Are these the correct GFCI breakers for Eaton Type BR

[penright]

All my outlets are GFI protected with GFCI outlets. I did not GFI my overhead lights. Now I looking to power a reel-type drop light and was looking for a GFI breaker.


This one from HD is what I was expecting from a GFI. It is 49$
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR-20-Amp-Single-Pole-Self-Test-Ground-Fault-Circuit-Breaker-GFTCB120CS/206109781

This one looks like it should work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRN120AF-/313279876159

Does the EBay one protect GFCI. I know it says arc, but it also says "combo". What does it mean by that?

 

[WP9]

Can't say if the Ebay item is a combination GFCI/AFCI . THe labeling doesn't indicate anything other than"Combination".

Here is a link to the HD combination unit.


www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR-20-Amp-All-in-One-AF-GF-Breaker-BRN120A1CS/311720450

 

[TRWham]

A Combination AFCI is NOT a dual function AFCI/GFCI, it's just the newer, smarter version of an AFCI.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

That is NOT a GFCI. Its a combo AFCI- which detects parallel and series arcs.

Return it...

 

[Terry D]

The one you have linked from Home Depot is correct. The one from EBAY is a combination arc fault. They are two different breakers

 

[penright]

The one you have linked from Home Depot is correct. The one from EBAY is a combination arc fault. They are two different breakers

I thought something did not smell right.

That is NOT a GFCI. Its a combo AFCI- which detects parallel and series arcs.
Return it...

I had not bought it yet.

Can't say if the Ebay item is a combination GFCI/AFCI . THe labeling doesn't indicate anything other than"Combination".
Here is a link to the HD combination unit.

www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR-20-Amp-All-in-One-AF-GF-Breaker-BRN120A1CS/311720450

I think that's the one I am going with. Any last thoughts before I buy it?

I was not going for arc protection, but it only a buck more. The main thing is the GFCI, I have seen them (GFCI) work. I know there is a lot of discussion around them, but for me, I am a believer.

On one hand the drop light it's self has a plastic handle, but it does have an outlet and someday something could be plugged into it, or maybe something drops and cuts a wire.

Thanks, everyone.

 

[ducatithunder]

Make sure you get the correct one. IF you have PON then that is not the correct style.

 

[penright]

Make sure you get the correct one. IF you have PON then that is not the correct style.

What does PON stand for?
I know what it is in networking context, not electrical.

 

[ducatithunder]

Plug on Neutral. What you have is a AFCI breaker with a pigtail. PON panels do away with this. There is a neutral bar that that runs up and down on both sides where the PON breaker attaches. The breakers are not compatible vise versa.

 

[beelsr]

plug on neutral. the neutral bar runs down the panel and you, umm, push the breakers onto the neutral screws that are still there, rather than wiring them with pigtails. makes a cleaner box with all the *-fault type breakers.

 

[penright]

Thanks, @beelsr, and @ducatithunder.
In my world, PON is Passive Optical Network.
here is an inside picture.
I do not see where the natural is connected to anything in the center.
Also, the price I paid, I doubt that it would have that feature.


I don't think it is, am I correct?

 

[ducatithunder]

Thats not a PON box. Buy a pigtail AFCI or GFCI breaker. Pigtail will get terminated on neutral bar to the side.

 

[exranger06]

I'm assuming this is a subpanel that's fed from another panel or disconnect? If so, you need to remove those bonding jumpers from the neutral bar; that's a code violation.

 

[penright]

I'm assuming this is a subpanel that's fed from another panel or disconnect? If so, you need to remove those bonding jumpers from the neutral bar; that's a code violation.

Yes, that is a subpanel.

That has been something I was going to ask. I have seen a lot of discussion on the forum and even watch some youtube videos where the issue was demonstrated.

I thought that was wrong.
Believe it or not, that was done by an electrician and inspected.

I will fix it when I open the panel up to swap out the breaker.
I just need to remove the strip (red part) between the natural and ground correct?

Good catch.

 

[ducatithunder]

You actually need to buy a grounding bar and install it. Dont touch that large jumper that is highlighted in red. Both bars are isolated from the panel on plastic blocks. The bonding strap is what set it as a grounding bar. See my next remarks below.

