auto elec. sanders
- Thread starter rshell455
- Start date
sberry
Banned
Just out of curiosity,,, why strip the paint that far?
Jagmandave
Well-known member
/\ what he said......
I used paint stripper myself, then hand block sanded it to get some tooth for the primer, then hand sanded everything from there on out.
But if the old paint is just dull or tired, just give it a good key and go from there....
I used paint stripper myself, then hand block sanded it to get some tooth for the primer, then hand sanded everything from there on out.
But if the old paint is just dull or tired, just give it a good key and go from there....
I don't know much about automotive paint, but the focus on 'bare metal' always confuses me. The layer of galvanization protecting the metal is very thin. Taking the old paint off and sanding down to the shiny stuff takes galvanized sheet metal and turns it into un-galvanized sheet metal, doesn't it? Self-etching primer adds some protective zinc to the mix, but I can't imagine it's as good as what's sitting under un-rusted metal in the first place.
But like I say, this is outside of what I know -- and the car I have to paint and re-paint is fiberglass. Maybe someone can educate me in the course of giving rshell455 an answer.
But like I say, this is outside of what I know -- and the car I have to paint and re-paint is fiberglass. Maybe someone can educate me in the course of giving rshell455 an answer.
southalabama
Well-known member
There are different levels of restoration, with down to bare metal being the greatest level. Taking it down that far eliminates hidden rust which may bubble over time. You will also find any hidden problems or old filler. Because rust isn't visible doesn't mean its not present. It will also require that you properly prep the metal and put it back right or you will cause problems greater than what was there already.
Etek or some of the other guys who restore cars for a living can address the matter better than me.
Etek or some of the other guys who restore cars for a living can address the matter better than me.
Jagmandave
Well-known member
He didn't say what year the TransAm was, but unless it's from the late 90's, I doubt it will have galvanized sheet metal, will it? Seems like that was a fairly recent developement for American cars, even tho high end European cars have had it since the mid- 70's....
But your point is valid, especially for newer cars, where the primer coats are electrostatic or immersion processes.
But if he's doing a true restoration all the way down to the last nut and bolt, I still don't see the point of sanding all the paint off, that's a lot of work that will go much faster and better using strippers and/or sandblasting.
But to answer the OP's question, for quick removal what you want is an angle grinder, and use either sand paper or a wire brush. The point is simply to get it off - quickly......
But your point is valid, especially for newer cars, where the primer coats are electrostatic or immersion processes.
But if he's doing a true restoration all the way down to the last nut and bolt, I still don't see the point of sanding all the paint off, that's a lot of work that will go much faster and better using strippers and/or sandblasting.
But to answer the OP's question, for quick removal what you want is an angle grinder, and use either sand paper or a wire brush. The point is simply to get it off - quickly......
Last edited:
Thanks to all that replied to my post. The car is a 75 TA and it does have a number of rust areas. So I thought I should take it to the metel to make sure all is well. This is my first time doing this type of work so I do appreaciate all info.
I used these,
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...ECFTDQGLE0000000_nid=RCM96XTX07beH55CPWS904gl
on this,
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...ECFTDQGLE0000000_nid=RCM96XTX07beH55CPWS904gl
on this,
bad_idea
Well-known member
75 T/A? Brings back memories. I had a 79 Camaro in high school (that was only 10 years ago). Are you familiar with www.nastyz28.com? A lot of info on that site. Sorry to say I have no valuable info on a sander tho.
Beaumont67
Well-known member
If compressed air is not available, I would:
- strip paint first with Circa 1850 paint remover first / get the bulk off to the primer, saves much work
- invest in a electric 6" diameter D/A, using 80 grit discs
Follow up with epoxy prime.
- strip paint first with Circa 1850 paint remover first / get the bulk off to the primer, saves much work
- invest in a electric 6" diameter D/A, using 80 grit discs
Follow up with epoxy prime.
Maybe im missing the obvious. But if your going to bare metal how do you plan to protect it from flash rising until you can get it to paint jail with out an air compressor.
Even if your doing rust repair you need to have something protecting the good sheet metal.
If this is your planned route I would find a media blaster that has done automotive work so they know how to do it with out warping the metal. make sure they also epoxy prime. this way you are protected from flash rust and know where your rust areas are as well. Ask around to find a reputable blaster.
Even if your doing rust repair you need to have something protecting the good sheet metal.
If this is your planned route I would find a media blaster that has done automotive work so they know how to do it with out warping the metal. make sure they also epoxy prime. this way you are protected from flash rust and know where your rust areas are as well. Ask around to find a reputable blaster.
I suggest you go to autobodystore.com and join the forum. Lots of pros there and most will recommend a slow speed electric buffer with coarse Norton disk to strip paint. Less heat is generated than with a sander speed tool. Prevents warping sheet metal and clogging sandpaper. The 3M disk someone else posted are also excellent, but pricey.
PCO6
Well-known member
I agree with taking the paint remover route. It's not that hard and going down to bare metal always gave me good results. I'm not up to speed on today's paint but I was always taught to not mix manufacturer's products. I always used Dupont (others are fine) and tried to stay current as they brought out new products. I know you can paint over OEM bases but I always liked a fresh start.