gdocktor3
Well-known member
Or you could buy the Snap On tools for half price, bring them home and sell them for full price on Craigslist or eBay like everyone else on eBay. Then buy all HF....
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Auto Tech Student Help
- Thread starter Matt Behnke
- Start date
camd64
Well-known member
I haven't bought any large amount of tools really since the late '90's when I got into turning wrenches for a living so I was interested to see what a basic setup would run. I obviously didn't look up every single item but just your basic things like a 1/4 socket set , 3/8 socket set, metric wrench set, screwdriver set, plier set, etc. and just selecting 3 different common brand this is what I came up with.
Tekton $201
SK $719
Snap On $2,466
That's no student discounts and of course slight variations between the kits but basically the same setup. Also keep in mind you will be using cordless and/or pneumatic tools a majority of the time so invest wisely.
I'm really not a big fan of the huge tool kits, the ones I have seen all come with a ton of stuff you either don't need or don't want. Like a kit that comes with multiple long handle ratchets but no flex heads or straight ratchet wrenches when you wanted offset reversible. Smaller kits are great typically and the way I would go. I only buy individual on certain specialty items. I didn't need every metric 4-way angle wrench in the set so I just bought the couple sizes I needed.
Tekton $201
SK $719
Snap On $2,466
That's no student discounts and of course slight variations between the kits but basically the same setup. Also keep in mind you will be using cordless and/or pneumatic tools a majority of the time so invest wisely.
I'm really not a big fan of the huge tool kits, the ones I have seen all come with a ton of stuff you either don't need or don't want. Like a kit that comes with multiple long handle ratchets but no flex heads or straight ratchet wrenches when you wanted offset reversible. Smaller kits are great typically and the way I would go. I only buy individual on certain specialty items. I didn't need every metric 4-way angle wrench in the set so I just bought the couple sizes I needed.
HomeTheaterMan
Well-known member
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- Apr 3, 2016
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I disagree with many of the responses in this thread and no offense to anyone, but it's pretty obvious that many of these guys have never worked as a mechanic for a living.
There are many problems with the go to Harbor Freight mentality imo. While they do have a few decent tools at HF, 90% of what I've used from there is junk. It's okay if you're going to use it around the house once every 6 months, but it isn't going to hold up to every day use. Not to mention that it's not going to work as well when it's not broken and it's likely to make the job a lot more difficult than if you had quality tools. When you're working on flat rate this is the last thing you want. You don't want rounded bolts, stripped screws, busted knuckles because the tool broke (or a worse injury). You also don't want to have to stop in the middle of a job to go back to HF to exchange a tool while you're getting paid by the job. When you decide you can no longer work with the junk from HF (it will be soon), you'll then have paid for the HF tools and the Snap On replacements (probably at full price now instead of 50% off).
I also agree that you can usually get Snap On tools used for about 50% of the new price. This is the way I prefer to shop when I buy SO stuff now since I don't get a discount. However, you technically have no warranty. (Snap On's official warranty is only for the original purchaser), so if you have an issue you have to hope they'll replace it for you. You also may pay more than 50% if you want the latest version of a popular tools. It doesn't make sense to buy this way when you have the opportunity to buy new stuff (no question of if it's warrantied) for the same price. Once you no longer have the discount this is the way you should shop imo. It's also nice that you'll probably get close to what you paid for any tool that you may decide to sell later.
As you can see, I think you should buy what you can afford now while you can take advantage of this deal. Now I do NOT think you should finance anything at SO's crazy interest rates. If you're paying 19% interest on an item it doesn't make it such a good deal anymore and you'd be better off waiting on it. If you can afford to purchase stuff now without financing it, it's the time to buy imo.
As to what to buy,
I have mixed feelings on tool boxes. There is no doubt in my mind that the truck companies make quality boxes and that they need to hold up well to everyday use. However, they are also significantly overpriced imo. You also almost never pay retail on a box so if you choose to get one later you can probably get one at a good price later one as well. You could certainly get by with a cheaper box if you didn't have the money for a truck brand box right now. I think many of the other tools are more important right now.
What I would buy are things like ratchets (although I do love my Gearwrench 60 tooth ratchets), sockets, wrenches, flare nut wrenches, screwdrivers, hex bits, torque bits, torque wrenches, punches, chisels, breaker bars, a PH3050 air hammer, etc. This is stuff that it's well worth spending the extra money on from Snap On. A guy above recommended Craftsman screwdrivers and I can tell you that there is no way I'd go back to them. Once you use a Snap On screwdriver there is no comparison. There are other brands that make great screwdrivers as well, but the warranty is a lot harder to use. This is okay for a homeowner that doesn't need them right away. It's not okay for a mechanic that needs them fixed right then and there. It's also not going to be that much of a price difference at 50% off. I'd also buy anything that will see a lot of use or that could hurt you if it breaks.
