Automotive Paint Sprayer Type

[AKMopar]

Hi,

I used the search function but didn't find the answer I was looking for so I am hoping that I can get some recommendations here. I am getting ready to paint my '67 Plymouth. I have very little painting experience and have only painted two vehicles before so I am not a pro and don't plan on doing much painting in the future. I want to do a nice job but I don't have an endless budget (hence the reason I am doing all the work myself) and I am not that particular. I don't want the $5K paint job getting scratched and door dinged. Anyway, can anyone suggest a good paint gun that won't brake the bank? Should I use a conventional gun (which is what I have used in the past) or should I use an HLVP? I have heard that HLVP guns can be difficult to use, especially for the first-timer. Gravity feed or siphon? Any suggestions would be helpful! Thanks in advance for any help!

Jeremy

 

[Rockerbox1]

believe it or not, I have 2 show winning paintjobs (granted local shows, but o well) that were done with a $39 hvlp gun from HF

 

[Dewaynep]

I'll second that. For the money the HF HVLP Gravity feed guns can't be beat. I've used one to paint about 4 cars, no show winners but they came out nice...

 

[creativecars]

Preparation it the key. The HF gravity feed guns seem to be pretty good. Clean the gun well so there is no residue in the gun. Mix and strain the sprayable materials as directed. Put a regulator with gauge at the gun, adjust as necessary. Blast it...

 

[70chevellegsp]

Hi,

I used the search function but didn't find the answer I was looking for so I am hoping that I can get some recommendations here. I am getting ready to paint my '67 Plymouth. I have very little painting experience and have only painted two vehicles before so I am not a pro and don't plan on doing much painting in the future. I want to do a nice job but I don't have an endless budget (hence the reason I am doing all the work myself) and I am not that particular. I don't want the $5K paint job getting scratched and door dinged. Anyway, can anyone suggest a good paint gun that won't brake the bank? Should I use a conventional gun (which is what I have used in the past) or should I use an HLVP? I have heard that HLVP guns can be difficult to use, especially for the first-timer. Gravity feed or siphon? Any suggestions would be helpful! Thanks in advance for any help!

Jeremy

IMHO, go with a gravity feed gun. Less spitting at the end of a cup, ease of cleaning, and more angle flexibility. A well liked gun for professionals and hobbyists alike is the Devilbiss Plus gun. It is a 'compliant' gun, which is between an HVLP and conventional, which means it has good transfer efficiency (amount of paint that actually makes it on the car). If you've never painted before, learning on an HVLP should be no different than conventional or compliant. HVLP's are a lot slower than conventional guns and when those of us, who were used to compliant guns back in the day, made the change, it took a little getting used to. The Plus is a great base coat gun, and an even better clear gun. It comes with 3 tips, and a pressure gauge, and I thinks it's under $400. I've had mine for about 5 years and I wouldn't want to part with it. If that's beyond your budget check out Sharpe's Finex line and Devilbiss Finishline guns. Along with the Plus, I have an early Sharpe HVLP, Finex detail gun, Binks #7 (pressure feed from the '70's) and a #7 knock off for 2 part primers. A lot of good info also at the autobodystore forums. Good Luck!

 

[kc-steve]

Although I'm not a pro either, I agree with others here. I currently use an HF HVLP gun. One thing I did learn recently though, I first used a lower grade PPG paint called Omni and ended up with some slight orange peel that a friend informed me wasn't the gun adjustment. Turns out that when you buy a cheaper paint, you get a cheaper paint job. So next time I will buy the higher quality paint that flows much better. Just a tip.

Steve

 

[Pro-Painter]

Gravity is a must, HVLP is not. However, you will have a hard time finding a non HVLP gravity gun at a good price. If you want a non HVLP find a used Sata-jet 90. It's about the best non HVLP you can buy.


Keep in mind that their is a HUGE difference between a "general spray gun" and an "Automotive spray gun" General spray guns like the HF, Husky, Kobalt, Campbell hausfeld, and Ingersoll rand are set up to spray general coatings like oil based paints, and enamels (AKA rustoulem) They are not set up or designed for fine automotive grade finishes.

