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Arm Breaker Drills

Walkers

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Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,912
Location
Cave Creek Az
This old Stanley gear reduction drill was in my dad's shop when I was growing up, just sitting there almost never used. Then one day I was up at my grandfather's shop and found the press, and he said that it went with the drill in dads shop, so take it. Years later I needed it for a very big hole, and now here it sits in my shop.

I have much better tools for big holes now. I am not a sentimental guy by any standard, but I have chucked this drill in 20 years. I am cleaning shop at the moment. Should I scrap it, or let it sit there for another decade?

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neophyte

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Apr 23, 2012
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9,996
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Pennsylvannia
I would say keep it, or find dome way to pass it on to someone else.
The drill press adapters aren’t common nowadays, but are sometimes necessary.
It’s easier to move one of those around ghsn it is to move a drill press.
Those adapters are usually looked at as being for people who couldn’t afford a drill press, but in reality, they were actually used in production by major manufacturers in some cases.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,583
Location
SE MI
I have a circa 1980s Craftsman Industrial triple gear reduction 1/2" drill. More than once I swear I broke my wrist when it got stuck and I was not using the optional side handle.

IIRC, the model number decodes as made by Skil but it looks identical to a DeWalt DW245 except for color. 600 RPM max, so skip any small bits !
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,583
Location
SE MI
I have a circa 1980s Craftsman Industrial triple gear reduction 1/2" drill. More than once I swear I broke my wrist when it got stuck and I was not using the optional side handle. I bent a 1/2" bit when it got stuck.

IIRC, the model number decodes as made by Skil but it looks identical to a DeWalt DW245 except for color. 600 RPM max, so skip any small bits !
 

rustyjames

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Dec 28, 2008
Messages
1,077
Location
central nj
I have an old B&D triple reduction with all aluminum housing that I put away a long time ago because every time it was used was an anxiety creating experience.
 

Jason280

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Mar 4, 2012
Messages
3,174
I'd guarantee that an old Milwaukee Hole Hawg has sent more than a few people to the ER with arm/hand/wrist fractures. Those things would flat throw you off the top of a ladder even if you were expecting it, especially running 2.5-3" wood bits...I learned quickly to respect one of those drills, even with smaller bits, and we always ran it with the extra handle/brace.
 

PoorUB

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Mar 29, 2021
Messages
11,937
Location
Fargo, ND
Those Milwaukee right angle drills were something else! We were installing a furnace in a home. We had to run the 3" PVC venting up through the house. We had to bore 3-1/2" holes through 100 year old maple flooring. We used a self feeding bit that would not self feed so my work partner ran that drill and i stood on the gear box. We had it blocked up against a new pine 2x4 stud and the drill jammed and broke the 2x4.
 

Chilliwack Murray

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Dec 10, 2012
Messages
1,509
Location
Chilliwack BC
Yeah, my older 1990ish Milwaukee will leave you hurting if you're not careful but at least it's variable speed. My dad had a polished steel case half inch drill that must've been at least double reduction and the only speed it had was annihilate... It took 4 or 5 seconds to spin down. Don't think I ever saw the brand but it dimmed the lights a little when you hit the trigger.
 

Dumber than lumber

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Dec 19, 2015
Messages
2,033
I was already inclined to say that the OP’s question is a tough one. As i read the subsequent posts i got to feeling queasy. Broken arms! Thrown off a ladder! Emergency room!!
Who knew drilling a few holes could be so dangerous?
 

RTM

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May 13, 2019
Messages
13,453
Location
SF Bay Area
Back in the 80s, a buddy saw an electrician apprentice get lifted off the ground, and ribs broken, by a Hole Hawg, when a bit hit a knot. Those older ones are even more terrifying.
 

iagsxr

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Jan 10, 2010
Messages
1,508
Location
Vinton, Iowa
Wish I had a picture of the one my old man rigged with a toggle switch after it got away from him and broke the handle off. Yeah, we used it for years that way.
 
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Ton ton

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Oct 16, 2019
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4,592
Location
Page County,VA
They must have made them drills heavy duty back in the day. The motors seem to burn up on the Milwaukee corded drills that I run.
 

carmantl

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Dec 19, 2015
Messages
237
Hole hawgs have broken my hand or fingers several times, and I like to think that I know what I'm doing. I've been a pro carpenter/ironworker for going on 30 years. Homebuilt is correct; get a core off center and it can jump out of its base. Sometimes the results are catastrophic/
 

Sportsman762

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Aug 24, 2018
Messages
123
Location
OH
I have had to stop projects before due to the Milwaukee Magnum twisting my wrist up. My fathers apprentice was off for some time due to breaking his wrist from a drill. They are dangerous, but is the drill I always reach for when drilling in metal.
 

toolmiser

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Sep 1, 2009
Messages
1,659
Location
La Crosse, WI
Some of those "old drill stands" could be reversed if you needed to drill overhead-such as a beam-you would have to rig up the support. I worked at a place where we had a "pool of tools". A guy needed to drill a hole with a hole saw, nothing available except a "d" handle. It caught and luckily broke the housing instead of his arm. Supervisor got upset with him breaking it until he pointed out that the supervisor had taken other drill home to use.
 

joshmodelskidoo

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Joined
Apr 18, 2012
Messages
872
Location
mid western michigan
My dad had an old stanley and i lent it out and it never returned. I ended up finding another old drill similar to it. I wouldn’t sell it because I paid $10 for it and i think i only used it on 1 project and if I need it again I can’t replace it for $10 and if I could it would probably take months to find one
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,928
Location
oregon
I have one of those on a stand and have used it a few times as a 'mag base drill'. Clamp or screw it to a beam or timber and drill away.

lg
no neat sig line
 

mv213

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Sep 29, 2014
Messages
665
Location
Dallas, OR (the OTHER "Big D")
In my young days I was drilling a series of 2” holes in the side of a building for insulation retrofit. Using an old Dayton drill with a huge motor. It knocked me on my *** many times when the bit jammed. No matter how I held it I wasn’t big/strong enough to hold it when it jammed. I expected to end up something broken but somehow never did.
 

Mark in Indiana

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Joined
Aug 11, 2010
Messages
3,057
Location
Southern Indiana
I had a coworker who injured his wrist while using a concrete hammer drill. The drill bit caught a piece of rebar and spun the drill around. I've always been wary of that.
 

Packard V8

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Mar 16, 2009
Messages
7,380
Location
Spokane, WA
In the summer of 1965, a job as a helper at Nashville Bridge convinced me to stay in school. It was often more than 100-degrees in the shop, wrestling steel bridge components; It paid minimum wage, $1.65 an hour and every shift was hard, dirty and dangerous.

One of the less-stressful, less dangerous operations was manning a two-person reamer used to finish-align the bolt holes in the flanges which joined bridge sections. The guy holding the handle with the trigger had to get eye contact and a nod from the one holding the handle on the other side before switching on. If either let go, the partner would be flung off the girder onto the pile of steel below.

jack vines
 

Milton Shaw

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Feb 11, 2011
Messages
4,868
I have one of the Sears triple reduction 7/8 horsepower drill. Boy is it strong. Don't ever use any bits that have flats on their shanks as it will hang up and break something on you. I have a bit extension that I cut the flats off the drill end so it has a round shank to slip when it finally hangs up. I don't use hole saws in it unless i use that extension with no flats. The little side handle broke the first time it hung up thirty years ago.
 

dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
Messages
6,480
Location
Dorset. England.
On the stand they are useful if you are doing traditional timber frame construction and need to drill holes that square and true.
Swing the drill so its not over the base, clamp the base on the beam and drill away.
 
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