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Athol swivel base

doscazadores

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Feb 18, 2013
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I have an old Athol 624 1/2 vise with a swivel base. How does one separate the swivel base from the static jaw structure? And in anticipation that it involves the slotted disk on the underside, now much will something like PB Blaster help that process along? It's well rusted under there.
I've been through the vise repair thread and didn't find anything but I will admit to being rather impatient in my senior age and may have just overlooked it. And if it's there I'm sorry for inquiring about something that's obvious to everyone but me or just plain obvious by looking at the vise!
 
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BillK

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How about a picture ? I just refurbed our old "no name" vise at the shop and I think all I had to do was unscrew the two swivel locking handles and the top came right off. I haven't bolted it back to the bench so I can look for sure in the morning.
 

matt_i

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I have not had the Athol vise apart, but I have had the Starrett vise apart. I believe they are cousins or brothers or father-and-son but not quite sure on the relationship.

Pretty simple, there are two threaded studs for the clamping/locking.

Then the center post is threaded into the body, at least on mine, accessible from underneath the swivel base. So you have to loosen the center post. I recall it having a thin hex head. Can be kind of a pain to get back in as the large diameter of the post also seats in the vise body and so the two have to align somewhat precisely. It isn't just held in there on the minor diameter of the screw thread.
 

jimreed2160

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If there is lots of rust, soak everything good with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or some other solvent. I have soaked vises for months, so be patient and don't break stuff.

To separate the base, first remove the lock nut on the base. That is the one with the rod. Then turn the vise over and remove the center screw. Unless you have Godzilla's screwdriver you will need to make something. I used a piece of steel stock held by a vise grip. You could probably use two quarters held in a C clamp. Once you unscrew the bolt, the static will jump off the base.

Good luck.
 
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doscazadores

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If there is lots of rust, soak everything good with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or some other solvent. I have soaked vises for months, so be patient and don't break stuff.

To separate the base, first remove the lock nut on the base. That is the one with the rod. Then turn the vise over and remove the center screw. Unless you have Godzilla's screwdriver you will need to make something. I used a piece of steel stock held by a vise grip. You could probably use two quarters held in a C clamp. Once you unscrew the bolt, the static will jump off the base.

Good luck.

Thanks, everyone, especially jimreed2160. Before reading your idea about removing the center screw I welded a (too long as it turns out) piece of 1/8" mild steel to a 12" bar and used that: and succeeded only in distorting the 1/8" steel. Gonna have to make it shorter and harden it to see if that helps.
But not before letting the PB Blaster have some time down in there.

Have more questions but enough now. Thanks again.
 

jimreed2160

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Sounds like you are on the right track. I forgot to add tapping. Get a brass rod or brass hammer and tap the screw frequently. Tapping, NOT BASHING. Just light little taps all around the stuck parts. It gives you something else to do while you are waiting and it serves notice on the rust. Spray, tap, wait. Repeat.
 

jimreed2160

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Patience. Just keep your eye on the prize. In the meantime, here is some eye candy.

DSCN0663.jpg


DSCN0664.jpg


This is my Athol 614 1/2. It was not rusty on arrival, but it was as greasy as a Christmas ham. It was so dirty and greasy that I began the cleanup by pressure washing the parts in the yard. But it ended well and I love using the vise.
 

Fastfish

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Mar 5, 2014
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North Central MA
Interesting. no comments about the vice, but Starrett is in Athol MA. Visited Starrett once and it is a cool old company. The folks who work there really take pride in their jobs. Not common at all with other companies I have worked with
 
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doscazadores

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Patience. Just keep your eye on the prize. In the meantime, here is some eye candy.

This is my Athol 614 1/2. It was not rusty on arrival, but it was as greasy as a Christmas ham. It was so dirty and greasy that I began the cleanup by pressure washing the parts in the yard. But it ended well and I love using the vise.

I have my dad's, who was a tool & die maker, and it's in terrific condition. Not as pretty as yours though. :)

I bought this one just to clean up and put in good working condition as possible for a son-in-law. It's been beat on pretty hard. The outer sides of both jaws, especially the dynamic of course, look like someone might as well have done it deliberately they're so garfed up. But operates reasonably well.
I have used a lead hammer on that monster screw because it's very soft and I don't bang on it. If I don't get anywhere with it I'm going to dump the whole static part in a bucket of kerosene and let it stew for a few weeks at least, then revisit.

New Question: What is the set screw for located at the base of the static?
 

EOC_Jason

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The "slotted disc" is a big bolt with a slotted end. For a few vises I worked on I found a small piece of angle iron that fit in the slot snug and welded that to a large nut. Then I used an impact gun to work the bolt free...
 
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meatsis

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The "slotted disc" is a big bolt with a slotted end. For a few vises I worked on I found a small piece of angle iron that fit in the slot snug and welded that to a large nut. Then I used an impact gun to work the bolt free...



Or you can just use a drag link socket. That's what I always use. Works perfectly.
 

8man

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Oct 16, 2013
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Bryan, Texas
I did an Athol restore like the one in the pic. I soaked the whole thing in diesel for a week before I started. Then I went to the Sili Kroil to help break stuff free. I used a hand held impact driver and broke 2 flat blade tips before it broke free. Then I found that set screw. Remove it and it's a lot easier.

I found some parts from guys on here to replace a couple that were too far gone. Good luck.
 
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doscazadores

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Don't forget to remove the set screw that locks the central swivel bolt.

Figured it out - quite process of elimination and a little luck.

Want to next figure out why it makes so much internal noise when cranking out the moving jaw. Sounds like it's very loose, almost like the central screw is too small in diameter and is bouncing around in there.
Any thoughts??
 

excelsisba

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Atlanta, GA
Figured it out - quite process of elimination and a little luck.

Want to next figure out why it makes so much internal noise when cranking out the moving jaw. Sounds like it's very loose, almost like the central screw is too small in diameter and is bouncing around in there.
Any thoughts??

Can you post a photo of where the set screw is? I've got a 623 swivel base and cannot get the large screw out to separate the base from the static jaw.
 
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doscazadores

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The set screw location. Sorry about orientation of the pic. My Mac has its own ideas about such things. (And the pic doesn't appear in the post preview screen so let's see about this.)
 

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TSR9215

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Sep 13, 2019
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Texas
I posted in the "parts swap" thread already, but I'll add here too in case someone searches "Athol Swivel Base" and finds this thread. I have a Athol 624 1/2 that is missing the swivel base and all accompanying parts. I know its a long shot, but if there's a broken 624 1/2 out there somewhere sitting in a scrap pile (broken slide, screw, jaw, whatever) that has a good swivel base...I'd be interested in those parts to help my restoration and keep one more vintage vise in service. Thanks.
 

matt_i

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Codeman, can you post some pics?

The casting is essentially unrepairable unless one goes for a solution like machining a new internally threaded ring and figure out how to attach the ring to the casting...usually a bolt pattern of some sort.

The screw would be fixable by machining a new one.

Sometimes...the external thread can be cleaned up with something like a triangular needle file that fits into the external thread and focus on removing burrs and galled metal that's obviously in the way of the thread form.

There are taps & dies once you figure out/measure the correct threadform but those do get expensive. But one gains in speed.
 
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