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Armorclad thoughts...

sammer

Active member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
40
Location
Fernie, B.C.
Just got in the house from rolling out the military grade topcoat and thought I'd share the experience.

I took advantage of free primer for beige armorclad. Wasn't sure I wanted beige but couldn't resist the bargain. I wanted something light to help keep it brighter.

Called and ordered up a beige master kit, the free primer and the topcoat upgrade. Had it shipped to Eureka Montana to save a few bucks.
Eureka is about an hour south of here.

Kit arrived a couple weeks ago. I knew I needed some time to install it so thought I'd put in some labour on the labour day weekend.

Took a day to get everything out of the shop. Tool boxes out the man door, and the Grind-rite out the big door into the alley. All got tarped over until this is done and I can get a couple buddies to help move them back in.

Floor was a few years old and power troweled, had a couple minor cracks and a few dips and pin holes.
I swept and washed it out, didn't have any oil spills but gave it a really good scrub and rinse.

Started prep with some safe etch product I'd bought at the local hardware store. I knew the floor was pretty shiny so thought the etch in the kit wasn't going to be enough.
Safe etch foamed a bit but didn't even leave a mark. I used 3 gallons of the stuff! So thinking the stuff in the kit might be better I put that down. It made a bit of a mark but still not really what I would call etched. Floor was still pretty shiny.
So off to the hardware store again for some muriatic acid. Brought home a gallon and a cheap plastic watering can and mixed up 3 to 1 with hot water. And voila the floor looked like sand paper. Rinsed it for what seemed like a week then mixed up some baking soda and gave it all another scrub. Rinsed for another hour, then gave it a final pressure wash.
Turned on the ceiling and exhaust fans, through in a 20" box fan and cranked the heat up to help dry it all out.
After 2 days it looked dry and it was time to go.

Let me start by saying if you're going to do this, eat a lot of ice cream in the weeks before you start as, you will need the pails!

Mixed up the primer. Used red solo cups to measure it into the ice cream tubs. My shop is 575sq/ft so divided it into fours and used one bucket for each section. Mix, roll out, and repeat.
This stuff is pretty thin and tacks up really quickly. I trimmed out around the edges and filled in with a roller. Looked like ****, but I had about 1/4 of a gallon left that I hadn't mixed up so once it was set up I went back in and did a few touch ups. Still looked like **** but knew it would be OK once the epoxy was on.

20160902_163009_zpsllnmvebj.jpg


Let me say this stuff stinks, I probably should have worn my respirator!
I tried using the little squeegee for this but it was a waste of time and ended up stuck to the floor in the rapidly curing primer.

Made myself a pair of ghetto spiked shoes with 1/2" plywood and some 1-1/4" deck screws, they actually worked pretty good! Didn't even have to re-tape them.

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The next morning I woke up, it was all cured and I was ready for the armorclad.

This is where eating the ice cream would have come in handy as I was out of buckets.
The primer peeled out of the buckets fairly well and with a little scrub were ready to go.

The little squeegee that comes in the kit is a waste of time, it's just too small and flimsy. When the kit arrived I saw this so ordered one of these.
http://www.epoxysuperstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_20&products_id=148

The chips that came with the kit were mostly dark brown and black. I was a bit worried that i would never find anything I dropped on the floor. So inspired by a few other threads I've seen and the designer gray colour on armorpoxy's website I ordered 6lbs of custom flake from Norkan as well. Taupe, cocoa, and cream= Designer beige!

So back to the install...
I was working by myself so knew that once I started I needed to go.
Using the 16oz solo cups like a ladle I mixed up the first batch. Cut in the edges, poured out the rest about 1ft from the wall and tried to pull it with the squeegee. That didn't work! So ended up just rolling it out.
I had divided the flake into 4 bags, so grabbed the first bag and started throwing it up it the air. Didn't get a very nice even spread and had a few clumps but it looked ok.