SK and similar brands make great stuff. It's not better than SO, but it's very good. The problem is that at 50% off it's not that much cheaper than SO and you can't get the items warrantied in a timely fashion.
Now what I wouldn't buy would items that are rebranded that sell for a fraction of the price from other brands (unless it's something you may need to warranty often), pliers (I'd go Klein and Knipex as they are that much better), snap ring pliers (again Knipex), most air tools (other than the air hammer mentioned above), and I wouldn't go crazy buying things that you'll never use just so you can tell your friends that you have them. (I've seen this far too many times).
50% is a great opportunity if you can afford to pay cash for what you need. You don't want to spend your money on HF stuff now only to realize in 6 months that you have to sell it for pretty much nothing and then buy the SO stuff at full price. If you end up not staying in the trade and have quality tools you can sell most of your stuff on eBay for pretty close to what you paid for it. So there isn't a lot of risk there.
There are many problems with the go to Harbor Freight mentality imo. While they do have a few decent tools at HF, 90% of what I've used from there is junk. It's okay if you're going to use it around the house once every 6 months, but it isn't going to hold up to every day use. Not to mention that it's not going to work as well when it's not broken and it's likely to make the job a lot more difficult than if you had quality tools. When you're working on flat rate this is the last thing you want. You don't want rounded bolts, stripped screws, busted knuckles because the tool broke (or a worse injury). You also don't want to have to stop in the middle of a job to go back to HF to exchange a tool while you're getting paid by the job. When you decide you can no longer work with the junk from HF (it will be soon), you'll then have paid for the HF tools and the Snap On replacements (probably at full price now instead of 50% off).
I also agree that you can usually get Snap On tools used for about 50% of the new price. This is the way I prefer to shop when I buy SO stuff now since I don't get a discount. However, you technically have no warranty. (Snap On's official warranty is only for the original purchaser), so if you have an issue you have to hope they'll replace it for you. You also may pay more than 50% if you want the latest version of a popular tools. It doesn't make sense to buy this way when you have the opportunity to buy new stuff (no question of if it's warrantied) for the same price. Once you no longer have the discount this is the way you should shop imo. It's also nice that you'll probably get close to what you paid for any tool that you may decide to sell later.
As you can see, I think you should buy what you can afford now while you can take advantage of this deal. Now I do NOT think you should finance anything at SO's crazy interest rates. If you're paying 19% interest on an item it doesn't make it such a good deal anymore and you'd be better off waiting on it. If you can afford to purchase stuff now without financing it, it's the time to buy imo.
As to what to buy,
I have mixed feelings on tool boxes. There is no doubt in my mind that the truck companies make quality boxes and that they need to hold up well to everyday use. However, they are also significantly overpriced imo. You also almost never pay retail on a box so if you choose to get one later you can probably get one at a good price later one as well. You could certainly get by with a cheaper box if you didn't have the money for a truck brand box right now. I think many of the other tools are more important right now.
What I would buy are things like ratchets (although I do love my Gearwrench 60 tooth ratchets), sockets, wrenches, flare nut wrenches, screwdrivers, hex bits, torque bits, torque wrenches, punches, chisels, breaker bars, a PH3050 air hammer, etc. This is stuff that it's well worth spending the extra money on from Snap On. A guy above recommended Craftsman screwdrivers and I can tell you that there is no way I'd go back to them. Once you use a Snap On screwdriver there is no comparison. There are other brands that make great screwdrivers as well, but the warranty is a lot harder to use. This is okay for a homeowner that doesn't need them right away. It's not okay for a mechanic that needs them fixed right then and there. It's also not going to be that much of a price difference at 50% off. I'd also buy anything that will see a lot of use or that could hurt you if it breaks.
SK and similar brands make great stuff. It's not better than SO, but it's very good. The problem is that at 50% off it's not that much cheaper than SO and you can't get the items warrantied in a timely fashion.
Now what I wouldn't buy would items that are rebranded that sell for a fraction of the price from other brands (unless it's something you may need to warranty often), pliers (I'd go Klein and Knipex as they are that much better), snap ring pliers (again Knipex), most air tools (other than the air hammer mentioned above), and I wouldn't go crazy buying things that you'll never use just so you can tell your friends that you have them. (I've seen this far too many times).
50% is a great opportunity if you can afford to pay cash for what you need. You don't want to spend your money on HF stuff now only to realize in 6 months that you have to sell it for pretty much nothing and then buy the SO stuff at full price. If you end up not staying in the trade and have quality tools you can sell most of your stuff on eBay for pretty close to what you paid for it. So there isn't a lot of risk there.
