Architect assistance needed in P.G. County Md

[aero993]

Hello,

Here is my situation, I purchased some garage plans from 84 lumber (32' X 24' 3 car garage 3 doors). The county is telling me that they don't meet code for two reasons. The first being, that the walls on the front panels are two narrow. The second being, that they say that I should being using (2) 32' -1" header. The current plans call for (2) 3/4" X 9 1/2" MICRO-LAM beam header for each garage door.
That being said, I'm looking for an architect to either design me a garage or provide me a solution to my problem. One that will not cost me an arm and a leg.

TIA,
Anthony

 

[KELLHAMMER]

I am not licensed in Maryland. But, I can suggest some things. You could have a LVL manufacturer (Weyerhaeuser) or a lumber yard assist with sizing your headers. And I not talking about a Home depot or Lowe's. I'm talking about the outfits that serve the pros. 84 Lumber does have an engineering services in-house I believe. I think the office is in Lancaster PA. You can get the number for your local store This should be an hourly service or maybe free if your purchasing all your material from them. Also, could you explain some more about the issue on the front wall of the garage. Could it have been that ratio of solid wall to door openings being to large and requiring a shear or moment frame ? This is alilttle more involved and has to do with wind loading. And is meant to prevent racking.
So again a structural engineer could help with that.

 

[aero993]

Here is the problem, there are 2 corners, each are 15 inches wide. There are also two 15 inch panels separating each garage door. Which makes each panel 15 inches wide (4 x 15 = 60 inches = 5 feet) each garage door is 9 feet wide (3 x 9 is 27 feet). When you add the garage doors and the panels you come to 32 feet. The are saying the the narrow panels don't meet code. They are also saying the the 9 3/4 inch header over each garage door doesn't meet code. I was told to go to apawood.org and to look at Narrow Wall Bracing. I was also told to increase each panel to 16 inches wide. Also I was told to use (2) 32 feet continuous headers. When I called today to get clarification of something I was told. I was told that the solution that I was given on Friday wouldn't meet code. I hope that my diagram below helps clarify things. I think, as long as the plans meet the 2003 international residential codes it will pass. 84 Lumber old me that the plans were about 30 years old, maybe that is why they don't meet code.





15 inches wide * 4 = 60 inches = 5 ft
3 * 9 feet garage door = 27 feet
27 + 5 = 32 feet wide garage

 

[blkhonda1991]

could you make one of the garage doors a double and use that 15 inches to meet the shear wall criteria? as for the header issues im not quite sure why they are saying they dont meet code as they are designed by the lumber companies and its quite easy to see if they work in your application

 

[aero993]

I don't know the code, that's why I bought the plans. I thought the plans sold by a local company in my county would meet my county building codes. I guess I'll pay someone to draw me some plans that will pass the inspection and request my money back from 84 lumber. Why would a company continue to sell plans that don't meet the code? It reminds me of the lottery continuing to sell scratch off tickets after the grand prize has been claimed. BECAUSE THEY CAN.

 

[larry4406]

I don't have the answer for you but can add some insight. The County is failing your plans because the front short walls are not adequate to be considered a shear wall.

On the houses I built per IRC 2003, we underwent major framing changes to include APA (American Plywood Association) shear walls - this applied to the garage openings. Narrow walls (edge of garage door to side of building) are problematic. Basically, the Code is trying to stifffen the structure so that the wall will not "rack" in response to a lateral load. There are standard APA panels when the lengths are met and then there are special engineered panels which are created to meet unique situations.

Typically, there were embeded "J" anchors in the concrete holding the sill (expansion anchors or Hilti's were prohibited), 30" metal straps under the sill to wrap upwards and nail to both sides of the studs, the headers were typically 11-7/8" minimun and ran long over the narrow wall - no king studs, only jacks, and were fully sheated in OSB with a specific nailing pattern (I think edges were 6" O/C 10d's while field was 8" o/c 10d's). There was a minimum width to the narrow walls. Attached is an example.

Good luck.

 

[PowerDubs]

I'm looking for an architect to either design me a garage or provide me a solution to my problem. One that will not cost me an arm and a leg.

Why does everyone always expect architects to work for little or no cost? If you knew the amount of work & schooling it takes to do the job right you wouldn't work for free either!! I can't tell you how many times I hear stuff like "I got some plans off the internet and I just need them signed off on.."

 

[cw_racefan]

Probably not much help here, but I used 84 Lumber plans for a 32x36 in AA County with no issues at all. 84 does have some in house engineering, since they designed attic trusses for me, so I would suggest going to them and seeing what they'll do.

To get someone to draw up plans with an engineers stamp is gonna cost you, as it should. There's alot of liability that goes with that PE stamp.

 

[aero993]

PowerDubs,

I'm not looking for anyone to work for free. I am willing to pay and have always paid. I need assistance with one wall and I am willing to pay for it. When my car breaks down. I can take it to the dealership and pay way too much. Or I can take it to an independent garage. Both can fix my car, but one charges quite a bit more. My car goes to the independent garage. With that being said, if someone devalued your profession I feel your pain. But that was not my intent, please have a nice day.

Cw racefan,
The solution could be as simple as making the inner panels wider. I am willing to pay for someone's knowledge and expertise. I don't need the whole garage designed just the front.

 

[PAToyota]

If it is a simple matter of needing a shear wall, look into Simpson Strong-Wall systems.

For the header, I'd use one continuous LVL across the whole thing.

As for selling plans that don't meet code, it is sort of like all the automotive products that are labeled "for off-road use only" - meaning that they don't meet any DOT regulations and you stand to get a ticket if someone catches you on road with them. If you read all the fine print, I'll pretty much guarantee that somewhere in there it says you are responsible for making sure it meets your local codes.

And just as a side note, 84 Lumber has its headquarters in Eighty Four, Pennsylvania - out towards Pittsburgh - where they got started.

 

[KMR Construction]

The front of the building doesn't have enough shear strength. Have a engeneer look at it. Maybe just make it 34' across the front giving you more room between the edge of the door and corner. Make sure you put a full sheet of plywood at the top of the wall and nail 3" on center around the edge and 6" in the field. Blocking the seams w 2x4's.



this means a bigger garage as well

 

[KELLHAMMER]

Aero
You most likely don't need to have a new set of drawings. Have a local structural engineer review them. He can address the relevant issues and provide simple sketch solutions on how to correct them. The header sizing is simple and the shear wall ratio needs to be addressed. That may mean increasing panel sizing at the ends(corners) and between doors. As far as true shear panels. Most times it is costly to design, fabricate and install "pre-engineered" shear panels and even more costly for custom designed shear panels or moment frames. Most times those designs require the foundation to follow suit and be designed to act as one with the panels. Which increases costs and requiring careful and tedious detailing and installation.

 

[kvom]

My front is 25' across with 2 10' doors, hence similar relief walls. I had to have anchor bolts in both the corners and the center, and also have a solid LVL beam across the entire front.