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Arclight CNC Plasma Table

REKIII

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Oct 30, 2014
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I've been slowly getting this set up. Steel need to run airlines and such. Quite a learning curve in the hardware. The software seems straight forward. I use CAD on a daily basis at my day job so that is a non-issue.

I see there are a few others on the board with these, but must are doing the much more honorable home build. I didn't have the time for that, nor did I want to jump into this and keep second guessing my build.

Tips/tricks? Any good link for Plasma cutting for beginners? Hahaha.

Pretty neat piece of equipment

 
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bullnerd

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"Pretty neat piece of equipment"

NEAT! NEAT? Dude you have one of the most bad *** pieces of equipment sitting in your shop now! Arclight is the ****!

Congrats!
 

Griff93

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I have a Dynatorch 4x8 myself. One thing I've learned that I wish someone had told me is cut slower than recommended for best cut quality. The charts are for fastest acceptable production. Also make sure your setup to slow down to around 60% of travel speed in corners and smaller holes. These two things make a huge difference in how it will cut. Also go get a membership to PlasmaSpider. There's thousands of shared dxf files on there that you can cut out.
 
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REKIII

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Oct 30, 2014
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"Pretty neat piece of equipment"

NEAT! NEAT? Dude you have one of the most bad *** pieces of equipment sitting in your shop now! Arclight is the ****!

Congrats!

Thanks, I am pretty excited about it. I'm glad I'm in a position to be able to play with it and get good before I start to market it.

I have a Dynatorch 4x8 myself. One thing I've learned that I wish someone had told me is cut slower than recommended for best cut quality. The charts are for fastest acceptable production. Also make sure your setup to slow down to around 60% of travel speed in corners and smaller holes. These two things make a huge difference in how it will cut. Also go get a membership to PlasmaSpider. There's thousands of shared dxf files on there that you can cut out.

Thanks for the tips! Dynatorch is an awesome piece of equipment. I assume you have one of their HD units?
 

Griff93

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I bought a 4x8 SuperB with an A80 Thermal Dynamics cutter. One reason I bought a Dynatorch is they are local to me. It's nice to be able to run over there 15 minutes away to get parts and consumables. The HD units we're out of my price range. I may upgrade one day but for now I really like this table. It takes awhile to get everything to support the table all setup. To really get the table fine tuned there's a definite learning curve. It's not just load the DXF and go. What are you using for CAM software?
 

tarbellb

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Apr 17, 2011
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Oregon
Keep us posted, looks like a nice setup.

Two things I noticed:

Whats up with the visual distortion of the grid on your table? Seems like the slats under
the torch have way more arc to them? Visual mindfnck or ?

Second, take the plastic off your compressor when you start using it :)
 

Crusarius

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Aug 22, 2013
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It appears that all the slats are arc'd. that make alot more sense than doing a grid like most others I see.
 

Whiskeymike

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I have a Bulltear/Starlab with Hypertherm 65. I get the best results running from the cut charts in the manual. Usually if I have a problem, it's because I fat fingered the settings when entering it from the book. Otherwise, I have the wrong consumables in the torch or it's gotten fouled from a pierce. Keep a copy of that chart and the diagram showing the consumables for your machine torch handy.

Definitely watch the Arclight videos. I watched the heck out of them since they use Sheetcam and Mach 3. After you've watched them, and then used the table that way, watch them again. I learn new stuff each time because in the first pass, I didn't have the basics figured out to know why certain things work a certain way. i.e. Cut rules.

+1 on plasma spider. Lots of great folks there to help you out.

Also, keep a note book and track your changes. Changes seem like a small thing that you could remember, but after a couple weeks, changing consumables and different sheets, I have no hope to remember what lead in I used and was successful for a certain part. Once you learn something that works for a certain part, take note of it and refer back.
 
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REKIII

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Glad I am in the company of others with similar setup, yes Mach 3 and Sheetcam is what I'm using. I've heard it can be finicky with windows, and a lot of manufacturers are switching over to Linux based machines. None were available at the time of my purchase though.

Yes, the plastic will come off the compressor. Waiting to get an airline package together so I can pipe the whole shop in addition to the Plasma.

I will look into Plasma Spider, the one reason I was hesitating is because I do cad work every day, I can literally draw anything I want, even folded stuff and flatten it for the flat pattern. Still, it's probably not a bad resource.

