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Astro Pneumatic Tool Company

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Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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BTW, forgive me if this has been brought up before but I was just wondering if you had any plans to market any cordless tools like impact wrenches, ratchets, etc. like Milwaukee or Dewalt have in their 12V or 18V/20V platforms? I know you have a cordless orbital polisher but that's not quite what I'm talking about.

I'm also curious if you managed to fill that position you advertised for a couple of years ago. I'm not applying but at the time it intrigued me since I believe I was nominally qualified for it. I even had the required college degree and I already live in the Los Angeles area except I'm retired, too old and, therefore, not really a good candidate. :)

No plans to get into cordless power tools at the moment, I feel there are already fairly high quality, decent priced accessible options already on the market.

We did indeed fill the position:beer:
 
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KZOC

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The UPS guy wasn't happy he had to carry this to the porch. Thanks Chris for the info on this set Chris. It seems pretty stout.

The 78825 kit arrived Sunday. This, a SMA video, and a rental slide hammer from AZ let me knock out a rear wheel bearing on an 06 CR-V. Saved me $500 vs the dealer!

Thanks for the quality tools!
 

anndel

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Hey Chris, Is there a delay getting these Astro Pneumatic Tool 78314 Metric 3/8” Drive Low Profile Nano Impact Sockets? I ordered a set from Amazon but it's been a month now and they don't have a delivery estimate yet. Looks like it's been out for over a month. I need them for an upcoming project next month, is there a reputable seller you can recommend? Thanks
 
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Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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Hey Chris, Is there a delay getting these Astro Pneumatic Tool 78314 Metric 3/8” Drive Low Profile Nano Impact Sockets? I ordered a set from Amazon but it's been a month now and they don't have a delivery estimate yet. Looks like it's been out for over a month. I need them for an upcoming project next month, is there a reputable seller you can recommend? Thanks

Apologize for that. We've been making these as fast as we can to keep up but we've been out of stock previously and are currently so they may be hard to track down at the moment.

We have a small shipment due in about 10 days, and another larger shipment due in about 20 that should help a lot.
 

anndel

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Apologize for that. We've been making these as fast as we can to keep up but we've been out of stock previously and are currently so they may be hard to track down at the moment.

We have a small shipment due in about 10 days, and another larger shipment due in about 20 that should help a lot.

Thanks Chris... Amazon sent me an email update and asked if I wanted to wait or cancel the order so I just click "WAIT."
 

milwaukeephil

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New Berlin
Hi Chris,
There are a bunch of Chinese 21 piece ball joint press kits all over eBay for $70. I've used a few before and had problems with the c frame bending and the cups mushrooming. When I look at your 7897 kit, it looks identical -- same exact case, same layout, same adapters and cups, etc. Not to put you on the spot, but how is yours different besides the color of the case?
 
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Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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Hi Chris,
There are a bunch of Chinese 21 piece ball joint press kits all over eBay for $70. I've used a few before and had problems with the c frame bending and the cups mushrooming. When I look at your 7897 kit, it looks identical -- same exact case, same layout, same adapters and cups, etc. Not to put you on the spot, but how is yours different besides the color of the case?

That's a great question

They look the same because they are copying the current best selling set in the US, ours:bounce: We're working on changing the case to a smaller form factor to make them have to catch up again.

Mainly the difference is two things:

#1 Cups and plates are made out of a hardened steel rather than just some cut down DOM tubing. So it's still possible to chowder up an adapter if you're not careful, I still do sometimes, but a lot less likely.

#2 The C-Frame from beginning of 2017 on is our own friction forged alloy that to my knowledge no one else is using and it will support an unholy amount of force. I can't say exactly what its rated for now, but you could essentially hang a full loaded 18-wheeler from one and not reach its rating. It should match or best anything directly comparable available anywhere. While our pre-2017 didn't use this alloy it was still a friction forged high carbon steel and bested every other set that looked like it that we tested at the time. And we had no warranty problem with the item when we updated it. We change the c-frame every few years to stay ahead of modern impact wrenches.

