Atlas Kwik Bay 7000 Installation Notes

[funks]

Some notes, because I know alot of people want to have lifts in their garages (moved this to the correct section)

Tools Needed

3/4" Combination Wrench (for Hydraulic Fittings)
3/4" Socket and Wrench (for Banjo Fitting)
Phillips Screwdriver
Wire Stripper
10 mm wrench (for lag screws)
2 - 2x4 Wood - used for lever (8 feet in length)
Jackstand (lever fulcrum)
Straps
Pallet Jack
Grease Gun (for Zerk Fitting)
Tin Snips

Supplies Need

Thread Sealant
2 Gallon R&O Hydraulic Oil
125v / 15 AMP 3 Prong Plug
8MM OD Polyurethane PU Air Tube Hose (3 feet)
Grease

Where to Buy

Two Places sell them, Greg Smith Equipment Sales, eAutoTools.com.

Greg Smith Equipment - doesn't charge sales tax but shipping was alot more expensive

Unit Cost: 2295$
Shipping Cost: 430$+ (San Leandro Terminal)

eAutoTools - charges sales tax but shipping was alot less expensive.

Unit Cost: 2295$ ( plus -1% discount for getting on their mailing list)
Shipping Cost: 178$+ (Livermore Terminal)
Tax: 292.25$

In the end, Greg Smith Equipment was about 20$ less expensive than eAutoTools.com but meant that I had to pick it up at San Leandro vs. Livermore (from Dublin) - would have paid that as mileage rental for the truck so I chose what was closer.

I picked it up at the Freight Terminal (Will-Call) - instead of getting it delivered at home. It may have made more sense if they delivered it at home (I live in a Town house) but make sure the delivery truck has the capability of getting it down to the ground (lift gate service). MAKE SURE you rent a PALLET JACK (to get it into your garage - unless you have a Fork Lift at home). This thing weights 1200 lbs.

Considering I made it a lot more complicated for myself - I rented a 14 foot uHaul moving truck and went to the terminal. The Freight Company didn't have any issues loading it with their forklift. Mine was packaged up sitting on top two wooden pallets (pallets were side by side) - it may not fit in a pickup truck due to the raised wheel wells.

It was "FUN" trying to get it to the ground from the uHaul truck (yes, the aluminum ramps are strong enough to let it slide to the ground). You will definitely need a PALLET JACK to move this into your garage (rent one from your local equipment rental - around 40$ per day). Or you may get lucky and have 4 burly Nordic power lifters around as neighbors whose last names end with Magnusson (don't try it with your buddies though, might get a hernia). Once again, the platform is over 1200 lbs.

It also helps to make sure the delivery company gives you both "pieces" to the lift. Mine forgot to give me the control unit (had to pick it up the next day), they argued with me that 2 items meant the two pallets the platform was sitting on :rollseyes:

Upcoming notes:

B) Removing the pallets
C) Removing the platforms
D) Hookup hydraulic lines
E) Wire power cables
F) Putting it all together

 

[funks]

B: How do I get this darned thing off the pallets?

Had to improvise, Darin Nashimura of West End Alignment in SoCal used to align and corner balance my EVO and it had something to do with transferring the weight. I implemented a similar strategy..
UPDATE: If I were to do this again, I would have gone with the LEVER and STRAP method - saves alot more time.



B-1) Cut out an area for the jack to slide into one side and raise it enough (the weight will transfer to the other pallet ) so the pallet where the notch/cutout can be pulled out.



B-2) Now that the right pallet is removed, allow the right side to lower itself and touch the floor (if your jack gets stuck, just use a 2x4 as a pry bar to lift it slightly and release the jack. (This will prop up the left side now)



B-3) Use your jack an maybe a stack of books to lift the other corner which will allow you to pull the remaining pallet out.



B-4) Put some books on the right side and lower the jack. The front side will be propped up, supported by the books.



B-5) Put the jack in the middle of the cross beam (thick tubular steel) - lift it up, remove the books and lower it to the ground.

 

[funks]

C: How do I remove the platforms?

C-1) Remove Lag Screws bolting the lift to the platform (one side at a time).

C-2) Use a lever and to lift up one side and remove the wooden platforms.

C-3) Then lift up the other side and remove the other platform, lift should be fully on the ground.



C-4) Using a C-CLIP plier, remove the clips from the ramps.



C-5) Spray some Lithium Grease on the rod



C-6) Attach the ramps back onto the lift and insert the rod, then re-install the C-CLIPS



C-7) Ramp installed, do the same thing on the remaining three.

