Auto bay sizing, with a lift

[PNWguy]

I've searched, but haven't found the answers I'm looking for. Hopefully I didn't miss the thread.

I'm designing a new shop space, and a portion of it will be 40' x 25'. I am planning to cut the space in half with a wall, so I have a 20' x 25' for auto work with a 2 post lift. I'm doing this for fun, and don't have customers or employees.

My single cab longbed truck (18 or 19') will be a little crowded in a 25' long bay, but one end will be the roll up door and the other end will open into the main shop space. I don't think length will be an issue.

How crowded do you think 20' wide is for working on cars? There will be a bench, but the tools will be on wheels or in a different room. The truck is 80" (6' 6") wide without mirrors. If the lift is centered in the bay, with a door open, there should be plenty of room to get around it. I can arrange the workbenches and tools so there's clear space around the doors.

I know the easy answer is "make it bigger". In this case it isn't easy unless I give up other shop areas that I care about. I just don't have unlimited space.

I've only ever worked in my driveway, so I really have no idea what it's like to have walls (or a flat floor, or heat, or a roof, or a lift, or good lighting and all that other cool stuff). It seems like it should be fine, but I'd rather check now.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The problem I see is the future and what you'll be driving. Will the truck sit centered on the lift or will it be offset ?

What if you buy a larger truck and it's longer to the point, it won't fit on the lift ?

 

[ptschram]

The bay with my lift in it, and only my lift is 16X35. I'm cramped in all directions and have my toolboxes in a "room" off to the side.

My shop is in an ag barn begun in 1862, I wouldn't swap it for anything but it is not well suited to my needs as its carved up every which way and not all concrete, but it has character and romance and it's mine.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

here's a rough sketch of where I've placed my lift.

the 70" off the wall is ok, I have tool boxes all along that side.
so I'm 17'-5" to the far side of my lift. and it's worked out good.

 

[PNWguy]

The problem I see is the future and what you'll be driving. Will the truck sit centered on the lift or will it be offset ?

What if you buy a larger truck and it's longer to the point, it won't fit on the lift ?

It's a longbed already. I'm not having kids, and I don't want a crew cab. SO i should be safe on length. I may swap the bed for a flatbed, but it'll only add 1 or 2'. The bay will be short; there's no denying. But every foot of length of the bay will reduce the length of the main shop where the tools live.

The fore/aft placement of the lift will be really important.

 

[PNWguy]

My shop is in an ag barn begun in 1862, I wouldn't swap it for anything but it is not well suited to my needs as its carved up every which way and not all concrete, but it has character and romance and it's mine.

1862? We just don't have building like that out west. It sounds pretty cool even if it's not the perfect layout.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

Your at 10'-0" to center I think you will be ok, I'm at about 11'-8" to center.
here's what 11'-8" looks like, so you can visualize if you moved the lift 20" closer to the wall.

 

[PNWguy]

Your at 10'-0" to center I think you will be ok, I'm at about 11'-8" to center.
here's what 11'-8" looks like, so you can visualize if you moved the lift 20" closer to the wall.

Thanks for the photo - super helpful.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

your welcome, here's a couple more pic's of my f250 7.3 long bed.
it's probably close in size to your truck, you can see there's plenty of room on the sides to work on it

 

[cvairwerks]

Park the truck, then open the doors fully. Measure 3 feet out from each door. Thats as close as you want anything to the vehicle unless you have to limit the bay width. The 3 foot line should be clear of tool boxes, walls, machinery, ect.

 

[matt_i]

My free suggestion would be to not build the interior partition. It adds cost for framing, wall covering, and doors, and can be a problem for future layout changes.

 

[ptschram]

1862? We just don't have building like that out west. It sounds pretty cool even if it's not the perfect layout.

That is why I live with it, haven't insulated it and pretty much leave it as it is, but I do plan to add another door and replace much of the concrete.

The concrete with livestock footprints will be given a place in the yard somewhere is it is too cool to me.

