Automotive multi meter

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Hey guys. I need some recommendations for a 100$ or under dmm. I'm getting the power probe iii master kit soon, and I think a decent multi meter would compliment it. I use a fluke 88v right now, but it's not mine. Looking to get my own. If you know of say a 30$ meter that's good for automotive please share. I'll use it for testing resistance, voltage, etc.

 

[Murphy4570]

Fluke!

Don't be afraid to spend a bit of coin. A good reliable DVOM is a required tool in any mechanic's toolbox. What is even more important is the electrical theoretical knowledge required to use it effectively!

I'd splurge and get a model that can measure amperage if you can afford it. Having this feature allows you to perform parasitic draw tests.

 

[zkling]

This has been beat to death so many times in the past few months.
The best budget meter (<$50) you are going to find on a regular basis is an older Fluke 27FM. But don't expect it to have all the features of the 88 you're use to. What all features of the 88 do you actually use?

 

[richfinn]

I would get the quality multimeter before the PP3 kit.

PP3 doesn't do anything a meter won't do really

 

[joel63]

IMHO a quality multi meter is an absolute must!
It is a tool for which you will find no substitute.
If you have access to a Snap On truck, checkout the EEDM504D.
It goes for $238. (Don't panic.)
Then look around on Ebay, where you can find it for a lot less.
I can't recommend it enough.
I have 2 of them. First one off the truck, second one from Ebay.
Bottom line here, a multi meter is one tool where you should avoid trying
to cheap out.
Ok, don't mean to preach to you, just trying to help you avoid that "I should have........" feeling.

 

[MLB0611]

First, I would recommend a NOT buying a new DVOM that costs $30. my Fluke leads cost way more than that. This is a precision instrument, a good Meter with good leads is a must! Get a EEDM503D for 160 of the Snap On truck, or a good used fluke and get new replacement leads from fluke, still not cheap the good lead kit is 100 bucks IIRR.

 

[MLB0611]

I think its a good thing because it is an automotive meter that it should have been shown at least measuring the automotive functions, tach at least.

Why would a modern Auto tech need RPM? Modern cars do not have a way to hook up to check RPM, except with a scan tool, oh and every OBD2 system has RPM listed as a PID

 

[fst4dr]

Whatever you get make sure it has atleast 10 mega ohms resistance. Last thing you want is your cheap generic DVOM to fry a module by pulling to much current. I agree with some other comments here, first a good meter then get the pp

 

[Brownsfan]

I have a Klein MM2000. Does everything I need and more. And it's right at your price point. I do nothing but auto electrical and this meter for the money had just about everything I needed. Even does temp.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-MM2000/202521275/
This coupled with a set of load pro leads you can't go wrong

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Those snap on meters look like amprobe meters. Are any of those recommended?

 

[signcrafter]

I would get the quality multimeter before the PP3 kit.

PP3 doesn't do anything a meter won't do really

I'd agree with you about getting a meter before the PP3. While the meter can do almost everything the PP3 does there are some times the PP3 will shine. I really consider them two totally different tools and use them for totally different things. The meter is my go to for diagnostics with my load pro leads on it. It's what I grab anytime I'm looking for a problem. But if I'm installing a remote starter or something like that I grab the PP3. It's great for working under the dash with the led lights and can use it as a logic probe to see if wire is power or ground without switching leads around and can send power or ground to things if needed. In my opinion they do different things, or at least are better at doing different things. Both are handy to have but like you if I had to choice one the meter would be the first.

 

[Brownsfan]

What he said.

 

[Adam.C]

Fluke 17B
Download Fluke's "beat the book" to determine what features you really do and do not need. Ebay for new leads and clips since new Fluke leads are crazy money. The included leads stink.

 

[Gary S]

I have a Fluke and some Harbor Freight $9 cheapies. They all read the same. Get one good one and keep it in a safe place. Then get a handful of the cheapies and put one in every vehicle. If the cheap ones get broken from abuse, get another one.
I've checked them, and they read within 0.01 volts between the Fluke and the Harbor Freight. Nobody needs better accuracy than that on a car or your garage electric.

