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armorpoxy 100% solids with SPGX polyurea clear???

rjacobs

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In my never ending research that goes off the deep end far to often I am researching what to do in the new garage floor. I keep going between a coating(epoxy or polyaspartic/polyurea) and porcelain tile. So im trying to research the various coating options right now. I got quotes from two local places that do straight polyaspartic coatings at $4 a sq. ft. including grinding with a lifetime warranty. I think I can do it for like 50% less, maybe 40% less if I rent a diamond grinder vs. acid etching.

I was all sold on doing the Armorpoxy kit with the primer, 100% solids epoxy and the single part top coat(dont need the military top coat). Then im reading issues with yellowing of the top coat(my garage will face west-north west so if the doors are open, lots of sun exposure).... So I read that Armorpoxy has their SPGX polyurea system and I go on their site and look into it, but not sure I want to just do 2 layers of polyurea as I read elsewhere that it doesnt get the bond strength to concrete that 100% solids epoxy does.

So I am wondering if doing epoxy primer, 100% solids epoxy, and then the SPGX(polyurea) top coat vs. an epoxy top coat is an option? Or if the two materials dont bond together properly.
 
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argulator

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You can probably do that, but it won't solve the yellowing problem. The epoxy under the polyurea would still yellow given enough time. That is, unless you do full coverage with chips.
 
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rjacobs

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Ah...

I was under the impression that it was the epoxy clear top coat that was the problem...not the color middle coat.
 

thammel

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I did armorpoxy with the military topcoat and it is fantastic. I would do it again without hesitation...maybe even 2 coats of the topcoat.

Tom
 
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rjacobs

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I did armorpoxy with the military topcoat and it is fantastic. I would do it again without hesitation...maybe even 2 coats of the topcoat.

Tom

This thread is what led me to be a bit gun shy on the armorpoxy... well not necessarily gun shy on armorpoxy, but I guess it highlighted epoxy's tendency to yellow no matter what kind of wonder top coating you put on it. That is not exclusive to armorpoxy from what I have gathered since then.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=420599
 

argulator

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A few pics of my now 5 year old epoxy in this thread:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=335168&highlight=tnemec

I have some yellowing in spots where I put down the epoxy clearcoat too thick and pretty much browning in spots where I missed with the topcoat. 80% of it still looks new. It still looks good to me and is tough as nails. I'm thinking about doing a epoxy/full flake/polyurea on my new garage which will fix the yellowing. I just hope its as tough as the epoxy. It better be for the price.
 
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Armorpoxy

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Hi
A polyaspartic topcoat won’t stop yellowing since the epoxy under it can still discolor.

If you have yellowing concerns use the SPGX, we have had no reports from the field over many years that SPGX has a shorter life span or performance than epoxy systems.

Epoxy systems are good choices where you need a thicker more self leveling floor or somewhat higher chip resistance.
 
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rjacobs

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Hi
A polyaspartic topcoat won’t stop yellowing since the epoxy under it can still discolor.

If you have yellowing concerns use the SPGX, we have had no reports from the field over many years that SPGX has a shorter life span or performance than epoxy systems.

Epoxy systems are good choices where you need a thicker more self leveling floor or somewhat higher chip resistance.

Thanks for the feedback.

Is any kind of primer desired or just grind and put the SPGX system down?
 

dcg9381

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but not sure I want to just do 2 layers of polyurea as I read elsewhere that it doesnt get the bond strength to concrete that 100% solids epoxy does.

If there is a bonding strength problem, I'm not aware of it... Zero problems keeping it bonded to concrete. I've had epoxy too and in my experience the bond is at least "as" good - but hard to quantify other than my own experience with it.
110% will use again.
 

Armorpoxy

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Correct, there are zero bonding issues on a properly prepared floor with both epoxies and SPGX Polyurea.
 

kevost

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Sorry a little off topic, but I have a newly poured floor, how many coats of SPGX clear is recommended? It is power troweled and I would plan on acid etching before.
 

Armorpoxy

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One usually sufficíent. A second coat makes it a bit more expensive than a thicker 100% solids system.
 
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