Auto Repair: Do I need multiple socket wrench drive sizes?

[Fred86]

I've done some softcore car repair (brakes, accessories), and have some 1/2 in drive sockets + socket wrench. It seems I can get a longer wrench, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, etc all in this 3/8 in socket drive size. What is the utility of getting 3/8 in drive size sockets/wrenches as well and having two sets of sockets? Can they sustain a much higher torque than 1/2 in drives that is actually necessary for some parts of the car? If so, what 3/8 to buy? I found this site reviewing craftman wrenches; http://wrenchsetguide.com/best-craftsman-socket-wrench-set-hands-review/. Can anyone point out the one most suitable?

Thanks
/ Fred

 

[mattwhite079]

1/2" drive is always stronger purely from size when comparing brand for brand.
The reason for different sizes is accessibility into tight spaces. It's simply impractical to use a large driver in a confided space.


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[1950mercury]

I'd say common sense goes along way..

Yes 3/8 is stronger, 1/4 is stronger both of them.

If you are working on your own car you should have a disclaimer that your passengers have to sign. Letting them know their life may be in danger!

 

[captnstabn]

I'd say common sense goes along way..

Yes 3/8 is stronger, 1/4 is stronger both of them.

If you are working on your own car you should have a disclaimer that your passengers have to sign. Letting them know their life may be in danger!

Lol

 

[gdocktor3]

It's accessibility. Instead of buying Craftsman, just go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their cheap sets. If you really want to step up to something a little better, buy a 1/4" and 3/8" socket set from Gearwrench. Now you'll have all sizes covered. This is a good set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5ECSK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Xtrom]

Sometimes you can't get into a tight space with a 1/2" drive, and obviously they don't go small enough for some applications.

 

[rice rocket]

It's simply impractical to use a large driver in a confided space.

Like your bedroom? You and your spouse are into some weird things....

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

You need to do more research... In short, 3/8" drive is the most used drive size since it can cover a large variety of fasteners and applications. Its my go to for 90% of my work, including: passenger cars, motorcycles, lawn equipment, around the house, etc...

However, if your working on: trucks, heavy equipment, etc... then say 1/2" or 3/4" will be what you use most often (everything is bigger and including fasteners and torque).


That said, I have full sets of 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets, extensions and ratchets. Remember I said, 90% of my work... I still need a 1/2" for certain tasks and 1/4" is just convenient for smaller stuff.

 

[Al Bundy]

My theory is you need multiple sets of all drive sizes because....well why wouldn't you?

 

[Roddyo]

BOGO Gearwrench sales will cure part of this problem

 

[Fixin'Stuff]

You can never have too many tools. Well, until the next time you move... Then they aren't as much fun.

 

[MFolks]

For many years,mechanics had to have Imperial(American) sockets, and wrenches,then along came the need for metric sizes,and the older mechanics worked on English made vehicles with "Whitworth" sizes(somewhere between Imperial, & Metric). So it's possible to have 3 types of sockets,wrenches,not including the Torx style fasteners.or the Allen recess type.

 

[T45]

Is this like some sears social media campaign? I'd say if you are a complete newby to avoid sears/craftsman, that place is a mess. Better off going with a brand that is on the up and up and logically organized and more predictable. This will help you avoid confusion .

Drive sizes are measured by the amount of tool steel in the square drive. The cross section is the amount of metal (or the size x size = size squared)

36mm(sq) = 6x6 (6mm=1/4 drive)
100mm(sq) = 10x10 (10mm=3/8 drive)
169mm(sq) = 13x13 (13mm=1/2 drive)

I've rounded the numbers but ya'll can see the gist of the math.

For practical use, 1/4 drive is for fasteners up to 30nm in torque rating, 3/8 drive for values up to 100NM, and 1/2 drive for values up to 200 or so. The limits for rated (DIN) strength is probably about twice those figures. Again just very loose estimates, and actual tools may be built much stronger.

Usually where the sizes overlapp, the dimenions of the sockets are not equal. They will typically use thinner walls on 1/4 s 1/2 because the bigger drive sizes are stronger so the sockets are stronger. The lighter and smaller tools will then fit in different places.

In modern applications, aerodynamics and economics have led to very confined workspaces. Basically manufactures shoud the motor with a windscreen, and try to make that windscreen as small as possible. This means that the engine is tightly wrapped, and the enclosed space makes tools that fit in small spaces more important in certain applications.

airplane and motorcyles are a couple examples where this is even more significant, because they both tend to be weight sensitive. so again smaller hardware, more confined spaces, ligher weight but stronger fasteners, packed more closely, etc and generally smaller tools are used as a result.