The bonding ******** the left side (4 screws down ... the one that is secured to the panel. I circled it in yellow in attachment) needs to be removed. This gets missed alot. IF its a main panel you leave it. IF its a sub panel then you remove it and it isolates the neutral from ground. Then you add your grounding bar you need to buy separately. It will mount next to it with the screws holes tapped in the panel. There is one that is made for you panel. Its listed in the instructions. Should be stocked in HD or Lowes. Thats how you ground the sub panel.

 

[penright]

The bonding ******** the left side (4 screws down ... the one that is secured to the panel. I circled it in yellow in attachment) needs to be removed.

Got it.

You actually need to buy a grounding bar and install it.

I assume that the bar on the right that has grounds attached, is not what you are talking about, correct?

You actually need to buy a grounding bar and install it. Don't touch that large jumper that is highlighted in red.

So is this bar what the ground rod that was driven connects to?

Does not that strap connect the ground to the neutral? And the Grounds are tied to the boxes. Shouldn't both the ground and neutral only be tied at the main?

It may take me a few days, but I will take a better picture. That photo just happens to have from when the panel was first installed.

 

[ducatithunder]

Got it.



I assume that the bar on the right that has grounds attached, is not what you are talking about, correct?

If it was a main panel then you can combine the neutrals and grounds. This is a sub so they need to be isolated .. hence the reason you ran 4 wires.



So is this bar what the ground rod that was driven connects to?

Does not that strap connect the ground to the neutral? And the Grounds are tied to the boxes. Shouldn't both the ground and neutral only be tied at the main?

You will end up with 2 large neutral bars. One on each side. This allows you not to have to run all your white wires to one side. On older panels there would be one large bare like you have. All those GFCI and AFCI pig tails would have to make it to the other side. This lead to a mess of wires and if they were not long enough, then wirenuts and extensions to make it. There are holes in the back of the panel. Look up the model of the panel or in the instructions you got when the panel was taken out of the packaging. IT will list how to set this panel up.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-2...V1tzICh2xmgfsEAQYASABEgKe5vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is most likely what you need to buy given its a Eaton BR panel. It will attached to the back of your panel. You will see 2 small raised dimples on the back of the panel pan and 2 holes above and below them. This is where it will mount. Its all in the instructions. All your ground attached to the large bar on the right will be moved to this. Only white wires will be attached to the 2 large bars on each side of your panel.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yes, that is a subpanel.

That has been something I was going to ask. I have seen a lot of discussion on the forum and even watch some youtube videos where the issue was demonstrated.

I thought that was wrong.
Believe it or not, that was done by an electrician and inspected.

I will fix it when I open the panel up to swap out the breaker.
I just need to remove the strip (red part) between the natural and ground correct?

Good catch.

If this was done by an electrician and inspected, they both failed you and they are both behind on code.

exranger steered you in the right direction

both existing bars are neutrals and you are to leave the tie bar and remove the silver bonding lug

then add 2 ground bars, one each side, and move ground wires and the GEC from the rods over to them.

but the electrician should be doing this, not you

if you need a visual to show someone, use the diagram in post #3 here:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356460

 

[penright]

I think I am on the same page. @wyliesdiesels, that is what I was expecting. When @ducatithunde described moving the grounds, the light bulb went off.

Let me state what I am hearing in a different way to see if I am getting the principles right. I see now that you guys are showing what is needed to have an organized panel. The goal is not to have the ground and the neutral tied together at the subpanel. Gound is still tied to the panel. So if I removed the strip (red) that ties them together, then move the grounds to the side with the lug and the neutrals to the other side, is this the desired effect electrically?

If I am reading the doc right, it says the grounding lug can be moved to either side. But then it does not mention the strip and it does mention adding grounding bars.
https://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@electrical/documents/content/vol01_tab01.pdf

Here is a more recent photo.

I guessing looking at the bars and the hole spacing, the red is where they would go, correct?
The bolts do not look like self-tapping and the holes do not look threaded. Will the bolts cut some threads?
I assume the strip between the two bars, which will be the isolated neutral bars, is big enough for the current?

