Automatic tank drain on a Champion VR5-8 Vertical Compressor

[pblanton]

I bought a 20 year-old Champion air compressor cheap, and had to spend some time and money on it in order to get it ready to use.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264557

The remaining question I have on it is about the automatic tank drain. I understand that it is supposed to drain the tank of any water whenever a fill cycle completes, but I don't understand it. Where does the water come out? How can I ensure that the automatic tank drain is functioning properly?

 

[rcjoy]

I'm assuming there is a fitting at the very bottom of your tank. Connect it there.

 

[malibu101]

Any water is blown out the little open ended tube on the side of the autodrain. It will be more of a vapor than liquid.

I have a newer Champion just like yours and got rid of my autodrain due to 2 reasons.
1- The autodrain leaked air. I took it apart and there was dirt between the washer and the seat.
So I wondered where the dirt came from?
2- Where the 1/4" copper line goes into the bung on the side of the tank there is a flexible hose inside from that bung that lays on the bottom of the tank to **** in any water. My hose was deteriorated.
I removed everything autodrain and put a ball valve in the bottom of the tank and drain it manually.

 

[pblanton]

That open-ended tube is folded and crimped closed. I tried removing it, but it just spewed air out. I presume mine is also fouled and leaking air, and that the previous owner sealed up the end of the tube.

 

[malibu101]

That open-ended tube is folded and crimped closed. I tried removing it, but it just spewed air out. I presume mine is also fouled and leaking air, and that the previous owner sealed up the end of the tube.

I fully agree with you assumption.
If the valve seat is bad air will come out of this pipe constantly. The PO crimped it and left well enough alone.

Take the autodrain off and take it apart to check it. It is very simple and nothing will come flying out at you nor will you need new gaskets to reassemble if by chance it is good. Which I doubt.
Link to exploded parts diagram and operation- http://www.stroupeindustrial.com/pdf/Drain.pdf

Double check the flex hose inside the tank. Just unscrew the brass fitting in the side bung and the hose will come out with it.

Does your tank have a manual drain down on the bottom?

EDIT- MAKE SURE there is no pressure in the tank before unscrewing things or they could fly with powerful force.

 

[ilovevocs]

I ditched my auto drain on my IR. It was a times drain and would cause the compressor to cycle at night. I live in a residential area do an 80 it running at 3:00am isn't really practical. If I used it daily I would have put it on a timer so it only ran during the day but I just went low tech and installed a valve. Plumbed pex from the valve to my sump crock so i don't have to deal with the mess on the floor.

 

[malibu101]

I ditched my auto drain on my IR. It was a times drain and would cause the compressor to cycle at night. I live in a residential area do an 80 it running at 3:00am isn't really practical. If I used it daily I would have put it on a timer so it only ran during the day but I just went low tech and installed a valve. Plumbed pex from the valve to my sump crock so i don't have to deal with the mess on the floor.

Appreciate your input.

However the type of autodrain that the OP is talking about is operated by (and only when) the centrifugal unloader dumps pressure at the end of a run cycle.

 

[pblanton]

yeah... I plugged the output line and removed the auto-tank drain. Of course I would prefer the auto-tank drain, because ... damn... I have an auto-tank drain in an area where the humidity would result in about a pint of water over a 20-year run... but that's not important; I still want it.

The tank drain mechanism is a bit hard to take apart. It's still sitting on my workbench soaked in knocker-loose.

 

[pblanton]

For those of you who aren't aware...

http://www.grainger.com/product/CRC-Knocker-Loose-R-16-oz-3EED4

 

[EOC_Jason]

Are you going to try and repair your existing tank drain setup or get a new one?

Don't go the electric route, those are junk. Not only have people told me they will get stuck open with any bit of debris, I've had the experience first hand from my stupid neighbor that thought it would be okay to stick their compressor like 3' from the property line. Not only do the electrics work off a timer that runs 24/7, when they get stuck open then the compressor can end up running all night. I've often thought about what a .308 would have done going through that tank... But thankfully they finally moved and took that stupid compressor with them.

There was a nice auto drain that worked off the unloader line like yours, it had a strainer to catch debris and also the valve was more a shearing action so it lessened the chance of getting stuck open. Also those styles (like yours) only cycle when the pump does. Wish I could remember where I saw it.

 

[Squankum]

I use this, it's OK, you could build the kit yourself for slightly less money:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/campbell-hausfeldreg;-drain-extension-kit

This involves no bending over and is super convenient.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q6KBJC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Does your tank have a ******** in the bottom?

 

[EOC_Jason]

I got tired of having to always use a pair of pliers and a small cup and lay on the ground sideways to drain the tank with that stupid cheap twisty thing they stick on most tanks.

Found a few bits I had laying around and brought out the drain line with a ball valve on the end. Much easier to drain now and typically whatever water might build up ends up in the pipe underneath.