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AR400 for welding table?

Bob Warner

Active member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
42
Location
Royse City, TX
I got my hands on a piece of AR400 steel. It is 43.5" wide and 17' long, and 3/4" thick.

The plan is to make a welding table from it and I have cut 8' off of the piece. I am building a generous frame but not going too crazy. I have quite a bit of 3" angle that is 3/8" thick that I will use for the majority of the frame. Probably use 4" square for the legs if I can get enough. If not I can use angle but prefer not to.

ANYWAY, the plate is flat as it can be. You can put an aluminum level anywhere on it in any direction and not see light under it anywhere. Both sides are perfect and flat and I don't want to damage the backside when mounting this plate to the frame so that I can flip it if the top ever gets messed up.

I do not want to weld the top on and wonder if there are suggestions on how to mount this with minimal plate damage. I can't just set the plate on the table as I don't want it to move around. It weighs just shy of 900 lbs so if I manage to move it somehow (someone bump it with a truck is not impossible to imagine) it will take a lot to put it back in place.

I don't have room for two tables so will probably sell the rest of the plate.

On a side note, the table has a thin even layer of scale on it and my son wants me to remove that and have a nice shiny tabletop. I like the scale as I can write/draw on the table with soapstone and see what I wrote. What do you guys prefer? If I leave it as is it will not be rusting all the time. I never weld to my tables so I won't be grinding on it creating clean spots anywhere.



Suggestions?
 
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machsnell

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Jun 12, 2010
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942
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Northern Virginia
You are a lucky man that is a hell of expensive piece.of plate

Wish I were closer to buy the leftover.

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Pwrgeek

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Oct 18, 2015
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288
Location
Texas USA
When you get ready to sell the rest let us know. There will be a line (with me at the front). As for how to fasten it down I'd do carriage bolts. Just make them symmetric and they'll work for the other side if you flip it.


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greasyfingers01

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Apr 6, 2015
Messages
143
I don't think there will be a situation where you need to flip it unless you're careless with a plasma cutter or cutting torch. I would stitch weld it in a few spots to make sure it's secure. In the unlikely event you do need/want to flip it, cut the welds with a cutoff wheel, flip, and grind smooth. I do my welding at my buddies shop because he has all the cool tools. He's had his welding table for over 15 years and still looks great. He is a welding/fabricating freak and uses that table for everything.
 

mz44

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Jan 27, 2014
Messages
130
Location
SE Pennsylvania
Weld a some lugs on to it that can be bolted to the frame. If you ever need to flip it, you can cut the lugs off and grind it smooth. Its a welding table, not a dining room table, your not gonna hurt it.
 
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Bob Warner

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Dec 7, 2013
Messages
42
Location
Royse City, TX
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This is the back side and the edge where I cut it.

I am having people contact me about buying it. Not sure the best way to do this. Nobody has made an offer, all just inquiring about if I'm selling.

Therefore, if you are interested in the 43.5X9'X3/4" plate please PM me an offer.
At one time I had to sell my tools due to a wreck so I would consider welding equipment in trade for all or some of the value.

It would have to be picked up at my shop, ZIP 75173

Please don't post your offers here, PM them.
 

36truck

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Jul 13, 2010
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980
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UP of Michigan
More than likely you will never need to flip your plate over. But if you really think you need to make a frame work to set it into. Some small angle iron would work.
 
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matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,722
Location
SE Michigan
Two things come to mind.

1- its Abrasion Resistant plate, the material you'd use inside of a dump truck box hauling gravel & sand constantly. I wouldn't worry too much about scratching it. You should be able to move it with an engine hoist of appropriate capacity, some slings, etc. Forklift would be perfect. Flipping it would be more work, a plate-jaw would be a good choice, but may be able to work carefully with a stout c-clamp.

2- If you don't want to weld the top, you're pretty much down to bolts, which are going to leave something that's not in-plane, unless you use something like a flathead socket screw. But...trying to machine a full countersink in the material you have there is going to be a challenge. Magnetic drill might do it, definitely plenty of cutting fluid, use MA Ford or Melin Tools countersinks, and Tap Magic. Run the countersink about 10rpm. Its not going to be fun for you or the edge tools. I would put 4 tack welds on it, 1" long. That will hold your top to the base for anything short of a crash with a moving truck.
 

Cyberbear

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Nov 23, 2013
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1,524
Location
California
A 900 pound piece of steel is not likely to move easily w/o some help, like your mentioned truck encounter. Just place the top on your supporting frame, and, if it ever needs positional adjustment, simply jack it up enough to get some short pieces of 1/4" steel rod underneath and roll it back into position, then remove your rod rollers. I've moved much heavier things with only a pinch bar or jack and a few pieces of water pipe. Pretend you're an Egyptian.
 

Warrenator

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May 31, 2008
Messages
781
Location
Newberg, OR
Use epoxy glue, no, I am not kidding. Make your stand so there are some nice big surface area flat spots, throw some glue on there, table on top. Weight will hold it down, glue will keep it from sliding. No warp from heat. Place it right the first time because it will be tough to move once set.
 
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Bob Warner

Active member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
42
Location
Royse City, TX
I actually thought of that. My son has some (500+ tubes) of the epoxy stuff they use to glue threaded rod into concrete. Gave me a couple tubes. It's two part epoxy with some crazy holding ability. Might do that.

Thanks
 

JerryC

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Apr 28, 2012
Messages
244
Location
Memphis TN
How about using a piece of angle at the edge of each side of the plate that are tied back to the base?
The plate would sit on the base inside the angles. No need for bolts or welds.
 

shadyluke

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Oct 3, 2014
Messages
267
Location
SE Pa
Weld or bolt it down. Even at a few hundred pounds if you are beating on something it will bounce and rattle on the frame.
 

JerryC

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Apr 28, 2012
Messages
244
Location
Memphis TN
He could bolt or weld at the angle pieces I mentioned to the edge of the plate without affecting either of the flat surfaces.
 
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