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MDK22
Well-known member
Do not I repeat do not buy Harbor Freight. The stuff will break and most of the time it will hurt you or come close to hurting you. I have tried many of them and they have almost gotten me hurt at work at least 10x and at home 2-3x. Ever had a breaker bar snap at full force. It missed my artery in my arm by an inch and my neck. Strained my wrist when it broke. Had impact torx snap and had me fall towards a running engine fan. Had many of their "awesome" wrenches round fasteners and cause me to hit frame rails etc. I then had to drive another techs turbo socket on them after removing 5-6 things to be able to get a socket on it. Harbor Freight is junk for a professional.
This is the exact problem I have with non professionals recommending tools. You have no clue what you are talking about. SK is ok. It is also mainly chrome and the impact stuff is thick. It also has lower resell value then SO.
I recommended the brands I recommended for many reasons. One is they last even with abuse. Two they are resell-able. Three they are the things you need from SO and stuff that is great brands for cheap.
With you getting 50% off I am telling you to get high ticket items yes but, they are things you are going to use a lot if not all the time. I use my 1/2", 3/8" impact every day. My impact sockets every day and they are far better then chrome. SO impacts are very thick walled so do not fit well. Grey Pneumatic is rather thin and yet do not break easy at all. Mac and SO also can normally warranty Grey Pneumatic. Where I am at right now I work on everything from light cars/trucks all the way through heavy duty and super heavy duty big rigs. The stuff I suggest just works.
For hex, torx, torx+, etc I suggest VIM because they do not break easy at all. With that being said SO are easier to warranty. Some of the SO ones are even VIM.
Also check your private messages if you have not done so already.
This is the exact problem I have with non professionals recommending tools. You have no clue what you are talking about. SK is ok. It is also mainly chrome and the impact stuff is thick. It also has lower resell value then SO.
I recommended the brands I recommended for many reasons. One is they last even with abuse. Two they are resell-able. Three they are the things you need from SO and stuff that is great brands for cheap.
With you getting 50% off I am telling you to get high ticket items yes but, they are things you are going to use a lot if not all the time. I use my 1/2", 3/8" impact every day. My impact sockets every day and they are far better then chrome. SO impacts are very thick walled so do not fit well. Grey Pneumatic is rather thin and yet do not break easy at all. Mac and SO also can normally warranty Grey Pneumatic. Where I am at right now I work on everything from light cars/trucks all the way through heavy duty and super heavy duty big rigs. The stuff I suggest just works.
For hex, torx, torx+, etc I suggest VIM because they do not break easy at all. With that being said SO are easier to warranty. Some of the SO ones are even VIM.
Also check your private messages if you have not done so already.
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HomeTheaterMan
Well-known member
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- Apr 3, 2016
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- 493
Do not I repeat do not buy Harbor Freight. The stuff will break and most of the time it will hurt you or come close to hurting you. I have tried many of them and they have almost gotten me hurt at work at least 10x and at home 2-3x. Ever had a breaker bar snap at full force. It missed my artery in my arm by an inch and my neck. Strained my wrist when it broke. Had impact torx snap and had me fall towards a running engine fan. Had many of their "awesome" wrenches round fasteners and cause me to hit frame rails etc. I then had to drive another techs turbo socket on them after removing 5-6 things to be able to get a socket on it. Harbor Freight is junk for a professional.
This is the exact problem I have with non professionals recommending tools. You have no clue what you are talking about. SK is ok. It is also mainly chrome and the impact stuff is thick. It also has lower resell value then SO.
I recommended the brands I recommended for many reasons. One is they last even with abuse. Two they are resell-able. Three they are the things you need from SO and stuff that is great brands for cheap.
With you getting 50% off I am telling you to get high ticket items yes but, they are things you are going to use a lot if not all the time. I use my 1/2", 3/8" impact every day. My impact sockets every day and they are far better then chrome. SO impacts are very thick walled so do not fit well. Grey Pneumatic is rather thin and yet do not break easy at all. Mac and SO also can normally warranty Grey Pneumatic. Where I am at right now I work on everything from light cars/trucks all the way through heavy duty and super heavy duty big rigs. The stuff I suggest just works.
For hex, torx, torx+, etc I suggest VIM because they do not break easy at all. With that being said SO are easier to warranty. Some of the SO ones are even VIM.
+2 to this post. Pretty much everything here is 100% true.