 

[cbrxfr67]

i vote atd

http://atdtools.com/5570

 

[richfinn]

I'd agree with you about getting a meter before the PP3. While the meter can do almost everything the PP3 does there are some times the PP3 will shine. I really consider them two totally different tools and use them for totally different things. The meter is my go to for diagnostics with my load pro leads on it. It's what I grab anytime I'm looking for a problem. But if I'm installing a remote starter or something like that I grab the PP3. It's great for working under the dash with the led lights and can use it as a logic probe to see if wire is power or ground without switching leads around and can send power or ground to things if needed. In my opinion they do different things, or at least are better at doing different things. Both are handy to have but like you if I had to choice one the meter would be the first.

Hi Scott I replied to your PM

 

[Tarheelgarage]

IMHO a quality multi meter is an absolute must!
It is a tool for which you will find no substitute.
If you have access to a Snap On truck, checkout the EEDM504D.
It goes for $238. (Don't panic.)
Then look around on Ebay, where you can find it for a lot less.
I can't recommend it enough.
I have 2 of them. First one off the truck, second one from Ebay.
Bottom line here, a multi meter is one tool where you should avoid trying
to cheap out.
Ok, don't mean to preach to you, just trying to help you avoid that "I should have........" feeling.

Save yourself some $ and just buy the TPI 183a multimeter and get the same meter for $160 on Amazon. Snappy rebadges this same meter and jacks the price up.

http://testproductsintl.com/183A.html

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095X66V0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
TPI makes good meters.

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Another good meter is this sperry offered on Ebay new for $79 shipped


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ideal-A-W-S...307?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4850233a6b

One of the guys in the shop bought one and it is the same as an older OTC 600 series that I owned in the late 90s. A great meter.

 

[scaron]

go fluke all the way; why skimp and regret it later? consider the fluke 70-series... it really depends if you need some of those "automotive" features but the 77 was always a good solid basic meter, 78 was the automotive meter of the line, or the (almost) top tier 79. the 76 was probably (paradoxically, given its model number) the king of the 70-line; it was TRMS plus all the features of the 79. keep an eye out for the 70-III series meters; those are a great value with probably 90% of the functionality of the 87V in the 79III for maybe 40-50% of the price on the used market. all around the 70-series are great meters with the legendary fluke quality, and you shouldn't have any problems finding one in good shape for less than a hundo. the major difference between the 7x and 8x series is just one of precision; do you really need like four and a half digits that the 8x series offers? other notable differences is that the 8x can run a thermocouple directly and has a backlit display. nothing too vital to the basic work of a multimeter.

folks asking this question, i always pass along the link below. it should be a big help to you getting it all figured out.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/Fluke-Meters-Models-and-Series-main-/10000000007478323/g.html

 

[joel63]

Save yourself some $ and just buy the TPI 183a multimeter and get the same meter for $160 on Amazon. Snappy rebadges this same meter and jacks the price up.

http://testproductsintl.com/183A.html

http://www.amazon.com/183a-Multimete...words=tpi+183a
TPI makes good meters.

Thanks for adding to my suggestion.
I knew the Snappy was a rebadged meter, but I didn't remember who made it first.
I've found it to be an excellent and reliable meter. Replacement fuses are a little pricey though.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

I think I'm sold on the 183A. What do you guys think in your opinion? I do a lot of audio installs (subs, head units, speakers, amps), so I do need the resistance reading as well as voltage readings. I'm really on the fence now. I was going to get the PP3 kit and a cheaper multi meter, but i don't know now. You guys who use the PP3 and a multi meter, if it came down to getting rid of one, which would you get rid of? What can the PP3 do that the multi cant, and visa versa? I vaguely know how to use a multi meter to get by with what i need it for. Testing things like speakers for resistance, sensors and such i can do, but very amateurishly. I know the PP3 can tell + and -, add power and ground and give voltage. Is that about it? If i learn how to properly use a multi meter, would it be more efficient than the PP3.

 

[gte718p]

You know you can make a power probe for $5 it's a couple of leads, a point, a resister, a led, a battery, and I believe the new ones have a buzzer. I believe I got the plans for mine here or on pirate. It turned out to be more useful then I expected but no were near worth the asking price for a real one.

I'm out of town without my computer. I'll see if I still have the wiring diagram for it when I get home.

 

[Brownsfan]

The TPI 440 is another great choice . I have it. A little pricey but has an oscope built in. Great for car audio.

