Asphalt Shingle Roof Leaking

[65Stang]

So I replaced the roof on my house and garage about 5 years back. There is a carport connected to the house that the roof does not slope much at all as it comes off the adjacent roof. Tar paper went down before the shingles and all exposed roof nails were sealed. Now, after a good rain, I am getting about a dozen spot leaks, one fairly major. Going on the roof, I cannot see anything obvious, no exposed nail heads and I cannot pry up the shingles as they are sealed well. So, I am thinking that the roof is just getting saturated with water and it is weeping up the shingles to the nail heads and over time, creating leaks.

Any ideas on how to seal the roof that doesn't involve a new roof or removing the existing? Spray seal... anything?

 

[Kevin54]

You're pretty much **** out of luck if you don't have much slope. The water is siphoning back and coming in through a nail hole(s). About the only thing you can do is tear the shingles off, add ice guard that is a rubber membrane that is self sticking, then replace the roof. The Ice guard seals around the nail(s). Just about the only other alternative is to redo the roof completely and add a substantial pitch to it so water will not siphon back.

Or if you don't care what it looks like, get a 5 gallon bucket or two of roof trailer coating that has fiberglass in it and seal the roof that way

 

[Zeke]

This^^^^^^^^^ You need 3 in 12 min.

 

[IHI]

When you read the destructions on every single package, all of them will say not to be used on under a 3/12 pitch....for the exact reason your describing, the water wont drain properly, will back up under the shingles and cause problems.

Using ice guard is a band aid and your putting all your trust on the penetration seal as the nail gets driven through...not only that, but depending on your building department, the inspector should've made you tear that section off and use a proper rubber membrane as locally those are the only approved materials on low slope roofs since it's a 100% sealed surface with no penetrations.

Consider this an expensive and labor intensive lesson learned. by expensive I mean doing it right, sooner than later before the water wicking through does even more damage to the underlying plywood deck, rafters, soaks insulation rendering it useless, and obvious drywall/plaster damage inside the home which can and often will lead to a mold issue.

5 mintues of reading wold've saved you a bunch of time/money.

 

[65Stang]

Old house, removing roof really isn't a viable option at this time. Due to then pitch of the roof, the top really isn't visible which is why a sealing option may be preferred.

 

[bob15]

Tar paper went down before the shingles and all exposed roof nails were sealed.

Why do you have exposed nails? Or are they vent nails? Because it sounds like the roof was improperly installed if shingle nails are exposed. For water to weep up under the shingle, it would have to travel quite a distance (relatively speaking) in order to get a major leak, unless the nails are in the wrong spot.

Are these 3 tab shingles or architectural shingles?

How far up the roof are we talking? Or is it the starter course that is leaking?

bob

 

[awdblazer]

you need low slope roofing
it is rolled on with a torch

 

[IHI]

you need low slope roofing
it is rolled on with a torch

sounds like OP is keeping with the same wrong direction he went the first time and is trying to find a bigger band-aid.

 

[65Stang]

Thanks bud... IHI, you got the funds to help out, feel free, otherwise...

Regarding nails, a few were exposed during install and were sealed. Three tab roofing. Due to way house and carport was built 50 years ago, roof can't be pitched more. It is actually tied into the adjacent house roof, which is at a greater pitch.

Due to this being I the Pacific Northwest, the roof is wet and saturates for up to none months. Should have had better vapor barrier under the shingles.

 

[CNGsaves]

This is still GJ . . . . when asking for help it's ALWAYS better to SHOW us what you got. . . . . thus PICTURES !!

Here you go . . . . .you know the drill.

 

[CNGsaves]

If you have a flat roof . . . you have to use flat roof materials and not normal shingles.

Have to use ROLL ROOFING and heat-seal the seams with tar. Higher-end product is a giant membrane piece that doesn't have any seams (ie more like rubber).

Show us some pics . . . you'll get some useful info then.

 

[65Stang]

Yeah... At toy r us spending money I don't have... Wife priorities vary...

 

[IHI]

Thanks bud... IHI, you got the funds to help out, feel free, otherwise...

Regarding nails, a few were exposed during install and were sealed. Three tab roofing. Due to way house and carport was built 50 years ago, roof can't be pitched more. It is actually tied into the adjacent house roof, which is at a greater pitch.

Due to this being I the Pacific Northwest, the roof is wet and saturates for up to none months. Should have had better vapor barrier under the shingles.

Lol, listen I grew up in a construction family and had m business for touch over 20yrs...in all these yrs of doing construction and dealing with the public you learn there's three mentalities when trying to sell a job.
A. Those who understand paying a higher price for quality materials installed by a quality company will save them money down the road since they won't be redoing the job later and paying for the job twice...like you are now going to do.