 

[exranger06]

I don't think you need to buy a ground bar. You just need to remove the bonding strap near the bottom, and relocate the other bonding strap (circled in yellow below) to the other side, where your grounds are. The bar on the left will be your neutral bar and the one on the right will be the ground bar. That's how I installed my panel. I don't know how easy it will be to remove the bottom strap though. My panel has a similar strap and it's spot-welded to the panel. I left mine in place, since it only connects to one bar, which is my ground bar.

 

[penright]

I don't think you need to buy a ground bar. You just need to remove the bonding strap near the bottom, and relocate the other bonding strap (circled in yellow below) to the other side, where your grounds are. The bar on the left will be your neutral bar and the one on the right will be the ground bar. That's how I installed my panel. I don't know how easy it will be to remove the bottom strap though. My panel has a similar strap and it's spot-welded to the panel. I left mine in place, since it only connects to one bar, which is my ground bar.

That is what I was thinking. Looking at it, there is a spot for the boding strap (circled in yellow) on the other side. I would not have to move anything at that point.

I think what @wyliesdiesels and @ducatithunde are suggesting will tidy up the panel more. The original thing on the thread is adding a GFI breaker. They were making it easier to connect the pigtail without having to add extra wire. I am sure that is the best practice. For me, I may only have one breaker. All my outlets are protected by GFIC outlets. So I can make sure it is on the neutral bar side.

On the other hand, for $30 I can do it and not get yelled at next time I post a picture

 

[Terry D]

You can do it either way, The easiest would be to just remove the bonding strap as already said. The left would be the neutral and the right the equipment ground. You wouldn't even have to move any wires since they are already separated. Just make sure you install your GFCI breaker on the left side. To me, it almost looks like the electrician was planning on doing this, and forgot to remove the strap. I don't use BR panels, don't know if the strap comes attached or not. The bad thing is if you would run out of space for your neutral connections since the neutral would be the smaller of the two bars. You can put 2 or 3 grounds under one screw, but neutrals can have just one. That information is inside the door on the label. If you did decide on adding ground bars to each side, just make sure to get BR ones and the holes should all line up without drilling.

Edit - now that I look at it again, you have to remove the insulated strap bonding the two bars together. I believe that strap is all one piece. Then move the small bonding strap to the right side. Would be easier to just remove the strap bonding it to the can and install ground bars. Sorry for making this confusing. The BR panels that I have installed in the past had a long strap connecting the two bars that was not insulated from the can. It had a ******** the neutral side that you would bend around and attach it to the neutral bar if you was using it as a main panel.

 

[exranger06]

You can do it either way, The easiest would be to just remove the bonding strap as already said. The left would be the neutral and the right the equipment ground. You wouldn't even have to move any wires since they are already separated. Just make sure you install your GFCI breaker on the left side. To me, it almost looks like the electrician was planning on doing this, and forgot to remove the strap. I don't use BR panels, don't know if the strap comes attached or not. The bad thing is if you would run out of space for your neutral connections since the neutral would be the smaller of the two bars. You can put 2 or 3 grounds under one screw, but neutrals can have just one. That information is inside the door on the label. If you did decide on adding ground bars to each side, just make sure to get BR ones and the holes should all line up without drilling.

Edit - now that I look at that panel again, I don't believe you just cant just remove that strap. Your equipment ground bar will not be bonded to the enclosure.

The ground bar will be bonded if he moves the OTHER strap (the one I circled in yellow in my last post) to the ground bar.

 

[n8n]

It appears, if you want both AF and GF capability, that they do make a combination breaker for that purpose. It's part BRAFGF120 for a single pole, 20A version.

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...-arc-fault-circuit-interrupter-td003001en.pdf

It used to be that an ACFI breaker would trip on a ground fault as well, but at a higher threshold than that of an actual personnel protection GFCI, so it couldn't be listed/labeled as a GFCI. Now this was ages ago when I was rewiring bedrooms in my old house, when bedrooms were the only rooms requiring AFCIs, so very early after their introduction. I had no problems with the Siemens AFCI breaker that I used (old ITE panel) at that time.

I guess the question is, is an AFCI required for this use? My NEC is 2011 edition, don't know if they changed the wording for 2014, it would appear that it is not required (210.12) However "it can't hurt" unless you get nuisance trips. Whether or not you would, I can't say.

