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Automotive fuses for ac?

alwaysFlOoReD

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I'm wondering if I can use automotive fuses in a red-neck adapter. I've built a cord that plugs into my generators' 30amp/240v, and at the other end I have added several different ends so I can use different tools. I have a 50amp/240V welder outlet, a 30amp/240V outlet, and a couple 15amp/120V outlet. In a thread about my hot air welder I realized that I could potentially doing something dangerous if I don't limit the amperage at the 15amp outlets.

Can I use a automotive 15amp/12V maxi-fuse in line for the 15amp/120V outlet?
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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Thanks. I'm trying to wrap my head around why or why not it will work. I don't have a very good working knowledge of the theories hence the question.

Edit; I remember old style fuseboxes using a socket base fuse similar in use to the maxi-fuses I originally asked about. So if we compared a 15 amp/12V fuse to a 15amp/120V fuse, how would the filament differ?
 
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pattenp

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Think of it this way, 15A @ 12V is 180 watts, whereas 15A @ 120V is 1800 watts. So what happens when you pull 1800 watts through a 180 watt capable fuse?
 

LXCam

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Not only that but the insulation rating of the assembly. 12v ain't **** but start putting a higher voltage may exceed the dielectric properties of the holder.
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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I guess the cheapest best option would be to wire in a small household type fuse box?

I'm going to hit up the local electrical supply and see what they have to offer.
Thanks everyone.
 
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alfredeneuman

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There are cartridge style fuses that are rated for up to 250 volts (instead of 32v) that look like automotive fuses.

They are used in microwave ovens and the like, and should be available from any appliance supply.

Edit:
The parts number of the fuse you want is a Bussman ABC-15-R
 
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matt_i

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I think bussman glass fuses are 250vac rated and would just need a small enclosure. Easily a single gang metal box w the spring clip holder.
 

Aceman

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Think of it this way, 15A @ 12V is 180 watts, whereas 15A @ 120V is 1800 watts. So what happens when you pull 1800 watts through a 180 watt capable fuse?

That's not true.

Using your logic, we would have to use fuses specific to every voltage. I can tell you I don't buy 120v, 208v, 277v, and 480v fuses. I buy 250v and 600v fuses to cover those ranges.

The voltage rating has more to do with clearances between live parts and proper insulation thicknesses.
 

pattenp

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That's not true.

Using your logic, we would have to use fuses specific to every voltage. I can tell you I don't buy 120v, 208v, 277v, and 480v fuses. I buy 250v and 600v fuses to cover those ranges.

The voltage rating has more to do with clearances between live parts and proper insulation thicknesses.

I knew someone would call me out on my example. Bottom line is the fuse cannot have a lower voltage capacity than the voltage being fused.
 

Mr. T

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You can always use a fuse rated for a higher voltage than needed but never lower. The voltage rating is essentially how much potential the fuse can safely interrupt without creating a sustained arc. So, a 15A fuse will always blow at a certain point above 15Amps of load no matter what it's voltage rating. However, a fuse rated at 12V is not made to keep 120V of potential from arcing across the now open element.

In short, when that 12V fuse blows, the current will likely continue to flow until there is enough distance of open "air/space" to quench the arc. In practice this will happen when the material in the fuse has been sufficiently removed by melting away or catching on fire.
 
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