Atlas Clausing 1810

[threeputt]

I have an old Atlas drill press model 1810 that I would like to restore. It has been in my shop for over 20 years. The moisture from the none insulated building has took its toll and I cannot get it to move up and down.

I worked several hours trying to clean the light rust off and still no go on raising it up and down. The handle that you turn to do this now has the gears stripped.

I know in the past I have seen someone here rebuild one of these things. Any tips on how to take this thing apart the right way ?

The thing still works . It has the three phase motor on it and of course I have three phase at my shop. I don't use it much but when I do need it I want it to work.

Also this would be a nice project. I have a 2 ton chain hoist right next to it so no problem on the lifting. I just don't want this thing on top of old me Tom.

 

[7th Kahuna]

Tom,

I took a very quick look around to see if I could find a thread specifically related to your machine and did not, but in my admittedly 'limited' experience, a drill press is a drill press. I think if you looked at the restoration of a Craftsman 100 or a Rockwell / Delta / Walker Turner, or any model Atlas, you would find enough clues to get the process started. If you get stuck, post pictures here or at OWWM.com and I'm sure you will find help. Also, if you haven't already, check out VintageMachinery.org. You may find printed parts lists which offer additional clues to disassembly. Good Luck.

 

[VocaTexas]

If you aren't already a member there, sign up at https://www.hobby-machinist.com/.

You'll find a section devoted to your lathe and lots of people there ready to help and answer questions.

 

[threeputt]

Thanks for these tips and links. I might bring it back to life after all Tom :

 

[tscheuzger]

Hi Tom,

I have a couple of these presses and I've found that the column locking wedges are prone to getting stuck. They're made out of pot metal and can deform if over-tightened. What worked for me was to remove the locking bolts and insert another rod into the hole, slightly offset, so you can tap the back side of the wedges/plugs. Make sure you spray liberal amounts of penetrant in there as well. Try not to use too small a rod or tap too hard as you're likely to deform the wedges even more. Even pressure around the circumference is what works best.

Tom