I've also gotten hurt with a cheap breaker bar that snapped. Mine was a Craftsman instead of a HF one, but the HF stuff is just as bad. When this one broke it hit me in the head. Next thing I know I was laying in a puddle of blood. Several years later I still have a bump on my head. I got lucky as it could have been a lot worse. This experience taught me a very valuable lesson and that's not to cheap out on any tools that can cause an injury if they break, which is what I recommended above. One hospital visit could have bought you a lot of quality tools.
winchman
Well-known member
My thoughts
A tool box won't earn you any money, so get a tatty second hand one and repair it.
You collection of tools is the key to a life time earning money.
I started out with some very cheap brands and as I had money I replaced certain things, some of the cheaper items are still in daily use and working well.
I am sure you will have something similar to this in the US, I bought this for my son and it is excellent and an ideal starter set, most UK mechanics buy these when starting out.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...nced-200-piece-socket-and-ratchet-spanner-set
Whilst Snap On is very good we have many similar quality brands in the uk, our dealer network isn't as good as it was so sometimes warranty can be an issue.
We have an imported brand called Bergen, basically they sell many of the fast moving items snap on sell but at a fraction of the price, I wouldn't dismiss the imported stuff just yet as some of it is excellent.
A tool box won't earn you any money, so get a tatty second hand one and repair it.
You collection of tools is the key to a life time earning money.
I started out with some very cheap brands and as I had money I replaced certain things, some of the cheaper items are still in daily use and working well.
I am sure you will have something similar to this in the US, I bought this for my son and it is excellent and an ideal starter set, most UK mechanics buy these when starting out.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...nced-200-piece-socket-and-ratchet-spanner-set
Whilst Snap On is very good we have many similar quality brands in the uk, our dealer network isn't as good as it was so sometimes warranty can be an issue.
We have an imported brand called Bergen, basically they sell many of the fast moving items snap on sell but at a fraction of the price, I wouldn't dismiss the imported stuff just yet as some of it is excellent.
nti06
Well-known member
I've been exactly where you are right now. I attended UTI in Mooresville. I had access to the 50% discount too. You will never have access to Snap-on tools at the price you can get them for right now.
I took an additional living expense loan to make the best of the opportunity. I bought a Classic 78 to start out with. A tool box keeps you organized.
Constantly losing your tools makes you look like a *******. A tool box also keeps your stuff locked up when you find yourself working with a meth addict in the shop. You don't have to start with an Epiq. However consider a box that will allow you to grow into it, and carry good trade in value later.
Shop your basic hand tools through your school discount. Sockets, ratchets, wrenches. The basics that almost always last forever.
I took an additional living expense loan to make the best of the opportunity. I bought a Classic 78 to start out with. A tool box keeps you organized.
Constantly losing your tools makes you look like a *******. A tool box also keeps your stuff locked up when you find yourself working with a meth addict in the shop. You don't have to start with an Epiq. However consider a box that will allow you to grow into it, and carry good trade in value later.
Shop your basic hand tools through your school discount. Sockets, ratchets, wrenches. The basics that almost always last forever.
Do not I repeat do not buy Harbor Freight. The stuff will break and most of the time it will hurt you or come close to hurting you. I have tried many of them and they have almost gotten me hurt at work at least 10x and at home 2-3x. Ever had a breaker bar snap at full force. It missed my artery in my arm by an inch and my neck. Strained my wrist when it broke. Had impact torx snap and had me fall towards a running engine fan. Had many of their "awesome" wrenches round fasteners and cause me to hit frame rails etc. I then had to drive another techs turbo socket on them after removing 5-6 things to be able to get a socket on it. Harbor Freight is junk for a professional.
+3. Not a pro, but reached this conclusion as well. Pros arrive at this realization after a year's time. Took me 20 but I got there.
HF breakers bend. Their extensions wind. I no longer have infinite strength. I want my power going into the fastener torque, not yielding soft tools. You actually need more strength to use cheap tools.
As for bit sockets, manufacturers use these in places where they cannot fit hex heads. They also use them in high torque applications. Like hell I want to save money on Chinese bit sockets and end up rounding some triple square or something and what, have to drill it? You only have to round one or two cap screws to financially justify a good set from Snap On. Last I looked, you can't even buy triple squares at HF and their torx sockets are unbelievable ****.
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OP
Matt Behnke
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Thanks again! I should have mentioned that I do not think that I will do this as my profession. I plan on being a firemen, but then do this to fix my cars and maybe some on the side. Kinda like a side hobby. If I do this, then I am thinking that I will need a lot of the items in the kit due to the variety of cars I will be working on. What are your takes on this?
