Auto AC question

[messar]

2013 BMW 528 - was driving along, and the engine stalled (and I think I heard a pfffft sound). When I restarted, no AC at all. Brought the car home and parked it.

I checked pressures a few days later, and the system had bled down to 0 pressure. I added a minimum of 134a, and did a leak check - the leak is in the front of the compressor. It does not appear to build pressure (I don't really want to fill the whole system enough to test it since the freon will just leak out).

Questions:
-Any thoughts on what happened?
-I'm obviously replacing the compressor - what else should I consider replacing? (I'm thinking condenser if there is a chance there are pieces of compressor in the systems).

Thanks,

matt

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Sounds like the compressor seized and the shaft seal went. At a minimum you'll need the new compressor and receiver/drier if the compressor did not pump shrapnel through the system. OEM parts won't be cheap. Plan on about $1200.00 if you go OEM. If you do have evidence of **** in the system, you'll need to flush the evaporator (some cars have two evaporators, you'll need to flush both), flush the condenser and replace the metering device(s), too.

Tommy

 

[JimRB]

My VW uses a Sanden compressor. Sanden is a Japanese company. The compressor was not all that much, maybe $300. Chances are BMW does not make their own compressors.

 

[FastKat]

Agreed. Compressor + receiver-drier. Also, I strongly suggest having someone with a good automotive A.C. service machine **** down your system and recharge it by weight. I think the newer vacuum systems do this without removing or redistributing the oil throughout the AC system.

Speaking of oil, make sure your new components have the proper amount. Often the ship with the correct amount and that will be noted on the package. If not add the correct amount of the correct oil.

Sounds like the compressor seized and the shaft seal went. At a minimum you'll need the new compressor and receiver/drier if the compressor did not pump shrapnel through the system. OEM parts won't be cheap. Plan on about $1200.00 if you go OEM. If you do have evidence of **** in the system, you'll need to flush the evaporator (some cars have two evaporators, you'll need to flush both), flush the condenser and replace the metering device(s), too.

Tommy

 

[Milton Shaw]

I have had cars with multi-path condensers that could not be flushed out. They have to be replaced so check yours out. Does one tube run side to side and back and forth or do several tubes split and do that. Agree that compressor, receiver dryer/accumulator and metering device have to be replaced. Also oil charge needs to be right or problems with continue.

 

[messar]

Thanks to all for the responses.
-I'd planned on replacing the dryer, which appears to be a cartridge that goes into the condenser (as far as I can tell from looking at the parts diagrams - teardown will confirm).
-Condenser will be on the shopping list, as well as metering device.
-I'll be buying a vac pump to pump the system down, and will flush with Argon (I have argon handy, otherwise would use nitrogen).
-Charge will be by weight.
-The service manual calls out the correct amounts of oil to add when components are replaced, so will follow that.

Thanks,

matt

 

[LS6 Tommy]

If there's debris in the system, compressed gas won't do it. You'll need to use an approved liquid flush. I should have also said to replace the condenser instead of trying to flush it. On the modern condensers flushing is almost completely ineffective after a compressor failure.

Tommy

 

[86turbodsl]

I'm not saying to do this as it's extremely dangerous, but in the past, poorer days i have flushed condensers out using liquid propane from a bbq gas bottle. The lpg flashes to gas until the whole condenser is down to -44F and then liquid exits blowing all the **** out. I always flushed ONLY the condenser though. Then replaced all the oil and with new parts everything was functional.