20160904_094311_zpsuwpjcv6g.jpg


Next bucket went smoother, found that if I pushed the squeegee it worked awesome. This cut my spread time considerably.
I could spend more time back rolling.
Chip spreading got better as well. Bounce them off the ceiling, this breaks up any clumps and gives a better spread.

All in all it turned our looking pretty good.

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Tip... When wearing spiked shoes, don't drag or slide your feet!
And don't walk out into the yard then back into the wet epoxy, unless you have a scraper in your pocket :(

Took this afternoon off to go to Lions club demo derby. I think this is the 40th labour day Sunday for this event. Shear carnage!!!

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Got home this evening, had to watch Fear the walking dead, then out to the shop for the top coat.

I thought the primer stunk!! This stuff will kill you. I had the respirator hanging around my neck when I opened the can and quickly put it on :shocking: Even with it on I could still taste it. My whole neighbourhood stinks.

This stuff is quite watery.
I mixed up the gallon and a half in a three gallon pail and cut in all the way around. You have to keep stirring and the anti slip quickly settles to the bottom. Pour a little into the roller tray and stir it with the roller as you work.
Painted myself out the man door and by the time I was done I think the last dregs were really gritty. I put a pretty heavy coat just inside the door as this area get the most wear.



So TIPS for you folks that might want to attempt this on your own.

If your floor has been power troweled pick up some muriatic acid, a gallon did the job on my 575sq/ft floor.
Buy a box of decent nitrile gloves, you'll use more than a few pair.
Buy a decent notched squeegee, it really cuts down on your time spreading the epoxy.
Buy a few good quality roller sleeves. The ones in the kit will work but were a bit shorter than my 9" frame.
Go to the paint store and pick up a handful of paint mixing sticks.
Eat lots of ice cream in the weeks before.
Anyone who thinks they can get away without spiked shoes is wrong.
You will leave something that you need on the window ledge across the room, or need to get at your thermostat, or... It's always something.
Make sure all your ducks are in a row before you start!!!
Damn ducks have a way of scattering just when you think you're ready to go.

Will post finished pictures tomorrow if I have some time.
And more tips if I think of any I missed.

sam
 
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sammer

Active member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
40
Location
Fernie, B.C.
Just went out to drop the doors down, I had them up about 2" to get some air movement, and there are 4 big millipedes about 3-4" long wondering around in there.
Obviously they don't have a sense of smell, or maybe they like the smell?
Just weird.

sam
 

docjay

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Messages
9
Thanks for the post...I am starting today the exact color for the same free primer reason....new concrete and 2400 sq ft so pray for me!
 

Firering

Active member
Joined
Jun 28, 2013
Messages
40
Location
St. Louis
Great job on the floor. That color looks really good. Good write up and tips you shared. How long did it take for your color coat to dry/cure?
 
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sammer

Active member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
40
Location
Fernie, B.C.
Great job on the floor. That color looks really good. Good write up and tips you shared. How long did it take for your color coat to dry/cure?

I left the epoxy to set for about 30hrs before the top coat.
It might have been set up enough to walk on earlier but I was watching the carnage.
I don't know about armorpoxy but the epoxy I use for building skis needs to cure for a week after a good hour at 160f.
It looks and feels solid but is still forming chains as it cures.


Found another tip for ya...
Don't put your empty cans down on the patio.
The stuff that runs down the sides while you were pouring makes a real mess!!

sam
 

ri_truck_guy

New member
Joined
Jun 2, 2016
Messages
1
Thanks for the detailed post. I've been lurking on here for a while and getting ready to order for mine. Appreciate you insights.

Bill
 
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sammer

Active member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
40
Location
Fernie, B.C.
Finally found some time to move the grindrite, tool boxes and beer fridge back into the shop. Had to go down to Sandpoint Idaho for boys soccer tournament this weekend. Weather was nice compared to the cold snap we've had here! Lots of fresh snow on the mountains when we got home.

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Top coat went down alright. Hard to see where you've rolled though as it is pretty clear and it was late at night working under florescent lights.

I've seen lots of people complaining lately about loss of gloss after the anti slip in the topcoat was applied. It does change the hi gloss finish but I think it's for the better. The floor is not slippery at all.

