Auto Battery Cable Repair

[wyliesdiesels]

@wyliesdiesels if you look closely inside your relay box , there should be a bus bar in there [you could join 2 cables there, bolted to the bus bar]

unfortunately that is no the case here. one of them goes to the starter with a special proprietary connector and the other one goes to a bus bar below the fuse block that is also a proprietary setup.

I could probably switch the fuse block cable to a ring type terminal but the starter motor cable isnt gonna work that way so i will have to splice it.

i will post pics tomorrow

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I agree, I won't replace the battery connectors, just replace the whole assembly to avoid future problems, the OP's issues are a bit more involved.

as much as id like to, not gonna happen with the starter cable. its a special connector.

 

[Bert_]

wont work for fine stranded automotive wire

Not rated for and won't work are two very different things. The inspector ain't going to fail you for it

I can be a bit of a perfectionist at times on customer work. But on my own stuff? Don't let perfection get in the way of getting it done!

If you want a cheap repair, these would be my options. First choice, H crimp. Then split bolts. Finally the Polaris type connector.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Not rated for and won't work are two very different things. The inspector ain't going to fail you for it

I can be a bit of a perfectionist at times on customer work. But on my own stuff? Don't let perfection get in the way of getting it done!

If you want a cheap repair, these would be my options. First choice, H crimp. Then split bolts. Finally the Polaris type connector.

except this isnt a car i drive. if it catches on fire while an employee is driving it im gonna have problems

 

[Wrench97]

Barrel crimp and shrink tube it or replace the cable, the special ends and extra connections is what makes it a harness in automotive.

 

[Bert_]

except this isnt a car i drive. if it catches on fire while an employee is driving it im gonna have problems

Then replacing the cable is the only option. I don't think the car manufacturer will recommend any repair to the cable.

 

[Dagny]

Theres always solder and rubber tape A blue wire nut would work for a while. depends how bad you need it.

Why do the make stuff like this?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Then replacing the cable is the only option. I don't think the car manufacturer will recommend any repair to the cable.

not gonna happen for the starter cable unless i can find a junked car. special connector on the end...

 

[Bert_]

not gonna happen for the starter cable unless i can find a junked car. special connector on the end...

So unrepairable, unreplaceable cable? What's the solution, junk the car?

 

[Junkman]

Check your local salvage yard to get the correct battery terminal end. Every time a car is involved in a front engine collision, it seems like the fire department cuts the positive cable to the battery, or sometimes they cut both cables. I would have to believe that they don't bother to take the terminal ends off of damaged batteries, and if the battery is still good, then they many times throw the cut off end into the car or a pail of copper for scrapping. I had a similar problem, and I filled the copper wire with rosin core solder at both ends, and then put a but splice onto the two ends, crimped, and covered with shrink tubing. The most important thing is to keep the moisture out of the connection. Good luck with fixing this, and thanks for all you help to me in the past. Junkman

 

[PCustoms]

Man, almost 5 months later and this still isn't fixed?

 

[bbrins]

Wal-Mart sells battery cable savers, their website even says that they are in stock in Ceres. I've used them on a few vehicles where the terminals were corroded all to heck, and the cables were too short to just put a new terminal on the end, and it wasn't worth the headache or the money to deal with replacing a harness.

 

[JohnX14]

I figured that by now, you'd have just settled on the good ole romex connector splice, with tape of course.

Kidding, of course. I don't have any better advice than what's been offered. The fact that others will be driving it would be a big concern, which you already acknowledged. I'd have no issue using pro-press or other crimp fittings, if it were my own vehicle.

 

[wazzabie]

Looking for a splice kit or connector to repair the battery cables in a vehicle.

Some Ahole decided to steal the battery (as well as smash out a window, slash the tires, and steal 3 spark plug wires) and while doing so just cut the battery cables.

These are fairly large (dont know what gauge) and the local auto parts stores did not have anything. neither does amazon, unless im not searching correctly

what do you recommend? Im ok with a large **** splice with heat shrink....

Go to pick n pull junk yard and pull what you need. There are several in California.

 

[mikepelchy]

not gonna happen for the starter cable unless i can find a junked car. special connector on the end...