So the sizes you need depend on the fasteners you need to work on, and also there arrangement. Some people work with 1/4+1/2, and others build up around 3/8 with a springkling of other stuff for the extremes. It really depends on what you work on. Overall the trend is to make the smaller drives more standard, whereas the original standard drive was 1/2, today for many people 3/8 or 1/4 is the go to size for many things. Lastly, I woud add that corrosion and cleanliness come into play. Precision fasteners vs Messed up fasteners will likely best be served with drives more suited toward the extremes.

 

[anndel]

3/8" is the most popular size but I would get all 3 - 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4". Smaller size ratchets allow access to tighter spaces and especially the 1/4" drive minimizes you from overtightening stuff.

 

[HCNDM]

3/8" is the most popular size but I would get all 3 - 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4". Smaller size ratchets allow access to tighter spaces and especially the 1/4" drive minimizes you from overtightening stuff.

I agree. I started with 3/8s to save costs but really happy i have all three now. All things interior and small I tend to use 1/4. Engine bay mostly 3/8.

Wheels and chassis 1/2. Simply using the right ratchet for the job has saved me a bunch of broken and stripped fittings.


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[Citation]

It's accessibility. Instead of buying Craftsman, just go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their cheap sets. If you really want to step up to something a little better, buy a 1/4" and 3/8" socket set from Gearwrench. Now you'll have all sizes covered. This is a good set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5ECSK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Hard to tell with the description but it appears that set has no 3/8 deep metric sockets. That's a major miss in my book.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

My 3/4" stuff make light work of seemingly insurmountable tasks, and should not be overlooked.

 

[M6erfan]

Heck, just slap a 5ft breaker bar on that t72. Boom! 1/2" equivelant!

 

[Adam.C]

Lots of post war European mechanics only used 1/2" and 1/4" drive. And their 1/4" drive was used infrequently. So you don't NEED 3/8 drive tools.

 

[Lassen Forge]

Also quality counts. I've twisted off the square drives on 3/8" cheapy extensions and bars.

My 3/4" stuff make light work of seemingly insurmountable tasks, and should not be overlooked.

When 1/2" just isn't enough.

I used to do a lot of VW work - spent a small fortune on that ******** 36mm socket and a 1" drive that would fit it, so I could throw a cheater bar against it to get that %@^$#$!!!! of a rear axle nut off... I could jump up and down on it... but it was worth every penny I paid for it.

 

[Greg85mcss]

I agree that you don't "need" 3/8 but like most replies are saying they're good for most anything. I'm a big fan of gearwrench for something in the craftsman price range. If you're interested in 1/4 take a look at the tekton 51 piece set. I just had a thread going about it before I bought & everyone had great things to say.
I'd definitely get a 3/8 set. If you go for that 1/4 set & already have 1/2 you might not need sae in 3/8. That will save space & $. If you just want 3/8 I'd get metric & sae.


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[extropic]

I'd say common sense goes along way..

Yes 3/8 is stronger, 1/4 is stronger both of them.

If you are working on your own car you should have a disclaimer that your passengers have to sign. Letting them know their life may be in danger!

What's common sense?

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Personally, if I could only have one size drive it'd be 3/8".

 

[gdocktor3]

Hard to tell with the description but it appears that set has no 3/8 deep metric sockets. That's a major miss in my book.

I didn't really look into it. Here's another set that will work better for you. I found it about a week ago while searching on Northern Tools website. You can use coupon codes for a better discount. Look in the "hot deals" section for a thread I made on this set. It lists the coupon codes other people used.

http://m.northerntool.com/products/...n=Hand Tools > Tool Sets&utm_content=49299

 

[stang2007]

Fred the best is going to be Highly dependent on your Budget and how you want to buy the tools

For example do you want to spend a couple hundred up front for a mostly complete set or do you want to purchase the tools as you need them.

for me when i started i bought Craftsmen USA SAE and Metric wrenches but by the time i was ready to buy sockets i ended up getting mostly HF sockets they work and i have yet to break one.

If you like the Craftsman stuff they always have a 300ish peice set for around $200

 

[pescados666]

I was wondering similar myself. For someone who just does their own mechanical repairs and nothing like big trucks or anything huge, would it be recommended to buy 1/2" drive in impact sockets before buying regular 1/2" drive sockets?

