Attic opening remodel

[heiner921]

Looking for Ideas to redo/ make this wall opening for going into an attic space a little more presentable. This thin panel is held on by 2 screws. Looking for nicer idea that will somewhat seal and will have to attach a section of batt insulationon the back of it *** well. Wont be going in attic space often (no storage in there) but do need to maintain the access point if needed.

Shoot me some ideas

 

[The Cobbler]

how wide is it? can you use a cut down door? glue styrofoam to the back side with weatherstripping as door stop. a regular passage set to hold it in place

 

[heiner921]

how wide is it? can you use a cut down door? glue styrofoam to the back side with weatherstripping as door stop. a regular passage set to hold it in place

About 16" wide. Just enough for me to squeeze in sideways

 

[2level]

I'd blend it in; make it so it doesn't stand out. Fill the gaps around the 'door' casing and paint the whole area, except the bottom few inches, the wall color.

 

[nmk_61802]

Hinges and a magnetic latch or just magnets without hinges?

Maybe even do a 2 level stated with just the magnets and remove the big casing and replace with a smaller corner molding

 

[The Cobbler]

if its that narrow I would widen it out while you're re vamping it. make it minimum 24" wide , use a flat panel interior slab door cut down with hinges & passage set . glue on some styrofoam to the backside .

or build a door with 2" styro core sandwiched between 2 door skins

 

[The Cobbler]

if you want a real flush passage set, use a mortise pocket door privacy set , they have basically a thumb turn recessed , mind you, it wont automatically latch like a regular passage set would , you would have to turn it to latch it shut

 

[rsanter]

Buy a solid core door and casing.
Cut to the desired height.

Frame it out and build a bookshelf on hinges to hide it

Install paneling on the wall and create a hidden door concealed by the paneling

Bob

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

There are a few companies and/or suppliers that make "kneewall doors". And I'm not talking about those cheesy plastic access panels. They're more like exterior doors (insulated, weatherstripped, full jamb, etc.) Anything else is a dollar slot machine you keep feeding to pay the fossil fuel bill.

I understand you want access- but the code was rewritten a few years ago that eliminated kneewall access if certain criteria was met- it the floor depth from the kneewall to the supporting exterior wall.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You could add some wainscoting to the wall with some trim to blend it in and hide it. Something like you see in fancy homes with the panels and trim.

 

[toolmiser]

What others have said is true. Run a piece of matching baseboard along the bottom and then a small piece of trim along the sides and top painting to match the wall. Right now the white painted trim makes it look like a picture.

 

[Zeke]

Make it wider as suggested if you're going to the trouble. Put the dresser in front. Go have a beer.

 

[Higgins]

Make the entrance wider, like 2 stud bays = ~32"

Build a plywood door and insulate the back to in swing into the attic.

Install Wainscotting on the wall. When you get to the opening do not secure the WS to the wall, but you can slide the pieces back in places between the other pieces...

 

[CraigStu]

I see no reason to go to the trouble of cutting studs and adding headers to make it wider. He says he only wants emergency access. I expect it is probably a hole in between two normally spaced studs. I'd put narrower trim on the wall. Get a piece of 1/2-5/8 MDF and cut a panel to fit the entire hole down to the floor. I'd put a piece of base molding on the bottom to match the rest of the wall. I'd put a piece of the opening trim up about 2 inches above the base. If you do the opening trim pieces w/ 45deg miter cuts you could attach the top and bottom pieces to the door panel and attach the vertical trims to the wall. The ends of the top and bottom trim would overlap onto the wall. This way your door panel could be pushed into the opening and it would stop moving when it is perfectly flush. It might need magnets to hold it or you could glue a piece of foam insulation board to the back of the door panel and make it just a touch too large so it's a tight enough fit to keep the door in place. Paint the base trim white like the rest of the room. Paint the 2 inch section between the base and bottom door trim wall color. Then either paint all the door including it's trims wall color or the trims white. A previous house we lived in had an almost identical access and it was all painted wall color.

 

[heiner921]

I see no reason to go to the trouble of cutting studs and adding headers to make it wider. He says he only wants emergency access. I expect it is probably a hole in between two normally spaced studs. I'd put narrower trim on the wall. Get a piece of 1/2-5/8 MDF and cut a panel to fit the entire hole down to the floor. I'd put a piece of base molding on the bottom to match the rest of the wall. I'd put a piece of the opening trim up about 2 inches above the base. If you do the opening trim pieces w/ 45deg miter cuts you could attach the top and bottom pieces to the door panel and attach the vertical trims to the wall. The ends of the top and bottom trim would overlap onto the wall. This way your door panel could be pushed into the opening and it would stop moving when it is perfectly flush. It might need magnets to hold it or you could glue a piece of foam insulation board to the back of the door panel and make it just a touch too large so it's a tight enough fit to keep the door in place. Paint the base trim white like the rest of the room. Paint the 2 inch section between the base and bottom door trim wall color. Then either paint all the door including it's trims wall color or the trims white. A previous house we lived in had an almost identical access and it was all painted wall color.

I think is is what I'll do. Why leave the 2 inches between base mold and opening trim?

I think my plan is to replicate this same trim, including a base trim which I have an extra section I can use from another project.


I plan to use a piece of drywall or should I use MDF?
painted to match the wall. Put trim on the door and what over hangs onto the wall, I'll put a small weather strip on to seal. and use rigid styrofoam on the back for insulation cut tight to fit the opening and hold it in place.

Or if it doesnt stay in place I will screw it right in place. I dont plan to ever go in the attic space unless I absolutely have to for wiring or maybe a critter (have had bats in there in the past, but fixed that issue already)

 

[Hobbit]

Google knee wall attic access door and you will find all the ideas you want to choose from.

 

[CraigStu]

... Why leave the 2 inches between base mold and opening trim?

Typically base trim is thinnest at it's top. Typically the bottom piece of trim around a frame is also thinnest at it's top so thickest at it's bottom. I thought it would look weird to have the fat bottom of the frame trim sitting on the thin top of the base trim. Maybe not, and moving the trim down would cover the two short vertical joints.