 

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D: How do I Hook-UP the lines?



D-1) Put some thread sealant on the Hydraulic Distribution Block Pipe Fittings (I used Jomar Seal WOG Thread Sealant - good for Water / Oil / Gas - can buy them at the Truck Supply Parts)



D-2) Using a 3/4 Standard Wrench, attach the hydraulic lines and air line to the supply line hose. Make sure the fittings are tight.



D-3) Remove the Cover from the Console (4 screws) and attach the Hose (Banjo), and the Air Line to the lift.

D-4) The compressor feed air line is connected via pneumatic quick-connect fittings (push-in type). You will need an intermediate Pneumatic Polyurethane (PUR) Tube which has an 8mm OD (outer diameter) and 5 MM ID (inner diameter). It's the same stuff as the black hard air lines that comes with the lift except it's slightly larger. I wasn't able to find this stuff locally and had to mail order it - available in Amazon and EBay..

D-5) You will need to attach a 1/4 NPT Male Thread Connector to the provided pneumatic straight quick connect coupler. You will then be able to attach it to your compressor's air hose.

 

[funks]

E: How do I Hook-UP the electrical wires?



E-1) Purchase a 3-prong plug from Home Depot - make sure it's rated 125V @ 15 amps



E-2) Strip the wires, BLUE is NEUTRAL, BLACK is HOT, and YELLOW/GREEN is GROUND





E-3) Attach the wires it to the 3-prong plug



E-4) Finished Plug

 

[funks]

F: What else do I need to do?

F-1) Purchase 2 Gallon Jug of R&O Hydraulic Oil from Walmart

F-2) Make sure the reservoir drain plug is tight, fill the drum with the Hydraulic Fluid (it took about a gallon and a half).

F-3) Plug the power cable and make sure your Air Compressor is on (air line from compressor attached), turn the console on and press up to operate the lift. Make sure there aren't any hydraulic leaks or air line leaks. I had an air leak on the solenoid fittings controlling the air released locks which required that I apply some sealants on said fittings.

F-4) Using your grease-gun, put some grease on the lifting joints via the Zerk fitting (there's a total of 4).

F-5) Make sure there are no hydraulic leaks anywhere, operate the LIFT up and down a few times then double check the Hydraulic Fluid reservoir then put the console's cover back on.

FINISHED

You can move the LIFT around by using the provided wheels which requires you to raise the lift, attach the wheels, then lower it which will prop up the rear of the lift. One can then use the console (hook on the bottom) in conjunction with the tongue / hole in the front of the lift's cross-member to push / pull it around.

I also bought PROTECH SIDE LIFT JACK PADS (#1006) and will be using it instead of the rubber blocks that come with the lift.

 

[greasemonkey44]

Good write up
I wish I read it before I bought my scissor lift; was a bear to unload even with a pallet jack and some dollys
I did most things pretty similar, except I slid a jack under the lift above the pallet and pushed it
Also my lift speced dex 3

Btw you and your shoulders are going to love it!!

 

[funks]

Yep, it was a challenging getting it off the uHaul truck / using the ramp - lol. I also overcomplicated the whole removing it from the pallet scenario. Could have easily used the lever approach (2 2x4s, jackstand, straps) - no need to cut a notch from the pallet..

I love working my car but get claustrophobic when underneath the car on jackstands and it stresses me out. This should fix it

 

[Lkdelta]

I wrote the original installation date on mine, amazing how fast time flies by when it's easy getting stuff done.

I also took alot of time on the first lift and got the vehicle exactly centered.
Painted a black mark on the lift pads that are on the exact spot, the outer edge of the vehicle tires need to be crossing the pads.

Especially helpful if backing in onto the lift, no danger you too far to one side or the other

 

[funks]

I added more pics on where the zerk grease fittings are, and where to attach the wheels (if one were to move it around)..

It's alive

 

[Lkdelta]

I also bought PROTECH SIDE LIFT JACK PADS (#1006) and will be using it instead of the rubber blocks that come with the lift.

Where did you get the extra round pads? Got a link, or PM phone number please?

 

[funks]

Here's a link..

http://protechproducts.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=35_37&product_id=56

Some cars are not supposed to be lifted in the actual pinch welds but on the flat pads ontop the pink welds (like my Subaru). Works well..

 

[JonnFX]

I love my Atlas Kwik Bay 7000.

 

[Lkdelta]

I love my Atlas Kwik Bay 7000.