 

[M6erfan]

I was wondering similar myself. For someone who just does their own mechanical repairs and nothing like big trucks or anything huge, would it be recommended to buy 1/2" drive in impact sockets before buying regular 1/2" drive sockets?

I was in the same position last year, I decided on a 1/2" set of impacts (Sunex). Haven't regretted not having 1/2" chromes at all...

 

[ibedayank]

all you need for eveythng is one lnch drive

 

[lowflyn]

Don't forget a full set of 6 point and matching 12 point sockets.

For the record i've used my impact with the cheap chrome hf sockets and have yet to break one.

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[md21722]

Most folks aren't going to install a car stereo with 1/2" drive impact sockets.

I have 3/8" from 10-19mm

I have 1/4" from 5-14 mm

I have 1/2" from 15-27mm

1/4" is for small stuff like trim

3/8" is for good many things inside the car & engine work

1/2" is largely for suspension or head bolts

If you're talking about 3/4" driven then its for really stuck bolts that 1/2" is marginal for, or you're working on trucks or tractors

 

[M4A1Carbine]

I was wondering similar myself. For someone who just does their own mechanical repairs and nothing like big trucks or anything huge, would it be recommended to buy 1/2" drive in impact sockets before buying regular 1/2" drive sockets?

If you're using an impact wrench, yes. I have 8-10 Craftsman USA 1/2 sockets, but usually I use my full set of Gearwrench 1/2 impact sockets.

 

[928'er]

Most folks aren't going to install a car stereo with 1/2" drive impact sockets.

I have 3/8" from 10-19mm

I have 1/4" from 5-14 mm

I have 1/2" from 15-27mm

1/4" is for small stuff like trim

3/8" is for good many things inside the car & engine work

1/2" is largely for suspension or head bolts

If you're talking about 3/4" driven then its for really stuck bolts that 1/2" is marginal for, or you're working on trucks or tractors

^ This.

1/4" for the little stuff, 3/8" for medium sizes, and 1/2" for the big stuff.

 

[anavrinIV]

I was wondering similar myself. For someone who just does their own mechanical repairs and nothing like big trucks or anything huge, would it be recommended to buy 1/2" drive in impact sockets before buying regular 1/2" drive sockets?

I have some chrome short 12pt 1/2 sockets that I almost never use, but a set of impacts that I use daily when I work on my own vehicles. I bought the klutch metric and sae set from northern a couple years back and have been very pleased...used often with electric impacts, on exhausts, clutches, suspensions. For ~$100 I couldn't be happier. I would definitely take the same route again

 

[Adam.C]

1/4" is for small stuff like trim

3/8" is for good many things inside the car & engine work

1/2" is largely for suspension or head bolts

This is conventional wisdom and I'm not arguing. If you have craftsman tools, this is good advice.

If you have truck tools however, the answer could be different. The strength of the sockets, extensions and ratchets allow:

1/4" for just about everything. You buy long handled ratchets which are as long or longer than "standard sized" 3/8" rats. If I need a bit more grunt, I grab some **** double box wrench, crack it loose and move on with 1/4" drive.

For engine work, brakes, etc I use 3/8". But most of these fasteners probably could be worked with 1/4" drive. For me the choice of 3/8" is based on the length of extensions and ratchets, not strength of the sockets or drives. 3/8" extensions are stiffer, wind less, and inspire more confidence that nothing's going to let go and bust my knuckles open.

1/2" I pretty much only use with an impact gun. I have one set of chrome sockets which I almost never use. If its stuck, I get a gun on it. If I can't get a gun, I use my beloved 26" flex head ratchet (SHLF80A) often with an impact socket on the end of it.

Reason for this two-fold:
1) the low weight of 1/4" drive allows you to ratchet faster. The cracking loose part is actually a very small part of the job. I spend way more time threading stuff in and out. And if you can do it with 1/4" drive, then do it. SnapOn's 1/4" drive can't be broken by hand without doing something stupid. You can safely pull 100lbs on a long handled SnapOn 1/4" ratchet.

2) The tools are smaller and easier to fit in tight areas.

With respect to the OP, this is a really basic question which tells me you need to take a book out of the public library or take a class. This is the kind of thing I learned fixing bicycles when I was 12. So take a tactical pause and do some remedial reading. No offense intended. We can't all know everything and there are no stupid questions. This one just indicates you may have others and you may be better served with a book or a class than an internet discussion group.

