Ask Rapidair!

[onewheat]

Just as a differing opinion, I have white walls and wouldn't want white or light grey tube - I like the contrast of the blue on white.

 

[nodoor]

I thought blue was the OSHA or ANSI color code for compressed air piping?

 

[IMCA38]

Mine is already done.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361663

 

[crook038]

Nice shop, great idea on straightening the pipe out.

Thanks. I looked at buying the straightener but couldn’t justify the cost so I figured I would try to make something out of items I already had on hand from other projects. It would be nice if rapid air did offer a tool rental, most of us will only have use for the straightener for 1 installation.
Sean

 

[smalltown]

I think it's great that MitchH is on the forum, and willing to answer questions. Kudos to you Mitch !
I've got my Rapidair 3/4" kit, and am waiting for the right time to install it. My biggest concern like many is straightening out the tubing. I don't want the expense of buying a straightener just for a one time use in my home garage.

Crook038 has a great suggestion for the tool rental.

 

[akdiesel]

Welcome Mitch to a great forum.

I do not have this product but it seems to have great reviews and great results, but as for straight runs and keeping them straight There are options. I am a big fan of Unistrut and the opening of the strut is about 7/8", so one could install the strut onto the studs with simple screws and then install the Rapidair runs with in the strut. This will aid in keeping it straight and protect it from any external damage if needed. They also make rubber, plastic and metal caps that snap into the strut to cover it. This can also house small wires and or romex if needed to run extra power with out cutting into your walls.
Once the strut is in place unroll your tubing into the strut and leave or cut spacers for your drops.

 

[Double J]

I have installed the 3/4” rapid air maxline kit in my garage. Actually i have used 2 of the 100 foot kits with some leftover for drops as needed. I am more than satisfied with the performance of the system. My system currently consists of 3 hose reel drops mounted on the ceiling and a dedicated drop for the 4 post lift to power the rolling jacks and air locks. The hardest part is straightening the pipe when unrolling it. I used boat trailer rollers mounted on a board and then pulled it through narrowing 2x4’s mounted to the same board. I actually prefer the blue color, it’s usually a conversation piece. Great product but I wish the fittings were priced more reasonably. Would I recommend it to a friend, absolutely yes.
Sean

Well done, sir. That's pretty much the blue (no pun intended) print when I get ready to do mine.

 

[Augus7us]

Since we've scared mitch off already, for those of you who have installed it, would you run it in the walls over copper?

I know at least a few people have said it developed leaks after they installed it. I think in both cases I read, they admitted it was a mistake on their end during installation, but that is why they said they wouldn't run it in the walls. Like it didn't start leaking right away or something.

I like the simplicity of the system as I've never sweated copper. But I also know sweating copper is not that difficult and I don't want to rip down drywall to replace a bad oring or something like that with rapid air, if that is a concern. Also longevity, is there a likelihood that something will fail in 5 years or 10 years, where copper would not?

 

[gearhead1]

The question I have is what makes RapidAir UV resistant. We’re not supposed to use PEX for UV damage, so is there a UV resistant additive in the RapidAir or something?

 

[MitchH]

Ok Mitch I'll bite.

First welcome to the site, you will get more than a few questions on here. Air line installation and layout are popular topics.

My question for you is what are your thoughts on running rapid air in the walls or ceilings? I plan on running my airlines in the walls and with copper I don't see any issues but some on here have expressed reservations about running rapidair and similar products in the walls. I'm interested in your thoughts on it and any potential pitfalls you may be aware of.

Thanks

-Clint

Hi Clint, for direct burial underground or in the wall installation, I would recommend the Maxline, size depends on the HP size of your compressor and how long the run/run will be. The Maxline has a lot longer life span than the rapidair home garage kit, along with Nickle plated brass compression fittings vs shark-bite fittings allowing a higher working and burst PSI (200 vs 150psi). The Maxline is overall a much better system, we have tons of customers who bury it in the wall with no issues, Just make sure all of your fittings are sealed up before drywalling, the fittings will not loosen or back themselves off overtime. Follow this link and click on the installation photos on the top of the page, (I will post the link in a bit) , We have some photos of the in-wall installation here.

 

[MitchH]

Welcome to the forum Mitch. I've been looking at the Rapidair systems for well over a year now and was planning to use them in my latest shop refresh. I've already ruled out PVC (I've had one burst a few years back) and black pipe (when I moved I took apart my black pipe system and the internals were rusted out) so we don't need to go there.