OP
Matt Behnke
Active member
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As a past auto tech student that didn't take advantage of the discount when I had it available to me. If you must get it now, buy what you can get away with for as cheap as possible then start replacing/adding to your kit as you can while you have the discount. The 3/8 gearwrench set with the free 1/4 set is a great buy to get you started, then watch the truck for promos while you have the discount. Ratchets, torque wrenches, any bits sockets (hex, speed hex/ball, torx), and a GOOD set of snap ring pliers (I prefere the MAC branded Knipex-made set) are best purchased off the truck at as much of a discount as you can get. After that, wrenches, main line sockets (3/8 & 1/2 especially), pliers, and screwdrivers, are also a good area to fill in while you can get a price break. Just one guys opinion here, should have spent my money while I was in school on good tools at a good price, instead of chasing girls, cars, and beer. Would have more to show for it, like a tool box of good tools..
So are you recomending that SO is worth the slightly extra money for hardline tools, and should take up my discount on them? They are made in the USA too right? I have read on the site that they took made in the USA off the tools, and its got me worried that even if they are made in the US, that a warentee tool might be an import. Thanks
WhiffySpark
Well-known member
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Your toolbox may not make you anymore money, but it can say a lot about your image.
Man my dealer has half off and buy one get one deals all the time in fact I bought 3/8 simi deep impacts for $195 metric and SAE a few weeks back. It's all up to your dealer to make up the deals. Thier are deals to be had away from school.I've been exactly where you are right now. I attended UTI in Mooresville. I had access to the 50% discount too. You will never have access to Snap-on tools at the price you can get them for right now.
ScottsGT
Well-known member
Thanks again! I should have mentioned that I do not think that I will do this as my profession. I plan on being a firemen, but then do this to fix my cars and maybe some on the side. Kinda like a side hobby. If I do this, then I am thinking that I will need a lot of the items in the kit due to the variety of cars I will be working on. What are your takes on this?
Even as a side job, get the essentials in Snap On. Wrenches, sockets, basically anything that turns a fastener. I quite often find myself using my Snap On wrench to break the nut/bolt loose, then my Gearwrench ratcheting box end to remove it.
Trust me, as a Fireman with a side job as a mechanic, you will be swamped once word gets out (if you are good at what you do)
I just had a couple of trees cut down last week by a friend that is a full time fireman. He has a side business cutting trees and he stays very busy. The schedules of Firemen offer the opportunity to do this. So even though it will be a side job, go at it seriously, to include serious tools.
One option I gave my son was his ratchets. I bought him 2 or 3 from HF to start with. I told him a ratchet is something you have to feel and use to make your mind up if you really like it. Buy the cheap ones to start and them once you find your favorite, we'll buy it in Snap On.
His 50% off maxes out at something like $5000 and he keeps this offer for something like 2 years after graduation, so he can be working in the field to see what he really needs in life.
As mentioned earlier, the box doesn't earn you money. But you better be able to organize and keep what you have secure.
R_einan
Well-known member
So are you recomending that SO is worth the slightly extra money for hardline tools, and should take up my discount on them? They are made in the USA too right? I have read on the site that they took made in the USA off the tools, and its got me worried that even if they are made in the US, that a warentee tool might be an import. Thanks
I absolutely recommend Snap-on for the hardline tools, at a 50% discount available to you, they are a great investment that you won't lose money on. The things I would buy specifically from snap on to start are:
Hex bit sockets (standard and ball)
Torx bit sockets
Ratchets
After that, sockets and wrenches.
Hammers, punches, chisels, prybars, picks, screwdrivers, etc can be purchased from whoever makes a product you like. Buy what feels best to you after spending some time using the items and figuring out what fits for you.
As for other tools, there are many good tools put out by different trucks. Some rebranded, some not. While it is true that some of MAC tools are imports and you have to watch them, they still offer USA on most hardline tools. For example, I personally like the MAC rebranded snap ring pliers made by Knipex (yes, imported from Germany). But they will honor the warranty for them if you damage the tips.
To sum things up here, 50% off snap on is a great deal for tools that won't depreciate when you buy them at that price, so think of them like a non-liquid asset. Try and avoid large packages if you can, it's better if you can build your own set of things you need and will use daily. That doesn't mean spend 10k and get everything at once; start with things you need and will use frequently. Remember that you will only get this deal while you are in school and not taking advantage of it for things you will buy anyway is like throwing away money.
Thanks again! I should have mentioned that I do not think that I will do this as my profession. I plan on being a firemen, but then do this to fix my cars and maybe some on the side. Kinda like a side hobby. If I do this, then I am thinking that I will need a lot of the items in the kit due to the variety of cars I will be working on. What are your takes on this?
