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Attaching Butcher Block to HF Toolboxes?

gr8smiles

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Aug 26, 2018
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Nashville
My garage is finally completed and now the fun begins. I’ve been collecting the blue HF boxes and have butcher block tops ordered. I have two 26” boxes with the hanging end box in the middle. I have a 69”x 24” top for those and have 2 44” boxes that have a 96” top coming for them. What’s the best way to attach the tops? The cabinets are placed permanently as I’ve removed the wheels.

Thanks for any ideas.

I’ll post some pics later tonight.

Rick
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JOHN 86GT

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Mukwonago, Wi
You could use plywood or MDF to fill the gap between top of box and side lips . Remove top draw screw from bottom threw "spacer " to top.

Very nice shop !
 

MuhThugga

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Wilmington, De
Mine is a 72x30 and is just laid on top. It isn't going to go anywhere. I had it sitting on two 18" deep boxes before I picked up the new 22" deep box.

IMG_20181204_214106.jpg
 

no704

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Might want to install some carriage bolts or inserts if you plan on a vice, bench grinder, etc. prior to the top install.
 

maplepuck

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Feb 15, 2018
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Southern Oregon
Love the look of you space, and the floor coloring is something im looking at doing, very nice; and love the pine shiplap siding.

RE: tops: get some pronged T-Nuts and matching bolts, drill holes in top of cabinet at for corners and fasten
 
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rpcraft

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Waco
I would use rivnuts on the cabinet, then align and drill holes in your butcher block and then make some counter sink holes so you can make the bolts perfect length and then not have them protruding above the butcher block or into the depths of the toolbox (and possibly catch on tools and things.
 

Ohmthis

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Outside of Louisville KY
I’m digging the shop! I like the idea of putting plywood or OSB in the sections of the boxes to get them all up level. Then you can use construction adhesive to glue down the butcher block and run screws up through the Ply/OSB into the top. It’s not going to move and it would be easy to pull up to clean or expand. You could also router a groove in the top for the lips of the boxes.
 
OP
G

gr8smiles

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Nashville
Thanks for all the ideas. I like the construction adhesive and then screwing from the bottom.
My next venture is to get some cabinets for the walls.
 

LeeG

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Phoenix, AZ
I'd avoid construction adhesive - if you ever want to remove it, its going to be tough. A bead of silicon would probably work as well and at least have a chance at removal in the future.
 

Mustang1167

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Pittsburgh, PA
My butcher block is just sitting on top. I took a router and cut a grove where the two boxes connect so I have one continuous worktop.
 

rsanter

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visalia ca
I am using mine as the base for a lathe
I placed the top on the box and then the lathe. Marked and drilled them holes through the top and the box
Bolts installed holding the lathe to the box throughnthe top

Bob
 

Stuart in MN

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Minneapolis
Another reason not to use glue is you also need to allow for the wood to expand and shrink, depending on variations in humidity in the room over time. I'd use screws up from below, but through slots or even just some oversize holes cut in the toolbox tops.
 

pbon

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With the old 44” cabinets that had lips around the edges, we used a frame of 1x2 inside the lips and then cut mdf to fit on top of all 3 cabinets. Butcher block would work well. You could space your cabinets off the wall, screw a strip to the wall at the lip height and then screw the butcher block to it.
 
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csp

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Franktown, CO
RE: tops: get some pronged T-Nuts and matching bolts, drill holes in top of cabinet at for corners and fasten

Unless those t-nuts are installed in the top face of the wood they are just going to pull out of the bottom as you tighten the bolt.
 

bad_idea

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With the wheels off, is that a good work bench height? I am 6' 2" and hate bending over at a bench. I find the ideal height for a bench is right at elbow height - 40" in my case. If the boxes are a touch low, then I would build a bench around them like Steevo.

If you can not weld, then a bench could just as easily be made with 2x material. If made of wood, then the cabinets would sit on the floor and the bench built around them. Take a drawer to Sherwin Williams and have them color match it in an industrial enamel, and paint the bench to match the cabinets.

As a side note, what is the going price for those cabinets these days? I bought one years ago when the were only available in red for $289 IIRC. Outfitting the new garage I may have to invest in a couple more of those.
 

bugnut

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If not mounting a vise and just using as a work surface, which is how i use mine, I spotfaced the backside and used Neodymium magnets screwed on.
Awesome shop too...
 