So far the videos have been great, and you're right you need to watch them a few times because some assume I know things that I don't yet. When I got the table to jog I was unreasonably excited. Haha.
 

kazlx

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Oct 30, 2012
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Arclight is awesome. There's definitely times I wish I had just bought a table from them, even though I built my own. If I did purchase a table, it would be from them. They run the same software as I do (Mach3) and have great videos. I run a Powermax 85 and get great cuts right off the book specs. Like mentioned, usually if there's an issue it's because I mis-typed a setting or something.

If you need any specific help, just shout, there's a few of us here that run similar setups. I think pretty much all the technical stuff you need has been setup from the factory, so you shouldn't have to mess with it. But if you want to specifically know how to do something just ask.

IMO, plasma spider is kinda goofy. Some decent info on there, but better resources elsewhere. That site seems to consist of 90% people that want to logon, download free files and cut them to sell, and it's mostly artsy type stuff. Not that there's anything wrong with sharing files, but most of the stuff I have got from there is ****. If you can quickly draw your own stuff, you will get very little from there. It also seems to end up with just a bunch of people arguing over stupid **** too. More so than most forums. Plus, there's minimal traffic.

The money is in using the table as a tool to either build cool stuff of your own design, aid in making some sort of product or smallish (or more) production run parts for people. You'll want to shoot yourself trying to make custom one off things (usually artsy) for people that most aren't willing to pay for. I actually have a few good customers I do one off parts for, but they are usually simple or they provide me with drawings.

I might have to pick your brain on flattening sheetmetal parts :D
 
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REKIII

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Thats kind of what I was thinking going in. I know I could build one, but after all the hassle, I probably would have wished I bought one, maybe if I need a second one.

Let me know if you have any questions creating flats. I have SolidWorks, so it might require me re-drawing in that, then flat, then exporting a new DXF.
 

kazlx

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Yea, overall, I'm happy with my table, but it's nice to hit the ground running. I use Fusion360, really hoping they make a sheet module like SW. I should learn how to use SW as well.
 

LivnDream

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Nov 15, 2009
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Greenville, Mich
Thats a sweet piece of equipment ya got there. Some day i will have one in my garage too

any chance one of you gentlemen that have a cnc plasma table could cut me some parts from my dxf files ?
 

Ralphxj

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Mar 25, 2008
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NE Ohio
Been cutting on my table with Sheetcam and mach3 for a couple years and just found the Arclight videos because of this thread. Started watching them and have already picked up some tips and tricks I didn't know about that will help cutting.

Thats a sweet piece of equipment ya got there. Some day i will have one in my garage too

any chance one of you gentlemen that have a cnc plasma table could cut me some parts from my dxf files ?

Shoot me a PM with what you are looking for. I could either meet you in NW Ohio if it's a big order or ship cheap at work.
 

Crusarius

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Aug 22, 2013
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Upstate NY
One day I would like to get one of these. has anyone ever tried angling the table so it takes up less space (cutting area at a 45 degree angle from the floor)? curious how well the steel with stay in place. I doubt it will effect the cut any. Is everyone using water tables? or just fans?
 
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REKIII

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Mine is a water table. The fan table is quite a setup, requires a big fan, exhaust out the shop, make-up air etc. A lot more work to do. Some guys with smaller tables use no water or fan.

Burn Tables makes a table that sits against the wall. Pretty neat set-up, but I've read all kinds of horror stories about Burn Tables in general so I stayed away. You'd have to secure the metal somehow so it wouldn't slide....magnets maybe? Not sure how they do it. Also, water table isn't an option, but you could put a hood over the top to **** the air out.....like a stove.
 

kazlx

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An angled table would be more hassle than it's worth. Plus, a water table is probably the best option for controlling smoke in a home shop. I've read that a downdraft table is the ideal method for cutting as you get the best edge quality, but it's a bit more involved. It would be nice not having to deal with water all the time though. Even though it's relatively necessary, it's the part I hate the most about running the table.
 
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TimeWarpF100

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not here
I've been slowly getting this set up. Steel need to run airlines and such. Quite a learning curve in the hardware. The software seems straight forward. I use CAD on a daily basis at my day job so that is a non-issue.

I see there are a few others on the board with these, but must are doing the much more honorable home build. I didn't have the time for that, nor did I want to jump into this and keep second guessing my build.

Tips/tricks? Any good link for Plasma cutting for beginners? Hahaha.

Pretty neat piece of equipment


Nice looking setup! Wish I had the Space & $ for one.
 