Almost wonder how I lived without it....

 

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[neogeofan]

Hi. Just wondering if you could recommend a truck to rent for picking up this exact lift. I was looking at one from enterprise
//www.enterprisetrucks.com/truckrental/en_US/vehicles/smallcabtrucks/personal16.html

I also wanted to verify about the 15amp plug. I thought the unit requires 30 amps? Thanks for all your help

 

[Lkdelta]

Hi. Just wondering if you could recommend a truck to rent for picking up this exact lift.
Thanks for all your help

I had better luck getting it onto and off an open flatbed trailer
I put a friends large boat in the water and then used that trailer refitted with a 2X4 payload frame

The unit is 72" X 58", is the truck door wide enough....

 

[neogeofan]

Thanks

 

[funks]

Hi. Just wondering if you could recommend a truck to rent for picking up this exact lift. I was looking at one from enterprise
//www.enterprisetrucks.com/truckrental/en_US/vehicles/smallcabtrucks/personal16.html

I also wanted to verify about the 15amp plug. I thought the unit requires 30 amps? Thanks for all your help

I've been using it for over a year now and no issues with the plug I bought. Not sure if it really needs a 30 amp plug..

 

[funks]

Best companion to the lift - a proper inclined / adjustable creeper for my mid-rise lift. No more killing my back and my neck..

Whiteside Manufacturing - MTL2UP

 

[funks]

Had it for a couple of years now, only real problem I ran into was yesterday - poor spot weld on the release tab on one of the ramps (broke clean off when I was pressing it).

 

[chetzar]

I know this is not exactly a new thread, but I am looking at this lift and was hoping one of ya’ll might know the answer to this ��
I can’t seem to find what the locking heights are - it seems to have, based on Greg Smiths’s website, 13 locking positions - is this correct? If so, that would be super awesome as I don’t have super tall ceilings in the garage.

 

[CardFan]

I know this is not exactly a new thread, but I am looking at this lift and was hoping one of ya’ll might know the answer to this ��
I can’t seem to find what the locking heights are - it seems to have, based on Greg Smiths’s website, 13 locking positions - is this correct? If so, that would be super awesome as I don’t have super tall ceilings in the garage.

I grabbed a couple pics from the OP’s post. The metal rails just inside the main platforms with notches in them represent the lock positions. In the top of the second pic, that arm lifts up when supplied with pneumatic air, then "locks" the lift when it drops back down into the notch. So yes, 13 lock positions, which was one of the big selling points for me.

 

[kaymccampbell]

It really does well in a low ceiling environment. I only have 8' ceilings, so with the lights and the need for 6" more, to release the lift, I can lift the roof of the car to 7'. It gives plenty of room underneath. Sometimes it turns out too high to reach from the creeper. It starts locking positively at around 15" from the floor.

Make sure you leave at least 6" from your lowest obstruction on the ceiling, when lifting. To release the locks, the lift auto rises about 6", then pops the locks, and finally starts to drop. It's not explained well in the instructions. First time I ran it, I thought I hit the wrong button.

Mine is on a 15 amp breaker since I installed it a few years ago, and has never popped the breaker. And, the wiring is world standard, not US, so you get brown/black, blue n green wires in the lead cord.

If you can, bolt it to the floor. I have 4 of the giant Tapcons holding it in place. Things like Caravans n pickup trucks can make the lift slide on the floor. Especially if you hesitate, or brake, when driving on n off the lift.

Getting the lift inside and running took about 30 minutes, from the time the flatbed wrecker dropped it off.

And, the best $200 I ever spent, hiring a local flatbed wrecker to come with me to the freight terminal. There was zero drama getting the lift on, and it slid off so nice n neat, right up to the garage door.

It also makes the greatest adjustable workbench.

 

[chetzar]

Thank you very much for the responses. I was torn between this and the Bendpak Mid-Rise. Given this has 13 locking positions vs 3 or 4 on the Bendpak, I’ll be going with this puppy!
TY!

 

[QuickRick]

Guys

I have had mine since 1/19 and really like it. Its powerful, there are no posts to open a door into and when not in use, it stores under my F150! I have only 9 foot 3 inch ceilings so this fits well.

What I don't like is the lack-o-service I got from my vendor. I had installation questions and I tried to contact them later as to optional parts. All I can say is that its a good thing it's so reliable because they don't know how to respond to their customers. I tried 3 times and nada, zip,nothing. Really poor customer service.

Have any of you had this issue with GS Equipment? How did you resolve it?

QR