Atic / Loft hoist

[JCQuick]

Anyone else out there pick up one of these new attic / loft lifts that are on the market today I need some help to decide how to hang it

 

[NUTTSGT]

Looks about like the one I saw a Youtuber install in his shop as a hoist to the attic. Let me see if I can find the video.


EDIT: here it is, "Built by Sam" guy put a lot of thought into this build.

 

[JCQuick]

OK I bought 1 and just want to run my wounting i dear past you five folks. i have a 10ft section of super strut, the rollers that attach to the hoist, some l brackets i got form HD in the super strut section. The strut hangers came with the rollers.

now for my idea. take a 12" 2x4 screw it to bottom trust 2x then drill a hole through dobled to x4 and attach L bracket viasingle bolt or 2 lag bolts. then mount hanger to L brkt withbotlt and nut 5/8 or 3/4 do this across 4 trusses so that i have strut in the fot to unload /load and about the same amout in the shop area. Yes I have vauled ceiling truss's

 

[JCQuick]

Looks about like the one I saw a Youtuber install in his shop as a hoist to the attic. Let me see if I can find the video.


EDIT: here it is, "Built by Sam" guy put a lot of thought into this build.

There are a ton of videos on installing these mine is a smaller one 440lbs mas most i will use it for ia a VW air cooled long block about 200lbs

 

[mike93lx]

How much weight are you expecting to lift with this?

Looks like our posts crossed paths.

 

[NUTTSGT]

There are a ton of videos on installing these mine is a smaller one 440lbs mas most i will use it for ia a VW air cooled long block about 200lbs

Sit down and watch that video and a few other related videos he has about this build. I'm going to guess, he'll answer most of your questions.

 

[JCQuick]

How much weight are you expecting to lift with this?

Looks like our posts crossed paths.

about 200lbs at most

 

[JCQuick]

Sit down and watch that video and a few other related videos he has about this build. I'm going to guess, he'll answer most of your questions.

I will do that

 

[KenB]

Here’s a really old thread featuring my stairwell solution using a similar hoist from Harbor Freight.

Simple hoist for upstairs/downstairs loads

I'm new here and have spent several hours learning cool ideas, tips and tricks. I'm looking forward to using them in my new 30x40', 2-story pole barn. The contractor is just now preparing to form the floor and lay the PEX tubing. Meanwhile, lots of things need to be stored upstairs and I...

www.garagejournal.com

Ken

 

[JCQuick]

Those are all real good but I'm doing a trolly system to roll out and back in

 

[zendriver]

I just purchased one of those maybe not that exact one

I plan on hooking it up to trolley rollers and use a uni strut rail

 

[racecougar]

OK I bought 1 and just want to run my wounting i dear past you five folks. i have a 10ft section of super strut, the rollers that attach to the hoist, some l brackets i got form HD in the super strut section. The strut hangers came with the rollers.

now for my idea. take a 12" 2x4 screw it to bottom trust 2x then drill a hole through dobled to x4 and attach L bracket viasingle bolt or 2 lag bolts. then mount hanger to L brkt withbotlt and nut 5/8 or 3/4 do this across 4 trusses so that i have strut in the fot to unload /load and about the same amout in the shop area. Yes I have vauled ceiling truss's

I did my best to follow that, so let me know if this is what you're envisioning (in green below).

A 12-foot (not inch) long 2"x4" screwed to the bottom chord of four trusses. Either thru-bolt or lag bolt four "L" brackets to the 2"x4" to attach the hangers for the unistrut.

IMO, both the hardware and the mounting are awfully light duty for 440# hoisting capability. What is the bottom chord rating of your trusses? Have you considered placing the support member (the 2"x4" in this case) atop the bottom chord rather than screwed into the bottom chord from beneath? Understand that while it may seem that the load is spread out across the unistrut evenly, that is not the case. You will see significant point loading wherever the hoist is along the track.

 

[JCQuick]

I just purchased one of those maybe not that exact one

I plan on hooking it up to trolley rollers and use a uni strut rail

Thats what I'm doing just need a way to mount it

 

[JCQuick]

I did my best to follow that, so let me know if this is what you're envisioning (in green below).

A 12-foot (not inch) long 2"x4" screwed to the bottom chord of four trusses. Either thru-bolt or lag bolt four "L" brackets to the 2"x4" to attach the hangers for the unistrut.

IMO, both the hardware and the mounting are awfully light duty for 440# hoisting capability. What is the bottom chord rating of your trusses? Have you considered placing the support member (the 2"x4" in this case) atop the bottom chord rather than screwed into the bottom chord from beneath? Understand that while it may seem that the load is spread out across the unistrut evenly, that is not the case. You will see significant point loading wherever the hoist is along the track.

your close . Yes i did mean 12 inch not feet just to double up the lower cord thickness wish and the most it will ever lift is right at 200 lbs

 

[racecougar]

your close . Yes i did mean 12 inch not feet just to double up the lower cord thickness wish and the most it will ever lift is right at 200 lbs

I would advise against this plan. U-bolting or placing your support member above the bottom chord would at least be a step in the right direction as opposed to thru-bolting or lagging to the bottom chord. That said, again, what is the bottom chord load rating of your trusses?