 

[Terry D]

The ground bar will be bonded if he moves the OTHER strap (the one I circled in yellow in my last post) to the ground bar.

I'm not familiar with BR panels. It almost looks like he would have to fully remove the insulated strap bonding the two bars together. To do this, he would have to loosen the interior and pull it out to accomplish this. then move the small bonding strap over the the right bar. If that is the case, removing the ******** the left and installing ground bars might be easier for him. The way I see it, those bars are tied together and isolated from the can, by installing the bonding ******** the left it bonds it to the can, making it usable for a main panel. To use it for a sub panel, remove the ******** left and install ground bars directly to the can.

 

[penright]

It appears, if you want both AF and GF capability, that they do make a combination breaker for that purpose. It's part BRAFGF120 for a single pole, 20A version.

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...-arc-fault-circuit-interrupter-td003001en.pdf

It used to be that an ACFI breaker would trip on a ground fault as well, but at a higher threshold than that of an actual personnel protection GFCI, so it couldn't be listed/labeled as a GFCI. Now this was ages ago when I was rewiring bedrooms in my old house, when bedrooms were the only rooms requiring AFCIs, so very early after their introduction. I had no problems with the Siemens AFCI breaker that I used (old ITE panel) at that time.

I guess the question is, is an AFCI required for this use? My NEC is 2011 edition, don't know if they changed the wording for 2014, it would appear that it is not required (210.12) However "it can't hurt" unless you get nuisance trips. Whether or not you would, I can't say.

An arc fault is not required, just that it was 1$ more. I will have 9 lights plus a drop light off that breaker and switch. I do make sure all my wire nuts are tight and pull on the wires to double-check, but as you said "it can't hurt".

The GFIC is the main thing. I was not worried when it was all just celling lights, but adding the drop light, that is something someone is going to be handling.

 

[penright]

@Terry_D not wanting to put words into @wyliesdiesels and @ducatithunde, I bet that is what they were thinking. I going to add the ground bar on the right side to make moving the grounds easier. Then leave both neutrals isolated after removing the "yellow circular" bonding strap. The service was done by an electrician and inspected. I ran the circuits. I was trying to keep the neutrals and grounds separated figuring that panel was installed wrong. That is why it looks like the intention was to remove and it was forgotten.

Just online order the ground bar, breaker, box, outlet, and faceplate.

Looks like the bar will be on the slow boat wherever HD boats come from.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-21-Terminal-Ground-Bar-for-Type-CH-and-Type-BR-Panels-GBK2120/302610360

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR-20-Amp-All-in-One-AF-GF-Breaker-BRN120A1CS/311720450

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-4-in-Welded-Square-Electrical-Box-with-Raised-Ground-8189/100539828

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-4-in-Square-Exposed-Work-Cover-for-Duplex-Receptacle-902C/100038014

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Residential-Grade-Grounding-Duplex-Outlet-White-R52-05320-00W/202066670

 

[Terry D]

@Terry_D not wanting to put words into @wyliesdiesels and @ducatithunde, I bet that is what they were thinking. I going to add the ground bar on the right side to make moving the grounds easier. Then leave both neutrals isolated after removing the "yellow circular" bonding strap. The service was done by an electrician and inspected. I ran the circuits. I was trying to keep the neutrals and grounds separated figuring that panel was installed wrong. That is why it looks like the intention was to remove and it was forgotten.

Just online order the ground bar, breaker, box, outlet, and faceplate.

Looks like the bar will be on the slow boat wherever HD boats come from.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-21-Terminal-Ground-Bar-for-Type-CH-and-Type-BR-Panels-GBK2120/302610360

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR-20-Amp-All-in-One-AF-GF-Breaker-BRN120A1CS/311720450

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-4-in-Welded-Square-Electrical-Box-with-Raised-Ground-8189/100539828

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-4-in-Square-Exposed-Work-Cover-for-Duplex-Receptacle-902C/100038014

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Residential-Grade-Grounding-Duplex-Outlet-White-R52-05320-00W/202066670

Yeah, sorry for the confusion, I totally looked at that wrong. I mainly install Siemens panels, they are set up different. Remove the bonding jumper on the left, install a ground bar on the right or both sides and call it a day

 

[n8n]

If you haven't actually hit the button yet, may I suggest this receptacle instead?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...e-Duplex-Outlet-White-R62-CBR15-00W/202066707

I've lived in a lot of places where I've had 15-20 year old "residential grade" receptacles start to go loose and not hold a plug securely (the exact kind of thing that prompted the requirement for AFCIs) I always use the spec grade ones for replacements. The washers under the screw heads mean you don't have to curl the wires either, saves time when you're installing, and you can put two wires under a screw to maybe save a wire nut.

