attic access

[gcan]

I am in the process of having a 26x26 detached garage built and could use some advise on attic access.

My orginal plan was 28x24 and had interior steps to access the upstairs for future living space. Well due to budget ($$$) issues I scaled the plan back and opted 26x26 garage with a standard ceiling truss system. It will have a
10' wide section down the middle to use for storage. I plan to floor this area with plywood and store light weight items, no furniture are anything just storage to keep the garage tidy. My house garage has a pull down and man it is a pain to get up and down and I would like to have a small set of steps installed in the new garage, just to make it more convient. Has anybody used steps instead of a pull down and if so do you have any pics? What size is you framed opening? any regrets?

Thank you in advance for any input or suggestions
Greg

 

[cw_racefan]

No picture, but I did something similar. I wanted stair access to my storage trusses. I had the truss designer design things so that I had 3 foot spacing between the gable end truss and the first attic truss. Basically it ended up being a double first attic truss (2 regular ones laminated together in the field) and laddering under the sheathing across the 3 foot opening. Then I just built a small landing at the top and installed a prebuilt 3 foot wide staircase. I added a small interior wall to support the inside edge of the staircase. I haven't completely figured out how to handle insulating/etc, but figure I will end up putting in an insulated door at the base of the steps.

 

[1320stang]

Man, my buddy has drop down stairs in his garage, they must be 30" wide, it's like a grand staircase. My drop downs are just the normal 16" wide or whatever.

 

[gcan]

Man, my buddy has drop down stairs in his garage, they must be 30" wide, it's like a grand staircase. My drop downs are just the normal 16" wide or whatever.

Where did he get them?

 

[1320stang]

Dunno, his builder put them in, but I know what lumber yard he used, I'll try and call them tomorrow.

 

[bubba]

Heres a set of 30" ones that I found at do it best website.....

http://doitbest.com/DoItBest/Main.aspx?PageID=64&SKU=166790

 

[gcan]

Thank you - that is great as far as a pull down goes and is what I may have to use but I was also hoping somebody would jump in if they had installed some type of compact stairs

Greg

 

[Junkman]

Pay attention to the load limit of the stairs. Some are rated very low, and are for light weight people at best. If you plan on carrying anything up the stairs, you have to add the weight of the item to your weight and make sure that you don't exceed the weight limit of the stairs. It is bad when you fall down the stairs, but it is worse, when the stairs collapse from under your feet. It isn't the fall that hurts, it is the sudden stop...

 

[Bib Overalls]

Stairs eat up a lot of space. Have you considered a ladder mounted to the wall? You could weld up something very stout from 1" rectangular tubing. Getting items up into your storage area is going to be an issue with stairs or a ladder. Consider a simple block and tackle over your access. With a little inginuity, you can build a trap door that will fit around your ladder risers.

 

[ScottC]

I am waffling between a 26x26 and 24x28 shop. What budget issues did you run into between the two sizes, since they're nearly the same square footage? Was it the fact that you waste wood with the 26' dimension (not multiple of 4')??

I'm also looking at attic trusses to gain some storage and avoid a center column. Do you know if you have an option on attic load rating? I'm wanting to store heavier items in the attic.

If you don't mind, what is your budget for the 24x28?

Thanks

 

[1320stang]

I call the lumber yard, they don't carry anything, they special order them, so likely the stairs came from somewhere else.

 

[Special55]

If you're looking for the best and have the attic height and space you may want to check this company out http://www.bessler.com/20to70.htm. I don't know anyone that has used them but they look well built. They just require allot of space to store.

Rich

 

[boiler7904]

Pay attention to the load limit of the stairs. Some are rated very low, and are for light weight people at best. If you plan on carrying anything up the stairs, you have to add the weight of the item to your weight and make sure that you don't exceed the weight limit of the stairs. It is bad when you fall down the stairs, but it is worse, when the stairs collapse from under your feet. It isn't the fall that hurts, it is the sudden stop...

It's not just the load limit but how they are attached to the framing as well that will affect load capacity.

During construction of our duplex, the attic ladder for the other half of the building fell out of the framing (with a carpenter on it) just before we had our pre-drywall walk through. As I was there waiting for the site superintendent to show up, the lead carpenter was adding nails to our ladder unit. Not exactly a warm fuzzy feeling.

