Armorpoxy Decisions and recommendations

[abgiles]

I'm about to finally start having my shop built. It will be a 30x50 Metal building on a concrete slab, insulated and temp controlled, in the Jacksonville, FL area. I've decided on the AmorPoxy brand epoxy floor coating, but am on the fence about a few things. For those that have used their products, I'd like to know experiences with DIY installation, etc... on it.

The biggest decision is which one to go with. The shop will be used as my personal shop, for working on old VW's. Dunebuggies, bugs, buses, etc.. and not for general commercial use. I'll have a 4 post lift, tool boxes, etc... standard home garage stuff.

Questions:
1. Is the ArmorPoxy II enough to stand the test of time? I'm not afraid of spending the extra for the ArmorUltra if the performance justifies it, but if not needed, don't want to spend it.

2. As a fairly competent DIY type of guy that reads, re-reads, preps, etc.. extensively prior to work, I would like to know how difficult the entire process really is.

3. Acid Etching: I've read several places where it's needed on new slabs, and several that say skip it for new slabs. Thoughts?

4. Topcoating: I'll be going with some flake, so I'll be using the clear. Question: I have a couple of large custom stickers that I'd like to put over the finished bottom coat (no flake where the stickers would go, obviously), and would like to clear over them, but am fairly confident the clear wouldn't bond, or is it more of a filler? (Definitely not a deal breaker if this isn't recommeneded).

5. Lift install. The lift I'm purchasing has casters if I choose to move it, but I'll be anchoring it down for permanent installation. Should I do this prior to the ArmorPoxy being applied, or after? Pros and cons of each?

Thanks for any input and advice!

 

[thammel]

I can help with many of your questions as I just did an Armorpoxy ultra floor in my garage 2 weeks ago. First of all, it's a great product and will give you great results. For me, armorpoxy II was the primer, ultra was the topcoat and then I put down the commercial/military 2 part epoxy clear topcoat.

I would definitely do it again and recommend going the way I went. The results are fantastic and all 3 layers being 2 part epoxy should be extremely durable. Of course, I can't tell you that from my experience as it's only been down 2 weeks.

You'll have greater total thickness if you put down the ultra instead of the II.

I'm also a DIY guy who does just about all myself and I am 67 now. I did my 32x28 totally by myself without any problems. See my "kudos to Armorpoxy" thread below.

Your slab should be at least 30 days old before prepping it. I would definitely do the acid etch that comes from Armorpoxy. Check out their website and download all the prepping and application instructions. This should be helpful to you.

Not sure about the decals but this might work. I'd imagine the clearcoat would cover them and lock them in place and protect them. Ask Armorpoxy about this.

As to the lift, I had the same question regarding a 2 post lift. I decided to have the lift installed first and then put down the epoxy. I just didn't want to take a chance on marring the epoxy by installing the lift afterwards. Now, for a 4 post, if you do ever plan to move it, it would be nice to have the entire floor coated first (so there would be no uncoated spots). If the casters are poly, I think the epoxy could take their abrasion without difficulty.

Good luck!
Tom

 

[abgiles]

Thanks Tom! I do love the idea of a thicker/more durable one, and knew what I needed to do there, but was trying to cheat myself I believe. I absolutely only want to do this once. I've been reading quite a bit on AmorPoxy's website, and with the size floor I'll have, will definitely find a helper for the cutting in, pre-mixing, etc...

I seriously doubt I'll ever move the lift once I get it positioned correctly, but you can never tell, and I've been second guessing the permanent install as well, so I believe I will do the floor before the lift, so if I do decide to move it, there won't be gaps.

I appreciate the information!

Brian

 

[Toomanytools?]

Since the concrete is new it does need to have some open pores for Epoxy to "bite" into. So if you don't have a power troweled floor acid etch will achieve that easily.
I have seen lifts done both ways before and after epoxy, if you lay down some cardboard or plywood you can protect from scratches. The bigger concern is getting a nice flat surface to bolt down to so before epoxy would be better. Or mark where the lift pads are and place a piece of ply or similar footprint as pad so you can epoxy up to that, making sure you can remove it later.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi All,
Figured we would weigh in here.

1. Armorpoxy II is not the right choice if you are going to fleck into it. Armorpoxy II is actually a lower solids coating and is often used as the primer for ArmorUltra or Armorclad. Thinner coatings don't hold flecks as well in our opinion.

2. Armorclad is the same epoxy as Armorultra. Most people buy the Armorclad kits since they are more complete and packaged for smaller areas like garages. There is no difference between the two.

