Ardex under epoxy OK?

[DC_Gearhead]

I have a garage floor that I am preparing for epoxy when the weather breaks. The floor is smooth and flat, but there are a couple of trowel marks I would like to fill in to make it really nice and smooth. I don't think it is worth grinding the entire floor for some 1/16" deep divots. The concrete is 4 years old and has no paint or stains on it. I'm not worried at all about adhesion on the slab itself, but I am wanting to use an Ardex product to fill the trowel marks. Does anyone see a problem with that?

Logic says it wouldn't be a problem, but figured I would bounce it off you guys.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I don't think it is worth grinding the entire floor for some 1/16" deep divots. The concrete is 4 years old and has no paint or stains on it. I'm not worried at all about adhesion on the slab itself, but I am wanting to use an Ardex product to fill the trowel marks. Does anyone see a problem with that?

If you do not prep your floor for epoxy , it will fail. Ardex or no Ardex.

Are you using 100% solids epoxy?

 

[DC_Gearhead]

If you do not prep your floor for epoxy , it will fail. Ardex or no Ardex.

Are you using 100% solids epoxy?

Yes I am

 

[benwah]

Which Ardex product will you be using?, and what are you doing for surface prep?

 

[Garage Flooring]

So 1/16" is almost 63 mils. Assuming that number is accurate, primer, epoxy and urethane probably don't get you there. Tons of fillers you could use, I would be tempted to mix a small amount of epoxy and add some sand.

 

[DC_Gearhead]

Which Ardex product will you be using?, and what are you doing for surface prep?

TL-1000 probably.

 

[DC_Gearhead]

So 1/16" is almost 63 mils. Assuming that number is accurate, primer, epoxy and urethane probably don't get you there. Tons of fillers you could use, I would be tempted to mix a small amount of epoxy and add some sand.

That's a good thought. I'll get out there and check the floor a little more thoroughly.

 

[benwah]

I think this may be the wrong direction to go. Here is their data sheet http://www.ardexamericas.com/sp/Documents/TechData_En_TL1000.pdf. They recommend mechanical abrasion for surface prep AND ARDEX P51 Primer before laying down the TL1000.

TBH, you're most likely better off just grinding the entire floor and fixing any issues with 100% solids epoxy mixed with silica sand. It will ensure that your prep is solid leaving no "if, and's, or but's". It may seem like more work, and it is, but totally worth it in the long run.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I think this may be the wrong direction to go. Here is their data sheet http://www.ardexamericas.com/sp/Documents/TechData_En_TL1000.pdf. They recommend mechanical abrasion for surface prep AND ARDEX P51 Primer before laying down the TL1000.

TBH, you're most likely better off just grinding the entire floor and fixing any issues with 100% solids epoxy mixed with silica sand. It will ensure that your prep is solid leaving no "if, and's, or but's". It may seem like more work, and it is, but totally worth it in the long run.

 

[Shea]

I have a garage floor that I am preparing for epoxy when the weather breaks. The floor is smooth and flat, but there are a couple of trowel marks I would like to fill in to make it really nice and smooth. I don't think it is worth grinding the entire floor for some 1/16" deep divots. The concrete is 4 years old and has no paint or stains on it. I'm not worried at all about adhesion on the slab itself, but I am wanting to use an Ardex product to fill the trowel marks. Does anyone see a problem with that?

Logic says it wouldn't be a problem, but figured I would bounce it off you guys.

Just to clarify; Are you saying that the only floor prep you want to do is fill in the trowel marks? No etching or grinding of the concrete and you will be using 100% solids epoxy?

 

[DC_Gearhead]

Just to clarify; Are you saying that the only floor prep you want to do is fill in the trowel marks? No etching or grinding of the concrete and you will be using 100% solids epoxy?

Nope. Just asking if epoxy sticks to Ardex products.

 

[DC_Gearhead]

To me there is a difference between flat and smooth. I plan to grind the floor, but I want a super flat floor. I want to use some product to skim the low spots.

My floor is very smooth and flat, but I do see a couple of trowel marks I want to fix. Nobody would notice it...but I will.

I see people on here using Ardex to fill expansion joints so I assume it is ok.

 

[DC_Gearhead]

I think this may be the wrong direction to go. Here is their data sheet http://www.ardexamericas.com/sp/Documents/TechData_En_TL1000.pdf. They recommend mechanical abrasion for surface prep AND ARDEX P51 Primer before laying down the TL1000.

TBH, you're most likely better off just grinding the entire floor and fixing any issues with 100% solids epoxy mixed with silica sand. It will ensure that your prep is solid leaving no "if, and's, or but's". It may seem like more work, and it is, but totally worth it in the long run.