Crusarius

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Aug 22, 2013
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Upstate NY
I prefer the downdraft table. its really not that difficult just need either a filter system or to vent it outside. The water tables I have been around have a tendency to get very nasty and smelly. plus I hate water around raw steel.
 

kazlx

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Mine doesn't smell, but it is a pain in the ***. It splashes when cutting closer to the edges, makes a mess and then there's the obvious 'getting steel wet' issues. Downdraft would be ideal IMO, but mine is in my garage in southern Cali suburbia and blowing stuff outside wouldn't even be an option.
 

Griff93

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Outside vent as my table is right next to an exterior wall anyway. I've already done a lot of the duct work. I'll do another thread on it at some point. I don't want to clutter up this one.
 
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REKIII

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At least post a link to the new thread. My table is sitting right next to a wall too. The make-up air is why I didn't consider it, but it could be converted with some ingenuity in the future.
 

ishiboo

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Oct 27, 2010
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Oshkosh, WI
Keep us posted, looks like a nice setup.

Two things I noticed:

Whats up with the visual distortion of the grid on your table? Seems like the slats under
the torch have way more arc to them? Visual mindfnck or ?

Second, take the plastic off your compressor when you start using it :)

Slats on plasma tables are usually arced, if they were straight and you happened to cut a straight line over one, it would make a mess of that slat and possibly the workpiece. As a gradual arc, it's far less likely you'll cut exactly over the slat for any extended distance. :)
 

Elvenhome21

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Feb 12, 2013
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Sheboygan WI
water table does have its place. I would never use a table with a open bottom like that. Way to messy. But If you put a cowl under it with an exhaust fan it would be bad except fishing out small parts will be a nightmare. Water tables are very nice because if you run the water to within 1/2" of the part, as you cut it will splash water under the steel and cool it. keeps it from warping and you can grab it with your fingers right after you cut it.
 
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REKIII

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How rigid is that frame? Doesn't seem like there is a lot of mass too it.

8020 aluminum extrusion is VERY ridged. Both ends are a steel pipe with 1/4" plate welded too it. Underneath there is steel channel running the length. That all being said, the Z axis auto-senses the depth, so if it does get a but saggy it will compensate.

Subbed, I am ordering a 4800 in a few weeks. Hope its a smooth process.

Edit: Congrats ! Its freaking sweet.

It should be a smooth process the people at arclight were great to work with. There were some shipping issues, but it was caused by the shipper, not arclight.
 

kkroger

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Apr 21, 2013
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I run a water table and I use Arm and Hammer washing soda in the water (no rust)
I get awesome edge quality. No problems here. I looked at a lot of factory tables before I built one, I would have paid 2 or 3 times what I paid for a factory table. I bought a gantry and bought the electrics, I built the frame and water table. Most factory tables (all the ones who responded to my inquiries anyway) were a 4 week lead, my electrics were a 4 week lead.. Gantry arrived in 2 days, I had the table built and waiting on the electrics. Meh to each his own, I would have bought if it had worked out that way. I would have gone with a 5x10 table if I had the space. I just don't, Though I have a 5x5 and it makes me a living, paid for itself in 6 months time, and turned into a profession. it pays my house payment every month easily, pays me to eat, buy other equipment, and so forth. we ran a sale on wall art a month or so back and Gross receipts was $60k, after expenses and payroll Net was $40k... over a 3 day weekend... We have a major national retailer wanting to put our stuff in their stores, (we being me and my business partner I do all the cad and design work and he does all the finishing and paint), We do architectural metal work for business customers as well as Corporate signage, I have posted samples before. These things can make you some money!
 
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REKIII

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I run a water table and I use Arm and Hammer washing soda in the water (no rust)
I get awesome edge quality. No problems here. I looked at a lot of factory tables before I built one, I would have paid 2 or 3 times what I paid for a factory table. I bought a gantry and bought the electrics, I built the frame and water table. Most factory tables (all the ones who responded to my inquiries anyway) were a 4 week lead, my electrics were a 4 week lead.. Gantry arrived in 2 days, I had the table built and waiting on the electrics. Meh to each his own, I would have bought if it had worked out that way. I would have gone with a 5x10 table if I had the space. I just don't, Though I have a 5x5 and it makes me a living, paid for itself in 6 months time, and turned into a profession. it pays my house payment every month easily, pays me to eat, buy other equipment, and so forth. we ran a sale on wall art a month or so back and Gross receipts was $60k, after expenses and payroll Net was $40k... over a 3 day weekend... We have a major national retailer wanting to put our stuff in their stores, (we being me and my business partner I do all the cad and design work and he does all the finishing and paint), We do architectural metal work for business customers as well as Corporate signage, I have posted samples before. These things can make you some money!