Here's a good pic of the gloss.

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It diffuses the light differently but is still glossy.
The hardest part is getting even coverage with the anti slip, I can definitely see roller marks when I look at the reflections of the light coming in the bay doors.
Probably should have put a bit more care in mixing and rolling, but it's just a garage and I'm sure it will look a lot worse once I start working in there!
Overall I'm super happy with the result. Had a buddy over for beers and to help me move **** back in. He's ready to pull the trigger on his floor and he can't believe how good it looks. When I pointed out the few flaws in my application he was laughing, he didn't notice any of it until I pointed it out and probably wouldn't have.

Time will tell if this floor will stand up to the abuse it will see in the next few years, but so far it's looking pretty good.

Started getting the cove base glued in this afternoon, will try to get it finished up tomorrow. Need to trim out around the man door first.
The contrast of the gray cove base against the floor and walls looks good. Might have to do the trim around doors and windows in the gray as well.

sam
 

Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
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Location
NJ
Very nice job...send us some final photos, always looking for more glamour shots for our website.
 
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sammer

Active member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
40
Location
Fernie, B.C.
Well I see photophucket finally shut down my photo links!!
Guess it's time to find a new hosting site.
What a pain in the a**.

Sorry guys,
sam
 

Brian H.

New member
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
3
Location
New Oxford, PA
Thanks for the post and the advice. I'm ordering my kit tomorrow in the Desert Tan. I have a 1 car garage and a separate 2 car garage but I'm just doing the 1 car first to see how it turns out. One question I had was when you put the masking tape down, did you leave it down through the whole process? I'm worried about leaving it on and not being able to pull it up once I put the topcoat down and it boogers the edge up. On the other hand, I don't want to mask off at each step either.

I also see that you posted pictures but they weren't coming up on my computer for some reason. Would've liked to see how the beige looks because that was the other color I was considering.
 

Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
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NJ
Email us directly as we should have some photos that may be helpful for color choosing. Note though that camera exposures can show colors waaaaaaaaaaay off from what they look like in person. We have seen grays look blue, blues look gray, etc in the photos!
 

RGKSR

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
47
Location
Bucks County, Pa
This morning I put the Armorpoxy II primer/color down on my garage extension (32x48). Tomorrow morning I'll put the clear coat on. So far it looks great. I didn't get the flakes because I drop lot's of stuff and I'd spend half the day looking for stuff.

Your thoughts were very helpful.
Bob K.
 

ard

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Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
Well I see photophucket finally shut down my photo links!!
Guess it's time to find a new hosting site.
What a pain in the a**.

Sorry guys,
sam

Nah, just add the photobuck add on for Chrome or Firefox, defeats their blocking!

I can see the pictures fine. Nice work.

Gotta say, when you said 'eat lots of icecream' I was thinking 'time to carb load??'

Years ago I did a brick red epoxy floor, talk about noxious. As bad as the old swedish urethane floors, maybe worse.
 

Sam

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Jul 10, 2019
Messages
2
Location
VA
Is it okay to apply polyurethane on top of a clear 100% solid epoxy? I am thinking 4 layers total: primer, base colored epoxy, clear coat epoxy, then polyurethane for UV protection. Anything wrong with that?
 

Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
Messages
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NO don't do that. Clear epoxies can yellow over time, even underneath UV protected clear urethane, we have seen this happen. If you want additional protection you can add a 2nd coat of clear urethane topcoat.
 

Sam

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Jul 10, 2019
Messages
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Location
VA
““Clear epoxies can yellow over time, even underneath UV protected clear urethane, we have seen this happen. If you want additional protection you can add a 2nd coat of clear urethane topcoat.””

I know some yellowing will occur, but isn’t that also the case with colored epoxy? For example, if I put down a beige epoxy then the polyurethane (no clear epoxy), wouldn’t the beige epoxy yellow as well? Is there anything structurally wrong with a clear epoxy (on top of beige epoxy) then a layer or two of polyurethane?
 
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