AussieDan's simple storage cabinets

[67carl]

Really nice, I did almost the same but used melamine for the face frames and doors.

Love that Kramer painting! Nice cabinets too!

 

[Frank Dukes]

impressive cabinets with little waste! i will be attempting this next spring to replace some shoddy old metal shelves for sure. nicely done. thanks for taking the time to explain it all.

 

[zzflattop]

VERY nice!!!!!

 

[leiterch]

Adding this to my wish list.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[AussieDan]

Very neat, those came out great!

I was going to build some wall cabinets via the same method, but then I came across some matching cabinets on CL.



I have most of my junk reorganized now, just have to wrap up a couple of under-cabinet lights and figure out what to do with some of the larger stuff that doesn't fit in the cabinets.

 

[dgbdman]

i need some cabinets like that

 

[over40pirate]

Aussie Dan. Just wondering if you could give your source for the full overlay hinges for $1 ?
Thanks

 

[ElDuderino]

Really nice, I did almost the same but used melamine for the face frames and doors.

What do you think your total cost was?

Nice job btw!

 

[AussieDan]

Aussie Dan. Just wondering if you could give your source for the full overlay hinges for $1 ?
Thanks

quantumhardwareofconcord on eBay.

I'm planning a set of drawers to go under the benchtop CNC machine (converted G0704) I just picked up. Once things are a little further along I'll update the thread with some details.

 

[jmiller_2308]

Really nice, I did almost the same but used melamine for the face frames and doors.

Your cabinets appear to be a bit different in design from Aussie Dans.

It looks like instead of building 3 separate cabinets and then joining them that you made one big cabinet. The tell is in the single plywood separating the spaces vs. the double that Aussie Dan did.

I was thinking about trying to save a sheet by doing the same but I wondered how, or if, you bolted the shelves to the uprights? Did you use a biscuit or other fastener?

 

[AussieDan]

You could definitely do it that way using the kreg jig, since all the screws go in from underneath the shelves. I doubled up because it made the whole thing easier both in the design and in being able to muscle each unit by myself. If you wanted to save some plywood you could build 2 units following my design, then cut a set of shelves 1.5" longer to go in the middle, and shim out the hinges for the middle set of doors by 3/4". Getting them on the wall might be a bit of an adventure, but could be done by fixing on of the "side" cabinets to the wall, then clamping 2x4 or similar lumber to it so you can sit the other complete unit in place and screw in at least the top and bottom of the "middle" section before finally fixing it all to the wall.

As soon as I can find time I'm going to be turning another stack of plywood (sanded pine for the carcass this time since maple has gone up) into a matching cabinet to go under the table for my mini cnc mill. Plan is to have 4 shallow drawers for endmills and other small tooling, plus 2 deeper drawers for larger gear (still need to measure the 4th axis to make sure it'll fit) and a space for the PC and motion controller boxes. I'll be sure to post pics once there's something to see!

 

[jmiller_2308]

Thanks for the feedback. I'd forgotten about the overlapping doors and I was already wondering how I would lift an 8'x8' set of cabinets onto the wall. I figure I'll just eat another sheet of plywood and make 3 individual cabinets and bolt them together like you did.

Any opinions on using melamine instead of plywood for the outside and doors? I'd still stick with plywood for the shelves but around here melamine is half the cost of plywood and a white finish would reflect light well.

 

[RoyBell]

Very cool! I need to get one of those jigs.

Maybe I missed it, but how do you ensure all the shelves are the same exactly width when cutting? I've done shelves before and this is my hardest part. No matter how many times I measure and double check, it seems one or two are always a hair off.

For slab doors I usually see some 1x on the back side to strengthen it up and help prevent warping. I suppose if you have access to some steel you could some strips of that as well.

For poly, I got a cheap spray gun from harbor freight. You can thin it a bit with some thinner or naptha and sand between coats to remove imperfections. This method reduces the runs you sometimes get with a brush, along with no brush strokes. Plus, who doesn't like using air tools.

 

[AussieDan]

Thanks for the feedback. I'd forgotten about the overlapping doors and I was already wondering how I would lift an 8'x8' set of cabinets onto the wall. I figure I'll just eat another sheet of plywood and make 3 individual cabinets and bolt them together like you did.

Yup, it definitely makes things easier, you do need to finesse the doors a little to make sure you have even gaps but other than that you're also able to save time because you're making 3 identical units.

Any opinions on using melamine instead of plywood for the outside and doors? I'd still stick with plywood for the shelves but around here melamine is half the cost of plywood and a white finish would reflect light well.

Lots of cabinets have been built out of it, for doors it will probably stay more flat than plywood which can warp a little. Don't get it wet! You'll also want to pick up a roll of edge banding to finish the cut edges.

Very cool! I need to get one of those jigs.

I was skeptical at first but I'm definitely a Kreg convert now, it does make it very easy.

Maybe I missed it, but how do you ensure all the shelves are the same exactly width when cutting? I've done shelves before and this is my hardest part. No matter how many times I measure and double check, it seems one or two are always a hair off.