That changes things somewhat. I will say that after nearly 30 years of doing what you want to do, its great to finally have decent tools. I would say high quality tools are almost more beneficial to shade tree mechanics than pros. Shade tree mechanics work with no safety net. And the fact that you can get warranty replacement at Sears or HF is little consolation when you have limited time before the rain comes, the little league game etc. What you want are tools that remove stubborn fasteners WITHOUT breaking, rounding them off, or slipping.
Stick with the SEP on the hardline stuff. Buy ratchets second hand as funds become available. Focus on 1/4" and 3/8" metric sockets, extensions, and bit sockets. Buy FDP metric wrenches, possibly metric flare nut wrenches - I don't use mine that often. Everything else I would get elsewhere or later. Lots of auto techs drop out and sell their tools, others quit after they learn what so many here say, the pay *****. Still others buy tools on lay away them instantly sell them for drug money. Regardless, there are good deals to be had on most Snap On items if you are patient enough.
I wouldn't buy Snap On inch sizes at this point. I'd wait until you really need them.
Moose97
Well-known member
Every time one of these posts come up it spirals in the same direction;
1.) Snap-On is the greatest tool in the world and no one should consider anything else!
2.) Snap-On is overpriced and isn't any better than any other tool.
3.) Harbor Freight is as good as Snap-On
4.) Harbor Freight is cheap Chinese junk.
That about sums up every thread like this.
For me (not a professional technician) I think I would err on the side of the many pro's who swear by Snap-On at least for the most common used stuff. They have the experience...go with it. If you don't trust your fellow GJ'ers just go visit a few local shops and see what those guys are using. That should answer your questions.
As a DIY'er who only works on the 5 vehicles in my family, I have had great luck with Harbor Freight, Craftsman, Stanley and others but I never try and pretend what I do is the same as someone who does this for a living.
1.) Snap-On is the greatest tool in the world and no one should consider anything else!
2.) Snap-On is overpriced and isn't any better than any other tool.
3.) Harbor Freight is as good as Snap-On
4.) Harbor Freight is cheap Chinese junk.
That about sums up every thread like this.
For me (not a professional technician) I think I would err on the side of the many pro's who swear by Snap-On at least for the most common used stuff. They have the experience...go with it. If you don't trust your fellow GJ'ers just go visit a few local shops and see what those guys are using. That should answer your questions.
As a DIY'er who only works on the 5 vehicles in my family, I have had great luck with Harbor Freight, Craftsman, Stanley and others but I never try and pretend what I do is the same as someone who does this for a living.
I'm a shade tree who grew up using my Dad's SO stuff. These days I would mix and match but my sockets would likely be Husky since they are the same basic design as Gearwrench (same parent) I would stick with the 72t versions for lower back drag and a lower profile head. I would pick up a set of Crescent brand Tito ratchets of eBay for $25 (a tip from someone here). You just don't need to spend the big dollars. That isn't saying there is no difference but often the difference doesn't help you do the job at hand. Cheaper also means more money for more tools.
So your gonna be a firefighter? Then why tech school? Tech school is only going to give you the basic fundamentals, the real knowledge comes with time and experience. My advise change majors to something that is going to help your ff careers down the road I'm not sure what that is something like a business management degree or forensics something that will give you the edge as you climb the ladder in your career.
What would help a fireman's career is EMT. We probably have some volunteer FF here. I am a military trained FF. Real firemen do jobs you don't want to know about. The joke in my house is to never make friends with or date a fireman or ER nurse. And if you do, don't ask what they did last weekend.
Firemen where I live don't put out fires. They pick up the bodies of teenagers who died in drink driving accidents or motorcycle accidents like EVERY WEEKEND. They drag lakes looking for abducted children and respond to police calls from neighbors who haven't seen their elderly neighbor in days. Its the greatest job in the world and the worst job in the world.
Got to work with some military medics over the last few years. Don't ask them what they did last weekend either.
Tech School isn't a bad idea. I see a lot of similarities between medicine and auto repair (its technical, the diagnostic portion is very similar, tool use, sometimes messy, appropriate care for the patient, etc).
I wanted all my kids to go to tech school.
Firemen where I live don't put out fires. They pick up the bodies of teenagers who died in drink driving accidents or motorcycle accidents like EVERY WEEKEND. They drag lakes looking for abducted children and respond to police calls from neighbors who haven't seen their elderly neighbor in days. Its the greatest job in the world and the worst job in the world.
Got to work with some military medics over the last few years. Don't ask them what they did last weekend either.
Tech School isn't a bad idea. I see a lot of similarities between medicine and auto repair (its technical, the diagnostic portion is very similar, tool use, sometimes messy, appropriate care for the patient, etc).
I wanted all my kids to go to tech school.
Your toolbox may not make you anymore money, but it can say a lot about your image.