B. The average working stiff like the majority of us who would love top teir but can't quite swing all top shelf stuff..yet understand where to save a little longer to put the money into areas thT count and areas that are harder and more expensive to redo if they skimped out

C. Folks like you that will spend $20 to save $1 and the dangerious part of thinking you know more than you do....which as you've seen now first hand is a big problem because you obviously didn't know you can't use any shingle on a low pitch roof and knew too much to dead over the manufacturers instructions and warnings right on every bundle...you had all the information right in front of you but knew too much to use it and now you have a major problem, come here asking for advice on whT to do when all you really want is the fastest cheapest band aid cobble job to help for the moment and not fix the root problem you caused yourself by being so experienced in the first place.

If your butthurt I called you like I see you, that's your problem...but you screwed up once and obviously have no intention of fixing it the right way...cuz by your admission it costs too much. Simple math that maybe could be a life lesson....what was the cost to do the job initally + cost of repairs from current damages + cost to redo it the right way? I can tell you from decades of real life experiences helping folks out like you...its a lot more expensive than if you'd have done the job right the first time.

My favorite quote when selling my higher prices "the only people that can afford to be cheap are rich people, they can afford to do it twice."

 

[Kevin54]

Yeah... At toy r us spending money I don't have... Wife priorities vary...

What's more important, the wife's priorities, or making your home waterproof?

Post up some pics of what you are dealing with and we as a whole may be able to help you out.

But one thing is, you have to face realities. If you have a roof that is almost flat, and you are using three tab shingles, you're screwed. A flat roof and three tabs don't go together. No if, and's, or but's. And with being in the Pacific Northwest and the amount of snow and/or rain, you're screwed.

Sometimes you just have to **** it up. spend some money, and have things done right. If you want to cut corners, then complain, there isn't much that can be done.

Maybe it's about time to speak with the wife about priorities.

 

[65Stang]

Sigh...

It is not leaking in my house, this is a carport.

We are buying a bed for my son so he has somewhere to sleep. The kennel is getting too small...

 

[RECox286]

Find some 5 gal pails on the curb. Take them home figuring that they will be the

cheapest "fix" until you get tired of emptying the pails, then hopefully you will get

back to doing it the way it should have been done when you did it in the first place.

I too am a self employed handyman who has done my share of low pitched roofs.

I'm not trying to be a wise-guy, just telling it like it is. You goofed, there is no easy

fix. Quit whining...

Uncle Bob

 

[CTyankee]

If you are going to take a band-aid approach , I'd strip it and go with some cheap rolled roofing before I'd try sealing up the shingles that are on there. It won't last forever but should keep for a few years. Flashing to the existing house roof shouldn't be a problem.

 

[CNGsaves]

That does have some slope so it's unusual that you have leaks.

Might be related to driving rain storms that pushes the water up under shingles and that's how it's leaking. With 3 tab shingles thare are lots of gaps where water could travel to where nail holes are located.

Worst case you could yank it off and put on roll roofing which is like 3 foot wide rolls of asphalt material which would do the trick. However, since a carport it's not critical just like you said.

I'd recommend you stick it out and just try to trace where leaks originate and go "gubber up" with roofing tar the underside of any shingles that have likelyhood of being leakers - - ie shingles that lift up, or blow up ; any exposed nails (which there really shouldn't be any).

Pray for big hail storm so you can replace!! However, I'd never use the bottom-line 3 tab shingles. Instead use the "Heritage" look (ie shake-look shingles that are thicker with 25 or 30 year warranty). Also, use 30 lb felt paper and not the cheap 15 lb felt paper.

 

[IHI]

That does have some slope so it's unusual that you have leaks.

Might be related to driving rain storms that pushes the water up under shingles and that's how it's leaking. With 3 tab shingles thare are lots of gaps where water could travel to where nail holes are located.

Worst case you could yank it off and put on roll roofing which is like 3 foot wide rolls of asphalt material which would do the trick. However, since a carport it's not critical just like you said.

I'd recommend you stick it out and just try to trace where leaks originate and go "gubber up" with roofing tar the underside of any shingles that have likelyhood of being leakers - - ie shingles that lift up, or blow up ; any exposed nails (which there really shouldn't be any).

Pray for big hail storm so you can replace!! However, I'd never use the bottom-line 3 tab shingles. Instead use the "Heritage" look (ie shake-look shingles that are thicker with 25 or 30 year warranty). Also, use 30 lb felt paper and not the cheap 15 lb felt paper.

Huh? That roof has just enough slope to say it has slope, 3 tab or architechtural shingles won't make a bit of difference on that thing. Felt paper will make no difference on that thing and for the record if you do your roof right there is no need for tar paper since it has zero water proofing qualities. It does not seal when nails are driven through it and then think of the thousands of holes your putting through tar paper when you shingle a roof.

So long as we're giving halfazzed advice and bandaid solutions, heck order that spray **** they have infomercoals about that seals the screen door on the bottom on the j on boat...yeah, that's a cheap and easy bandaid lol.