If you look at the wording or call these brands selling other kits you get a lot of wacky or vague answers about what their c-frame is made of, what its rated at or how its made. I've heard "forged iron" and "pressed steel."
 
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MoonRise

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snap review of my Astro 4901 air hammer (little brother of BigNasty :lol: ) :

+ nice fit and finish

+ not a complete air hog

+ hits pretty hard

- hits hard enough to break the included Astro ripper hammer bit on the first use. Not bend, but actually snap off the middle snaggle-tooth while using it to remove some exhaust pieces. Like the muffler from the tail pipe, the muffler from the cat, the cat from the exhaust Y-pipe, the broken piece of the Y-pipe that was stuck in the end of the intake of the cat pipe. Not really a mark on the rest of the bit, just snapped off that middle tooth.

(I think I need to get an actual hammer bit for it too. :lol: For non-exhaust tasks.)

all in all, I like the tool.
 

metaleltr

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Astro 3037 belt sander

I have an Astro 3037 1/2x18 belt sander.

Works great just wondering if it is normal for the cylindrical housing on the right side of the tool to get quite hot in use?

It seems to have always done it under heavy-ish use. I've oiled it more than normal when I notice it happening.
 

Mgnu

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Valley of the Sun, AZ
That's a great question

They look the same because they are copying the current best selling set in the US, ours:bounce: We're working on changing the case to a smaller form factor to make them have to catch up again.

Mainly the difference is two things:

#1 Cups and plates are made out of a hardened steel rather than just some cut down DOM tubing. So it's still possible to chowder up an adapter if you're not careful, I still do sometimes, but a lot less likely.

Chris - any chance you guys would release a socket adapter set of cups/plates similar to what tiger tools does? That would open up a ton of interesting options for an already kick **** product. I would buy another!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M054HW4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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snap review of my Astro 4901 air hammer (little brother of BigNasty :lol: ) :

+ nice fit and finish

+ not a complete air hog

+ hits pretty hard

- hits hard enough to break the included Astro ripper hammer bit on the first use. Not bend, but actually snap off the middle snaggle-tooth while using it to remove some exhaust pieces. Like the muffler from the tail pipe, the muffler from the cat, the cat from the exhaust Y-pipe, the broken piece of the Y-pipe that was stuck in the end of the intake of the cat pipe. Not really a mark on the rest of the bit, just snapped off that middle tooth.

(I think I need to get an actual hammer bit for it too. :lol: For non-exhaust tasks.)

all in all, I like the tool.

Agreed that the 4901 seems to kill its own bits. There's other bits I prefer over the provided.


I have an Astro 3037 1/2x18 belt sander.

Works great just wondering if it is normal for the cylindrical housing on the right side of the tool to get quite hot in use?

It seems to have always done it under heavy-ish use. I've oiled it more than normal when I notice it happening.


Shouldn't be much of a problem if you don't see other symptoms. If it get VERY hot to the touch, we could take a look at it and see what's going on. Consider your tool warranty-able from this point forward since you've mentioned this to us and basically use it until something bad happens :bounce:


Chris - any chance you guys would release a socket adapter set of cups/plates similar to what tiger tools does? That would open up a ton of interesting options for an already kick **** product. I would buy another!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M054HW4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

We've considered it. It will depend on the success of a new Goliath C-frame press we're coming out with soon.
 

ptgarcia

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Hello Chris, I have a question regarding your #1423 13" Heavy Duty Hand Riveter. I apparently have some odd-ball rivets supplied with some parts that have an over-sized mandrel (6-4 rivet with 0.128" mandrel). Does the #1423 have a nose piece that can accommodate this rivet? If not, how do I go about getting a replacement 3/16" nose piece that I can drill out for the over-sized mandrel?

I appreciate any help you can give. Thanks!
 
