Anyone out there who can offer up some advice? The paint i have been using for quite awhile on all kinds of projects is Nason Ful-Thane Single Stage over Nason Ful-Poxy epoxy primer. The problem is it seems really fragile after it dries. It might look good but it seems like a hard candy coating that chips really easily. Like the coating on an M&M... almost like it's just floating on the surface. Am I using the wrong materials? Here's a sample picture. I hope I post it right, sorry if I dont.
Auto paint advice
- Thread starter Lumpy
- Start date
Wrench97
Well-known member
I've had good luck in the past with Dupont(Axalta) Imron or with Sherwin Williams Sunfire a close second on fleet wheels/hubs/frames.
It's been quite a few years though since I've had to deal with either, back in the 70's when Imron was introduced the salesmen use to come around and paint a piece of tinfoil tell us to let it dry overnight and wrinkle it up and flatten out in the morning, it was still stuck to the tinfoil and no cracks. Of course they probably have changed the formula several hundred times since then...........................
It's been quite a few years though since I've had to deal with either, back in the 70's when Imron was introduced the salesmen use to come around and paint a piece of tinfoil tell us to let it dry overnight and wrinkle it up and flatten out in the morning, it was still stuck to the tinfoil and no cracks. Of course they probably have changed the formula several hundred times since then...........................
Black300zx
Well-known member
Is the topcoat chipping off of the primer, or are both the primer and topcoat chipping of of the metal? It's hard to tell, but I THINK I see bare metal, perhaps with some pitting or rust showing.
If the primer and topcoat are both coming off, I'd assess your metal prep. Check what grit finish is recommended by the primer. If the primer is staying, is there a time window for topcoating that you might not be following correctly?
If the primer and topcoat are both coming off, I'd assess your metal prep. Check what grit finish is recommended by the primer. If the primer is staying, is there a time window for topcoating that you might not be following correctly?
the primer is lifting to bare metal. I cleaned the rust up with spot blasting and 80 grit roloc and da, before I primed. If i recall...the spec sheet says the epoxy can be topcoated after an hour. I waited a couple hours on this particular project. I chose epoxy because I thought it would seal any pits or residual corrosion that I can't remove. Maybe a self etching would be more resilient? Frustrating
Busted_Knuckles
Well-known member
I wont paint anything without a self etching primer. There are also chemical metal " preps " for max adhesion. IIRC, they are more important on the alloys than on steel. Anything I paint, in an adverse environment, like a rim, gets a two part epoxy. Like what Imron and Durethane used to be before they where removed from the market. Of late Ive been using a Rustoleum industrial product. They also sell DTM paint now, but Ive not tired any yet. ( Direct to Metal ). Roughing it up, before primer ( if its never been sanded, might help too )
My dad loved Imron back when he used to paint cars back in the 70's and 80's. I remember he would lay down some amazing paint jobs in our garage back in the day when I was a kid. Unfortuantely later down the road it had some terrible side effects.
Was one of those things where when he passed away I saw doctor comments on his death certificate that said complications from pnuemonia caused by Covid and diminished lung capacity caused by smoking. Was kind of a WTF moment for me because I know my dad stopped smoking in 1983. I went back and discussed it with the Dr and he was like yeah your dad's lungs where down to like 60 % or less capacity overall and we just assumed he was a smoker.
Was one of those things where when he passed away I saw doctor comments on his death certificate that said complications from pnuemonia caused by Covid and diminished lung capacity caused by smoking. Was kind of a WTF moment for me because I know my dad stopped smoking in 1983. I went back and discussed it with the Dr and he was like yeah your dad's lungs where down to like 60 % or less capacity overall and we just assumed he was a smoker.
Wrench97
Well-known member
What type of blasting agent did you use?
I've used the same combinations of paint/primer on lots of projects figuring that by sticking to same products I'd eliminate variables. This isn't the first time it's chipped. Seems like it is always very fragile. I just keep trying to fix the problems, (orange peel, solvent pop i can do em all) and improve my technique. It eventually looks ok but I can't keep it from chipping.
Attachments
K13
Well-known member
Are you letting the primer induce before spraying after adding the hardener?
K13
Well-known member
If they are required then yes it would be an issue. Different Nason ful-poxy products have different requirements so it depends on what exactly you are using. You also said you are sanding with 80grit which also could be an issue as most epoxies want 80 grit followed by 180 for proper adhesion.
Nason is just not that good of paint product? I used it back when it was a second line product from Dupont before they sold everything to Axalta. It's cheaper for a reason.
I recommend you try SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc) Products. I will not use any other Epoxy primer it's that good. Plus it's cheaper than anything else I have used and another great thing is they are focused on the hobby/restoration user rather than the commercial get-em in and get-em out business model.
This means their products are not as quick to dry and spray which is ALL the commercial guys care about as they will never see the car again and simply don't care how long it lasts. Completely different mind set compared to SPI. I would shoot their white Epoxy primer followed by their white BC/CC.
Another great thing is when you call for advice (And you will!) you don't get someone who just has a job you get to talk to the OWNER of the company! Yes I talked to him on a Saturday afternoon on his personal cell phone. You simply CAN'T this level of service anywhere else. One down side is they offer a limited number of top coat color's. So I have to use a different brand of paint to match factory color combo's. But they do offer a limited range of colors including white?
SPI
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I recommend you try SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc) Products. I will not use any other Epoxy primer it's that good. Plus it's cheaper than anything else I have used and another great thing is they are focused on the hobby/restoration user rather than the commercial get-em in and get-em out business model.
This means their products are not as quick to dry and spray which is ALL the commercial guys care about as they will never see the car again and simply don't care how long it lasts. Completely different mind set compared to SPI. I would shoot their white Epoxy primer followed by their white BC/CC.
Another great thing is when you call for advice (And you will!) you don't get someone who just has a job you get to talk to the OWNER of the company! Yes I talked to him on a Saturday afternoon on his personal cell phone. You simply CAN'T this level of service anywhere else. One down side is they offer a limited number of top coat color's. So I have to use a different brand of paint to match factory color combo's. But they do offer a limited range of colors including white?
SPI
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