The HF gun is OK, but it's not a professional gun. I believe a good painter can get an OK finish from one, But I have a hard time believing you can get an "award winning" finish from one. Basically because no one trained would use a $19.99 spray gun with $500 a gallon clear. Anyone with the talent and training to spray an award winning finish would have to be a professional painter that sprays daily or very often. A HF gun would not physically hold up to this type of use, nor would someone use one to make their living.


When picking a spray gun the first thing you need to get is the specs from your air compressor. Then find a gun that is within it's specs.

A spray gun will only work as well as the compressor allows. It is better to have a cheap gun that is within the output specs of the compressor, then a great gun that needs more then your compressor can give.

HVLP guns use more air volume (CFM) then conventional guns, but conventional guns use a much higher pressure. The higher your pressure is, the more overspray and paint loss you will have.

The differences between low budget spray guns ($100-$200) and professional spray guns ($300-$900) is not going to be noticeable, or used by someone only looking to paint once or twice. Actually, most inexperienced painters will find it harder to use high end guns because they are more difficult to get adjusted out correctly.

Their are still some real nice guns for $100-$200 that come with multiple nozzle combo's that allow you to spray primer, base and clears. The gun I recommend over ALL other guns is the Devilbiss Finishline. (pic below) It has a low CFM requirement perfect for smaller shop compressors , large 1L aluminum cup that is easy to clean, and comes with 3 nozzle combo's to spray almost any automotive finish.

For the money, The Devilbiss finish line is the best gun you can buy.


The only other advice I can give you is to invest in a new 3/8" ID air hose, many filters (inline and bowl) and take your time with everything. Filters are as important as your gun.
OH and stay FAR FAR away from the Devilbiss startingline/Sharpe finex guns. You would be better off with the HF gun. They are the worst spray guns Ive ever seen.

 

[Rockerbox1]

here are a few pics of part of a paintjob I did for my buddy. I have never paid $500 gal for clear, more like $139 gal.
all shot with a HF gun
couple shots of the finnished and reassembled bike.

and for the record, I am not a professional, I am self taught and paint in a homemade booth using mostly duPont paints

 

[Rockerbox1]

oh, and the pic of my Bro holding the fender, was before I cut and polished it so it shows a bit of texture, very minor orange peel

 

[Pro-Painter]

It's a nice looking paint job, I think you have got some real talent and would like to see what you can do with a real automotive spray gun.

But, It looks as I expected. And it's not award winning. In the first picture I can see where the base coat is motted, witch comes from spraying too thick. It looks to me like you had to spray the base thick to get it to level because the gun did not have the atomization needed to lay flat, thin coats.


Judging a spray gun from a single motorcycle is not possible.. You never had any panels to feather too, or any large areas to cover and to keep from flashing nor any panels large enough to even use the full spray pattern of the gun.
The larger the panel, the lager your fan pattern and material needs to be. A gun's performance does not come in to play when your spraying a small motorcycle tank that stays wet the entire time your spraying. A spray can from walmart, can do that.

Cheap guns like the one from HF just can't produce the atomization necessary to hold a 10" fan, be fast enough to complete a stand red wet coat and produce an smooth finish that is required to paint something as large as a car. They just can't do it. Ive tired.
I personally like the HF gun for many coatings and glues, and honestly if I was in your shoes and only needed to paint a small part I would prob use a HF gun. But you need to learn more about your gun before you sell them to people that are spraying high dollar paints on classic cars and expecting the gun to perform as well on a car as it did a gas tank.

 

[mikester]

Ive given this advice before and I'll give it again. Give Paul Masters a call. He has a business called spraygunrepair.com. He's in CT and as far as Im concerned he is the go to man for spray gun advice. Ive bought parts from him and last year he rebuilt my 30+ year old Binks 7 and it came back 2 days later and it was like brand new. Ive given his name to many of my friends and everyone has come back happy. One of my friends bought a rebuilt Sharpe from him for a real good price.