I would also ditch the "L" brackets, as those pictured are sure to bend under load.

 

[manwithtools]

Take a look at this post. You can ignore the part about the Grabo. It might give you some ideas. My trusses are storage trusses so have a higher load rating on the bottom cord. I'll make no claim as to how suitable your situation or mine is to installing a hoist. BTW, these hoists are nothing new, being wireless is a recent welcomed advancement however.

There is no need for the L-Brackets.

Ceiling Mounted Gantry and Hoist

 

[Codyboy]

Does that nameplate indicate it is 220V and 50Hz ?

 

[manwithtools]

Does that nameplate indicate it is 220V and 50Hz ?

It's a stock photo. They are readily available at 120V / 60hz.

 

[JCQuick]

Does that nameplate indicate it is 220V and 50Hz ?

no its 110 I think the 220 is the model # iys lifts 220lbs or double it up 440 the heavtest thing i will lift is a VW long block which weighs about 180lbs

 

[JCQuick]

yes that pic is from amazon

 

[driftpin]

"Is there another "t" in that title, Ryan Seacrest?"

I used one of those (a HFT 2000 lbs rated, never going to lift 1/4 of that) to make a jib crane in my loft.

Elevator Thread

I didn't find an elevator thread upon searching. So here it goes. Anyone build an elevator to a loft or attic that they want to show off? I'm thinking that I should have made my loft larger, and plan to expand it this winter in my shop. But heavier stuff may deserve an elevator instead of my...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[BurtEggley]

adding a hoist is the easy part. Making sure the ceiling will support it is the hard part unless it is a new structure where the loading can be spec'd. For 200 lbs, I'd just buy a used engine hoist. That is what I use for a porsche engine. Lift it up from the engine jack to the engine stand. When done roll the engine jack and stand to the area they are stored. For the record, while a VW engine might be light, add on the pistons, cylinders, heads, tin, shroud, exhaust, all the brackets, generator or alternator, engine mounts, flywheel and clutch, and it is going over 200 lbs. The porsche engine fully dressed is about 650 lbs. As to a VW short block, I lift those by hand.

 

[zendriver]

Thats what I'm doing just need a way to mount it

Sorry, I should have read all of the posts.

IMI, you are on the right track (no pun n intended). I'll probably use those track hangers maybe with u-bolts to the truss chords. I know there is much hand wringing about that here, but I'm 200# and I can hang from one and to does not even move. A 12GA Unistrut supposedly has little flex, so a length should distribute the load as needed.

Funny, people used to pull V8 engines with hoists hanging from tree limbs or 4x4" across truss chords, If it looked (or sounded) like it was starting to sag, reinforce or figure something else out. It was done all of the time, before everybody had a Chinese engine hoist.

200# from where you are thinking? I might, but if it all falls on your head

 

[BurtEggley]

and there was a time when lumber had less knots and 2x4s were 2" x 4" . Lots of one car garages too, which roofs are stronger. Now we have minimally engineered trusses made from less quality lumber.

 

[Codyboy]

Sorry, I should have read all of the posts.

IMI, you are on the right track (no pun n intended). I'll probably use those track hangers maybe with u-bolts to the truss chords. I know there is much hand wringing about that here, but I'm 200# and I can hang from one and to does not even move. A 12GA Unistrut supposedly has little flex, so a length should distribute the load as needed.

Funny, people used to pull V8 engines with hoists hanging from tree limbs or 4x4" across truss chords, If it looked (or sounded) like it was starting to sag, reinforce or figure something else out. It was done all of the time, before everybody had a Chinese engine hoist.

200# from where you are thinking? I might, but if it all falls on your head

If it falls on your head then you shouldn't have been under a suspended load. Errbody knows that, or should.
When I pulled the 5.3 (full load with brackets, sans AC compressor) in my 2000 Chevy, I ran a 2" rigid iron conduit across 3 or 4 floor trusses on top of the bottom cord. Non issue.
I hung a 1100/2200 hoist from it . Had it been a permanent installation, I would have hung it from all thread that went through the bottom and top cords with a large washer and nut on the floor above.
But it was fine.
I have also pulled engines from a couple of ceiling joist (2×6) in my parents garage. Hell , I had the whole 67 chevelle body hanging from those ceiling joists when I did a body off restoration. It hung there for at least a year.

