Asphalt Driveway Quote Help?

[Greatwhitewing]

I know this if for tools but what better tool than a good driveway for a driveway mechanic? lol Better replies here actually.

I have two quotes differing in cost by quite a bit. This is for a small portion over existing driveway and much larger NEW area. The two areas are contiguous.

Both from long standing local reputable companies.

The lower priced guy will do a full 3" of compacted finish (so called better) asphalt. For base he will grind existing driveway and use a regrind/gravel base 6-12" under the new parts. This guy says his equipment is designed for road/commercial use. Claims the others equipment designed for driveways and not as good??? Oh, and his quote was wriiten on his business card and he seems really hungry.

The higher cost guy gave a very detailed quote. 1.5" base, 1.5" topcoat over base and OLD driveway, no other preparation over old work. They would use a 4-6" base I think all gravel under new area.

The cost difference is large. The full 3" over old and new work plus grinding the old driveway seems to me a far better approach. Am I seeing this right? Is this a case of too good to be true?

 

[vartz04]

I work for an asphalt paving company, have been in this business for the past 6 years just so you know where I am getting my info from.

Overlaying an existing driveway is never a good idea. I wouldn't go that route. The reason you have cracks in your asphalt driveway is because the subbase is failing in those areas. Also asphalt has no ability to "bridge" bad material like reinforced concrete does.

As far as grinding the existing driveway and leaving it in place id pass on that as well. We use asphalt grindings as base under concrete roadways but we aren't allowed to do that with asphalt roads (unless its a concrete basecourse with asphalt over the top). Asphalt grindings don't provide as stable of a platform as 3/4" rock with the fines left in it (called CA-6 on our road jobs).

Request a 6" base under all new stuff and check out what the base is under your existing driveway after they grind it or remove it. Drive a heavy truck over the base and look for soft spots and remove the base and some of the dirt under it and add new stone thicker in these areas.

You'll have a much more solid driveway this way.

 

[Greatwhitewing]

I think you just ruled out the guy that would put a 1.5" topcoat on the existing driveway!!!

I'll talk to the low guy and see if he is willing to remove old driveway and put the same base under both portions which was 6-12" of compacted gravel (I think).

The old area will only have light duty cars parked on it. The new will have my 6k pound truck on it.

 

[vartz04]

you may not need the extra base under the old drivway. The only way you'll know is if you take a pick and bust through the middle of your driveway and keep going until you hit dirt and measure what is there for stone. 4"+ and id just do it the way he said to do it leaving the grindings.

If you have less than 4" or your existing asphalt is really thick (4"+ because this would add a lot of grindings) id have him remove the asphalt and add stone.

 

[geologist]

Make sure that if he lays asphalt over existing asphalt that he tars the original surface and seals the finished end, otherwise you can have serious delamination issues, depending on how the weather is where you live.

This photo is a bit exaggerated (from a tar and chip job) but you should get the point:

 

[A_Pmech]

That's the cutest little oil truck!

 

[Steevo]

The asphalt company that did my driveway took out 12" or more of the existing dirt/rock, then brought in and compacted 6" of what they referred to as "pit run" which was small cobble and crush, sand, etc., firmly vibratory compacted, then over-layed that with 4" of compacted road base, which was super smooth and hard before they overlayed that with 3" of asphalt.
It wasn't cheap, but I am sure it won't crack or sink.