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Armstrong Ratchet

Jsf721

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I purchased a new Armstrong Ratchet off eBay.

Upon arrival, the selector switch on the back side did not have a smooth action. Fast forward a few weeks and it locked into position. Cannot move it left or right. I blasted it with WD40 and it freed it up, got my job done.

I would like to open it up and see if I can find the problem or just lube it up. Looks like if I remove the c clip spring the guts will pull out. I have never taken a ratchet apart, and wanted to ask if when I remove that clip, it the unit under tension where it will spring out? I need to see where everything is so I can get it back together.

Any suggestions on what to have on hand for Lube and cleaner?

Thanks
 
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pilotmotor

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sorry wrong info previously posted.
Check this video out , it should be the same as the Armstrong maxx,
 
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lincwelder225

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I'm following this, as my 11-992 88 tooth ratchet locked up on me. I only used it a hand full of times when the selector switch locked up and the ratchet wouldn't turn
 
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jsmeece

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I have one. It tends to reverse direction unexpectedly. Been trying to find a rebuild kit with no luck.

For some reason, not all of Armstrong ratchet have repair kit available.

Here is a list of Armstrong ratchets by model number and their associated repair kits. Note these are the latest models, so older ratchets may not be listed on this sheet.

If there is no repair kit listed on this sheet for your particular Armstrong ratchet, then Armstrong did not make a repair kit for it or it was discontinued.

Now, if I remember right, some USA made Craftsman kits will work in some similar Armstrong ratchets, the round head fine tooth ratchet (RHFT) kits come to mind.

I am not sure if the raised panel 1/2 Craftsman or Allen (Napa, Kobalt, etc.) USA kits will work in the Armstrong quick release ratchets. I do not own any of these to test that theory.
 

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DSLTRK

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You likely have the armstrong thin profile pear head. To remove the guts remove the snap ring. Nothing will fly out.
Take the gear and pawl out and focus on the selector lever. Push on the plunger to see if it catches.

If it is defective, a selector from the craftsman thin profile repair kit will fit.

These ratchets should only be lubed with a light oil. No grease.
 

Shane6377

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As others have posted, a model number will get you answers for your specific ratchet.

In general, when you remove the c-clip and face plate from most ratchets the springs etc don’t come flying out. Once you remove the gear you have to worry about parts coming loose.

Don’t laugh but the first time I disassembled my ratchets I sat a cardboard box on its side and did the work inside the box. That caught all the springs, pins and balls that came popping out.

As far as lube goes... I have good luck with Super Lube from Harbor Freight or Marvel Mystery Oil (Walmart, orielleys etc). Another popular option is Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jsmeece

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The model number also helps determine if one should use grease or oil in the ratchet. In my Armstrong 972 and 974 series ratchets, I use super lube, but in my older Armstrong 12-915 I use machine oil.
 

DSLTRK

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The model number also helps determine if one should use grease or oil in the ratchet. In my Armstrong 972 and 974 series ratchets, I use super lube, but in my older Armstrong 12-915 I use machine oil.

If it is the Maxx series ratchet, super lube will cause it to lock up.
 

jsmeece

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If it is the Maxx series ratchet, super lube will cause it to lock up.

That is why I said we need to know the model number to determine what type of lube to use.

Armstrong 915, 972 and 974 series ratchets are NOT Maxx series ratchets.

I know other GJ members put superlube in their Snap-On 80 ratchets with no problem, so I see no reason why a little superlube in a Maxx series ratchet would cause them to lock up, usually putting to much in will cause this. But, I do not own any Maxx series ratchets, so I will leave this for other members to discuss.

I do know what ever grease or lube Armstrong puts in their ratchets needs to be cleaned out and replaced INTERMEDIATELY. One of my new 12-972s had small pieces of metal in the lube, which caused it to lock up. Brand new ratchet and **** lube: either quality control issues or contaminated lube.
 
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jsmeece

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I said in post #4 its a 11-994. Its brand new, was still in the sealed plastic bag when I got it. I used it a hand full of times when it acted up.

My advise, take apart, clean and lube with very very little superlube or machine oil. If still acting up get a Matco rebuild kit for it. I do remember some early Armstrong 88 ratchets had issues with locking up and putting in new kits fixed that problem.
 

lincwelder225

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My advise, take apart, clean and lube with very very little superlube or machine oil. If still acting up get a Matco rebuild kit for it. I do remember some early Armstrong 88 ratchets had issues with locking up and putting in new kits fixed that problem.

Cool beans! Thanks a lot! I'll give that a try
 
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DSLTRK

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That is why I said we need to know the model number to determine what type of lube to use.