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Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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Hello Chris, I have a question regarding your #1423 13" Heavy Duty Hand Riveter. I apparently have some odd-ball rivets supplied with some parts that have an over-sized mandrel (6-4 rivet with 0.128" mandrel). Does the #1423 have a nose piece that can accommodate this rivet? If not, how do I go about getting a replacement 3/16" nose piece that I can drill out for the over-sized mandrel?

I appreciate any help you can give. Thanks!


Just use the 1/4" nosepiece (0.150" mandrel size), it should fit that mandrel size and still work fine.

FYI drilling out the nosepiece to a larger size doesn't change the nose-piece size. The nosepiece would still only separate the pulling jaws to accept the original size after it was drilled. Nosepieces are the size they are labeled based on their hole size and length, the length spreads the jaws to accept that mandrel diameter.
 

ptgarcia

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Just use the 1/4" nosepiece (0.150" mandrel size), it should fit that mandrel size and still work fine.

FYI drilling out the nosepiece to a larger size doesn't change the nose-piece size. The nosepiece would still only separate the pulling jaws to accept the original size after it was drilled. Nosepieces are the size they are labeled based on their hole size and length, the length spreads the jaws to accept that mandrel diameter.


Excellent! I'll order the 1423 and give the 1/4" nose piece a go. :thumbup:
 

2ndGearRubber

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- hits hard enough to break the included Astro ripper hammer bit on the first use. Not bend, but actually snap off the middle snaggle-tooth while using it to remove some exhaust pieces. Like the muffler from the tail pipe, the muffler from the cat, the cat from the exhaust Y-pipe, the broken piece of the Y-pipe that was stuck in the end of the intake of the cat pipe. Not really a mark on the rest of the bit, just snapped off that middle tooth.

(I think I need to get an actual hammer bit for it too. :lol: For non-exhaust tasks.)

all in all, I like the tool.




Try AJAX, best luck I've had so far for bits. FWIW: that style of ripper will almost always fail at the middle tooth.
 

ptgarcia

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Just use the 1/4" nosepiece (0.150" mandrel size), it should fit that mandrel size and still work fine.

FYI drilling out the nosepiece to a larger size doesn't change the nose-piece size. The nosepiece would still only separate the pulling jaws to accept the original size after it was drilled. Nosepieces are the size they are labeled based on their hole size and length, the length spreads the jaws to accept that mandrel diameter.


The Astro 1423 riveter arrived yesterday and I was able to get those rivets set quick and easy. Thanks for the help!
 

doojus

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Dec 10, 2014
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Any idea if this fits 2013+ RAM Cummins trucks?

Astro 78585 Universal Radiator Pressure Tester and Vacuum Type Cooling System Kit
 

jumbojak

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Chris, I'm wondering what the difference is between your blue handed die grinders and the black "onyx" die grinders? I have your 3" cutoff tool on the way but need some die grinders and am debating between your 219 kit and the 1221.
 
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Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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Chris, I'm wondering what the difference is between your blue handed die grinders and the black "onyx" die grinders? I have your 3" cutoff tool on the way but need some die grinders and am debating between your 219 kit and the 1221.

Blue die grinders are mini die grinders, 1/4HP. Plastic body with an aluminum cylinder. The ONYX die grinders are standard size 1/3HP angle and 1/2HP straight. Aluminum body with rubberized composite over-mold. Same internals as our T20AH and T210 which we sell hundreds of thousands of to industrial and manufacturing accounts. So quite a long expected life.
 

theoldwizard1

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I love my 2182 carbide burrs ! They work great !!

What is the difference between the 2181 and the 2182 ?
 
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jumbojak

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Blue die grinders are mini die grinders, 1/4HP. Plastic body with an aluminum cylinder. The ONYX die grinders are standard size 1/3HP angle and 1/2HP straight. Aluminum body with rubberized composite over-mold. Same internals as our T20AH and T210 which we sell hundreds of thousands of to industrial and manufacturing accounts. So quite a long expected life.

Thanks Chris, I'll probably be getting the ONYX set in the not too distant future.
 
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