What makes me hesitant is the unrolling/straightening activity. I know you offer a straightener, and I wouldn't mind buying one if I knew the results would end up favorable but some who have posted here have said that the results turn out only alright. In your experience, what should my expectations be regarding my ability to (1) uncoil the tube and get the straight parts visually straight and (2) accomplish bends to navigate the tubing around stuff as necessary? Also, how common is installing the air lines in the walls vs on top of the walls?

Thanks, Matt

Hi Matt,

You can get the tubing straight without the straightener, it comes down to two things. Pickyness, and Time. The larger sizes can be "fun" to work with, but if you take your time and roll out the coil, then work it over a table edge or pull it thru some conduit, that really helps, also if the tubing is warm it will help a great deal.

2. Bending any of our sizes is very easy, you can bend by hand or with a conduit bender.

3. In-wall vs. On wall, its a solid mix, If guys know they aren't going to add on and have the walls open, its a great choice to go in wall. I would say its a good 80% On wall vs 20% in wall, and most of that is because of shops already being complete vs new construction where inside the wall is an option.

The other option for you guys who are OCD, the Fastpipe is the best, cleanest look and no wrestling with a coiled product.

 

[MitchH]

I just wish it wasn't blue. Any consideration ever given to a bare or natural finish for those of us, eh blue haters?

Edit- Specifically the rigid system.

Hi jeepinerdeep,

We offer the maxline and fastpipe in Blue or Green, Either system can be spray painted as well, it does no harm to either system!

 

[MitchH]

Why does the fast pipe product not carry the same warranty as competitors? 2yr vs 10year?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

motofool33,

We carry a 1 year warranty on all of our systems, For our competitors, some offer a 10 year warranty, but you need to have met all of their criteria to be approved, which includes having your system installed by a "air professional" (whatever that means) and someone to come in and vertify that install. I believe there is a 10 step process to validate that warranty. That being said, the systems are very simple to fix, usually just a few o-rings will do the trick, and most of that error will happen if the pipe/tubing isn't deburred correctly before installation.

 

[MitchH]

The question I have is what makes RapidAir UV resistant. We’re not supposed to use PEX for UV damage, so is there a UV resistant additive in the RapidAir or something?

Hi Gearhead1,

Our Maxline is NOT UV treated, if installing outside we recommend covering or painting the tubing. Not that being said, we haven't hooked up a system personally and tested the lifespan of the tubing to see how long it will last in the direct sunlight, What I can tell you is that I've had customers puncture/cut the outer layout of the HDPE and the tubing still holds with the middle aluminum layer and in the inner layer of HDPE. We are currently looking into n additive for UV protection that won't jeopardize the PSI capacity of the HDPE itself.

 

[MitchH]

As far as the colors go again guys, Blue is the industry accepted color for Compressed Air, Along with Green normally being a color for Inert gasses. ( we do a lot of Colleges and Weld shop for welding gasses too). As well as vacuum systems. Its more of a safety issue as well so someone at a larger plant, doesnt tap into a white line thinking its PVC conduit or a white water PEX line and instead get compressed air coming out.

 

[MitchH]

https://www.rapidairproducts.com/page/maxline

Here is the link for our Maxline page, you can view the Installation photos on the top, where we have some in-wall application photos.

 

[WIKDRacing]

Welcome Mitch.

I just ordered a 3/4" Maxline system today for my shop. Will be doing the install this weekend, I hope.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

Hi jeepinerdeep,

We offer the maxline and fastpipe in Blue or Green, Either system can be spray painted as well, it does no harm to either system!

Paintable is cool with me. Thanks for answering.

 

[dogdog]

I do have a question, since the kit is Plastic of sort... I have the 3/4 kit still in the box but been in storage for few years since 2010-ish, can I still use it safely ?

I do remember calling you guys about exposing it to sunlight outdoors, and that was a NO. How much exposure is acceptable ? Trying to see if I can run it on the detached un-insulated, unheated garage.... the temp swing on the roof can be very hot in Summer, and freezing cold in the Winter of cause.

 

[MitchH]

I do have a question, since the kit is Plastic of sort... I have the 3/4 kit still in the box but been in storage for few years since 2010-ish, can I still use it safely ?