Armstrong 915, 972 and 974 series ratchets are NOT Maxx series ratchets.

I know other GJ members put superlube in their Snap-On 80 ratchets with no problem, so I see no reason why a little superlube in a Maxx series ratchet would cause them to lock up, usually putting to much in will cause this. But, I do not own any Maxx series ratchets, so I will leave this for other members to discuss.

I do know what ever grease or lube Armstrong puts in their ratchets needs to be cleaned out and replaced INTERMEDIATELY. One of my new 12-972s had small pieces of metal in the lube, which caused it to lock up. Brand new ratchet and **** lube: either quality control issues or contaminated lube.

I think the OP has a Maxx series ratchet due to the mention of the 'C-clip'. I don't think it would be the rare RHFT version, because those weren't known to have issues and they are rare versions with the Armstrong name.
The other Armstrong pearheads all have the cover plate with the screws.

The Danaher designed ratchets with the single floating pawl are not the same as a dual80. They react to grease much differently.

Dual80s work like a fine Swiss watch with a medium weight grease, while Matco88s, Armstrong Maxx, Gearwrench and the Craftsman Thin Profiles all should only be lubricated with a light oil.

Anything thicker like grease or super lube will cause the pawl to vacuum lock to the gear and will pull it back on the back stroke, essentially jamming the selector. This is magnified if the weather is colder.
 

jsmeece

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I think the OP has a Maxx series ratchet due to the mention of the 'C-clip'.

Looking at his post, he never mentions which series he has. And most of the Armstrong series ratchets have c-clips.

The other Armstrong pearheads all have the cover plate with the screws.

NO, the tear drop quick release series (967A, 974A, 975A) and the other tear drop shaped series (968A, 972A, 973A) all have clips, so do all roundheads (915, 915A).

As for the Armstrong 915 series (not the 915A series), the Craftsman RHFT rebuilt kits should fit, and they are not rare. They were still listed in the 2014 Armstrong catalog and several are listed used on Ebay.

Dual80s work like a fine Swiss watch with a medium weight grease, while Matco88s, Armstrong Maxx, Gearwrench and the Craftsman Thin Profiles all should only be lubricated with a light oil.

Anything thicker like grease or super lube will cause the pawl to vacuum lock to the gear and will pull it back on the back stroke, essentially jamming the selector. This is magnified if the weather is colder.

That is why I said a very very light coat of superlube. I do not know why people place the gear in the ratchet then proceed to fit the cavity with superlube. That is not how you lube a ratchet. People, this is not that difficult. :bounce:
 

Sir Eatsalot

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I have an Armstrong Maxx ratchet too. I bought it when I heard Armstrong would be taken out behind the barn and given one to the head by Apex. I figured it was a chance to get my hands on an old American tool brand and a Matco 88 for 50 bucks at the same time. But yeah, the selector switch takes some force to move. I thought maybe it needed a break in period but I've had it for months and used it about a dozen times and it hasn't changed. It's also clunky, I don't know how to explain it, it just doesn't sound good when ratcheting. Like you can hear bare metal grinding against bare metal. And I've taken it apart and lubed it. I used 3 in 1 oil because I heard grease isn't good for them. But it didn't make a difference. I may try Super lube despite the warnings not to grease it. I'm just disappointed in this ratchet, I wish I put that money towards a dual 80.
 

DSLTRK

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Looking at his post, he never mentions which series he has. And most of the Armstrong series ratchets have c-clips.



NO, the tear drop quick release series (967A, 974A, 975A) and the other tear drop shaped series (968A, 972A, 973A) all have clips, so do all roundheads (915, 915A).

As for the Armstrong 915 series (not the 915A series), the Craftsman RHFT rebuilt kits should fit, and they are not rare. They were still listed in the 2014 Armstrong catalog and several are listed used on Ebay.



That is why I said a very very light coat of superlube. I do not know why people place the gear in the ratchet then proceed to fit the cavity with superlube. That is not how you lube a ratchet. People, this is not that difficult. :bounce:

Oh you're talking about the common Danaher 36t rebrands. That may be the one asked about but not likely. Those aren't known for locking up at the selector. Skipping teeth, yes but not locking up. There's pages and pages of complaints about the maxx series rats locking up though.
 

jsmeece

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DSLTRK, yeah all of the rebranded Danaher with the Armstrong name are troublesome, except the 915 series (RHFT with hourglass handle) not the 915A (rebanded Danaher ratchet with round handle).