3. As for decals, you can do that but they often fail since you are putting vinyl in between the epoxy and topcoat, so the vinyl can lift off the epoxy, and the topcoat can peel off the vinyl so be aware of this as this would not be a warranty issue on our end if this happend. If you do decal, do NOT put it where you drive as that is asking for a peel. There is a company that makes 'mesh' decals the you embed in clear epoxy over your floor, their name is www.agioimaging.com. We use these in firehouses.

4. Etching or grinding is mandatory, don't skip this step please! If you grind, you must prime, and priming is strongly recommended for all applications.

5. Put the lift in first, anchor it down and coat around it. We have seen multiple times where the lifts have scratched or damaged the floor, and then the repair is not that easy to match.

Please feel free to contact us directly, as we are here to help!

 

[abgiles]

Hi All,
Figured we would weigh in here.

1. Armorpoxy II is not the right choice if you are going to fleck into it. Armorpoxy II is actually a lower solids coating and is often used as the primer for ArmorUltra or Armorclad. Thinner coatings don't hold flecks as well in our opinion.

2. Armorclad is the same epoxy as Armorultra. Most people buy the Armorclad kits since they are more complete and packaged for smaller areas like garages. There is no difference between the two.

3. As for decals, you can do that but they often fail since you are putting vinyl in between the epoxy and topcoat, so the vinyl can lift off the epoxy, and the topcoat can peel off the vinyl so be aware of this as this would not be a warranty issue on our end if this happend. If you do decal, do NOT put it where you drive as that is asking for a peel. There is a company that makes 'mesh' decals the you embed in clear epoxy over your floor, their name is www.agioimaging.com. We use these in firehouses.

4. Etching or grinding is mandatory, don't skip this step please! If you grind, you must prime, and priming is strongly recommended for all applications.

5. Put the lift in first, anchor it down and coat around it. We have seen multiple times where the lifts have scratched or damaged the floor, and then the repair is not that easy to match.

Please feel free to contact us directly, as we are here to help!

Thanks for the reply! I definitely want to do this only once, and will contact you when the shop is completed and I'm ready to do it. I'll definitely stay away from the sticker unless I go with the mesh one. I certainly won't want to take any chances. I've got a fairly large area, so that's why I'm doing the UltraArmor, as I'll order it on the pallet.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Great! Kindly contact us directly as we do not monitor the GJ all of the time. Thank you very much.

 

[abgiles]

So, while looking at other posts, a few more questions came up.

1. As my slab has yet to be poured, any special recommendations on how to have the finish it? i.e. Should I tell them to power trowel it?

2. I plan on using the UltraArmor on a pallet, and was wondering if I can put down the sealer prior to the building being built. The directions say allow the primer to cure at least 8 hours, but is 3 weeks too long before going onto the next coat? Obviously I'd need to clean it again, etc... but figured it would be easier to do while open, the the next coats after it was completed.

3. Along with question 2, if I do prime it without a building, is overnight condensation a threat? I could do the install in the a.m. have it cure all day, but there would definitely be a bit of condensation come the next morning.

 

[stm317]

I'm pretty sure that you need to give the concrete plenty of time to set up and cure before doing any work on it. 28 days seems to be the number that sticks out in my mind, but others can clarify. Once the slab is fully cured you can do a moisture test, and if it passes, you can grind or acid etch before priming.

In most cases, the building is at least partially constructed by the time people get around to doing their floors. Realistically, it will probably be at least a month after the pour before you can properly prime it. Use that time to work on other aspects of the build.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
We recommend doing the floor last, the trades will most likely damage your nice floor! Weather, condensation, potential damage all can ruin your nice floor....

Don't have them put in a sealer, you will just need to grind it off.

 

[Mickm]

Tom,
I couldn't be happier with mine.
Two years ago, I called and talked to a saleman several times getting information for everything I thought I should know before starting my DIY project.
I ordered, and followed the instructions to the letter. The floor looked awesome!!!
Fast forward a year. The beige paint had started turning a horrible orange color. I cleaned it with everything I could that I didn't think would hurt the finish. I finally called the company and was told I needed to do a moisture test. I did and was then told the paint would not work unless I scraped up every inch of it and primed and repainted....at my expense! This was never mentioned in my initial conversations with them.
I ordered a complete Flow thru floor from Racedeck and the paint beneath makes a perfect background. As I said, I couldn't be happier with it now.

I wish you the best of luck!

Cheers!
Mickm