Attaching angle iron between sheetrock and interior brick wall

[branimal]

I have an interior brick wall that I will be installing angle irons on for moulding. Going for a industrial look. Currently the largest gap I have is 3 1/2” between the brick wall the sheetrock. There is a 3” gap b/w the brick wall and the ceiling. That would force me to use 4” x 4” angle irons, which are huge. I’d like to close the gap between the sheetrock and brick wall to an 1 ” so i can use1 1/2”x 1 1/2” angle iron. Way cheaper and lighter.

There are metal studs behind the yellow rectangles i drew on the pictures.

How would you guys go about solving this problem?

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[jeffmattero76]

I have an interior brick wall that I will be installing angle irons on for moulding. Going for a industrial look. Currently the largest gap I have is 3 1/2” between the brick wall the sheetrock. There is a 3” gap b/w the brick wall and the ceiling. That would force me to use 4” x 4” angle irons, which are huge. I’d like to close the gap between the sheetrock and brick wall to an 1 ” so i can use1 1/2”x 1 1/2” angle iron. Way cheaper and lighter.

There are metal studs behind the yellow rectangles i drew on the pictures.

How would you guys go about solving this problem?

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Probably not the look you are going for, but how about 1x4 on the wall, and crown moulding or another 1x4 on the ceiling.

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[Hot Rod Grampa]

Look up inside corner for metal pole barn siding. Many colors as well as plain galvanized. Much lighter and easier to install.

 

[metalmagpie]

Get your sheetrock guy to add more sheetrock until there isn't a gap. Then put your angle on over the sheetrock.

I'm a fan of the industrial look myself.

metalmagpie

 

[ard]

They make angles with unequal 'legs', FWIW...

But agree with above, get the sheetrock done right first

 

[Radix2]

Fix the drywall or cover the gap with a 1x6, install angle. A 1x with square edge and painted will still have a clean industrial look.

 

[branimal]

So the problem is I’m the sheetrock guy and everything else. And my sheetrock skills aren’t great. The gap between the last stud (yellow rectangle) and the brick wall varies from 2 1/4” - 2 3/8”.

Here’s my idea on how to get sheetrock to the edge of the brick wall on the ceiling. I can use similar steps on the wall - I think.
1. Cut out sheetrock to make space: Cut the sheetrock back 5-6” behind the the first metal stud (yellow rectangle in picture). This will create enough space to fit a right angle drill and a 1” wood screw. I can cut the sheetrock straight with a multi tool and laser line.
2. Attach a 1/2” scrap to a 2x4. This will make the stud 2”. Leaving a gap b/w the stud and the brick wall of 1/4” - 3/8”.
3. Attach new sheetrock: Use 1/2" scrap wood as nailers to reattach new sheetrock on the side opposite the brick wall and the 2x4 becomes the nailer on the brick wall side.
4. Hire a drywall taper: I got a guy coming this weekend to tape everywhere
5. Attach 2x2 angle iron: Use black hex head lag screws.

What’s wrong with the plan, or how can I make my life easier?

Thanks!!!


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[kaymccampbell]

Thin 4x4 angle iron isn't that expensive and would be easier than all the dicking around you are planning on doing.

 

[branimal]

Thin 4x4 angle iron isn't that expensive and would be easier than all the dicking around you are planning on doing.

Haha... you are correct - there’s a lot of dicking around here.

Thinnest angle iron I can find is 4x4 x 1/4”. 17 feet will weigh 112lbs. Not sure my flimsy metal stud track can hold that weight safely.

But open to the idea. Because this is a lot wasted time.


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[rustyjames]

Why heavy angle iron? Get some sheet metal bent into any angle you want. In my shop rehab project manager using painted aluminum coil stock and bending trim pieces myself.

 

[branimal]

McCampbell you're right - this is a lot of dicking around. I can get 3x2 x 3/16. 53lbs That will cover the gaps on the ceiling (correction from last post —> 2 1/4" - 2 3/4” ) Screw that to the brick wall with masonry anchors. . I can get my drywall taping guy to tighten up the gap on the 3 1/2” gap on the wall. Done deal.

Thanks for the wake up call!


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[KEH]

What Rusty James said. Probably there is commercial light angle iron availiable, but do cost comparison between having it made and buying new.

KEH

 

[tinmanwpk]

Thin 4x4 angle iron isn't that expensive and would be easier than all the dicking around you are planning on doing.

4 x 4 angle iron only comes in 1/4" thick and thicker.

 

[tapered-pin]

I'm a little confused.. how are you planning on fastening the angle iron?

MY plan would be to blow holes in the angle iron every 36"-48" and use bolts to fasten it to the face of the brick at the top and sides, letting the other leg "close the gap" between the walls and ceiling.

the brick will hold the angle fine.

 

[ard]

You can (should?) also space the one leg off the brick by 1/2 to 3/4".

It will create a more interesting shadowline. And such a small space will not allow anyone to look past this into the 'crack'

This way you might not need the fill 4". In fact 3 or 3.5 might work, and I think those might be less than 1/4" as well.

FWIW

 

[APEowner]

One of my favorite parts of the industrial look is mixed materials. What about using a combination of wood (to fill the gaps) and steel angle? Kind of like a traditional built up molding but with wood and steel.

 

[A**holes Garage]

Do you have a problem with drilling a few holes in your brick for anchors?

You could put anchor plates in the top corners and suspend or connect the top rail to the plates, and would also serve as a means of support for your vertical runs.

You could use 4" flat plate 1/8" thick and "weld" fabricate your own angle?

I'd also consider some faux anchor rivet heads in the plate or angle.

 

[texas webb]

Just get a sheetmetal shop(hvac) to break some 18-20ga metal to your sizes,light easy to fasten....Done.

 

[kbs2244]

I would call a good drywall guy for an afternoon beer.

 

[branimal]

I'm a little confused.. how are you planning on fastening the angle iron?

MY plan would be to blow holes in the angle iron every 36"-48" and use bolts to fasten it to the face of the brick at the top and sides, letting the other leg "close the gap" between the walls and ceiling.

the brick will hold the angle fine.

In hindsight this is what I should have done.

Someone got it in my head that drilling into that 110 year old brick isn’t a great idea.




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[branimal]

I cut the sheet back in 4 spots and drilled 2x4s into the stud track. These will serve as nailers for the 3x2x3/16”. It weighs 52”lbs for the 17 footer.

That will cover the gap b/w the ceiling and the brick wall.

For the wall nailers I ripped down some 2x and slipped them into the vertical studs.

I think as others have suggested, screwing into the brick would have been the right call.

Ard - good call on the unequal legs. My local steel supply can get 3x2s in a day. Total cost 150$.

Next time I’ll post my question before the day of the job so I can do things the easier way.

Thanks guys






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