control and come in 2.5 lb-4lb weights typically.

An engineers hammer is more of a general purpose mini sledge.

A ball peen hammer is for surface treating or peening metal.

A dead blow hammer is full of loose heavy shot which absorbs the reactive force from the strike.

As far as the best hammer for suspension work? I suggest having a variety, personally I use the heck out of my drillers hammer and dead blow hammer and rarely use a ball peen hammer unless I need a sub 1lb hammer but YMMV.
 

BFHtime

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A dead blow ball peen is what you need. Dead blow does not bounce back as much, so you can potentially swing harder without having to worry as much about recoil. That would be safer for you and what you are working on. Different sized dead blows for different situations would be even better. The bigger hammer should be able to get the job done will less of a wild swing within reason. Also the area to swing the hammer has to be considered, especially in tight spaces. In a pinch you could your big hammer to strike a dead blow ball peen, to reduce some recoil, and depending on the situation, also create more area for swing, depending on what is in the way. Good luck. Try a dead blow ball peen to feel the difference, then compare to a non-dead blow.
 

DBendr

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One of the nice things about Matco is their secret coding systems for mechanics.
They make it easy ! ;)
You need a BFH ! HERE

But before you use that you need a great BFR HERE
 
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winlinmac

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Thanks for the suggestions, the only dead blow ball pein I'm finding on Amazon are sold by Armstrong.

I find it interesting that you can knock a pin bolt out without damaging the threads. I wonder if a thread restorer can help get the threads back in alignment "if" any get bent during the removal process.
 

csargents1546

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Wish I had a picture of it. I found a modified copper faced hammer. At one time in its past the handle was replaced with a 3/4 inch solid bar. Added a pound or so. It is short. I love the copper faced when I need to hit a part without damaging it. A 32 oz ball peen is also my hammer of choice.
 
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