Asymmetric lift for 10'-6" Ceiling

[reb162]

I'm planning out my garage for my new home that is in construction. I plan to install a lift and after much research I'm fairly sure that I'm going to want an asymmetric, clear floor lift. The problem being that my garage ceiling height is only 10'6" and most of these types of lifts require another foot or so. Before everyone tells me I should have built the ceiling higher...I know...but it is a spec house and not a custom build so I'm stuck.

So far, the only lift that meets my needs (Asymmetric and fit in 10'6") is the Mohawk A7, but at over $5,000, its a little out of my price range...my max is $2500 with below $2000 preferable.

Other than major roof modifications, does anyone know of any other asymmetric lifts out there that would fit?

If I'm forced to go with a symmetric lift, what do you think the impact to me will be as I have two front wheel drive vehicles that I work on a lot and a jeep as well.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[SteveU]

Have you thought about a 4 post or a mid rise scissor lift? The Mohawks are the only full size 2 post lifts that I have run across that would fit into your space but then they are pricey unless you could find a good used one. There has also been a lot of discussion on the Max-jack which looks like it would be great for places a full size lift won't fit.

 

[reb162]

I'll have to check out the max jack....I'm not sure that one is asymmetric or that the lift height will be high enough. I'm wanting to stay away from the four post lifts...I do way too much wheel work and work on middle underside of jeep to have to worry about the limited access. I have looked at some direct lift 2 post lifts that sit at about 9'3" but they do not appear to be asymmetric and are not clear bottom, but they are affordable and would give me the height I'm looking for. Just not sure what the impact of not having the asymmetric would be as this is my first lift.

 

[Nutty 5.0]

Being you're somewhat limited, I would stick with what few options you have with the non-assymetric lift and floorplate. You'll still be able to use the lift but will have to be careful.

But I will say this: I'd do everything you can to get that ceiling to 12' even if you have to have the roof modified. You may be suprised and will be much happier in the long run. My $.02.

 

[JSK]

Reb,

Asymmetric is really only good for one thing - to give the doors more opening clearance when exiting entering the vehicle, especially when considering narrow drive-thru lifts. If you are not space conscious and could go for a wider footprint two-post, then a regular symmetric set up should work just fine. And in many cases, regular symmetric arm configurations will offer more versatile arm positioning. You would then consider a base plate or floor plate model. Although the hump on the floor may be a little bit of a turnoff, you really have little choice due to the ceiling height.

JSK

 

[bazzateer]

Would it be possible to cut into the slab and mount the lift and the 'hump' a few inches below floor level thus eradicating the inconvenience of the 'hump' ???

 

[reb162]

Bazzateer, interesting idea. I hadn't thought of that. Actually, if I were to go to the trouble of digging the garage, I would go deep enough to enable myself to get a taller asymmetric lift without the floor plate. This would also enable me to just dig two holes for each post....no need to dig across between posts for the floor plate. I'm going to have a 4" slab, so I would have to dig through that and then go another 18 inches to bring the effective height for the lift to 12' . This would result in the posts being mounted on 4" of concrete and recessed 18" into the garage. Wonder if that would work?

I'll most likely just get a symmetric lift that fits though...I do not want to even see my wife's face when I tell her I'm going to cut and dig up our new garage.

JSK,
I'm not too worried about the door thing with a symmetric lift..I've been able to maintain my "youthful figure" to date and can **** in my beer gut to get in and out of the car. My real concern would be if I'm going to have issues trying to balance front wheel drive cars on a symmetric lift?

 

[54stude]

Do the trusses in the garage go the correct way to put the top part of the hoist between two trusses? If so, you can save 6" of usable space by doing that.

If you lower the safety switch 12", then you are good to go.

You lose one foot of lifting space, but I think that is a good compromise. Especially if you mostly lift cars as opposed to a van for instance.

 

[reb162]

Hmmm. That would be easier than cutting concrete and digging and would avoid any gaping holes in the garage floor. From the below picture and video, you can see the ceiling joists run from the front of the garage to the back. However, I'm thinking there is enough space between joists that I could pop each side of the lift into a cutout (the ceiling is drywalled and insulated) and then install the top cross piece from the attic access where it would essentially be above the joists. Then I just would have to seal up around the posts for insulating purposes. This is assuming that the top piece is installed separately and is light enough to get up in the attic. Does anyone with assembly experience on a top connected lift know if this would be possible? Specifically, I'm thinking like the Bend PAk XPR 10.

 

[54stude]

On the two hoists I have helped to install what you are describing would work fine. The stop switch needs to be mounted below the ceiling level, but it would not be too hard to make brackets to do this.

 

[reb162]

Man, I gotta stop reading this forum...its costing me too much money! Now I've got myself thinking about what it would take to modify the roof trusses to get to a 12 foot ceiling in the third bay where the lift will be. Problem is the garage will be completely finished when I move in and I hate like hell to tear it up right away. I may just go with the lift posts sticking up through drywall and over the trusses until I have more time and money to maybe change the trusses.

 

[Bomer]

I have a 10' 6" ceiling in my garage as well. I went with the Bend Pak SP-7X scissor lift. It is a bit more expensive but it is a great lift and my car's roof is right at the ceiling when the lift is all the way up. The down side is that you have to park a car on the lift (my race car parks on the lift) but the upside is that there are not any posts in the garage.

 

[hook982]

uh....being you're having this garage built, why didn't you just build it with a 12' ceiling???

 

[reb162]

Its an attached 3 car garage to a new build home. The home how ever is a spec build by Ryan Homes, not a custom build which means you have some options you can choose but as far as the structural and major design, its all spec..i.e no changes. Its a cost tradeoff between a custom home and a tract builder.....they can build cheaper because they build more homes then custom homes, but they get that cost efficiency by being consistant and not varying the house much.

 

[SteveU]

I would run the figures both ways between getting a Mohawk vs having to modify your building, you might find that it costs more to modify your structure than the difference between whatever taller lift & a Mohawk would be. Have a great holiday weekend

 

[nate379]

I would have looked into doing scissor trusses to open the garage ceiling up. Pretty much too late now though... without adding a ton into the cost anyhow.

11' ceiling is really not high enough for a lift IMO. Figure ave truck is 7' tall. That means you can only lift it about 4ft. Ok for tires I suppose but you will be on your knees for anything else.

 

[Notch1988]

11' ceiling is really not high enough for a lift IMO. Figure ave truck is 7' tall. That means you can only lift it about 4ft. Ok for tires I suppose but you will be on your knees for anything else.

I don't know why people think this way with a 2 post lift. With a 4 post, absolutely. But with a 2 post the taller vehicle just means my lift rises farther before it touches the vehicle and lifts it. From floor pan to roof is all that matters with a two post, doesn't matter if the truck has 12" of lift and 38" tires.