 

[signcrafter]

I think I'm sold on the 183A. What do you guys think in your opinion? I do a lot of audio installs (subs, head units, speakers, amps), so I do need the resistance reading as well as voltage readings. I'm really on the fence now. I was going to get the PP3 kit and a cheaper multi meter, but i don't know now. You guys who use the PP3 and a multi meter, if it came down to getting rid of one, which would you get rid of? What can the PP3 do that the multi cant, and visa versa? I vaguely know how to use a multi meter to get by with what i need it for. Testing things like speakers for resistance, sensors and such i can do, but very amateurishly. I know the PP3 can tell + and -, add power and ground and give voltage. Is that about it? If i learn how to properly use a multi meter, would it be more efficient than the PP3.

Like I said above I use the meter for diagnostic work mostly. I use the PP3 for installing things like remote starts. Two different tools for two different tasks in my opinion, even though what they can do overlap a little. If you can only have one get a meter. A meter can do almost everything a PP3 can do. You can always make up some fused jumper wires with a switch to send power to things. Can also buy a logic probe for probably 20 bucks or so that you can back probe wires to find power and ground. You can do this with a meter also but have to keep switching the leads. A logic probe you plug in to power like the PP3 and it will tell you ground or power when you touch a wire. I like my PP3 but I could do without it if needed. But a meter is almost a must.

If you can only have one then get a meter and get the PP3 later. Especially if you're just doing audio. Most of the time for amps or subs I will grab my meter. Make a set of jumper wires with a fuse and a switch so you can apply power if needed. Then buy a logic probe for 20 bucks so you can test wires easy. Or just wait until you can afford the PP3. But I would definitely get the meter first if I was you.

 

[unslow1]

I just got a PPIII yesterday. I'm glad to hear it recommended for remote starters. I need to work on a remote starter, electric cooling fans, dash light problem and a custom stereo install in the next few weeks. It can be a pain doing some stuff by yourself. I've done them before with a meter and test light. It just seems like it would be easier with the PPIII. I bought the PP3LS01 for $125 to the door.

 

[vga]

For both home and auto repairs I use a Fluke 117 meter. Its compact, large display and has many functions.

 

[richfinn]

You can identify ground and power just as easy with a DVOM (using a polarity indicator built into the meter).

You can also set to amps and use as a fused jump wire with the added advantage it displays current.

You can also measure ohms which in your job is useful for calculating power/cable requirements.

If you make up an extra long meter lead it will do nearly everything.

At a push the speaker on the PP3 might be good for audio and the LEDs will be good behind the dash.

If you master the meter first you will understand power probes limitations

 

[sdguy55]

The only reason I have not bought a pp3 yet is because I feel I have more I need to learn about electrical.

You have stated yourself that your a beginner to electrical so get a meter instead and then you won't have the danger of frying something.

 

[richfinn]

I'd agree with you about getting a meter before the PP3. While the meter can do almost everything the PP3 does there are some times the PP3 will shine. I really consider them two totally different tools and use them for totally different things. The meter is my go to for diagnostics with my load pro leads on it. It's what I grab anytime I'm looking for a problem. But if I'm installing a remote starter or something like that I grab the PP3. It's great for working under the dash with the led lights and can use it as a logic probe to see if wire is power or ground without switching leads around and can send power or ground to things if needed. In my opinion they do different things, or at least are better at doing different things. Both are handy to have but like you if I had to choice one the meter would be the first.

The only reason I have not bought a pp3 yet is because I feel I have more I need to learn about electrical.

You have stated yourself that your a beginner to electrical so get a meter instead and then you won't have the danger of frying something.

That's good advice

I would add, ohms law revolves around volts/amps/resistance. PP3 only measures one of those. A DVOM does all 3 and is a more comprehensive learning tool.

I've got a PP3 and it's convenient for many basic jobs.

I can see what they are doing with "The Hook"

 

[Nocturnal-G]

I had an ESI 585K multimeter on order but quickly cancelled it due to these threads. Can anyone explain why I need a multimeter that costs so much? I understand its a precision instrument. I noticed someone said something about 10 meg ohms resistance? The 585K looked decent but I'd prefer to be on the safer side working on Mercedes electronics.

 

[richfinn]

I had an ESI 585K multimeter on order but quickly cancelled it due to these threads. Can anyone explain why I need a multimeter that costs so much? I understand its a precision instrument. I noticed someone said something about 10 meg ohms resistance? The 585K looked decent but I'd prefer to be on the safer side working on Mercedes electronics.

