Attic Truss supports needed?

[Ryepsboe]

Hello guys,

I am in the process of insulating my 3 stall attached garage and am wondering if if I can remove the 2x2s as well as 2x4s you see in the picture that we’re used as holding the trusses when they built the house. It makes it easier for me with insulating and the main reason is I plan on having a small area for storage.

House was built in 96

Please reply if you actually have experience, I don’t want see ya I would leave them and you have no expierence in regards to my question.

Which one would you pick then:
A. Feel free to remove as many as you would like/all of them
B. Only remove the few you need to maneuver
C. Don’t remove any

Thanks guys!

 

[DCarr2]

DO NOT remove any. they are there as structural reinforcement, removing them can have catastrophic results.

If a builder can save $100 on wood, labor, he would. the cross bars help keep the trusses straight.

 

[p_mori7]

You cannot remove any of the 2x4's because they are integral to the structure of the trusses.

If you want a storage space up there, you will need to have the trusses redesigned and modified in place one by one.

 

[firebirdparts]

Just remove what you need to maneuver while there's not snow on the roof and put them back later. They are useful. That part of the truss is in compression, and it's compressed by the weight of whatever is on the roof. The 2x2's you are looking at give you some resistance to buckling.

 

[James-W]

If the 2X2's were added to maintain the appropriate truss spacing when the OSB was installed on the roof, then they are not structural and can be removed. No part of the truss or truss system can be removed without a loss to the structural integrity.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Just remove what you need to maneuver while there's not snow on the roof and put them back later. They are useful. That part of the truss is in compression, and it's compressed by the weight of whatever is on the roof. The 2x2's you are looking at give you some resistance to buckling.

CONCUR on both !

 

[brownbagg]

no, you cannot remove those

 

[Ryepsboe]

Thank you for the responses all, I thought I explained it good enough but maybe not, I am referring only to the 2x2's and 2x4's running perpendicular to the trusses, if you think i meant removing those 2x4's on a truss your a fool. It was never my intention to remove them all, just wanted to see some responses! I'm only going to remove and re position one or maybe two of them so I can easily move with whatever I may have in my hands at the time.

It totally makes sense when you talk about helping the resistance to buckling, thought if i re-positioned one of them it wouldn't be the end of the world

2nd Question/Feedback needed
my game plan is to build a small sub deck over the existing 2x4's I currently have R13 insulation rolls to go between what you see currently, then either:

Plan A
Add qty3 2x4, 2x6, or 2x8 (not sure on size yet depends on how much more insulation I want to add)shown by the red lines and then plywood ontop(orange line) with blown cellulose underneath.

Plan B
old man was talking about a Polystyrene insulation panel that is rated to walk on, could just put however many makes sense of those.

 

[DougWil]

Those 2xs were tacked on only to facilitate stabilizing the trusses to sheet the roof, they are not structural components.
And as poorly as they are fastened wouldn't do anything to prevent buckling, Compression blocking between trusses would, not just a nail here and there.

 

[wssix99]

Those 2xs were tacked on only to facilitate stabilizing the trusses to sheet the roof, they are not structural components.
And as poorly as they are fastened wouldn't do anything to prevent buckling, Compression blocking between trusses would, not just a nail here and there.

I agree. There are sometimes structural components that go across, but when/if you have them, they are one continuous piece of wood - not match sticks like you have.

 

[red61cj5]

The trusses should have come with paperwork including a bracing schedule. It is pretty easy to understand. If those members are not shown on there, they can be removed, assuming the bracing illustrated is in place. If those are regular "W" trusses, I think they might be necessary, though the installation is very sloppy.

 

[ripperd]

Are you sure your trusses are rated for anything more than drywall/insulation loads on the bottom chords? Those don't really look like storage trusses...

 

[APEowner]

..if you think i meant removing those 2x4's on a truss your a fool.

What's with insulting the people that you're trying to solicit free advice from? Even if you don't care about being rude that seems like a poor strategy for getting the most help.

The trusses should have come with paperwork including a bracing schedule. It is pretty easy to understand. If those members are not shown on there, they can be removed, assuming the bracing illustrated is in place. If those are regular "W" trusses, I think they might be necessary, though the installation is very sloppy.

This^^. Without actual documentation all anyone can do without reverse engineering the installation is give an educated guess.