 

[JCQuick]

Alright guys we came up with what i think is the best plan. I will wait to show you ene end result. But here is a basic concept of what i'm seeking to acive

 

[JCQuick]

We also weighed the heavyist item it will be used for vw air cooled long block 150lbs with 6 quarts of oil in it. the idea tonite was attch 2x4 from top of truss to bottom , then mout L bracket witth hanger the load will be spead out over 5 trusses. i can not see an issue with this

 

[zendriver]

If it falls on your head then you shouldn't have been under a suspended load. Errbody knows that, or should.
When I pulled the 5.3 (full load with brackets, sans AC compressor) in my 2000 Chevy, I ran a 2" rigid iron conduit across 3 or 4 floor trusses on top of the bottom cord. Non issue.
I hung a 1100/2200 hoist from it . Had it been a permanent installation, I would have hung it from all thread that went through the bottom and top cords with a large washer and nut on the floor above.
But it was fine.
I have also pulled engines from a couple of ceiling joist (2×6) in my parents garage. Hell , I had the whole 67 chevelle body hanging from those ceiling joists when I did a body off restoration. It hung there for at least a year.

By “ falling on your head”I meant the roof, but you do have some good points

I also understand if you ask an engineer a question, their answer is probably going to be by the book

 

[JCQuick]

well folks this is what we ended up doing and i must say its working great
We connected lower truss to upper truss with 2x4 also boxed in the main lifting point. Then mounted the L brackets to that 2x4 with 1-1/2"
and 3" lag bolts 3" in bottom and 1-1/2 in top then bo;ted the hangers to the brackets with 1/2" grade 8 bolts and nuts insert super strut and tighted pinch bolts on the brackets. Then the whench on the trollys and it works perfect already lifted a long block

 

[JCQuick]

and just to show it works

 

[zendriver]

and just to show it works

The pooch was smart enough to not stand under it.

Nice job.

 

[Stuart in MN]

well folks this is what we ended up doing and i must say its working great
We connected lower truss to upper truss with 2x4 also boxed in the main lifting point. Then mounted the L brackets to that 2x4 with 1-1/2"
and 3" lag bolts 3" in bottom and 1-1/2 in top then bo;ted the hangers to the brackets with 1/2" grade 8 bolts and nuts insert super strut and tighted pinch bolts on the brackets. Then the whench on the trollys and it works perfect already lifted a long block

Did you check for any deflection in the trusses when you lifted that long block?

 

[JCQuick]

The pooch was smart enough to not stand under it.

Nice job.

Yeah I know my son and I both knew we should.not stand under it. Its noted in our brain now

 

[JCQuick]

Did you check for any deflection in the trusses when you lifted that long block?

yep had zero the wench wiggles on the track but not bad I think its the motor torque doing it

 

[BobnCO]

That’s a fine setup, key is tying in the top and bottom truss cords!

 

[driftpin]

Looks like it's OK. I'd probably through-bolt the strut between the top/bottom cords at the contact points, instead of what appear to be nails. or screws. Their shear strength is probably sufficient, but I would through-bolt/w gusset plates.

I envy you your headroom, I wish my install had more. I do make good use of my loft space.

Maybe put a plate at the lifting point on the deck end rafter/floor joist side to take any incidental impacts while lifting? Something smooth instead of diamond-plate.

 

[Codyboy]

and just to show it works

It looks like it doesn't roll too smoothly on the track.
Is it binding or is it just the roller bearings causing that?
Also it seems not much of the bracket wraps around the strut for support. I guess with lighter loads it is fine?
The only other thing is instead of lag bolts , wouldn't it be better with through bolts?
Jusy trying to learn as I'll be doing something similar in my shop.

 

[JCQuick]

It looks like it doesn't roll too smoothly on the track.
Is it binding or is it just the roller bearings causing that?
Also it seems not much of the bracket wraps around the strut for support. I guess with lighter loads it is fine?
The only other thing is instead of lag bolts , wouldn't it be better with through bolts?
Jusy trying to learn as I'll be doing something similar in my shop.

it rolls very smooth I do need to make a better pull back string. I thought about it last night and i think a small bully so all i need to do is pull down. The big problem was my week *** 68 year old abused body lol

 

[JCQuick]

Looks like it's OK. I'd probably through-bolt the strut between the top/bottom cords at the contact points, instead of what appear to be nails. or screws. Their shear strength is probably sufficient, but I would through-bolt/w gusset plates.

I envy you your headroom, I wish my install had more. I do make good use of my loft space.

Maybe put a plate at the lifting point on the deck end rafter/floor joist side to take any incidental impacts while lifting? Something smooth instead of diamond-plate.

The heavyist thing I'll be putting up there will a lond block like in the first part of the video and that wont happen often I'm just trying to clean up floor space

 

[driftpin]

When I started doing inspections for Lifesafety Code (NFPA 101) we were told it was a minimum prescriptive code. Nothing the matter with improving on things. It's your **** and that of anyone in the garage that is at-risk, but you know that. Even a single through-bolt and flat washers beneath the bolt head and the opposite end nut would appreciably improve the structural integrity of what's been done w/nails, or are they wood screws?