At this point I'm just starting to understand the epoxy process. That TL1000 popped into my head because I've used it for some slab skimming on a commercial project recently. Once I grind, I'm sure I will see something I want to level out. My garage is a 100 year old brick building with a 3 year old slab. It's pretty hard to pour a perfectly smooth/flat slab inside an existing building that small (13'x17'). I'm just trying to have a contingency plan.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

DC, you are right. Only the almighty can make a flat slab. Be sure the blend you are using is ok to be used as a skim coat in an area with auto traffic.

Keep in mind a moderate amount of flakes can trick your eye away from low spots/trowel marks etc...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DC_Gearhead]

DC, you are right. Only the almighty can make a flat slab. Be sure the blend you are using is ok to be used as a skim coat in an area with auto traffic.

Keep in mind a moderate amount of flakes can trick your eye away from low spots/trowel marks etc...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's kinda what I'm thinking with the flakes.

 

[Shea]

Nope. Just asking if epoxy sticks to Ardex products.

OK, that's good. I wasn't sure what your exact intentions were. Didn't want to see good money spent just to have your floor peel up.

Scotty and Benwah have you steered in the right direction.

 

[benwah]

Hey DC, if you were to grind you floor first, then repair with a cementitous epoxy mortar prior to coating you can save yourself a step by not having to grind your mortar patch. If that's no big deal to you then you should be good to go with Ardex if you choose.

Just keep in mind, even though you patch the area, it still must be properly prepared and cured. If you use epoxy mortar, you don't necessarily have to grind the surface because you now have chemical adhesion between the epoxy patch and your new epoxy coating if done within the recoat window. Although, a quick sanding never hurts to remove any high spots. Either way you choose to go, just follow manufacturer recommendations and you should be good to go! Any questions ask away

 

[DC_Gearhead]

Hey DC, if you were to grind you floor first, then repair with a cementitous epoxy mortar prior to coating you can save yourself a step by not having to grind your mortar patch. If that's no big deal to you then you should be good to go with Ardex if you choose.

Just keep in mind, even though you patch the area, it still must be properly prepared and cured. If you use epoxy mortar, you don't necessarily have to grind the surface because you now have chemical adhesion between the epoxy patch and your new epoxy coating if done within the recoat window. Although, a quick sanding never hurts to remove any high spots. Either way you choose to go, just follow manufacturer recommendations and you should be good to go! Any questions ask away

That is exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks.

 

[thegarageguy]

Pictures would go a long way here but if it's just 1/16" inch divots, TL-1000 is the wrong product. You want to use Ardex Feather Finish. Just lightly dampen with water and patch. If you are sloppy, you can sand it flush and neat, and you can even coat it within an hour.

Also, properly grinding the floor should rid you of your trowel licks and flatten your floor.

 

[DC_Gearhead]

Pictures would go a long way here but if it's just 1/16" inch divots, TL-1000 is the wrong product. You want to use Ardex Feather Finish. Just lightly dampen with water and patch. If you are sloppy, you can sand it flush and neat, and you can even coat it within an hour.

Also, properly grinding the floor should rid you of your trowel licks and flatten your floor.

I actually chickened out of the epoxy on the floor. I decided to go with Rust Bullet instead. I really appreciate the advice though. I've read a lot of your posts over the years. Always good advice.

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

Pictures would go a long way here but if it's just 1/16" inch divots, TL-1000 is the wrong product. You want to use Ardex Feather Finish. Just lightly dampen with water and patch. If you are sloppy, you can sand it flush and neat, and you can even coat it within an hour.

Also, properly grinding the floor should rid you of your trowel licks and flatten your floor.

How durable will the Ardex Feather Finish be on a shop floor under epoxy?

FYI - Also, I was looking for a retailer of Ardex products in my area and found that Henry brand products are sold by the same parent company as Ardex brands. I read on Home Depot's website in a question/answer section that, according to the manufacturer, Ardex Feather Finish is the same as Henry Feather Finish.

 

[Armorpoxy]

We don't like to recommend skim coats or toppers for garage floors. The big temperature swings coupled with the thinness of the topping and feathering at the edges leaving virtually no material at Eve's is almost a guarantee for failure.

Agree to use a sand fortified epoxy to try to level, or a self leveling urethane mortar system we carry (not inexpensive but virtually bulletproof).

 

[thegarageguy]

sorry for the delayed response. Thanks for the kind words DC_Gearhead

I would have to agree with ArmorPoxy. Ardex Feather Finish or Henry Feather finish would not be a great skim coat for a shopfloor under an epoxy. We just use it for light patching.

 

[DC_Gearhead]

We don't like to recommend skim coats or toppers for garage floors. The big temperature swings coupled with the thinness of the topping and feathering at the edges leaving virtually no material at Eve's is almost a guarantee for failure.



Agree to use a sand fortified epoxy to try to level, or a self leveling urethane mortar system we carry (not inexpensive but virtually bulletproof).

Thank you. That is exactly what I was wondering. Thanks. It would see extreme temp swings.