Attaching fly rafters to trussed gable roof

[mark2457]

Hi Guys

Was looking at stock trusses (24' 4/12 24" OC). My local Menards carries these, but the end truss is same height as common trusses. They don't seem to have a stock dropped gable end (I know I could get one custom made).

I was planning on at least a 1 foot overhang (maybe 2'). Is there a way to do this without notching the top chord (probably not a good idea ) or just nailing the fly rafter to the sheathing (I know some people do that, but I'm not sure it's a good idea).

Only way I can imagine doing it (with stock trusses) is reducing the height of end wall to give me the clearance for the lookouts and then build it up where required. Not sure that's up to code though

Attached are plans of framing and rendered perspective

Any other suggestions

Regards

Mark

 

[The Cobbler]

in my area if I cut the truss they would fail it as it's nnot as per engineered. I can nail lookouts to the truss and sheathing for the overhang and pass. My preference would be dropped gable truss to nail lookouts 1 truss back . Look at other truss manufacturers and compare prices, or, can you fabricate your own gable trusses since it's bearing on the walls?

 

[rvieceli]

Menard's does carry those dropped end trusses, just not over 20 foot spans.

My suggestion would be go to real lumber yard (not a big box) and have them give you a quote on what you want and need. They'll have a truss manufacturer that they use that will be able to take care of it.

Plus they'll deliver them.

 

[mark2457]

Menard's does carry those dropped end trusses, just not over 20 foot spans.

My suggestion would be go to real lumber yard (not a big box) and have them give you a quote on what you want and need. They'll have a truss manufacturer that they use that will be able to take care of it.

Plus they'll deliver them.

Thanks. Just got quote (inc dropped end) from Midwest manufacturing (supplier for menards)

 

[theoldwizard1]

Not a carpenter, so these are "randow" thoughts.

Attach 2x4s that will support the free hanging truss to the face of the last truss using joist hangers. Joist hangers will be required on the free hanging rafter. How many, is a good question.

Here is the out of the box idea. Run a second 2x4 under each of these 2x4 holding the free hanging truss, but it must start from under the second truss back and go under the free hanging rafter (54"?). Attach to the other 2x4 with construction adhesive and pocket screws.

Make sure tha free hanging truss is well supported until you get all of this installed. I would also leave the extra supports in while installing the roof decking and the shingles.

Want to go the extra mile ? Use 2x10s that extend back to under the second truss and notch them so they fit into the truss's 2x4s.

Will it pass inspection ? Beats me !

 

[Stuart in MN]

The overhangs on my garage are 18", and they were done by nailing a 'ladder' structure to the gable wall - see the picture below. The garage is close to 20 years old now, no problems.

 

[mark2457]

Thanks guys

I'm sure I could do something that would hold up. Problem is, these days, have to pass an inspection!

 

[nfk]

The overhangs on my garage are 18", and they were done by nailing a 'ladder' structure to the gable wall - see the picture below. The garage is close to 20 years old now, no problems.

For you situation, use this method. Ive done this before and never a problem with only a 1' overhang. Use 5/8" roof sheathing and it will be fine.

 

[Kevin54]

The overhangs on my garage are 18", and they were done by nailing a 'ladder' structure to the gable wall - see the picture below. The garage is close to 20 years old now, no problems.

I don't like doing them that way all for the fact that they are a weak point if you have to stand on them. I'm always afraid they will give out.

With that, I normally make my end truss myself that is 3 1/2" shorter, then stand my 2x4's on edge so they cantilever over the end truss. The end truss is easy to make, and just use OSB instead of metal plates to hold it together, or sandwich the complete rafter in OSB.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The old "rule of thumb" for anything cantilevered, 1/3 extension, 2/3 behind.

 

[mark2457]

The old "rule of thumb" for anything cantilevered, 1/3 extension, 2/3 behind.

+1 on that

 

[nfk]

I don't like doing them that way all for the fact that they are a weak point if you have to stand on them. I'm always afraid they will give out.

With that, I normally make my end truss myself that is 3 1/2" shorter, then stand my 2x4's on edge so they cantilever over the end truss. The end truss is easy to make, and just use OSB instead of metal plates to hold it together, or sandwich the complete rafter in OSB.

I do agree that this is the best method

 

[Firebird 1]

I agree with NFK, for a 1' overhang this method is time tested. It will stay there as long as the rest of the roof. May not be the best solution but you can do it with no problems.

 

[kbs2244]

The traditional way usually becomes the traditional way because it works.
I would get the correct end truss.
The dropped top plate on the end wall will casue problems at the soffit.