For everyone else, I thought my gravitational move to 1/4" might be of interest. Its taken me many years to grow confident with 1/4" drive tools. And to some degree, I was conditioned by a lifetime of working with fairly crappy craftsman tools. Now that I have truck tools, I'm changing my work approach.

 

[anavrinIV]

Reason for this two-fold:
1) the low weight of 1/4" drive allows you to ratchet faster. The cracking loose part is actually a very small part of the job. I spend way more time threading stuff in and out. And if you can do it with 1/4" drive, then do it. SnapOn's 1/4" drive can't be broken by hand without doing something stupid. You can safely pull 100lbs on a long handled SnapOn 1/4" ratchet.

2) The tools are smaller and easier to fit in tight areas.

This is a perspective I hadn't considered honestly. If my livelihood was based on how quickly I could pull off jobs I would look into it.

That said, my toolbox resides in my home garage and is filled with tools most of this board would never consider owning. As much as I would like 2x my salary in a snapon roller with matching tools it would be absurd to invest that much in something that doesn't make me any money. My tools are used in my free time, not when I'm on the clock.

I go opposite of a lot of guys here as well and prefer to use the biggest drive I can when working on my toys. Bigger ratchets feel better in my hand and, since I don't own a length for every occasion, make removing fasteners easier. Not as easier as an impact but still....

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

This is conventional wisdom and I'm not arguing. If you have craftsman tools, this is good advice.

If you have truck tools however, the answer could be different. The strength of the sockets, extensions and ratchets allow:

1/4" for just about everything. You buy long handled ratchets which are as long or longer than "standard sized" 3/8" rats. If I need a bit more grunt, I grab some **** double box wrench, crack it loose and move on with 1/4" drive.

For engine work, brakes, etc I use 3/8". But most of these fasteners probably could be worked with 1/4" drive. For me the choice of 3/8" is based on the length of extensions and ratchets, not strength of the sockets or drives. 3/8" extensions are stiffer, wind less, and inspire more confidence that nothing's going to let go and bust my knuckles open.

1/2" I pretty much only use with an impact gun. I have one set of chrome sockets which I almost never use. If its stuck, I get a gun on it. If I can't get a gun, I use my beloved 26" flex head ratchet (SHLF80A) often with an impact socket on the end of it.

Reason for this two-fold:
1) the low weight of 1/4" drive allows you to ratchet faster. The cracking loose part is actually a very small part of the job. I spend way more time threading stuff in and out. And if you can do it with 1/4" drive, then do it. SnapOn's 1/4" drive can't be broken by hand without doing something stupid. You can safely pull 100lbs on a long handled SnapOn 1/4" ratchet.

2) The tools are smaller and easier to fit in tight areas.

With respect to the OP, this is a really basic question which tells me you need to take a book out of the public library or take a class. This is the kind of thing I learned fixing bicycles when I was 12. So take a tactical pause and do some remedial reading. No offense intended. We can't all know everything and there are no stupid questions. This one just indicates you may have others and you may be better served with a book or a class than an internet discussion group.

For everyone else, I thought my gravitational move to 1/4" might be of interest. Its taken me many years to grow confident with 1/4" drive tools. And to some degree, I was conditioned by a lifetime of working with fairly crappy craftsman tools. Now that I have truck tools, I'm changing my work approach.

I agree, but if you need to grab another tool to crack a fastener loose (that a 1/4" couldn't do)... then might as well just used a 3/8" in the first place. I'm not so worried about strength more so flex... especially when using extensions.

Everyone's situation is different. If you were working on an old "boat", where you could stand in the engine bay... you could probably get away with 1/2" due to space, at the cost of weight of tools.

Having a variety of tools makes working on things easier and quicker, sometimes their absolutely needed That said, for the average DIY'er a full 3/8" set will let you do A LOT.

 

[thool]

I'm not ********* on auto repair, but have found that a 3/8 set and a 1/4 set (like the gear wrench combo) can go very far. Then my 1/2 set consists of impact sockets plus a breaker and an air wrench.

 

[Adam.C]

If my livelihood was based on how quickly I could pull off jobs I would look into it.

... it would be absurd to invest that much in something that doesn't make me any money. My tools are used in my free time, not when I'm on the clock...

Every minute of every day is worth something. As a life long shade tree mechanic, I feel sometimes I am under MORE time pressure than a pro. I typically have to get stuff done before the parts store closes. I prefer to complete a job before dinner, before the company arrives for the cookout, before the rain, dark etc.