I hear this all the time, total BS. Your knowledge and the way you handle yourself says way more than a tool box. In my experience the techs I have seen with the largest toolboxes are the worst in the shop. My toolbox has never helped me get a job, actually they never saw it until I rolled it into the shop. I was offered a job at a dealership one time and had to decline, they required all there techs to have red toolboxes with silver trim. I promptly chuckled and told them "no thanks". People keep touting the resale value of SO tools, this has always been the last thing on my mind when I have bought tools.
I forgot to mention before I posted. All these people that are claiming being hurt by there cheap tools that broke, either you are BSing or you really need to learn about tool safety and learn how to work safely. One poster claims busted knuckles on a frame when a wrench broke or slipped, easy solution, never push on a wrench with a closed hand. I'm still trying to figure out how you could be impaled by a broken breaker bar. I have broken many tools in my day but never hurt myself unless I was not using safe work practices. This comes from someone that spent twenty years making a living in GM dealerships.
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What would help a fireman's career is EMT. We probably have some volunteer FF here. I am a military trained FF. Real firemen do jobs you don't want to know about. The joke in my house is to never make friends with or date a fireman or ER nurse. And if you do, don't ask what they did last weekend.
Firemen where I live don't put out fires. They pick up the bodies of teenagers who died in drink driving accidents or motorcycle accidents like EVERY WEEKEND. They drag lakes looking for abducted children and respond to police calls from neighbors who haven't seen their elderly neighbor in days. Its the greatest job in the world and the worst job in the world.
Got to work with some military medics over the last few years. Don't ask them what they did last weekend either.
Tech School isn't a bad idea. I see a lot of similarities between medicine and auto repair (its technical, the diagnostic portion is very similar, tool use, sometimes messy, appropriate care for the patient, etc).
I wanted all my kids to go to tech school.
You're a physician?
Yeah the OP should consider becoming an EMT or paramedic perhaps instead of just solely a FF. Open up more doors. Paramedics can give injections and start IV's, I think? So they have to study longer. I have no experience in FF. A friend of mine is an EMT/FF. Doesn't take long to become an EMT; I think just a few months.
I think a lot of FF's and LEO's are part-time, at least around here, with these shrinking municipal budgets. But the OP might can get hired FT especially if he passes at least the EMT training. Or get hired FT at an ambulance co..
A lot of the PT/volunteer FF's around here work in the trades for their FT gigs. So it's not probably unheard of for the OP to want to pursue becoming an auto tech.
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HomeTheaterMan
Well-known member
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- Apr 3, 2016
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- 493
This makes me think even more so that you shouldn't spend your money on a SO box, but that you should still buy all of the quality tools that you can.Thanks again! I should have mentioned that I do not think that I will do this as my profession. I plan on being a firemen, but then do this to fix my cars and maybe some on the side. Kinda like a side hobby. If I do this, then I am thinking that I will need a lot of the items in the kit due to the variety of cars I will be working on. What are your takes on this?
If you're not in and out of it all day everyday a truck brand tool box becomes less important imo. I'd get all of the SO tools I could afford and go get a HF 44" box or similar.
"I have to agree with the ones that said that they would rethink working on cars. It is getting tougher and tougher out there. Like has already been said, manufacturers are cutting times left and right. GM has actually started monitoring their tech forums and changing times as people post shortcuts. If you say this does not apply to me as I'm going to work for an independent, think again. All the labor time guides base their times off of the manufacturer's warranty times. I have found that you can take warranty time and add 1/3 to it and get the cash time that the aftermarket guides list and it works probably %99 of the time. Working on cars will als beat the $hit out of your body, it may be fine now but think twenty years from now. The last few years I worked at a dealership I would get home and just about fall down I was so beat. To make any money you have to bust your a$$ for eight hours a day and then the writers and service manager are still wanting more out of you. Have you checked to see what starting pay for an auto tech is where you are? Around the NE most guys out of school are starting around $11/hr at dealers and lower at independents. I know guys that are very good techs three years out of school and not even making $15/hr. It is a complete joke for what you have to spend on education and tools to get started and only get $11/hr...."
Is this true in most areas? My son is a junior in high school and in the vo-tech for half the day. He wants to be an auto tech., but I couldn't imagine not making $18-20 an hour after a few years of working. Especially after buying high end tools and attending a UTI or Lincoln Tech. type school (was shocked to see what Lincoln charged!) Everyone around here seems to be begging for diesel techs and seems to be high need for auto as well.. thanks for any replies.
good to know..I did look into it after he said a recruiter came to school. It seemed to have plenty of negative reviews. Didn't want to discourage him but it seemed like the local 2 year college would be just as good and much less $$. So I'm pushing that.
