Automatic Compressor Drains

[Dividing Creek]

I did a search on these and most of the posts were 3-4 years ago. Looking for product recomendations.

I have a Cambell Hausfield 5hp 60gal that I bought new in the 80's. Two years ago I bought an old dairy farm and put the compressor upstairs in the dairy barn in the space that used to be the hay mow.
I have never had an auto drain and like most **** @ remembering to drain the tank regularly. In my case there is a pita ladder to get upstairs. Since its upstairs running a drain line out under the eave would be easy. Is the $8.99 drain @ Harbor Freight any good ? Seems like these jump from from $10 for mechanical to $100+ for the the electric stuff with not much in between.

I had found this write up of an install of the HF setup. http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/

 

[mslisaj]

Years ago I had one of the Grainger's Automatic Mechanical Drains. It was triggered by the change of air pressure between the compressor cycles. I had two of them and each one only lasted about six months before they just corroded up and wouldn't work any more. Now I just have a ball valve at the bottom but this is an excellent question as I would love to have a very reliable auto drain too..............

Lisa

 

[Chris Adams]

I'm using a HF drain. The cheap one. But it wasn't that cheap.

Two serious weak points.
It is rated for low pressure.
That is the nylon line from a T you put in the check valve bleed off, between the in tank check valve and the D-switch.

On mine, the line was copper. They include a T for nylon. So a few bucks for Ferrels and caps, then I could tie it to my copper lines.
I found a pack of Ferrals at Lowes cheaper than three at HD. So I have lots of spares.

Next, the nylon line they route from the T down to another T at the unit under the tank.
The nylon is rated way below my 175 lb pressure. Besides, it looked cheap so I sprang about ten bucks for soft copper tubing.

This would have been cheaper at a real hardware store, or even OSH, where you could buy it by the foot.

I didn't bother because the three extra feet I bought came in handy on another compressor project.

Finally, and most important, the bottom T they provide *****. It leaks. I tightened it till it cracked, with it still leaking.

The replacement one also leaked.
Forget sealer, it will leak at 175 lbs.
I priced T's in brass, and black iron. 2.65 for iron, 9.50 in brass...
I just happened to have a leftover brass 1/8 T in my brass box, so I didn't buy the iron T. Also needed a 1.69 brass ******. Have lots of them so didn't spend any money there.

So after upgrading the fittings at the top, and upgrading the fittings at the bottom, it works great.
If you have a nylon line from your check valve to the d-switch, and are willing to risk the soft nylon line, all I would suggest is an iron T at the bottom.
Oh, I also 'upgraded' the manual drain they include to a 3.75 cent one from Lowes.

So if your tank hits no more than 135 lbs, is not as fat as my 80 gallon, and you use nylon, figure just an extra 3 bucks or so for the bottom T.

It's cycled about two hundred times since I installed it.
I like it.

Well worth the probably thirty bucks I have in it.
I confess to often forgetting to drain the tank.
Here in the desert over the years I've almost never got water.
But it's been so cold and wet the last couple years the tank needs constant draining.

 

[Eds Garage]

I went through 2 of the Harbor freight ones and both lasted about 1 weak before not working and leaking. This is definitely one of those items that gives them their reputation. Sometimes stuff is OK, sometimes ****. This was ****.

 

[dude67]

That's funny I have had the same HF auto drain on my compressor for 10 years or so with no problems. I used copper from the valve to the tap pressure. Not that cheap plastic line they give you.

 

[ptschram]

I have an HF unit, it's been running daily for almost well, my Craftsman compressor died in '04 so it's almost seven years now. Copper tubing, nylon presto-lok fittings and new O-rings and it's good to go.

 

[chillrich]

I changed my Craftsman horizontal comp to a vertical. Would like to make it easier to drain w/o moving it every time. Instead of getting a new drain installed, could I install an external drain on a tubing which is easy to access from the existing drain which is now 1/2 way up the tank? If I leave the existing drain open will water accumulate in the tube instead of the bottom of the tank.

How difficult would it be to put in another drain on the bottom of this tank?

 

[PT Doc]

I changed my Craftsman horizontal comp to a vertical. Would like to make it easier to drain w/o moving it every time. Instead of getting a new drain installed, could I install an external drain on a tubing which is easy to access from the existing drain which is now 1/2 way up the tank? If I leave the existing drain open will water accumulate in the tube instead of the bottom of the tank.

How difficult would it be to put in another drain on the bottom of this tank?

Many compressors have extensions from the factory with a ball valve at the end. The ball valve ens up just at the exterior of the footprint of the compressor. You could further extend this as far as you want.

Many threads discussing drain valve extensions on here. Search and you'll have plenty of reading.

 

[chillrich]

Thanks, that's what I was looking for, if the drain line is lower than the bottom of the tank it will accumulate water.

 

[MP&C]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#compressed-air-condensate-drain-valve-strainers/=ff2gnb


I have version C in 120V. The price was about 125 when I bought it about 8 years ago, it's been working flawlessly since.

 

[01ssreda4]

Mine worked perfect for about a year until I switched compressors and didn't install it on the new one. I just put a ball valve on instead. Put it on the shelf, maybe I will give it somebody who wants it one day. Nothing wrong with it.

 

[rwhite692]

Years ago I had one of the Grainger's Automatic Mechanical Drains. It was triggered by the change of air pressure between the compressor cycles. I had two of them and each one only lasted about six months before they just corroded up and wouldn't work any more. Now I just have a ball valve at the bottom but this is an excellent question as I would love to have a very reliable auto drain too..............

Lisa

Had the same experience with, and gave up on, the auto drains. They also tended to not stay open long enough to truly get all the water out. They would operate in short "bursts" and this was never enough to really be effective. plus, you never really knew for sure if any water remained in the tank.

My current 120 gallon compressor just has a manual ball valve and a length of clear hose which tucks out under the garage door. I just remember to drain every couple of weeks and I KNOW all the water is out, because I can see it drain.

I won't bother with the auto drain valves again...

 

[metaleltr]

Check with industrial compressor service companies. They perform routine maintenance that often involves replacing parts that are functioning fine. We have two that were obtained this way when the compressor at the school that my dad works at was serviced.

 

[Falcon67]

I wanted one, but I could never get past using the ball valve. I put a 90 on the bottom of the vertical tank, stub, 45, stub, 45, ball valve and stuck it out the wall. Put another 45 on the end pointing down and away from the building. I walk to the tank anyway to shut the 3/4 gate valve to the air system when I leave the shop, so reaching down and opening the drain for 2-3 seconds isn't much effort. Since I have neighbors across the alley, in this shop I'll come out the wall and 90 into a 1/2 pipe stuck in a hole filled with gravel. That should muffle the venting noise.

 

[chrommagman]

I think I am going to buy it and give it a shot! The nylon looks okay. The pressure bleed off valve that came with my compressor is nylon so I have hope!