Shade tree mechanics work on the high wire without a safety net. I work without a lift, without a welder, no coworker to borrow tools from or lend a hand, many times outside because the garage is too cramped. And just about every job I do is the first time I've ever done that job on that car. I typically work on my or my wife's daily driver. Not fixed, can't get to work and I lose a vacation day or the cost of a rental. How many more disadvantages can I get? Oh right, cheap tools.

Just off the phone with VW. They want close to $500 for oil change, new plugs, pollen filter, brake and suspension inspection, road test, wash and vacuum. Really? I don't feel so bad about having some Snap On tools. I can do that service myself and save enough money to buy all new ratchets.

 

[anavrinIV]

Every minute of every day is worth something. As a life long shade tree mechanic, I feel sometimes I am under MORE time pressure than a pro. I typically have to get stuff done before the parts store closes. I prefer to complete a job before dinner, before the company arrives for the cookout, before the rain, dark etc.

Shade tree mechanics work on the high wire without a safety net. I work without a lift, without a welder, no coworker to borrow tools from or lend a hand, many times outside because the garage is too cramped. And just about every job I do is the first time I've ever done that job on that car. I typically work on my or my wife's daily driver. Not fixed, can't get to work and I lose a vacation day or the cost of a rental. How many more disadvantages can I get? Oh right, cheap tools.

Just off the phone with VW. They want close to $500 for oil change, new plugs, pollen filter, brake and suspension inspection, road test, wash and vacuum. Really? I don't feel so bad about having some Snap On tools. I can do that service myself and save enough money to buy all new ratchets.

We have slightly different philosophies, and I'm okay with that.

My tools aren't bottom of the barrel but they definitely aren't top of the line. My 2 options on vehicle repair are not take to the dealer or but top of the line tool truck tools, there's an in between. I've contemplated buying a basic set of dual 80s, and will probably find a decently priced set on ebay at some point, but until then my standard nearly 10 year old kobalt ratchets have never once failed me. Never skipped, never locked, never broken. I've abused them more than is reasonable and not maintained them like I should have and I've never once been left without a ratchet. I've broken 2 sockets, at the time by far my most used. I had others I could use in their place. Replaced them and kept on going.

My time is worth something, sure. But I work on my cars, my friends' cars, the motorcycle I'm rebuilding because I enjoy it. The motorcycle needs a new lower triple tree and bearings, fork seals, swingarm pivot bearings, brakes, tires, radiator, and fluids. My income is a zero sum total, it's either parts or tools. I can save a lot of time by getting replacement parts instead of upgrading tools that have never let me down

 

[ssdave]

Adam C pretty much summed up where i've arrived after many years of tool use. When I got a very extensive set of Snap-on 1/4 inch sockets, ratchets and extensions, most of my use of larger tools stopped except for large or rusted fasteners. It took a couple of years to get the confidence that they would indeed hold up, but they do. And, I didn't have junk 1/4 inch before these; I had old V series Craftsman, SK, and Proto. There is a real, substantial difference in excellent 1/4" tooling compared to just okay or good tooling.

If you don't have 1/4" stuff that is top of the line and that you have confidence in, 3/8" will probably be your go to set. My Snap-on and Proto 3/8 was my primary use tooling before I got the better quality 1/4" stuff. If you have lower tier stuff, you will find you will use the 1/2" stuff more, as you'll have more confidence in it not breaking or flexing.

The one difference I have from what he said is that I almost never use my 1/2" drive impact sockets, but continuously use the chrome 12 points on larger stuff. I much prefer the lighter, slimmer chrome to the heavy, thick impacts. When I first started out doing mechanic work at the local chevron station, I only had impact sockets in 1/2 inch. They worked, but it was a real luxury to add a set of 12 point chrome mismatched sockets that I got cheap from yard sales and pawn shops. Now, I only use impacts on air tools or when I use a 3/4" breaker bar adapted down to 1/2". I have 3/4" tooling, but rarely use it, as I have 1/2" tooling to 1 1/2" size.

So, the answer to the original question is: Really depends on what your use is, what quality level you buy, and how you use and feel about the tools. If you're indifferent to quality and weight differences, buy heavier, thicker, and less expensive tools in 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive. If you need to work in tighter quarters, appreciate lighter and better made tools, then buy higher quality, lighter 1/4 and 3/8" tools, with a backup set of 1/2" for heavy work. If you only can afford one set, buy a decent 1/2" and then buy lighter stuff as you need it for clearance, which you inevitably will.