Bellaireroad
Well-known member
Thx...what keeps the rivnut from spinning in the hole as it is tightened?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Astro Introduces Drill Adapters for Rivet Nuts and Pop Rivets
- Thread starter Astro_Pneumatic_Tools
- Start date
Thx...what keeps the rivnut from spinning in the hole as it is tightened?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
OP
Astro_Pneumatic_Tools
Well-known member
When setting a rivet nut?
Depends on the tool, but most of our tools (including this ADN14 Adapter) pull straight back without any rotation, so it's not really an issue that needs to be overcome.
Bellaireroad
Well-known member
Ahh..Ok. You mentioned the larger sized mandrels needed a more powerful drill, and that's why they were not included. What are the limits on the tool itself? Will it handle up to M10 and 3/8, or did you test to that size?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
OP
Astro_Pneumatic_Tools
Well-known member
It won't go up to 3/8"
Cope
Well-known member
Handles up to M6 and 1/4" I tried mine out on 1/4" with my DeWalt 20V Max drill, and it is fast.
kmacht
Well-known member
You should go pitch this tool to the experimental airplane crowd. Places like homebuiltairplanes.com, sonexbuilders.net or any of the kit planes that are built with pop rivets (the sonex has over 10,000 stainless pop rivets in it). Personally I used the cheap $20 harbor freight pneumatic pop riveter to assemble my plane but there are time when I was working without an air compressor near by that the tool would have come in handy.
Keith
Keith
Bellaireroad
Well-known member
Cope
Well-known member
IIRC, the tool is not the limiting factor, the drill is.
Recently picked up an ADN14 riv nut setter and I am loving it, but would also really like to pick up the M8 mandrel/nose piece that has been discussed. I can't seem to find it listed anywhere online. Chris - can you point me in the right direction?
wafrederick
Well-known member
Matco Tools have them as well,probally made by Astro Pnuematic
Ign
Well-known member
Ok so I put a fuel filter access panel in the inner fender of an LMM ('08 2500)
The provided push pins leave something to be desired and I think rivnuts would be awesome here.
I'd kinda prefer 10-32 'cause I do a ton of work w that size. We don't get a lot of rust so I'm not worried about fine threads seizing up.
Astro, can you recommend which rivnuts would work best on a plastic inner fender? Looking on Amazon it appears there are some "small flange" and "large flange". I'm guessing this is the OD of the flange? Or is it thickness? I'm sure larger OD is better in plastic?
Prefer to order thru Amazon if possible
The provided push pins leave something to be desired and I think rivnuts would be awesome here.
I'd kinda prefer 10-32 'cause I do a ton of work w that size. We don't get a lot of rust so I'm not worried about fine threads seizing up.
Astro, can you recommend which rivnuts would work best on a plastic inner fender? Looking on Amazon it appears there are some "small flange" and "large flange". I'm guessing this is the OD of the flange? Or is it thickness? I'm sure larger OD is better in plastic?
Prefer to order thru Amazon if possible
OP
Astro_Pneumatic_Tools
Well-known member
jabberwoki
Well-known member
Professional Tool User
Well-known member
I purchased the blind rivet one but haven't had much luck with it. I've tried using it a couple of times but it won't eject the rivet needle.
OP
Astro_Pneumatic_Tools
Well-known member
If this happens in the very first few rivets sets, grease in the adapter can be stopping the stem from falling out from gravity and tapping the side of the adapter against a surface can remove it.
Make sure the nosepiece and front tube/bushing are screwed all the way down.
If it keeps happening, check the length of the rivet body is not longer than the tool can set. Or use the next nose-piece size up if not already setting max size.
Some people setting aluminum rivets see this issue as rivet material builds up to gunk up the nose-peice exit. Traditional rivets fall out the back so dont mind it, but these having to expel out the front get stopped by any soft material left around the nose-piece hole.
A test you could do to see if it's actually jammed our just not falling out from gravity (all stems look jammed once you take the nosepiece off as the jaws will sinch it), you could set a rivet with the flange not flat against the nosepiece, leave a 1/16"-1/8" gap or so. That way when setting the rivet and returning the stem forward, you'll have enough exposed out of the tool to grab with your hands. If it comes out easy when exposed, some grease is likely gunking it up.
Mr Ratchet
Well-known member
The rivet attachment looks way too slow for my liking. I'll just stick with my hand operated rivet guns.
The rivnut attachment looks good though. Reminds me of the days when I used an ARO TSN rivnut/threaded insert gun. https://www.ebay.com/p/ARO-AVK-AKPT6P616-Model-8517-3-8-16-Thread-600-RPM/1628639354. Those things worked great and were fast.
The rivnut attachment looks good though. Reminds me of the days when I used an ARO TSN rivnut/threaded insert gun. https://www.ebay.com/p/ARO-AVK-AKPT6P616-Model-8517-3-8-16-Thread-600-RPM/1628639354. Those things worked great and were fast.
OP