 

[Junkman]

I have a friend that was having a rowdy party one night in his new home. Someone got pushed against the front wall of the house, and the drywall tore at the corner. The next day, the started to investigate, and found that the wall wasn't nailed in properly. He called the builder, who came over and cut the drywall off the wall ends. Found that it had just been tacked into place. He is now wondering how many other walls were not properly nailed. He sold the home after one year, since he was afraid that if he kept it, that it might turn into a money pit fixing other problems of poor craftsmanship.

 

[KCMongo]

Finally something I've dealt and have some good info on.
For my wife's greenhouse/backyard shed I built (16X16 with second floor on one half, shed side) I wanted something a little heavier duty than the usual wooden pull down stairs. I'm a big guy 6'4", 290#, I found this http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=3632-287-S2210&lpage=none

And have been pretty pleased with it I still have a door that opens up on the greenhouse side to winch heavy stuff up there (Engine's) , but if it's yard tools and little stuff I don't worry.

Years ago in my first house I had a wooden one break under me coming down the stairs, I caught the opening with my arms coming down but was pretty lucky I wasn't hurt much worse.

MONGO

 

[gcan]

Scott - the budget issue was with the 28x24 plan had a second floor upstairs which is what drove the cost up.

My garage will be brick, to match our house, which is a reason mine is expensive. I am paying $.41 per foot for the 26x26, that is with me insulating and finishing the interior. Had I gone with the 28x24 with the upstairs floored would have cost $4000 more again with me doing all finishing. The added cost was attributed to beefed up trusses, dormers, and stairs. I do not need more living space just storage which is why I am looking for easy access without losing floor space....which does not seem to go together.

Greg

 

[KGorney]

What about an exterior staricase on the back of the garage?

My garage is in the middle of construction right now. The second floor will have a 24 x 12 area with an 8 foot ceiling. Initially I am going with basic attic pull down stairs rated for 300#. In the near future though, I plan to add a staircase on the exterior wall which rises to a full walk in door on the second floor.

 

[cw_racefan]

The biggest reason I went with the fixed staircase I mentioned earlier was the width. I've run into a bunch of things that just won't fit through 22" pull down stairs. I sucked up the loss of floor space, and will use the area underneath for my compressor and storage. My garage is 32x36 though, so it wasn't too big a hit in comparison.

 

[Junkman]

What about an exterior staricase on the back of the garage?

My garage is in the middle of construction right now. The second floor will have a 24 x 12 area with an 8 foot ceiling. Initially I am going with basic attic pull down stairs rated for 300#. In the near future though, I plan to add a staircase on the exterior wall which rises to a full walk in door on the second floor.

An outside staircase with a lockable door is a great idea. Have them frame the opening for a 36" door, so it will be wide enough for anything you want to put up there. Also have the door hinge out, because it is much harder to break in a door that swings out.

 

[Morrisman]

Pay attention to the load limit of the stairs. Some are rated very low, and are for light weight people at best. If you plan on carrying anything up the stairs, you have to add the weight of the item to your weight and make sure that you don't exceed the weight limit of the stairs. It is bad when you fall down the stairs, but it is worse, when the stairs collapse from under your feet. It isn't the fall that hurts, it is the sudden stop...

We have a drop down ladder to our house attic, and I noticed it is rated to just 100kg (220lb) I am rather, er, 'close' to that limit, and it is pretty damn scary seeing how much this ally stair twists and bends when I climb it, and the small 16swg catch that supports the weight of the telescopic bit is looking weaker by the day.

I try not to imagine what it would feel like to fall down onto a pile of twisted bust up spiky aluminum ladder remains ....

 

[1320stang]

Werner makes a 350# capacity 30" wide wood folding stair for 8' or 10' ceilings. Lowe's carries Werner so they should be able to special order it. They also have 22.5" and 25" in the 350# series.

http://www.wernerladder.com/catalog/details.php?series_id=206

 

[MustangRick]

I have a permanent stair way right infront of my entrance door. I have thought about getting a fold down access ladder but my current steps are about 3' wide and I am having the same issue with width and load ratings.

I have contemplated the following to gain some more floor space and also to try and seal off the attic for heating. Position your side runner where you would have it, mount a vertical 2x6 half way (depth wise). Cut the runner vertical right in front of the vertical riser. This will now leave you with stairs that you would need to jump up half way to use. Now, hinge this removed stair way back where it was so that it will fold back onto the top part. This may be hard to picture, but if you can figure it out, you would use ~4' instead of ~8' for a stair way and the bottom part would flip up onto the top part to seal off the attic. The half way part may need to be adjusted to allow it to pivot with out hitting the ceiling.