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NUTTSGT

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With the wheels off, is that a good work bench height? I am 6' 2" and hate bending over at a bench. I find the ideal height for a bench is right at elbow height - 40" in my case. If the boxes are a touch low, then I would build a bench around them like Steevo.

If you can not weld, then a bench could just as easily be made with 2x material. If made of wood, then the cabinets would sit on the floor and the bench built around them. Take a drawer to Sherwin Williams and have them color match it in an industrial enamel, and paint the bench to match the cabinets.

My thoughts as well on the height.


I'd use some short lags from the underside with fender washer to help spread the load.
 

bad_idea

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I've put a bit more thought into it, again I plan to build a similar bench once I get the new shop built. I think the top attached to the cabinet tops with a piece of plywood to take up the space of the seam at the top is ideal.

Then build a platform of appropriate height to set the tool boxes on. If your floor is not level then you can make up the difference by scribing the base into the floor (cut the framework at necessary angles to make top of base square and level). Build the base with a removable front. Set the cabinets on the base, attach the base to the cabinet bottoms, and then install the front face. Set the base front back a few inches to provide room for your toes when working at the bench, much like kitchen cabinets. Lag the base down to the slab and the whole bench will be rock solid.

Add a back splash and you are in there. The back splash prevents a lot of dents and gouges in the wall as things are slid onto the bench. Also takes up any gap between wall board and the bench top that would allow smaller items (pencil, drill bit, etc) to roll off the back into an inaccessible void.
 

NUTTSGT

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I've put a bit more thought into it, again I plan to build a similar bench once I get the new shop built. I think the top attached to the cabinet tops with a piece of plywood to take up the space of the seam at the top is ideal.

Then build a platform of appropriate height to set the tool boxes on. If your floor is not level then you can make up the difference by scribing the base into the floor (cut the framework at necessary angles to make top of base square and level). Build the base with a removable front. Set the cabinets on the base, attach the base to the cabinet bottoms, and then install the front face. Set the base front back a few inches to provide room for your toes when working at the bench, much like kitchen cabinets. Lag the base down to the slab and the whole bench will be rock solid.

Add a back splash and you are in there. The back splash prevents a lot of dents and gouges in the wall as things are slid onto the bench. Also takes up any gap between wall board and the bench top that would allow smaller items (pencil, drill bit, etc) to roll off the back into an inaccessible void.

This is what I did in my car trailer. I hinged a piece of diamond plate and used magnets to hold it closed. I keep some extension cords and my LP gas hose underneath. My frame work was sq tubing.
 

DJL1967

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Dec 13, 2016
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Northern Ontario
I have 2 60" Husky cabinets that came with cheap wood tops secured with bolts from underneath. I wanted a full-length top without a seam so I came up with a way to have that and make it easy to replace if needed. I took the wheels off each cabinet and joined them together and placed them on a treated wood base. For the top, I took 3/4" plywood and marked out the holes that the previous top utilized and drilled holes, countersunk and glued (so they don't turn) the bolts. I then took another piece of 3/4" plywood and glued them together. I then added maple flooring to finish the top off and give me a butcher block look. If down the road I need to replace the top I just remove the 8 nuts and the top comes off. It is very solid and looks just like a real butcher block top at a fraction of the price.
 
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bad_idea

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Treated wood is not a good choice. The chemicals in the wood will eat away at the metal over time. The powder coating on the cabinet will slow the process down, but likely will not stop it. I don't believe you need treated wood in the garage, shouldn't be that wet in there. If you do need the treated lumber, then I would put a piece of plywood on top of the treated wood to separate the two.
 

DJL1967

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Treated wood is not a good choice. The chemicals in the wood will eat away at the metal over time. The powder coating on the cabinet will slow the process down, but likely will not stop it. I don't believe you need treated wood in the garage, shouldn't be that wet in there. If you do need the treated lumber, then I would put a piece of plywood on top of the treated wood to separate the two.

You're absolutely correct and I failed to mention that I had made a treated 2x4 frame with standard 3/4 plywood on top so that the cabinets are not in contact with the treated wood. My garage is only 24' deep so I didn't want to risk the wood getting wet as where I'm from we have lots of snow and slush from the vehicles.
Thanks for pointing this out.
 
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