Automotive lifting points pinch welds vs frame or subframe

[mikebsnyder]

I have the ALI book but my question with one of my vehicles, a Jeep Commander, it feels more stable lifting by the pinch welds than it does lifting by the frame. Part of it the rear DS is obstructed from getting an even point because the gas tank is there. So yes I can get an adapter for that arm but is it “ok” to just lift from the pinch welds?

 

[protegeV]

I have the ALI book but my question with one of my vehicles, a Jeep Commander, it feels more stable lifting by the pinch welds than it does lifting by the frame. Part of it the rear DS is obstructed from getting an even point because the gas tank is there. So yes I can get an adapter for that arm but is it “ok” to just lift from the pinch welds?

As long as they aren't rusted, crushed, or otherwise deteriorated you should be fine.

 

[abachman]

...and you can get an adapter for your floor jack so you don't crush the pinch weld. It is kind of a U-channel and fits where the saddle would be in your jack.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

...and you can get an adapter for your floor jack so you don't crush the pinch weld. It is kind of a U-channel and fits where the saddle would be in your jack.

A 2x4 with a slot cut into it.

 

[RacerX]

A 2x4 with a slot cut into it. [emoji106]

This!

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[driz]

A 2x4 with a slot cut into it.

That’s what I use. I cut the slot 1/4” wide . Then stuff a shop rag into the slot staple it on place and cut off the excess. It helps keep you from scrubbing the paint off [emoji847].
I much prefer to find a solid jack point if I can find one . Trouble is these days many cars don’t have anything like that so you’re stuck using the jack points.


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[toplessHO]

That’s what I use. I cut the slot 1/4” wide . Then stuff a shop rag into the slot staple it on place and cut off the excess. It helps keep you from scrubbing the paint off [emoji847].
I much prefer to find a solid jack point if I can find one . Trouble is these days many cars don’t have anything like that so you’re stuck using the jack points.


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better hope the 2x4 doesnt split because of the slot cut.
I would wrap it with some steel banding.
I have hard rubber blocks with slots in them for this

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The slot goes across the grain. Could always nail a couple of 1x4 to the 2x4 with a gap. Or use a 4x4 if your worried. If I could find a cheap hockey puck I would try it. I don't know anybody that plays hockey and the stores' pucks are more expensive than a 2x4.

 

[driz]

better hope the 2x4 doesnt split because of the slot cut.

I would wrap it with some steel banding.

I have hard rubber blocks with slots in them for this

Yup I made one like that for my Hyundai’s. Just a little shaping to fit in the webbed areas or weld 2 pieces of channel together. That will keep it together.
If you don’t want to go to the headache of doing that it’s easier just to mass-produce them and throw them away as they break. It’s about is hard to make six or eight of them is it is one. Before I made my bracket mine lasted about a year each before they split too much and have to get thrown out.
Those pucks are nice but not cheap and harder than a piece of wood. I like the block better as it has more surface area to spread out the weight


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[Skin]

A 2x4 with a slot cut into it.

Might work for a temp lift pad but don't do this if you plan to support the vehicle while working.

 

[Jazz1]

I cut slots in $.99 practice hockey pucks to use with my floor jack.

That's excellent!

 

[K13]

The slot goes across the grain. Could always nail a couple of 1x4 to the 2x4 with a gap. Or use a 4x4 if your worried. If I could find a cheap hockey puck I would try it. I don't know anybody that plays hockey and the stores' pucks are more expensive than a 2x4.

Really? Canadian Tire sells them for $2. How cheap are you expecting them to be?

 

[mikebsnyder]

I lift 99% of vehicles I work on from the pinch welds. Many vehicles have reinforced lift points on the pinch welds or even an arrow designating the lift point.

The only time this is not applicable is with trucks, especially large trucks, with an actual frame. Or with some vehicles that have some other form of lift point. Most modern vehicles are unibody and don't have frames, even if they look like they do, so you run the risk of damaging something.

Note that I use 2 post lifts with 2 lift arms on each side. Aside from the 4 post racks, every shop I have worked in had this setup. But the same concept should apply when using a floor jack. If you are jacking a truck, put the jack under the rear differential and jack stands under the axle. If lifting from the front there should be a cross member you can lift from and put jack stands under that cross member or each control arm.

Jeep Liberty, Patriot and Commanders are all ok to lift from the pinch welds. We had 3 or 4 Jeep's in the shop the other day, none of them were Wranglers.

Thank you - I should have specified I have a 2 post lift as well. Lifting my 2500 no problem, MINI no problem, this one just threw me because you’d think frame would be best but gut said maybe not.

 

[ex-x-fire]

A 2x4 with a slot cut into it.

Why waste time with wood? I use tire treads, I bolt them on the hoist lift arms.