I really like and have several of the TRUE Armstrong ratchets (972, 973, and 974 series), the ones with two screw holding the ratcheting mechanism in the head and they are great. I also really like the flat hourglass handles too, feel nice in my hands, no pinch either. I know the Maxx series are also troublesome, that is the main reason I do not have any, spend $50 and they lockup straight out of the bag. :beer:
 

sk farmer

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i have 6 armstrong maxx ratchets, 4 in 3/8 and 2 in 1/4. throw in 4 more gearwrench and a husky. they all use the same mechanism or the dual pawl version of it. i cannot recall ever having a lockup. i am sure it has happened but i think it is far more rare and far more exaggerated than it is in reality.

many of them come dry or have the wrong lube on them. clean them up and put a few drops of marvel mystery oil (do not use grease or assembly lube) and they are rock solid and reliable.
 

plinker

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i have 6 armstrong maxx ratchets, 4 in 3/8 and 2 in 1/4. throw in 4 more gearwrench and a husky. they all use the same mechanism or the dual pawl version of it. i cannot recall ever having a lockup. i am sure it has happened but i think it is far more rare and far more exaggerated than it is in reality.

many of them come dry or have the wrong lube on them. clean them up and put a few drops of marvel mystery oil (do not use grease or assembly lube) and they are rock solid and reliable.

^
+1

I have had them auto reverse, usually after breaking a bolt loose, but the only one that locks up on me is a Matco 60 tooth flex head that I put a Gearwrench 84 tooth kit in. It'll be getting a Matco kit installed after I figure out the reason why it does it.

By locking up it locks up the square drive and flicking the selector doesnt free it, have to turn the drive slightly while fiddling the selector to free it, it's like it has too much travel and get caught.


The only issue I've had with my Maxx ratchets is the on the locking flex versions, 1/2 & 3/8, teeth on the head are apparently softer then the lock. The 1/2 was warrantied once due to it.
 

sk farmer

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^
+1

I have had them auto reverse, usually after breaking a bolt loose, but the only one that locks up on me is a Matco 60 tooth flex head that I put a Gearwrench 84 tooth kit in. It'll be getting a Matco kit installed after I figure out the reason why it does it.

By locking up it locks up the square drive and flicking the selector doesnt free it, have to turn the drive slightly while fiddling the selector to free it, it's like it has too much travel and get caught.


The only issue I've had with my Maxx ratchets is the on the locking flex versions, 1/2 & 3/8, teeth on the head are apparently softer then the lock. The 1/2 was warrantied once due to it.


i have heard of the wrong pawl and gear being an issue. for example an 88 tooth pawl got mixed in with your 84 tooth gear or vice versa.

with 60, 72, 84 and 88 tooth versions out there the possibility of a mixup is quite real.
 

plinker

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i have heard of the wrong pawl and gear being an issue. for example an 88 tooth pawl got mixed in with your 84 tooth gear or vice versa.

with 60, 72, 84 and 88 tooth versions out there the possibility of a mixup is quite real.

I agree. That could be the cause of the ratchet locking up problem. Armstrong does/did use the Gearwrench selector and switch from 60 to 88 teeth. I wouldnt think the internals of these style ratchets would be that different to where interchangeability would be that much of an issue.

It'd be similar to a Husky socket being stamped Silver eagle or Masterforce being stamped Armstrong/Allen. Given they are or were made in the same factory's.
 

sk farmer

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I've used that exact air tool oil with excellent results on my Craftsman Thin profiles and Matco 88.

same here. other than different containers i don't think there is much difference between the two.
 

mikebaker1129

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A small plastic tube of Marvel mystery oil is what was provided in my Armstrong 88 tooth repair kits.
It works well in this style of ratchet for sure!
 

sk farmer

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Thanks to everyone who replied... I went out and bought some marvel mystery oil and its working like a swiss watch. Thanks again!

glad it worked for you!


you know, people are funny. i think many of the people who have trouble with them don't have any lube or have incorrect lube in them.

there are endless types of engine oil and weights. then throw in power steering fluid, gear oil, transmission oil , hydraulic oil and etc. you use the correct oil in the correct application and would not think of doing it any other way.

tell someone to use mmo(marvel mystery oil) in a maxx ratchet and they want to use super lube or something else and then complain that it is a ****** ratchet when it doesn't work right.
 

lincwelder225

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I agree... Although mine was brand new. When i cleaned it, it was full of old grease, similar to plastilube. Which would explain why in the fall it worked great and this winter it jammed up. It is a great ratchet, far from being ******. Glad minevis up and running again. Again, thanks for the tip on MMO.
 
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