The higher the resistance the less current can flow, and you will have less chance of inadvertently zapping some delicate component (although they are now pretty foolproof and shutdown if they don't like something you might do wrong).

Mercedes electronics aren't any different to anyone else's they all work the same way, you just have more of them.

 

[Nocturnal-G]

The higher the resistance the less current can flow, and you will have less chance of inadvertently zapping some delicate component (although they are now pretty foolproof and shutdown if they don't like something you might do wrong).

Mercedes electronics aren't any different to anyone else's they all work the same way, you just have more of them.

No experience with other cars, but MB utilizes fiber optics. It's a PITA sometimes... I'm sure that shouldn't make much of a difference when picking a multimeter since they essentially work the same as copper systems.

Electricity is my weakest point.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

What do you guys think about the tpi 183a? Do you think it's close as good as the fluke feature wise? Or the 192? I have about a 200$ limit on a dmm. Now I'm leaning more towards a dmm and maybe I'll grab a pp3 another time. Glad I got this thread started before Xmas Haha.

 

[richfinn]

No experience with other cars, but MB utilizes fiber optics. It's a PITA sometimes... I'm sure that shouldn't make much of a difference when picking a multimeter since they essentially work the same as copper systems.

Electricity is my weakest point.

Yeah, don't let them fool you it's all proprietary stuff used on Germanic vehicles and you won't be probing into fibre optic cables with a DVOM.

Get the FET book by Dan Sullivan

Look in to automotive networked systems if you want to learn more about fibre optics

 

[richfinn]

What do you guys think about the tpi 183a? Do you think it's close as good as the fluke feature wise? Or the 192? I have about a 200$ limit on a dmm. Now I'm leaning more towards a dmm and maybe I'll grab a pp3 another time. Glad I got this thread started before Xmas Haha.

Take a look at the last multimeter thread from a few days ago some of us listed which features we preferred.

 

[Nocturnal-G]

Yeah, don't let them fool you it's all proprietary stuff used on Germanic vehicles and you won't be probing into fibre optic cables with a DVOM.

Get the FET book by Dan Sullivan

Look in to automotive networked systems if you want to learn more about fibre optics

Thank you for the suggestions Rich!

So do you think the ESI 585K would be fine? I honestly don't see why I need a Fluke or something that's 200 dollars, unless there is a good reason to buy one. It's going to be my first multimeter anyways. A majority of the time with MB, if I get someone who has a CEL and the CEL points to the mass air flow sensor, you just replace it instead of testing it with a multimeter. I've diagnosed bad alternators/voltage regulators, bad batteries through the on-board diagnostic systems as well so I've never really had a need for a multimeter.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

So unless someone else can point me to something better, i think i've narrowed it down to two multi meters. The TPI Model 192 and Model 194. They look very close to the fluke meters, and for the price i hear they're feature packed. The only difference is in AC Volts. One is:

Maximum Input: 1000V
Maximum Resolution: 100μV
Accuracy: +/-0.4%

and the other is:
Maximum Input: 1000V
Maximum Resolution: 100μμV
Accuracy: +/-0.4%

Which one would be better between those two? I found the 192 for $170 and the 194 for $200.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TEST-PRODUCTS-INTL-194-/72-10235

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TEST-PRODUCTS-INTL-192-/72-10230

 

[richfinn]

Take a look at the TMX 589 tech kit for $239 at AES wave, search it on you tube too

I think it might be just what you want

 

[sdguy55]

Thank you for the suggestions Rich!

So do you think the ESI 585K would be fine? I honestly don't see why I need a Fluke or something that's 200 dollars, unless there is a good reason to buy one. It's going to be my first multimeter anyways. A majority of the time with MB, if I get someone who has a CEL and the CEL points to the mass air flow sensor, you just replace it instead of testing it with a multimeter. I've diagnosed bad alternators/voltage regulators, bad batteries through the on-board diagnostic systems as well so I've never really had a need for a multimeter.

I have an esi multimeter on my wish list that I will be ordering shortly. Its the esi 597 and the kit on amazon comes with meter, leads, amp clamp and heat probe for 150.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Way to go richfinn, now ya just threw everything up into the fan! Now i'm all puzzled lol.