That is really cool. Looking to get there with this. Still trying to figure out how to price things.
 

kkroger

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That is really cool. Looking to get there with this. Still trying to figure out how to price things.

Pricing you need to figure out your cost per square inch on the material.
Then double it, then figure a cost per inch of cut, per pierce, etc. this is to cover your consumables.

With "Art" you can charge what the market will bear, we figured our shop hour for "Custom" work is around $275 an hour if we stop production completely that is what we are losing... we can do 50 individual items per hour, complete, with finishing etc, those items sell pretty easily for $175 and $200 (with LED lighting) each is app 20" x 12" Two layers of 18 Ga steel with bolts nuts and spacers. the Backer is powder coated and the facer has an artistically applied grind pattern then a clear powder coating is applied.

for a 5'x2' outdoor business sign we charge $1200, Burnished front and powdercoated finishes, includes installation and digitizing of company logo.
Bold%20Trans_zpsiutpiyae.jpeg


For some of the other decorative iron work we charge thousands...
We did a fallen officer memorial for the Fraternal order of police, 4'x8' plate rolled "Wave" with a 3'x5' panel attached on the front with a 6"x5' panel plasma cut header on that panel with the names of the fallen on engraved plates all over that front panel. 450# installed up 3 flights of stairs, Rental of a portable lift that could go up the stairs. $6000 plus they had several other projects...
20160311_161130_zpsokj98ubr.jpeg


Some we are doing for a local bar chain (10 locations multiple items per location) the "Johnny" is 42" tall to cover the back of a TV, the Arrow is 7' long plus the Re-bar wrap (per customer request) their old iron had Re-bar around it and looked like it was hand cut by someone with DTs...
Johnnys%20Shawnee_zpsnvojf8tt.jpg


We stay very busy, seemingly the hottest metal fab in town.
Even little stuff like some signs for Parade of Homes, and another attraction with signs with a piece of re-bar welded on for a stick, to shove in the ground... Powder Coated single color red. about $1000 on the labor for all of their order.

There is a CNC Plasma pricing Spreadsheet out there too.

Here is Jim Colt's method for charging for plasma work
"When I cnc plasma cut metal that is not considered art...here is my formula:

1. Know what you paid for the material.......mark it up to reflect your handling costs (its hard to move plate around your shop.....and did you have to pick it up at the supplier?)......on most plate under about 1/2" you likely should double the purchase price. Do the math and figure out your selling price per square inch.

2. If your plate works out to $.05 (5 cents per square inch).....use this same figure for your plasma cutting cost per lineal inch.....if you are using an air plasma with good cut quality and good consumable life (Hypertherm). I have done calculations for years trying to compensate for different thicknesses, the number of pierces, what it costs to grind dross.....and I find that this method works best.

3. Draw an imaginary rectangle around the part you need to cut. Figure out the square inches of the rectangle.....and this is the amount of material you should charge for.....this compensates quite well for waste and scrap metal that you likely will not be able to use. So...if you have 60 square inches, multiply it by the selling price for the material you are using (from 1 above, let''s use $.05 per square inch)....so the material price is: 60 x .05 = $ 3.00

4. Use a measure function in your plasma software to determine how many lineal inches there are in your part program.....lets say there are 47 lineal inches....so multiply lineal inches cut x the selling price of the plate (from 1 above), 47 x .05 = $2.35

5. Ad your material cost (from 3 above) to your cutting cost (from 4 above), $3.00 + $2.35 = $5.35. That is what I would sell the part for.....plus shipping of course, and if you had to CAD draw the part.....you will also need to charge for that value added time as well.

I have been told that my prices are low.....yet I am happy with the hourly rate I can make in my shop....usually between $60 and $100.

If it is art....and it is a truly good piece....then use the above to calculate the minimum you could sell it for.....but mark it up to whatever the market will bear. I have sold many $3.00 pieces of steel for $60 to $100 if it truly is art.

Jim Colt "
 
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REKIII

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Wisconsin
Awesome post! Thanks! Where appx are you located? It would be nice to pick your brain a bit more, but if you are local, I don't want to be competition. I'm in SE Wisconsin.
 

kkroger

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Missouri, Kansas City Area. Gotta get back to welding!
 
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jeepinerdeep

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It should be a smooth process the people at arclight were great to work with. There were some shipping issues, but it was caused by the shipper, not arclight.

Any words of wisdom that I can do to avoid said shipping issues? As soon as my paperwork comes back from the state, I want to get my order in the cue. Shipping is the biggest heartburn for me. Seems like a ton of money down the drain.
 
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