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Arbor Press anchor

250

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I picked up a Greenerd 3 1/2 ratchet arbor press and I'm looking for suggestions on how to anchor the stand to the floor. Is there a consensus on how to do this? Do I need to compensate for the 5 tons of press or just keep it from tipping over?

front
IMG_1553_zps2vgn1pxl.jpg


rear
IMG_1554_zpsek5qwceu.jpg
 
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matt_i

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This is where I use a drop-in anchor. Its probably not up to the full tonnage but will allow you to relocate it without having to rig the machine vertically up and over a stud. Good enough to use the machine up to its normal capacity.

Depending on the class of work you intend to do, it might not need to be anchored, although it is still a good idea. Little dowel pins and small keyway broaches not too big of a deal, but if you are going to use it to change ball joints, some of those are quite tight.

I have found myself hanging on the ~4foot arm of a Dake #4 arbor press (quite a serious machine, its 1200#) trying to dislodge a stuck B&S taper that was overtightened with a drawbar. A hydraulic press would probably have more tonnage but there's no "feel" with that style press.

barber_colman_11.JPG
 
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Cyberbear

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Simply bolting the unit to the floor was how it was made to be used. There are some who would use a cheater extension handle, but that is wrong, and is partially the reason for bolting to the floor, to keep from tipping the unit over.
 

lonestarky

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I suppose i should ask, is that concrete, and at least 4" thick?

Unless you can pick it up off yourself with broken ribs, anchor it to the floor with anchors the size of the holes. Get it set, mark your holes, and hammer drill w/masonry bit. Drop in red-head or similar, (expanding concrete anchor) and tighten. Be sure to use a washer before the nut on the anchor. If you decide to move it, beat the anchor into the ground, or grind it off. Fill the hole with epoxy. Done.

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250

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I don't know the thickness of the concrete, basement workshop in a house we didn't build. I suppose I could drill a through hole to get an estimate of the thickness.

I'll take a look at the red heads on the way home.
 
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metalmagpie

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My large arbor press (Famco 3-1/2C, factory cast iron stand) not only isn't bolted to the floor, it's on a rolling base I made for it. Never had a problem.

metalmagpie
 
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250

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Since we all hate a thread that has no closure.

IMG_0028_zpsukgxscwx.jpg


Not the original handle, but should do just fine. Anchored it down with the red heads, and while it probably would have done ok with the other methods suggested, it was pretty cheap peace of mind.
 

383 240z

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Can ANYBODY who owns one of these PLEASE post a few photos of the ratchet mechanism on these presses? I've got one and the ratchet was cobbled together, I'd like to make the correct parts for it. Keith
 

jrb2

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Here are some pictures of my Dake Model 1 1/2.
 

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zkling

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Since we all hate a thread that has no closure.


Not the original handle, but should do just fine. Anchored it down with the red heads, and while it probably would have done ok with the other methods suggested, it was pretty cheap peace of mind.


Good, proper solution. To answer your question, the maximum force you need to account for is the total about the front edge of the base due to your weight at the extreme end of the handle. The 5 tons is due to the gearing generated on the ram.

Can ANYBODY who owns one of these PLEASE post a few photos of the ratchet mechanism on these presses? I've got one and the ratchet was cobbled together, I'd like to make the correct parts for it. Keith

They are not complicated at all, the reason they may look so large and complex is due to the counterweight portion out back.
 
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lonestarky

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Glad to hear you did it up right.

Worst you'll have to do is beat them into the concrete.

Looks great!

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