Attaching upper panel reinforcement for opener

[Lowry]

I have a Wayne Dalton lightweight insulated steel door with rolled inner edges. It's a 12 ft wide door with no center stile. Take a look at the photos.

I'm trying to figure out how to attach a reinforcement bracket to the top panel for an opener. The inside of each panel is a thin plastic sheet to cover the insulation. Obviously can't attach anything to that and there's NO help on the Wayne Dalton site.

The standard generic reinforcement bars would have to attach to the lower edge of the U strut at the top, and the bottom roll of steel. It seems to me attaching a bracket to the rolled edges would eventually pull out where it's attached. Anyone have this kind of a door?

 

[timewarp]

My garage door is like that, it's insulated but the reinforcements aren't in the exact center, they just installed the door opener off to one side so that it was in line with the reinforcements and the hinges. The opener can be either side of center, and in line with the hinges on the door.

 

[Lowry]

Thank you timewarp,

Unfortunately I've seen 3 off-center installations pull out the hinge stile. May have been doors out of adjustment, but I have my opener centered and it's already up. I know there has to be a way to do this.

 

[pattenp]

Have you thought of using a jackshaft opener such as the Liftmaster 8500?

 

[timewarp]

I'd make some kind of reinforcement that went to the 2 strips that the hinges are on then, if not I think that first panel will flex out of shape after a while.

 

[Lowry]

Pattenp, I didn't know about the Liftmaster 8500 until another member mentioned it. The opener is installed and ready to attach to the door, if I could just figure out how to do it.
I was hoping there would be somebody on this forum who had the same situation with a centered reinforcement. It occurred to me to do a horizontal reinforcement like timewarp suggested, but I've got windows, and don't really want that kind of installation unless I have to. Father's Day may not have been the best day to ask this question.

 

[LB-1911]

I have a Wayne Dalton lightweight insulated steel door with rolled inner edges. It's a 12 ft wide door with no center stile. Take a look at the photos.

I'm trying to figure out how to attach a reinforcement bracket to the top panel for an opener. The inside of each panel is a thin plastic sheet to cover the insulation. Obviously can't attach anything to that and there's NO help on the Wayne Dalton site.

The standard generic reinforcement bars would have to attach to the lower edge of the U strut at the top, and the bottom roll of steel. It seems to me attaching a bracket to the rolled edges would eventually pull out where it's attached. Anyone have this kind of a door?

The series of your door would be of use -

Instructions for the installation of the Operator bracket for series 9100, 9400, AND 9600 doors is found on page 17 @
http://www.wayne-dalton.com/residen...0-TorqueMaster-SDSpring-PO-INSTALL-302868.pdf

edit to add - 9100/9400/9600 or 5120/5140 - Refer to #13 - pg 5 @
http://www.wayne-dalton.com/residen...rqueMasterPlus-StandardLift-QSTART-341232.pdf


Description - Specifications - Compatible With & FAQ -
for the Trolley Arm Attachment Operator Bracket @
http://www.waynedaltonparts.com/Wayne-Dalton-Trolley-Arm-Attachment-Operator-Bracket.html

Wayne Dalton
http://www.wayne-dalton.com/residential/Pages/default.aspx

Good Luck

 

[Dcampbell98xj]

The jack shaft openers only work if your door has a torsion spring. (Over top of the door.) being a garage door guy for 10 years I can tell you that offsetting the motor on a door with torsion springs is perfectly fine. Door lifts from the cables on the bottom panel at a even rate on both sides. If your door has extension spring that run down the sides of the door it could get hung up and risk ripping the top panel apart. You will definitely want a strut for the top panel. Goes right along the top of the panel and screws into the supports giving it strength from ripping apart. You will need to find an opener extension bracket to distribute the force, it screws into the top and bottom of which ever support you choose to use. Any other questions feel free to ask. I have more knowledge about garage doors then I ever hoped or wanted to know.

 

[Dcampbell98xj]

Also since I looked at the pictures you do have a torsion spring set up. You will be fine wherever you mount it. If you have room on the side of hue door I'd recommend the liftmaster jack shaft opener. No brackets needed and they are quiet and fairly easy to install. Look to see if you have 8-12" of clearance from your verticle track to the adjoining wall. Any less and you will have a hard time. Also with a Wayne dalton door of that style and size I'd recommend getting a second strut ( the U shaped brace) and put it on the panel below your top one. If seen many doors bow and fall out of the opening and tracks. Especially if the door spends more time open then closed.

 

[Lowry]

Thanks for the info Dcampbell! My door is closed most of the time because I live at the coast, so I'm not too worried about bowing, but it's another of the reasons I don't want to add a lot of weight to the center of the door. The jack shaft opener sounds wonderful, but I've already got a Chamberlain belt drive installed. I'm starting to think a standard adjustable bracket attached to the lower roll and upper horizontal strut will work just fine, and I may add a piece of wood furring board horizontally behind the lower roll just to further stabilize that part of the door and further disseminate the load.

 

[Lowry]

Hi LB,
I have a series 8000 door and it says the exact same thing as the manual for the 9100. Unfortunately, I'm visual and I need a picture showing an installed brace. I think I've got it though. See my reply to Dcampbell98xj. I'll post a photo when I'm done so anyone else who might have this kind of door will have a better idea of what to do. My neighbor's install just has the opener supplied bracket leaned across the top and screwed in at an angle. I'm surprised that's lasted as long as it has.

 

[LB-1911]

Hi LB,
I have a series 8000 door and it says the exact same thing as the manual for the 9100.

Unfortunately, I'm visual and I need a picture showing an installed brace.

I think I've got it though. See my reply to Dcampbell98xj. I'll post a photo when I'm done so anyone else who might have this kind of door will have a better idea of what to do. My neighbor's install just has the opener supplied bracket leaned across the top and screwed in at an angle. I'm surprised that's lasted as long as it has.

Why not contact Wayne Dalton?

From here it appears that the only item needed is a Trolley Arm Attachment Operator Bracket.

Submit a ticket
http://support.waynedaltonparts.com/support/tickets/new

Good Luck

 

[Dcampbell98xj]

Yeah most openers only come with a small bracket that you mount to the top. The best to use is a long bracket that goes from the top to bottom of the panel. You can also use angle iron and just cut it to size. I believe sears and Home Depot sell the brackets. Chamberlain iOS the mother company of both craftsman and liftmaster openers. Liftmaster is the professional line. Craftsmen and chamberlain are DIY brands. Most of the parts are interchangeable as well unless you buy a screw drive opener.

 

[Lowry]

Hi LB,

The link is to the company I got the wrong bracket from and they made it very clear they were a parts place only and couldn't help me find what I needed! The Wayne Dalton site refers to authorized dealers, and the two local companies I called said they'd never installed a series 8000 door and would have to come out and look at it. My manual shows the bracket for the 9100 series door, which I ordered thinking it would work, but it doesn't fit the configuration at the top of the door. I'm going to a larger town this week, and I'll contact a Wayne-Dalton dealer there to see if they can help.