 

[exranger06]

I'm not familiar with BR panels. It almost looks like he would have to fully remove the insulated strap bonding the two bars together. To do this, he would have to loosen the interior and pull it out to accomplish this. then move the small bonding strap over the the right bar. If that is the case, removing the ******** the left and installing ground bars might be easier for him. The way I see it, those bars are tied together and isolated from the can, by installing the bonding ******** the left it bonds it to the can, making it usable for a main panel. To use it for a sub panel, remove the ******** left and install ground bars directly to the can.

Is that strap insulated though? I was under the impression it was not, and that it was bonding both bars to the enclosure. In which case, it would need to be removed regardless, so that one (or both) of the existing bars can be used as a neutral bar. Which is what I was suggesting in my previous posts.

If it IS insulated, then I agree that the easiest thing to do is leave it in place, remove the other bonding strap, use both existing bars as neutral bars and install some ground bars.

 

[penright]

The washers under the screw heads mean you don't have to curl the wires either, saves time when you're installing, and you can put two wires under a screw to maybe save a wire nut.

I did pull the trigger, but I can swap it out when I go to pick it up.

Never notice the difference before. There is a difference in construction.
I would be surprised if the code would allow you to use the same screw for more than one wire. Are you sure that is ok?

 

[pattenp]

I don't think you need to buy a ground bar. You just need to remove the bonding strap near the bottom, and relocate the other bonding strap (circled in yellow below) to the other side, where your grounds are. The bar on the left will be your neutral bar and the one on the right will be the ground bar. That's how I installed my panel. I don't know how easy it will be to remove the bottom strap though. My panel has a similar strap and it's spot-welded to the panel. I left mine in place, since it only connects to one bar, which is my ground bar.

Under the manufacturer instructions the bonding jumper "circled yellow" is removed and a ground bar kit is installed. It is not the intent or suggestion of the manufacturer to modify the panel by removing the connection strap between the neutral bars. The manufacturer approved way is to add the ground bar kit.

 

[n8n]

I did pull the trigger, but I can swap it out when I go to pick it up.

Never notice the difference before. There is a difference in construction.
I would be surprised if the code would allow you to use the same screw for more than one wire. Are you sure that is ok?

I would assume so, although honestly I have not ever looked it up code wise. The side screws on those receptacles have a square captive washer under them; you're supposed to just shove the wire under the washer on one side of the screw head and tighten it down (no bending/curling.) These same kinds of terminals are used on fire alarm devices and on those two wires under a screw head is not only allowed but necessary as there is only one terminal each for + and -. See page 3 here

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...ock-rss-strobe-wall-install-sheets-P83911.pdf

I like this better because if you then are installing the recep without wire nuts in the middle of a circuit, you can put both blacks and both whites under the same respective screws, and then the pass through current is going through only that washer and its corresponding brass piece that it's clamping down on, and not through the breakaway tab.

Another argument that this is intended for two wires under a screw is that with some of them - maybe even the ones sold at HD? - the square washers under the screw head are actually formed a little bit to hold the wire, and they are so formed on both sides of the screw head.

I was hoping that the installation instructions for the receptacle would clarify this, as the installation instructions have to be reviewed by UL as part of the listing, but they are pretty generic, at least for the Leviton ones I looked up (I was trying to show you something specific to the things you could buy at HD as that seems to be where you're shopping). I tried looking up Hubbell who has much better install sheets, but the ones I looked up those devices don't have the washers like I'm talking about, so you absolutely cannot do 2 wires under a screw there.

edit: Have a look at this Eaton receptacle here

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-White-15-Amp-Duplex-Outlet-Commercial-10-Pack-Outlet/1001438142

this is a slightly different design where the screw draws a square clamp against the brass contact area. But as you can see there are eight holes in the back of the body, allowing for two stripped wires per screw head.