I do remember calling you guys about exposing it to sunlight outdoors, and that was a NO. How much exposure is acceptable ? Trying to see if I can run it on the detached un-insulated, unheated garage.... the temp swing on the roof can be very hot in Summer, and freezing cold in the Winter of cause.

Hi dogdog,

If you have the Maxline M7500 Master kit, That kit should have a 50 year life span on it, and being in the box protected, I don't believe you will have any issues of leaking. I would just check your o-rings before you install to make sure they are soft still.

As far as the change in temp, we have installed it in some extreme conditions with no issues. The UV Exposure is the sun rays outside. In a covered garage you will be good to go!

 

[Augus7us]

Hi Clint, for direct burial underground or in the wall installation, I would recommend the Maxline, size depends on the HP size of your compressor and how long the run/run will be. The Maxline has a lot longer life span than the rapidair home garage kit, along with Nickle plated brass compression fittings vs shark-bite fittings allowing a higher working and burst PSI (200 vs 150psi). The Maxline is overall a much better system, we have tons of customers who bury it in the wall with no issues, Just make sure all of your fittings are sealed up before drywalling, the fittings will not loosen or back themselves off overtime. Follow this link and click on the installation photos on the top of the page, (I will post the link in a bit) , We have some photos of the in-wall installation here.

Thanks for the info Mitch, I'm glad we didn't run you off

I haven't looked at the maxline stuff yet, but I will check it out. Hopefully I'll be running some airline soon. Getting tired of working on the shop, ready to work in it!

-Clint

 

[dogdog]

Hi dogdog,

If you have the Maxline M7500 Master kit, That kit should have a 50 year life span on it, and being in the box protected, I don't believe you will have any issues of leaking. I would just check your o-rings before you install to make sure they are soft still.

As far as the change in temp, we have installed it in some extreme conditions with no issues. The UV Exposure is the sun rays outside. In a covered garage you will be good to go!

Thanks...

 

[Dureault_s]

I used the max line 3/4” kit got it for a steal and it works great but the manifold kits I got with it are a compression with size down fittings and they were all junk didn’t fit properly at all couldn’t get them to seal with Teflon tape and sealant gunk, ended up going and buying torping manifold quick connect blocks and they work great no leaks 2 air line connects and a drain built it in way nicer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[W.O.B.]

Mitch,

Do you offer the aluminum air line with the plastic outer cover that comes on a spool? We have this product in our current shop, but I am unsure of the manufacturer.

 

[MakoRich]

Mitch,

I used the rapidair 1/2" system when I built a 30*42 garage 10 years ago. It worked fine. It worked fine, except I had lots of condensation issues. I am now building a new 62*40 garage and will need to run air lines. I liked your system but I need a better way to deal with moisture in the lines. TP tools, who I bought a bead blaster from, swears by black iron pipe, although I know they sell your product too. Their catalog suggests the black pipe will be able to handle the moisture problems through configuring the main trunk line with a slight slope to drain water away to a final drop, then take all air supply drops from the top of the pipe. Have you had any customers use a combination of black pipe for the main trunk, and your product for the drops? Or better yet, do you have suggestions on how to remediate moisture/condensation in an air line? I am also buying a new air compressor, something in the 5 - 7.5hp two stage variety.

Thanks,

Rich

 

[schurtjl]

Mitch,

I used the rapidair 1/2" system when I built a 30*42 garage 10 years ago. It worked fine. It worked fine, except I had lots of condensation issues. I am now building a new 62*40 garage and will need to run air lines. I liked your system but I need a better way to deal with moisture in the lines. TP tools, who I bought a bead blaster from, swears by black iron pipe, although I know they sell your product too. Their catalog suggests the black pipe will be able to handle the moisture problems through configuring the main trunk line with a slight slope to drain water away to a final drop, then take all air supply drops from the top of the pipe. Have you had any customers use a combination of black pipe for the main trunk, and your product for the drops? Or better yet, do you have suggestions on how to remediate moisture/condensation in an air line? I am also buying a new air compressor, something in the 5 - 7.5hp two stage variety.

