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Are these 2x4's needed for under the deck?

NewShockerGuy

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Entire deck just got re-surfaced with composite material. I just did the balusters. *This is a picture from about 2 weeks ago when **** was torn apart...


Please see two arrows, are those boards even needed on the underside of the deck?

Is there a better way to make it look better, or just leave it as is. I am looking at others around the back yard and some have these, while others don't...

I will note that the deck doesn't sway, or bounce, or make any unnecessary movement.

Thanks,
-Nigel
 

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boobag

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it depends on how you fastened the composite boards. take the 2x4 off and see if the deck moves side to side at all.
 

Stoshu

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Temporary bracing to keep the deck square. Carpenter was too lazy to remove them. As long as new decking is on, you can pull them off.
 
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NewShockerGuy

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Before the 2x4's were laid from left to right. Gaps everywhere, and it looked bad. New composite boards are laid at an angle. I will update with a picture momentarily.


Awesome, thank you guys!

I was going to hang string lights from them just because they were there but I might actually do something that is better looking now that I know they can be removed.

-Nigel
 

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CNGsaves

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Temporary bracing to keep the deck square. Carpenter was too lazy to remove them. As long as new decking is on, you can pull them off.

^ ^ ^ +1 as temporary.

Nice looking deck OP !! :thumbup:

What kind of decking "wood" is that ???
 

gasgas17

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You may want to double up on those balusters if you have any little ones running around. Max spacing is 4" in most codes. Decking looks good.
 
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NewShockerGuy

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^ ^ ^ +1 as temporary.

Nice looking deck OP !! :thumbup:

What kind of decking "wood" is that ???


Thank you! It's Evergrain Envision Spiced Teak. Looks really good. I wanted to do the posts and everything but it would have cost as much as building a new deck... our current wood was not taken care of by the previous owner AT all, and had he done any type of maintenance this probably would have lasted another 10 years... but.. oh well.. refresh! :)

You may want to double up on those balusters if you have any little ones running around. Max spacing is 4" in most codes. Decking looks good.


I've attached pictures below of what it looked like. I removed some balusters to test out what it would look like before I bought 168 of them...lol

Plus our garbage is weird.. they won't take anything outside of the trash can anymore, so I had to strategically take them off, cut them then put them in the bin... so it was about a 2 week affair of removing some and trashing them. I just didn't want to drive to the dump 20 miles away.

New balusters are also pictured below. Gives it a little more modern look.

Thanks,
-Nigel
 

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readhead

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The diagonal braces are a code requirement in some of the newer code years. I believe they may have started in the '09 code. There are all kinds of new code requirements for decks. Our town and county are about to adopt the '12 IRC which will increase the cost of our steel deck rails by forty percent.

You don't need them now with the new boards on a diagonal.
 
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1949 caddyman

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IMO with the deck boards on the diagonal you do not need the 2x4 under the deck. All those boards on the angle really added strength to the deck from racking.
 
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NewShockerGuy

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Thanks guys! Took the bottom board off. I just noticed that in the picture there are two boards and when I looked yesterday there was only one, so it looks like they already took one down...lol Looks cleaner now without it. To be 100% honest I'm not entirely sure what the cost per sq ft is only because we had other work done as a package via front walkway and porch, back patio, and the deck..etc. So it was a single price sort of deal. Only thing I'm not fond of is it can get hot if walking in bare feet... hotter than natural wood but now at least I won't have to stain it every couple years. Speaking of code, our deck never had lights on the steps and there is no landing. I actually prefer a no landing mid point like my neighbor does because it seems to take up more space in a way, but I can see a need for it incase someone falls down, they aren't falling down 20' like on our stairs. I am installing recessed lighting in the next week or two, so I'll have to post pictures once that's done. They are pretty neat, comes with a remote to turn them on/off and adjust the brightness to preset levels or adjust +/- from there.


:)

-Nigel
 

drivesitfar

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NSG: where did you buy the metal decking rails? I also like how your deck ended up looking now. i need to resurface my 23 year old deck i built and that fake teak wood you used looks great.

i also agree the bottom support 2 x 4's could go and sounds like they already did. :thumbup:
 
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NewShockerGuy

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I got the balusters from Home Depot. I was checking decksdirect.com and Lowes. The balusters in a 5 pack at the stores are about $30, so you are a little over $6 with tax and gas/hauling...etc. I just happened to look on HD's website and they were running a sale on the 14 pack. I believe it was $80 per pack before their sale price. I ended up saving a couple hundreds bucks on the website and got free shipping. They screwed up on my order and ended up refunding me 3 sets so that was another 200 off. So I made out nicely.

ONLY complaint is to look over EACH baluster... naturally some will be bent a little bit more/less than another, or one might be really out of whack. I'd say order at least a box or two more so you have "spares". Just like when I did our wood flooring, I ordered 4 boxes extra of wood just so I could go through the wood and pick up and discard the bad pieces. Those bad pieces were then returned in a box. I'm doing the same thing with the rails. Some were chipped or just not usable as far as one was almost an inch taller than the rest.

Actually 2nd complaint, is the f'ing plastic washers you need to use if you are screwing it into PT wood. I luckily found a review and the person said super glue the washers on the balusters because if not you are going to go through hell trying to fit the washer in between the wood, then trying to screw it on. That takes time. Bank on an hour at least, to super gluing 4 washers per baluster if you have 100+ to go through.


They have two basic designs, one is a curved bow, and then the one I got which has a double curve to it. I like both honestly, and only picked this one because it was on sale, had the others been on sale I probably would have gotten those. I choose bronze for the color as black was too much of a dark/ mix matched contrast. The biggest thing I like is when you are on the deck it appears more "airy" if that makes sense. I didn't realize how much the wood slats blocked until you look to the side of the deck and can see all the way through, where as before you just saw wood.

I replaced the lower rail braces since they were all warped and I SHOULD have done the top rail braces as well, but since the guys already screwed the boards on the brace support I wasn't going to un do it. The screws they used when you unscrew it from the composite board it takes a chunk of it out with it, so because of that and the new boards, and just the fact that the deck is 10 years old there is natural "not plum/levelness" to things, so unless someone is REALLY looking, one wouldn't notice that the balusters are not perfectly even on the top/bottom. I did try and line the "curve" up to each baluster so when looking at them the curves don't dip or rise up/down, but if looking at the very top or very bottom of the baluster one would notice about a 1/2" up or down compared to where it's screwed into the board brace.

I have the stairs to do tomorrow and Friday so that will be fun, but overall this was a positive experience and at least updated the look somewhat. I noticed that the stiffness also improved greatly. The old balusters were simply nailed in at the top and bottom, half the boards were cracked or coming loose. These new balusters are attached using 4 screws per slat. Once I finished the entire section nothing moved, not even the braces, where as before they did.

-Nigel
 
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