Never tried this, allows wondered....

 

[gcan]

sorry but - what are you saying????

 

[MustangRick]

Kind of confusing? Pretty much, you have a normal stair case that the bottom half can fold up onto the top part. It would be permanently mounted so it would not have the strength issues.

Just something I have been thinking about, but don't want to cut up my stairs to try it out.

 

[Old Moparz]

My garage is an odd shape due to where I had to locate it on my property between the septic field & the property line. What this did to the layout & shape of the building gave me a spot along the rear wall to access the second floor with a "library ladder" set up. I found someone local selling a bunch of old, oak, library ladders, & bought 2 of them for $70 complete with handrails on them. You couldn't buy the oak to make them for that price, but you could improvise & use other wood, like 2x6's.

I have a loft style, storage shelf along a portion of the rear wall I can walk on & under. I used it as a landing between the 2 ladders & it's at a comfortable height. The ladders measure roughly 14" wide, & the treads are roughly 6" deep. The height was 11' tall, but you have to remember that it should extend through the opening to be safe. The upper one is attached to the framed opening with "L" shaped brackets, but the lower one has one lag bolt so I can move it if I need to.

Here's a few pics I have where you can see the layout & the 2 ladders.

First Floor:

Second Foor:

Library Ladders:

 

[Davey4000]

Re: Attic Access

I know this thread died a couple of weeks ago; however, during a search it came to my attention. I have been thinking about pull down stairs for my garage attic access myself, but when I went over to HD last week it occurred to me that the rolling stairs they use for pulling material from high shelves might not be a bad idea. Just push it over to the opening and bingo, you have stairs, and then push it out of the way when not needed. You could install a hinged “door” for the opening when not in use and simply push it open when you get to the top of the rolling stairs.

The 110” and 120” stairs you see on the internet are pretty pricey, but to me they would do the trick. I know the safety rail at the top is an OSHA requirement, but you could cut them off for this particular application since you would be entering the ceiling hatch once at that level.

Has anyone tried this?

 

[gcan]

the problem would be the limits due to the size and stability of rolling stairs. I am restoring a MGB and have the fenders and windshield in the second floor plus a couple of old dressers from our house..

I ended up going with standard stairs and loacated them at the back of the garage. Works great but lost cabinet and storage space for 1/2 of my back wall. I have my compressor under the stairs which is good but beyond that space lost to the steps is wasted.

As always I never thought I would use all the new space and now a 2 years later I wish I could add on to the garage.

 

[Joe Reed]

I'm in the minority....I prefer the pull-down stairs in a small garage - where every square inch is precious. In a bigger garage - or one with a much larger attic where you might store larger/heavier stuff - the fixed stairs would be great.

The stairs in my garage are rated at 300 lbs. I weight about 175....and there's no way I'm going to take anything up there that weighs 125 lbs! Maybe 20 years ago....but not now! You also have to consider how much you'll actually want to access the attic. If it's an everyday thing, fixed stairs would be a better idea but if, like me, you're only going up there occasionally...and only putting fairly small/lightweight stuff up there, I prefer to conserve floor and wall space in the garage.

Positioning of the stairs is important. Mine is located so that (1) I don't have to move the car to lower the stairs and (2) even with them down, I've got plenty of room to walk around them, work at the bench (out of the photo to the left), get to any tools, have access to the front of the car, etc. When they're up, I don't lose any square footage...and I don't lose any heat (or cooling) into the attic.

 

[rusty1]

I built a barn style storage building that has 11 foot tall walls, it has the regular 8 foot high ceiling in the bottom and the upper floor starts 3 feet below the eaves. This gives a nice sized upper storage area but also keeps the building lower overall. You don't need to stand up rite near the walls anyway, just thru the middle. I built a permanent stairway against one sidewall that's 4 feet wide. I have a "ton" of junk upstairs and every piece went up those stairs without a problem. I was going to ad a "hay mow" type door on a gable end to hoist up stuff but found I didn't really need it.

I know your building is different than mine, but the space taken up by the stairs is more than made up for with all the storage upstairs. You can also store lots of stuff under the stairs, or close it in and make cabinets/closets; so it's not all wasted space.

 

[henrybui]

gcan, i am looking into building another garage also when i get back from this deployment, and doing my research right now. i am looking at a 26x26 to 28x28 brick building as you with a loft. if you dont mind me asking, how much did you spend total ball park for the build, and all you did was the finishing touches correct?