Yeah, I use a track saw to cut all the parts which makes it easier (though not exactly easy!) to get them all the same size. It's definitely much more accurate than just running a circular saw along a straightedge. Also don't assume that the sheets of plywood are cut square. Make sure you have a good blade too, I've been using a Diablo 7 1/4" 40 tooth finish blade and have been very happy with it, but I'd like to try their 60 tooth ultra finish blade.

For slab doors I usually see some 1x on the back side to strengthen it up and help prevent warping. I suppose if you have access to some steel you could some strips of that as well.

Yup, you could definitely do that, just have to hold the front of the shelves back 3/4" to make room for the strapping. If I were building a closet or something I'd definitely want to stiffen the doors up, but in that case I'd most likely build paneled doors. For the garage the plywood doors are fine (mine are flat to within 1/8" or so), I did put 4 hinges on each door which seems to help keep them flat.

For poly, I got a cheap spray gun from harbor freight. You can thin it a bit with some thinner or naptha and sand between coats to remove imperfections. This method reduces the runs you sometimes get with a brush, along with no brush strokes. Plus, who doesn't like using air tools.

Good idea, I might have to give that a shot since I still haven't gotten around to putting poly on mine, seems like there are always more interesting jobs to do! I know I'm going to need to poly the cnc cabinet so I'll probably hit the storage cabinet doors at the same time. Unloading the cabinets to hit the interior is definitely more effort than I'm willing to go to right now.

 

[RoyBell]

Yeah, I use a track saw to cut all the parts which makes it easier (though not exactly easy!) to get them all the same size. It's definitely much more accurate than just running a circular saw along a straightedge. Also don't assume that the sheets of plywood are cut square. Make sure you have a good blade too, I've been using a Diablo 7 1/4" 40 tooth finish blade and have been very happy with it, but I'd like to try their 60 tooth ultra finish blade.

I just looked up a track saw. Didn't even know those existed. I usually just clamp a 2x4 or a piece or base and run my circular saw along that. I run the same blade with good results. I have a 60-70 tooth I used when building my bar, but haven't used it since. The 40 tooth has done well for what I have needed.

 

[KDXSR5]

I am digging these cabinets. Do you ever wish that they had a backboard in them?

 

[AussieDan]

I just looked up a track saw. Didn't even know those existed. I usually just clamp a 2x4 or a piece or base and run my circular saw along that. I run the same blade with good results. I have a 60-70 tooth I used when building my bar, but haven't used it since. The 40 tooth has done well for what I have needed.

Yeah, the 40t will cut faster but the finish blade will give a much nicer cut with no chipping or tear-out in the plywood. The system I use isn't as fancy as the festool track saw etc, but does a pretty good job as long as you make sure you're holding the saw level and not letting it sag. EZ-smart looks like the prices have gone up since I bought mine.

I am digging these cabinets. Do you ever wish that they had a backboard in them?

Nope. They're screwed to the wall so the drywall forms the back of the cabinet. You could easily stick a thin sheet on the back if you were going to build a freestanding version.

 

[rayra]

The melamine material works great, I've used it with success on counter and workbench tops as well, stands up well to regular use and all sort of fluids. Easy cleanup. Stands up to alcohol and acetone too, if you really need to clean some stain off. It also makes a good whiteboard or dry erase, for jotting notes or doing some quick math.

 

[KDXSR5]

So I am slowly gathering up tools and supplies to complete my first set of these cabinets. My wife and I just bought our first house, so we are trying to do budget upgrades such as these garage cabinets. I have little wood working experience, since I typically work with metal. This leaves me with a couple of questions regarding tools:

I do not have a table saw or a track saw. All I have is a 7 1/4" circular saw. Will this be adaquate to build these cabinets with a custom jig? I plan on buying a 60t blade if that matters for this question.

Would I be able to get away with using the Kreg R3 Jig? Or do I really need to step up to the Kreg K4 or K5 Jig? I am trying to keep this a mote budget friendly build. Thanks.

 

[Slednut]

Your cabinets appear to be a bit different in design from Aussie Dans.

It looks like instead of building 3 separate cabinets and then joining them that you made one big cabinet. The tell is in the single plywood separating the spaces vs. the double that Aussie Dan did.

I was thinking about trying to save a sheet by doing the same but I wondered how, or if, you bolted the shelves to the uprights? Did you use a biscuit or other fastener?

I didn't use any fasteners for the shelf unit, I cut dados into the material using a jig I made that quickly clamps into place. I use an undersized router bit (see below) to make perfect dados. I then glue and use many clamps to make the joints.

I did use masonite to back the cabinets which makes it easy to true everything up before installing the face frames and doors. I use biscuits for the face frame which is glued and nailed into place with 18 gauge brads. For garage cabinets I paint the edges of the melamine rather than using iron on banding tape.

Using melamine for the doors is nice because if one gets banged up I can simply cut a new one, paint the edges and screw into place. The shelves are 15" x 48", total height is 86", I would have made them 96" high but the garage door hardware was in the way.