 

[PNWguy]

My free suggestion would be to not build the interior partition. It adds cost for framing, wall covering, and doors, and can be a problem for future layout changes.

There's going to be a woodshop on the other side of the partition. The wall is to keep the wood dust & car stuff in their own spaces.

It's also the reason that I can't just make the space wider. Every extra inch of car space comes from the woodshop.

I'm super happy to be able to build the shop I want (52x40), plus an attached living space, but I can't just keep making it bigger and bigger.

 

[PNWguy]

your welcome, here's a couple more pic's of my f250 7.3 long bed.
it's probably close in size to your truck, you can see there's plenty of room on the sides to work on it

Again, super helpful.

That might be a bit longer than my truck, but not by much. Ram doesn't offer a slightly extended cab. If you want an 8' bed, you get 2 doors and a reasonable size truck, or 4 doors and the turning radius of a cruise ship. I had an '08 F150 that had 18" door behind the regular doors, so there was enough room behind the seats for clean, dry, safe storage. I wish they still made that cab (with a Cummins under the hood).

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

For the interior partition you are considering, I'd be tempted to make rolling shelf units with plywood/pegboard on the side facing your work shop space and open shelving on the garage side. You'll get storage and a portable wall you can simply roll out of the way as needed if you change things. Might have to extend the unit to the ceiling, but it would give you some adaptability in configuration.

 

[rsanter]

How wide is the lift?
I think you need 3-4 feet on each side to be able to really work on a vehicle.
Width of lift + 6ft + depth of any toolboxes or benches

Bob

 

[PNWguy]

How wide is the lift?
I think you need 3-4 feet on each side to be able to really work on a vehicle.
Width of lift + 6ft + depth of any toolboxes or benches

Bob

I haven't picked the lift yet, but it'll be 2 post, full height, 10,000#.
Possibly Greg Smith.

In a perfect world, I'd use an in ground lift so I could have a clear floor when there's not a car in the air. But I don't think I can justify the 2x price on it.

 

[rburke65]

I think you're going to be tight and you won't be doing any running in that area, but you'll be ok....in my opinion!

 

[6768rogues]

I allowed more than enough room to slide an axle out.

 

[bad_idea]

I allowed more than enough room to slide an axle out.

Strategically placing the entry door (or double doors) from wood shop to garage space will give room to slide an axle out the side of the truck. I would personally build the interior wall as time and money permit. Scope out craigslist and find a large double french door, something w/ large glass panels.

My last garage was a 14x20 attached garage. My new house does not have a garage, yet. I know what compromise is in using a work space. I think 20x25 is a reasonable size for a automotive work bay.

 

[BigNuge]

My shop is 35’ wide x 25’ long, the lift bay is 12’ x 25’. With a long truck in there it’s tight front/back, plenty of room side/side. My buddies 3/4 ton Dmax GMC w/8’ bed extended cab is the longest truck I put on the lift...it’s tight. My CrewMax Tundra is a close second in length, still tight. I’m planning on renovating and extending another 5’ for breathing room.

My lift is the 9000# Atlas by Gregg Smith. Lifts my buddies Dmax described above with ease.



Might I suggest installing an overhead/garage door right in front of the vehicle lift bay. That way you can simply put that door up when there is a long vehicle in there, and you’ll be able to walk around the nose with ease.


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[CraigStu]

20 feet width will be fine.
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-PV-10P
Outside to outside of the lift posts is 10'5" so you will have just a little under 5 feet clearance to the wall on each side. Heck you can put 2 ft deep toolbox or cabinets along the walls and still be fine. I would have them on wheels just in case.

 

[firebirdparts]

I think 20 feet wide is way too much. You could scrunch it down and make room for something else if there's any possible need for that.

Axles shafts are a lot shorter than people think, evidently. I had never heard of using that for a measure before here, but anyway they're about 30 inches long, and a big vehicle hub -to - hub is 6 feet wide. I don't see how you get a lift close enough to the wall to ever hit the wall with an axle shaft.