 

[ducatithunder]

Is that strap insulated though? I was under the impression it was not, and that it was bonding both bars to the enclosure. In which case, it would need to be removed regardless, so that one (or both) of the existing bars can be used as a neutral bar. Which is what I was suggesting in my previous posts.

If it IS insulated, then I agree that the easiest thing to do is leave it in place, remove the other bonding strap, use both existing bars as neutral bars and install some ground bars.

This is what I was explaining. That neutral strap is insulated ... The black rubber covering. The grounding strap I circled in yellow is what needs to be removed and a additional grounding bar installed. This is how the panel is designed to be used. Its states it right in the manual for the panel.

You could removed the neutral strap and separate the neutral bars but this is not recommended. Its not how the panel was designed to be used. Just buy the $10 ground bar and install as per Eaton's instructions. It opens up liabilities that wont be covered when Joe Homeowner makes a uneducated modification of the panel. UL ratings are gone and any liability on Eaton if something happens.

With the questions that are being provided I would urge you to have the electrician come back and redo the work. This is not hard stuff, but needs to be done correctly. Explain to him what is wrong and have him correct it according.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I don't think you need to buy a ground bar. You just need to remove the bonding strap near the bottom, and relocate the other bonding strap (circled in yellow below) to the other side, where your grounds are. The bar on the left will be your neutral bar and the one on the right will be the ground bar. That's how I installed my panel. I don't know how easy it will be to remove the bottom strap though. My panel has a similar strap and it's spot-welded to the panel. I left mine in place, since it only connects to one bar, which is my ground bar.

the bar at the bottom with the black rubber is NOT a bonding strap. it is a tie strap to tie the 2 neutral bars together.

the bonding strap or lug is the one you circled in yellow.

the manufacturer wants you to add one or more ground bars and remove the bonding strap. leave the tie bar.

what you did in your panel was most likely incorrect but i would need to read the info from the manufacturer.

 

[exranger06]

what you did in your panel was most likely incorrect but i would need to read the info from the manufacturer.

Below are pics of my panel. My strap is most definitely NOT insulated, and like I said, spot-welded to the enclosure. It connects to the bar on the left. (I circled both ends of the strap in yellow, so it's easier to find) Since there is basically no way of unbonding that bar, I made it my ground bar. I included a pic of the other end of the ******** the right-hand side. The neutral bar on the right had a little removable bonding strap that connected to the screw on the end of the permanent strap, which I removed, thus making the right bar totally unbonded, so I made that the neutral bar. I don't see how any of that is incorrect.

 

[Terry D]

Below are pics of my panel. My strap is most definitely NOT insulated, and like I said, spot-welded to the enclosure. It connects to the bar on the left. (I circled both ends of the strap in yellow, so it's easier to find) Since there is basically no way of unbonding that bar, I made it my ground bar. I included a pic of the other end of the ******** the right-hand side. The neutral bar on the right had a little removable bonding strap that connected to the screw on the end of the permanent strap, which I removed, thus making the right bar totally unbonded, so I made that the neutral bar. I don't see how any of that is incorrect.

This is a totally different panel than the OP's. What you have is a CH not a BR. Yours is designed to do it that way. Remove the green screw, loosen and remove the bonding jumper from the neutral buss and reinstall the green screw. Now you have isolated the neutral from the can.

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[exranger06]

This is a totally different panel than the OP's. What you have is a CH not a BR

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

I know. I never said I have the same panel as the OP. I just (incorrectly) thought his bonding strap was uninsulated like mine. I've never seen an insulated one like that before. Learned something new today.

 

[Terry D]

I know. I never said I have the same panel as the OP. I just (incorrectly) thought his bonding strap was uninsulated like mine. I've never seen an insulated one like that before. Learned something new today.

I thought so to when i first looked at it. Maybe they changed the design when Eaton took over. Last time I installed a BR they were still Cutler Hammer

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[penright]

I fixed the sub-panel neutral to ground bond this weekend. It took some time for the ground bar to come in. Then last weekend I was out of town on business.