Are you sure your trusses are rated for anything more than drywall/insulation loads on the bottom chords? Those don't really look like storage trusses...

This is an important question and I suspect that they're not rated for any additional load.

 

[GMCGarage]

Those 2xs were tacked on only to facilitate stabilizing the trusses to sheet the roof, they are not structural components.
And as poorly as they are fastened wouldn't do anything to prevent buckling, Compression blocking between trusses would, not just a nail here and there.

Not necessarily true. Even just connecting a couple webs together can prevent buckling. Bracing can be minimal, even only 10% of the web compression load.

OP should double check his truss design if he can get ahold of it to make sure.

 

[p_mori7]

if you think i meant removing those 2x4's on a truss your a fool.

2nd post and already insulting all those that you solicited advice from...I don't think we're the ones who are foolish here...

Not cool...

Perhaps if you had explained better the first time...

 

[Ryepsboe]

2nd post and already insulting all those that you solicited advice from...I don't think we're the ones who are foolish here...

Not cool...

Perhaps if you had explained better the first time...

please do not add fuel to the fire with your last line

low blow by me, caught up in this, you have my apologizes.

 

[Ryepsboe]

Truss Design is modified queen post
referencing:
http://www.mitek-us.com/uploadedFil...TECH2- wyntk- Truss facts for eng and arc.pdf


As far as storage I am just going to put light things up there (Christmas tree, plastic chairs, fall décor) I'll keep my bowling ball collection in the basement

adding 2x4 to run perpendicular will help evenly distribute the weight over the trusses

This seemed like a decent read in regards to my situation:
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=261461

10psf is what I believe a chord holds in my situation. That is awfully light!

 

[RocketScott]

It would be best to find the paperwork that came with the trusses. They will specify what cross bracing is needed.

Barring that:

Those 2x2s were more than likely put on when the trusses were rolled. If a cross brace was called out in that location it should have be 2x4s that connect at least 4 trusses.

The 2x4 on the bottom cord can probably be removed since you have drywall on the underside of the truss. Usually the truss manf. specifies rat run at a certain interval OR "rigid ceiling directly applied". Although the area over living space should have at least 12" of insulation so you wouldn't want to put sheeting down right on the bottom cord anyway.

 

[6768rogues]

Some truss webs are in tension and some are in compression. The webs in tension are being stretched by the loads imposed on them, and they do not need bracing. The webs in compression do need bracing, because they can buckle. You cannot tell by looking at them which are in tension and which are in compression. The original truss plan would show where to place bracing, and it would be on the compression webs.
Don't remove any bracing without having professional advice.

 

[SH7mi]

As some have replied, those 2x2s were installed as trusses were set to maintain layout and TEMPORARY stability. There would be lateral bracing installed at that location on the chord, typically 2x4 run gable to gable. Also vertical diagonal bracing which does not appear in the picture. You could temporarily remove some to lay the insulation, but you should install 2x4s, the maximum length you can get into the attic as a permanent replacement.

 

[GMCGarage]

Hard to tell from the pic, but do the opposite side webs of the truss have the braces, or just one position? If only on one web, changes are they are just temporary. If both have them, could be to stop buckling of that long web.

Bigger question I may have missed, how do you account for the truss being able to hold more weight than currently is there?

 

[Ryepsboe]

Hard to tell from the pic, but do the opposite side webs of the truss have the braces, or just one position? If only on one web, changes are they are just temporary. If both have them, could be to stop buckling of that long web.

Bigger question I may have missed, how do you account for the truss being able to hold more weight than currently is there?

Similar braces on the other side, but it looks equally as ugly or not thought out, like they were for consctuction purpose.

I’m basing the ability to put a small amount of weight up there 200lbs, since I had myself another 200lb man up there at the same time, and also taking a educated guess there were several men being supported by the trusses during consctruction. Smart placement (I’ll see if I can go Gable to gable) and 2x4s running perpendicular to help distribut the weight will help.

 

[DougWil]

Not necessarily true. Even just connecting a couple webs together can prevent buckling. Bracing can be minimal, even only 10% of the web compression load.

One nail in shear, located near the end has very little capacity.
Plus the bracing isn't even continuous.


That bracing was clearly not installed as permanent structural bracing.