Epdm rubber membrane is the right material for this job for a long term solution. Roll roofing for a better than whT he has now that will only get worse as it starts rotting the plywood deck and possibly the rafter

And for what zits worth if he seez snow there, those rafters are undersized for the span even if they're 12"oc..but that's a whole nother hornets nezt

 

[65Stang]

Wow, guys, I am just asking some advice, taking it in, and will make the best decision for my situation. That decision will be on me. I appreciate ALL the advice given regardless, damn.

For what it is worth, the leaks as I called the are just some damp nails I can see in the plywood. One of them has dripped a few drops a few times, so no buckets needed.

I DO plan on replacing this section at some point, just not this year, if I don't torch the house first. Assuming my failing septic system doesn't go **** up sooner...

thank you all for the replies.

 

[RECox286]

"Fixer in a can" ? On 3 tab shingles ? It would cost more to spray that roof

than to cover it over with new shingles with Water N Ice shield under the whole

reroof. There is only one true way to fix this problem...rip it off and do it right.

Uncle Bob

 

[RECox286]

Wow, guys, I am just asking some advice, taking it in, and will make the best decision for my situation. That decision will be on me. I appreciate ALL the advice given regardless, damn.

For what it is worth, the leaks as I called the are just some damp nails I can see in the plywood. One of them has dripped a few drops a few times, so no buckets needed.

I DO plan on replacing this section at some point, just not this year, if I don't torch the house first. Assuming my failing septic system doesn't go **** up sooner...

thank you all for the replies.

Are you saying that you have a condensation problem, or a real leak ?

That will change things considerably if it is condensation. How long of

a nail did you use on the roof ? How much nail is visible underneath the

deck ? Is there evidence of wetness even when it doesn't rain ?

Inquiring minds want to know...

Uncle Bob

 

[65Stang]

It is a true leak. No moisture in dry weather and takes a while (days) for it to appear when it rains. I'd have to look at the nails, but just the tip or slightly more is visible.

Leak is probably the wrong term. Due to not enough slope, I have water weeping under shingles and saturating the plywood substrate. Not good any way you look at it since you can't spot fix.

 

[RECox286]

We had one particular job that had a shallow pitched roof over a front

porch. We double papered with 30# felt (it was before Water and Ice

shield was available) on a stagger, then reduced the tab to the weather.

Instead of 5" to wx, we used a 3" to wx pattern, and nailed a bit higher

than normal. Fortunately, the roof kept everything dry underneath.

That was almost 40 years ago, and the owner, whom we still do work

for just recently had a reroof due to the age of the shingles which were

starting to crumble. We turned down the job, we aren't intrested in

climbing any more...we're too old to be up off the ground !

Uncle Bob

 

[65Stang]

I believe I was fortunate that it didn't leak for the first five years. Especially considering the wind and rain drives right against the vert face of the shingles. Frickin' Pacific Northwest. Looking at the roofing, felt was used and a mineral guard, still not right system.

I wanted to postpone any major fix since we are adding a large front porch to the house and could do this at same time. But, that was supposed to be last summer, now this summer...

 

[Torque1st]

That does have some slope so it's unusual that you have leaks.

Might be related to driving rain storms that pushes the water up under shingles and that's how it's leaking. With 3 tab shingles thare are lots of gaps where water could travel to where nail holes are located.

However, I'd never use the bottom-line 3 tab shingles. Instead use the "Heritage" look (ie shake-look shingles that are thicker with 25 or 30 year warranty). Also, use 30 lb felt paper and not the cheap 15 lb felt paper.

It looks about like my carport. I have a 2/12 slope. Both the shingle bundles and manufacturers instructions listed a 2/12 slope as acceptable. However they did have some detailed installation instructions for low slope roofs. I also used the Grace Tri-flex instead of standard 30# felt.

I do have a couple leaks during driving summer rainstorms through the flashing between the roofs. I will work on those. I have them located.

I also have a bullet hole to fix thanks to some idiot New Years party person shooting in the air. I can see the base of the round.

 

[Alchymist]

Slap a tin roof on it - flash well to the upper roof.

 

[65Stang]

Slap a tin roof on it - flash well to the upper roof.

Actually have thought of that. Sorta same as a single sheet roofing system. Not as high quality as TPO or EDPM some may say. Of course, this carport looks to have been constructed by someone who probably didn't know which end of the hammer is supposed to hit the nail.

Hell, if I wanted to blend in to my neighborhood, I'd toss up a blue tarp, throw some rocks and spare tires on it to hold it down, and duct tape the seam. If I am still in this house in five years, I would be

 

[65Stang]

Well I'll be damned! I have a couple roof shingle bundles left over and the directions actually state that they can be used on slopes less than this carport. There are special instructions though, for felt and overlap, but we followed those. Eh, whatever, still not the right application for the situation.