Here are a couple pictures of my bench which has been moved because of an addition I did to my garage. It was built just like Aussiedan's cabinets but again I used melamine for the face frames and doors.

http://www.rockler.com/undersized-plywood-router-bit-set

 

[wideopen1967]

Subscribed

 

[jmiller_2308]

After slowly collecting parts on sale I finally did my version of AussieDan's cabinet. I'm not normally a wood worker so I thought I'd provide some lessons learned in case others of my ilk try this.

Size and materials matter.
I wanted something taller than normal and also 8' wide. Instead of the 3 cabinets AussieDan made, I decided to make one big cabinet 16" deep with an 8' length split into three uprights. This allowed me to rip 2 uprights/top/bottom from a sheet and the remaining piece was almost exactly the correct size for the doors. I was able to make the frame and doors from 4 4x8 sheets of 11 ply plywood that had red oak on one side and luan on the other. Plywood was on sale for $38 with an additional 11% rebate so pretty cheap. The plywood was unfortunately a little curled when I got it and that is visible in the doors. It is fine for my garage though

I could have, and probably should have, bought more plywood to make the shelves but I was also able to get 16x3/4x8' bull nose melamine shelving for $9 a piece so I decide to go with that instead. I like its look and it cleans easily but it seems a little less durable than plywood would have been, and in fact, I put a pocket screw through one when the clutch on my screw gun was a bit too strong.

Hinges came via ebay and after adding screws were less than $1 a piece. I also really didn't fully comprehend full vs. half overlap. I ended up ordering half overlap which ultimately pushed me to the single big cabinet solution instead of 3 individual cabinets. I used 4 hinges per door.

Door handles came in at $2 a piece. Other materials for blocking etc. were in my pile already.

Total cost was just under $300

Gotta have tools:
I don't have a table saw and hate the cheap aluminum guide I got from my parents house when we cleaned it out. After looking at articles online I decided to build my own rip fence by screwing aluminum channel to a piece of plywood. I used a long level to ensure the channel didn't deflect while screwing it in. I then used my circular saw with a 60 tooth blade to rip the plywood so that it I could then place the plywood where I wanted to cut and know it was in the right spot without having to measure - wish I would have done that a long time ago. It worked great except that I decided to rip the other side of the fence for the short side of my saw - big mistake. This resulted in me having issues with clamps getting in the way and cause a few miss-cuts.

The hinges from ebay didn't come with a template so I used scrap and drilled a series of holes that were 1/8" further from the edge until I finally figured out the correct depth from the edge to drill the cup. I than used some left over plastic that I drilled to create a tool for lining up the hinges.

I used my drill press for the templates but I couldn't wield 8' doors around and safely work the press. Luckily for me I had a drill alignment tool that I was able to use when I drilled the doors. Alternatively, I really think the router template that another used would have been better.

Rookie mistakes

• I mentioned clamps getting in the way. Rookie move 101, always be sure that your work area is free of obstructions (DOH!)
• Check your tools before each cut. My drill alignment tool has a stop on it that came loose and I ended up drilling through one of the doors
• My hinge pattern marked the door with 3 dots; one for the cup and 2 for the screws. Old eyes, poor light, and repetition got to me and I ended up drilling a cup using the wrong dot. From then on I circled the cup dot.
• Measure once for a pattern and then use it. When lining up the uprights I started by measuring and that was a big mistake. Once I cut a 2x4 to the correct size I was able to easily line everything up in exactly the correct spot. I wish I would have figured that out earlier in the cutting process.
• When putting your hinges on, be sure they don't lie exactly where you just put the shelf - DOH!
• Finish before assembly, well, at least for the doors. With everything assembled it is really hard to finish the lap sided door surfaces.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

Rookie mistakes

• I mentioned clamps getting in the way. Rookie move 101, always be sure that your work area is free of obstructions (DOH!)
• Check your tools before each cut. My drill alignment tool has a stop on it that came loose and I ended up drilling through one of the doors
• My hinge pattern marked the door with 3 dots; one for the cup and 2 for the screws. Old eyes, poor light, and repetition got to me and I ended up drilling a cup using the wrong dot. From then on I circled the cup dot.
• Measure once for a pattern and then use it. When lining up the uprights I started by measuring and that was a big mistake. Once I cut a 2x4 to the correct size I was able to easily line everything up in exactly the correct spot. I wish I would have figured that out earlier in the cutting process.
• When putting your hinges on, be sure they don't lie exactly where you just put the shelf - DOH!
• Finish before assembly, well, at least for the doors. With everything assembled it is really hard to finish the lap sided door surfaces.

Rookie mistake happen - even when you are no longer a rookie! DAMHIKT

The challenge is only to make rookie mistakes 3 or 4 times . . .

Thanks for posting your project.

Cheers

Jim

 

[KMdef9]

First off, great work guys and thanks for sharing!

Secondly, threads like these are what makes this site great. It would be awesome if Mods could sticky all of these how-to's in one dedicated section.

 

[pj_agni]

Impressive and creative. I do have a question. From 2 Plywood sheets you cut two doors of 20" wide. In the picture, it shoes total 6 doors (2 per cabinet).

What am I missing?

 

[AussieDan]

Each cabinet is cut from 2 sheets of plywood, to get 3 cabinets you'll need 6 sheets.