My measure is I'd like to be able to walk around the lift posts, but even that is just a convenience that has no bearing on actual work.

 

[PNWguy]

My shop is 35’ wide x 25’ long, the lift bay is 12’ x 25’. With a long truck in there it’s tight front/back, plenty of room side/side. My buddies 3/4 ton Dmax GMC w/8’ bed extended cab is the longest truck I put on the lift...it’s tight. My CrewMax Tundra is a close second in length, still tight. I’m planning on renovating and extending another 5’ for breathing room.

My lift is the 9000# Atlas by Gregg Smith. Lifts my buddies Dmax described above with ease.



Might I suggest installing an overhead/garage door right in front of the vehicle lift bay. That way you can simply put that door up when there is a long vehicle in there, and you’ll be able to walk around the nose with ease.


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Thanks for the photo. Yeah, that's tight!
If I go 20', that should give me room on both sides without eating the entire woodshop.

There will be a door at the end, just like yours. Also, the space in front of the list will be open into the other room. I'm not too worried about front to back space, as I'll be able to open the door if I need room behind the truck.

 

[sreeb]

I have been looking at some of the same issues although my 24' wide * 32' long garage presents different issues.

OK if I discuss it here or should I start a new thread?

On topic here, how do you intend to locate the lift front to back?

BigNuge, when you add 5' to your garage, do you intend add to the front or back and do you intend to uproot your lift and move it?

 

[BigNuge]

I have been looking at some of the same issues although my 24' wide * 32' long garage presents different issues.

OK if I discuss it here or should I start a new thread?

On topic here, how do you intend to locate the lift front to back?

BigNuge, when you add 5' to your garage, do you intend add to the front or back and do you intend to uproot your lift and move it?

I won’t be moving the lift at all. I don’t mind being tight against the door at the rear, it’s easy enough to open it if need be. As it is now I still have a little room up front with a long truck in there (3’ or so). I’d like more though. I will also gain some more room on the west side, which means more working space, and I like that bonus too!!


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[WhiffySpark]

How wide is the lift?
I think you need 3-4 feet on each side to be able to really work on a vehicle.
Width of lift + 6ft + depth of any toolboxes or benches

Bob

Not really. Most shops I worked out have the posts set within 24” of each other. If the truck fits in between the post you have enough room to do anything

 

[PNWguy]

I have been looking at some of the same issues although my 24' wide * 32' long garage presents different issues.

OK if I discuss it here or should I start a new thread?

On topic here, how do you intend to locate the lift front to back?

Go ahead and add to the thread.

As far as front to back location, I'll select the lift and see how/where the manufacturer recommends picking up my truck. I'll place the posts to center my truck front to back. Since I'll have clear space in front and a roll up door behind, it should work for other trucks as well.

Worst case, if I lose my mind and get a crew cab longbed, I may not be able to close the door if the truck is on the lift. I have no plans to lose my mind.

I'll also document the radiant heat tubes so I can move the lift if I really have to.

 

[sreeb]

I'm thinking:

1) It is highly desirable (but probably not absolutely essential) to have room to walk around the outside of the lift post. 2' should do it for me. YWMV.

2) Max width of vehicle I would ever work on: 7'

3) Outside width of lift: 12'

So if the post was 2' from the wall, then the vehicle is (12'-7')/2+2' = 4.5'. This should be enough. I have worked with less.

I'm currently planning on posts either 2' from the wall (empty wall) or 4' from wall (room for tool boxes or storage).

 

[T_R]

Depends on what you can deal with. My shop is 24x24. I have a lift on one side that is 4 inches from the wall. I couldn't sacrifice the ability to get 2 cars in for lift placement. I've had several crew cab shortbed trucks up on it and it's not the end of the world. My own truck is a RCSB so it's just fine. I normally only work on small cars though and it's perfect for that.

I eventually want to build another garage for working on cars only. I think my ideal size for this will be 16x32. That would give me plenty of room on both sides of the lift and plenty of room for a bench, tool box and equipment up front.