WhiffySpark
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- Oct 22, 2009
- Messages
- 6,252
good to know..I did look into it after he said a recruiter came to school. It seemed to have plenty of negative reviews. Didn't want to discourage him but it seemed like the local 2 year college would be just as good and much less $$. So I'm pushing that.
Lincoln tech looks better on a resume. And it's all in how he applies himself. I was making 20 when I was 18.
MDK22
Well-known member
If you are going to do this for side jobs. I would recommend that you ask for references of friends for anyone's cars you fix. It will save you hassle of chasing down money that you owe.
As for tools it depends on how serious you plan on making it. If you are going to make it serious i highly suggest getting a $1k air compressor and air tools. Make sure you get an oiler and high flow fittings and drain the tank once a week even if you do not use it. IR has QT styles of impacts. They are very quiet especially if you leave the exhaust filter in. This will help you if you are doing it out of your own garage as it will make happier neighbors. I also suggest cheap sound deadening.
For hand tools there are no real good one size fits all sets any more. Closest you are going to get is buy large sets of sockets and wrenches. I would suggest getting FD+ long patterns Metric and Standard if they are too pricey I would say go for this gearwrench set 81919 44 piece SAE/Metric wrench set or mix and match Metric FD+ long Pattern and Gearwrench SAE 81917
Once again get Grey Pneumatic Grey Pneumatic (1281) 3/8" Drive 81-Piece Master Socket Set will cover just about every size you need when you are just starting out. They are incredible strong but, the swivels you do not want to put the next drive size up on for impact you will snap them with a good impact.
Chrome sockets have the issue that they will torsionally flex more and often round fasteners easier unless you get high quality chrome which is going to cost you probably about as much as the Grey Pneumatic though you should not use it on an impact as because it is a harder and will explode like a hand grenade. While it is rare this will happen with good quality ones i have still seen it happen and chew people up. The cheaper chrome definitely will. I had a piece of a craftsman socket that exploded 50' away hit me right next to my eye.
I already said SO for ratchets.
As for tools it depends on how serious you plan on making it. If you are going to make it serious i highly suggest getting a $1k air compressor and air tools. Make sure you get an oiler and high flow fittings and drain the tank once a week even if you do not use it. IR has QT styles of impacts. They are very quiet especially if you leave the exhaust filter in. This will help you if you are doing it out of your own garage as it will make happier neighbors. I also suggest cheap sound deadening.
For hand tools there are no real good one size fits all sets any more. Closest you are going to get is buy large sets of sockets and wrenches. I would suggest getting FD+ long patterns Metric and Standard if they are too pricey I would say go for this gearwrench set 81919 44 piece SAE/Metric wrench set or mix and match Metric FD+ long Pattern and Gearwrench SAE 81917
Once again get Grey Pneumatic Grey Pneumatic (1281) 3/8" Drive 81-Piece Master Socket Set will cover just about every size you need when you are just starting out. They are incredible strong but, the swivels you do not want to put the next drive size up on for impact you will snap them with a good impact.
Chrome sockets have the issue that they will torsionally flex more and often round fasteners easier unless you get high quality chrome which is going to cost you probably about as much as the Grey Pneumatic though you should not use it on an impact as because it is a harder and will explode like a hand grenade. While it is rare this will happen with good quality ones i have still seen it happen and chew people up. The cheaper chrome definitely will. I had a piece of a craftsman socket that exploded 50' away hit me right next to my eye.
I already said SO for ratchets.
Hello all. I have an opportunity to buy a snap-on tools from the student excellence program. Can anyone recommend what tool set to buy. I will be working on Japanese motorcycles and late model Asian vehicles. I was considering the SEP Premium All Metric Set. Should I consider something else and why? Anything else that would be nice to have as an entry level tech? Thanks.
ScottsGT
Well-known member
Hello all. I have an opportunity to buy a snap-on tools from the student excellence program. Can anyone recommend what tool set to buy. I will be working on Japanese motorcycles and late model Asian vehicles. I was considering the SEP Premium All Metric Set. Should I consider something else and why? Anything else that would be nice to have as an entry level tech? Thanks.
I'd start with the obvious. 1/4" and 3/8" socket sets along with a ratchet that feels good in your hands, wrenches and screwdrivers. Don't get hung up on buying everything SO. Honestly, you can start out with a lower end box from HF and not get trapped into working "for the company store" for the next 20 years or more.
Do your best to pay cash and avoid the debt. But your program you're taking should have a list of mandatory tools you need. When my son went, I knew he wasn't going to use a lot of the 1/2 drive stuff after school, so I got him HF. Of course all I use at home in 1/2 is HF as well, and I have zero complaints.