Attaching metal top to workbench

[BikerDad]

So, I've got the workbench expansion almost complete, and have come to the point of attaching the metal top to the wood substrate.

Suggestions on how to go about that? The metal plate is 1/8" steel, the wood substrate is 1 5/8" Douglas Fir. I am reluctant to attach it permanently.

 

[jimgood]

You can drill it and countersink wood screws. You'll find that the bottom of the countersink will need to be larger than the screw diameter in order for the head to sit flush with the surface, but it won't hurt anything. You won't need more than 4 screws to keep it in place.

It will look a little like this:

View media item 59857

 

[crab]

Weld tabs under the top that you can screw the top to the frame with .

 

[REKIII]

Screw aluminum or steel angles around the edges. Will create a lip....maybe that's OK?

 

[BikerDad]

jimgood's suggestion looks to be closest to what I was considering, although I'm tempted to use bolts through rather than screws into the top.

Lacking a welder currently, crab's suggestion isn't practical. I like it though because it means no holes in the top itself. As I plan on starting a welding course in the next month, a variation on REKIII's idea is stewing in the back of my mind. Gives the advantage of protecting the front edge as well.

Heck, I may just tack it down with a small quantity of adhesive for the short term until I can add welding to the solution options. Then it's a fusion between crab's and REKIII's ideas.

 

[jimgood]

I think using bolts will piss you off at some point. Anything protruding on the surface of a work bench eventually gets in the way of something. Or scratches something you didn't want scratched.

Truth be told, with nothing to attach it that sheet is going to sit there doing it's job and probably won't move. If you really think it's going to move during some process, throw a couple C-clamps on it.

 

[383 240z]

I'd put a few small holes along the back edge, pound a few 8d nails and call it good.
don't you have a vise on the bench? Those mounting bolts will hold the front. No vise, go with the c-clamp idea of jimgood

 

[beakie]

what size is the bench top?
you lay a 2'x4' sheet of 1/8" down it shouldn't wander to far anyway.


if you're really concerned, grab some 3m double sided foam tape. will hold well enough, but also come apart easily if need be as the foam will tear. then easy clean up with razor blade.

 

[Blazinzuk]

I would go the countersunk route. Easy to do, clean, replaceable, smooth top for the most part.

I had a buddy do one with liquid nails. Just put a bunch of weight on it for 24 hours. It's solid as a rock.

 

[southalabama]

I'd use a couple small dabs of liquid nails.

If that didn't hold sufficiently I'd use a small finish nail on the back of the top. Small hole drilled. Just enough to keep it from sliding. That size steel shouldn't slide much.

 

[astroracer]

Yup a couple small dabs of silicone or LN's will hold it sufficiently. No need to go overboard. Especially if you are mounting a vise.
Mark

 

[Flange]

Check out post #52 here

 

[BikerDad]

Plate size is 72 1/8" long by 12" wide by 1/8" thick. I misspoke when I said "bolts" up above, because I make a strong mental distinction between screws, which go INTO something, and bolts, which go THROUGH something and are secured by nuts on the far side. Am I the only one who does this?? The fastener's head size and shape doesn't really make much difference to my reflexive mental distinction. What I really meant to say is I may use a countersunk machine screw & nut, which will avoid the projecting head issue pointed out above.

I like the double sided tape idea, I'm adding that one to the options. I'm not going to permanently mount any vises until after I've used them for a while, so I'll have a better idea based on some experience of where they'll best be located for my purposes.

 

[no704]

May want to look into some pen studs.

 

[larry4406]

Clean backside very well and use contact cement applied to wood and metal then a roller?

 

[BikerDad]

May want to look into some pen studs.

Pen studs?? I'm not familiar with the term.

 

[Carl_WI]

I mounted my vice on the corner of the bench. That way I can swivel it to take advantage of my door.

I used lag bolts to secure the vice as there is allot of wood there.

 

[Jazz1]

You can drill it and countersink wood screws. You'll find that the bottom of the countersink will need to be larger than the screw diameter in order for the head to sit flush with the surface, but it won't hurt anything. You won't need more than 4 screws to keep it in place.

It will look a little like this:

View media item 59857

Thats how I did mine,,,30"x14' 1/8" steel.. Just enough screws to hold it in place.

 

[Theo911]

I used 1/8" x 1/2" wide angle aluminum and countersunk the screws as described above. I used a drill bit slightly larger than the head of the screw to create the countersunk holes. Light pressure and go slow to get the depth correct.

 

[JABgj]

How about Velcro on the corners?

 

[Beemer533]

Plate size is 72 1/8" long by 12" wide by 1/8" thick. I misspoke when I said "bolts" up above, because I make a strong mental distinction between screws, which go INTO something, and bolts, which go THROUGH something and are secured by nuts on the far side. Am I the only one who does this?? The fastener's head size and shape doesn't really make much difference to my reflexive mental distinction. What I really meant to say is I may use a countersunk machine screw & nut, which will avoid the projecting head issue pointed out above.

I like the double sided tape idea, I'm adding that one to the options. I'm not going to permanently mount any vises until after I've used them for a while, so I'll have a better idea based on some experience of where they'll best be located for my purposes.

That more or less makes sense, although you can certainly get a machine screw that uses a nut, like a 10-32 philips for example..


To secure the top I would also just do a few dabs of silicon... Shouldn't go anywhere.

 

[ilovevocs]

^^. Same here. Withheld my two cents but silicone or a liquid nails / contrition adhesive. Clamp it down overnight and call it done. If you ever replace it your going to want a whole new bench. Don't overthink it, just get it done and use it.


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[FunkyfullWidth]

I personally wouldn't use adhesive, I always like the option of easily removing things. I'd go with tabs and screws/lags or countersink some screws. You could even drill some countersinks, put in countersunk bolts, then weld and grind the heads smooth. Nuts and washers under neath.