What kind of vehicle is this? What is so special about the connector on the end?

 

[Firebrick43]

What kind of vehicle is this? What is so special about the connector on the end?

Looks to be a 2005 - 2007 ford taurus.

Quickcable 6406FL terminal will probably work.

1/4" od copper tube with .035" also makes nice terminals if custom longer ones are needed. Use a press to flatten one end and solder it together. Drill your 8mm stud hole, bend and then crimp onto the wire.

The stupid looking plastic piece on the OEM Cable is just to keep the oil filter from falling off and shorting out when removed and klutz drops it. Most silicone terminal boots will wrap around a 90 degree lug sufficiently.

 

[Codyboy]

Not rated for and won't work are two very different things. The inspector ain't going to fail you for it

I can be a bit of a perfectionist at times on customer work. But on my own stuff? Don't let perfection get in the way of getting it done!

If you want a cheap repair, these would be my options. First choice, H crimp. Then split bolts. Finally the Polaris type connector.

If those are your choices , you're not allowed to touch my vehicles.

 

[Codyboy]

I figured that by now, you'd have just settled on the good ole romex connector splice, with tape of course.

Kidding, of course. I don't have any better advice than what's been offered. The fact that others will be driving it would be a big concern, which you already acknowledged. I'd have no issue using pro-press or other crimp fittings, if it were my own vehicle.

Good grief. Ive seen some janky connections before but thats a whole different kind of stupid .
"I'll take 'burned up appliances' for $500 Alex"

 

[Codyboy]

Barrel crimp and shrink tube it or replace the cable, the special ends and extra connections is what makes it a harness in automotive.

This. Crimp and solder.

I had to replace the terminal end on our suburban. It was the cable that runs from the terminal block on the firewall to the opposite side.
The only thing I could find was some 3/8 copper tubing.
So I made my own terminal by flattening out one end and drilled a hole. Inserted the cable in the open end and soldered it then heat shrink. Been holding good for about 5 years now.

 

[Bert_]

This. Crimp and solder.

I had to replace the terminal end on our suburban. It was the cable that runs from the terminal block on the firewall to the opposite side.
The only thing I could find was some 3/8 copper tubing.
So I made my own terminal by flattening out one end and drilled a hole. Inserted the cable in the open end and soldered it then heat shrink. Been holding good for about 5 years now.

I used to buy into the solder idea. A proper crimp is a better connection. But, if you don't have a tool to crimp, your options become limited.

Just the other day I crimped some 1/0 welding cable into an Anderson connector. It's capable of a continuous 180A load. I do not expect any issues.

 

[pbon]

BMW did a battery cable recall on my 2008 M3 and the repair was a crimp and splice. This was not on the battery cable in the trunk (battery in trunk) or on the alternator cable in the engine compartment but it was on the main power cable from the battery to the passenger compartment distribution box. The cable looked like 2 gauge to me.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCMN-19V472-7907.pdf

Someone took a picture of the dealer repair and it is clearly a crimp and splice with heat shrink. See picture 5 posts down in this thread:

battery cable recall?

battery cable recall? - Page 3

www.m3post.com

I see no reason why this cannot be done in the engine compartment where there is potentially water exposure as well as more heat. I would do it without worry on my car.

 

[BurtEggley]

most of the cables for those Fords are around $100 - $120.

 

[pbon]

Need to DIY a fix here so that $100 can be saved for more new or used tools.

 

[BurtEggley]

Need to DIY a fix here so that $100 can be saved for more new or used tools.

until we have a make, model and year, it is hard to give a definitive answer. And for all we know, Wylie took care of this last year, and now someone has hacked his account and reopened the thread.

 

[pbon]

until we have a make, model and year, it is hard to give a definitive answer

That is what the kids in the auto parts stores say when you ask them anything

 

[wyliesdiesels]

until we have a make, model and year, it is hard to give a definitive answer. And for all we know, Wylie took care of this last year, and now someone has hacked his account and reopened the thread.

nobody hacked my account

I havent fixed it yet. too busy with work and another auto project rebuilding suspension and steering on a van...