Thanks,

Rich

If you're buying a new 5-7.5 hp compressor anyways, might look at the Champion VR7-8. 7.5 hp single phase 2 stage 80 gal. 25.8 cfm, with integraged air cooled aftercooler. My brother is running this with the rapidair system, with drains at the end of each run. So far no water out of the drains at the end runs. The copper pipe between the compressor and aftercooler is almost too hot to touch, but the aftercooler outlet copper pipe to the tank is cold, so that should be eliminating much of the condensation that would've built up with hot air and no aftercooler. It's nice not having to purchase a separate aftercooler for your system. Quincy sells some compressors with integrated aftercoolers as well.

 

[Showkey]

Mitch,

I used the rapidair 1/2" system when I built a 30*42 garage 10 years ago. It worked fine. It worked fine, except I had lots of condensation issues. I am now building a new 62*40 garage and will need to run air lines. I


Thanks,

Rich

The exception of the condensation is all about your climate, compressor, cooler, separator, filter and line layout..........very little if any about the actual line material.

 

[rlitman]

The exception of the condensation is all about your climate, compressor, cooler, separator, filter and line layout..........very little if any about the actual line material.

Well, an iron pipe will condense more (being metal, and a better conductor of heat). And that's not necessarily a bad thing, as so long as you filter out the condensation, you'll have dryer air for it.

Of course, and iron pipe also rusts from that condensation.

 

[Hoythunter]

I have one of your systems and love it

 

[MitchH]

Mitch,

Do you offer the aluminum air line with the plastic outer cover that comes on a spool? We have this product in our current shop, but I am unsure of the manufacturer.

Hi There, Our Maxline come coiled up, tubing is HDPE-AL-HDPE, blue in color. You can see the product here, check the fittings too to see if they match.

https://www.rapidairproducts.com/page/maxline

 

[MitchH]

Mitch,

I used the rapidair 1/2" system when I built a 30*42 garage 10 years ago. It worked fine. It worked fine, except I had lots of condensation issues. I am now building a new 62*40 garage and will need to run air lines. I liked your system but I need a better way to deal with moisture in the lines. TP tools, who I bought a bead blaster from, swears by black iron pipe, although I know they sell your product too. Their catalog suggests the black pipe will be able to handle the moisture problems through configuring the main trunk line with a slight slope to drain water away to a final drop, then take all air supply drops from the top of the pipe. Have you had any customers use a combination of black pipe for the main trunk, and your product for the drops? Or better yet, do you have suggestions on how to remediate moisture/condensation in an air line? I am also buying a new air compressor, something in the 5 - 7.5hp two stage variety.

Thanks,

Rich

Hi Rich,

A General purpose filter regulator (K93217 for example) mounted at LEAST 3-5 feet away from the compressor will help a lot with the condensation. The black pipe will help condense the moisture, but then you might have an issue with rust and debris. Take a look at our fastpipe system and Saddle drops, They tap into the main pipe half way up, not allowing the moisture to jump to the drop legs unless the water fills up more than 1/2 of the pipe.

 

[lilscorpion]

The other option for you guys who are OCD, the Fastpipe is the best, cleanest look and no wrestling with a coiled product.

Perfect! Not sure why I’ve not stumbled across it but Fastpipe is exactly what I’m looking for. Glad I asked and thank you Mitch.

Matt

 

[Low50s]

Welcome I’d love to add your product to my garage !

 

[motofool33]

Perfect! Not sure why I’ve not stumbled across it but Fastpipe is exactly what I’m looking for. Glad I asked and thank you Mitch.

Matt

Northerntool carries the Fastpipe in 20ft and 10ft lengths too saves alot on shipping.

 

[flan]

What’s the GJ coupon code

 

[MakoRich]

thanks much for the tip

 

[MakoRich]

Thanks Matt. One other option I am considering is building a sort of "radiator" with iron pipe and then connecting to rapidair to run through the walls for the nice neat look. The radiator would be 3 or four vertical lengths of iron pipe, with a drain valve on the drops.

 

[Low50s]

What’s the GJ coupon code

I’m with you! I like the idea of fast pipe not having to fix a coiled roll but I don’t like the plastic fittings

 

[Jim 68 cuda]

I have the Rapidair 3/4" Maxline in my garage. The garage has only been complete and operational for a few months, but the Rapidair system has been performing well and looks good. I have the air compressor in a separate section of the garage, so in my case, we ran the line through the wall.

 

[larry4406]

Jim 68 Cuda - nice garage. I like the coronet!