 

[Rockerbox1]

But you need to learn more about your gun before you sell them to people that are spraying high dollar paints on classic cars and expecting the gun to perform as well on a car as it did a gas tank.

well I will quit offering advice here then

 

[1969]

well I will quit offering advice here then

Don't let one person's opinion do that, not everyone can afford a $600.00 Sata, or whatever. I have a $139.00 Finishline HVLP and found it to be quite good. I don't believe it will do the same job as a gun costing 5 times as much, but it works well for me. BTW..... the bike looks good.

 

[70chevellegsp]

OH and stay FAR FAR away from the Devilbiss startingline/Sharpe finex guns. You would be better off with the HF gun. They are the worst spray guns Ive ever seen.

Are you saying they're ugly? Have you ever shot with a Finex, or are you just giving a third party opinion?

Good points on the compressor. If you are shooting an entire car, you need your compressor to keep up and also have a good supply with appropriate filters and water traps. There are also LVLP (Low Volume Low Pressure) guns that are great for hobbyists as they are miserly on thier air requirements, which allows you to shoot with a smaller compressor. There are a few 'compliant' guns available. (The Plus gun I mention above is an excellent choice) HVLP guns are only HVLP if you get 10# of pressure at the air cap, which is based on the recommended input pressure at the gun. If you increase that pressure, you are no longer using an HVLP gun, and will have better atomization and flow, but you are giving up some transfer efficiency. But, now you are testing unknown waters, which isn't usually good for a beginner.

Don't forget about respiratory protection. Charcoal based respirators will block isocyanurates (SP?), but are not approved or recommended since they are odorless and you can't smell them when the cartridges lose their charge. Hobbyair makes a good supplied air system for a reasonable price, plus it keeps you healthy. Wish they had these when I started many years ago.

Nice job on the Harley!

 

[Kirbot]

It's a nice looking paint job, I think you have got some real talent and would like to see what you can do with a real automotive spray gun.

But, It looks as I expected. And it's not award winning. In the first picture I can see where the base coat is motted, witch comes from spraying too thick. It looks to me like you had to spray the base thick to get it to level because the gun did not have the atomization needed to lay flat, thin coats.


Judging a spray gun from a single motorcycle is not possible.. You never had any panels to feather too, or any large areas to cover and to keep from flashing nor any panels large enough to even use the full spray pattern of the gun.
The larger the panel, the lager your fan pattern and material needs to be. A gun's performance does not come in to play when your spraying a small motorcycle tank that stays wet the entire time your spraying. A spray can from walmart, can do that.

Cheap guns like the one from HF just can't produce the atomization necessary to hold a 10" fan, be fast enough to complete a stand red wet coat and produce an smooth finish that is required to paint something as large as a car. They just can't do it. Ive tired.
I personally like the HF gun for many coatings and glues, and honestly if I was in your shoes and only needed to paint a small part I would prob use a HF gun. But you need to learn more about your gun before you sell them to people that are spraying high dollar paints on classic cars and expecting the gun to perform as well on a car as it did a gas tank.

I have seen a lot of fantastic paint jobs from that paint gun from harborfreight.
Is it the best? I doubt it, but the way you make it sound like you need a $500 gun to get good results seems a bit ridiculous to me.

Funny you mention spray cans, I've seen some pretty nice looking cars done with them too.

 

[creativecars]

I think you have got some real talent and would like to see what you can do with a real automotive spray gun.

But, It looks as I expected. And it's not award winning. In the first picture I can see where the base coat is motted, witch comes from spraying too thick. It looks to me like you had to spray the base thick to get it to level because the gun did not have the atomization needed to lay flat, thin coats.


Judging a spray gun from a single motorcycle is not possible.. You never had any panels to feather too, or any large areas to cover and to keep from flashing nor any panels large enough to even use the full spray pattern of the gun.
The larger the panel, the lager your fan pattern and material needs to be. A gun's performance does not come in to play when your spraying a small motorcycle tank that stays wet the entire time your spraying. A spray can from walmart, can do that.

.

Pro-painter, wow.

Since you are a “pro” you must realize there are many variables to how well a paint job looks. Equipment is a very small part. To offer that kind of advise and to tell someone a spray can from walmart can look as good as the motorcycle tank is ridiculous…

I am a Devilbiss fan and I realize when HF makes a copy of a spray gun they don’t choose junk guns to copy. I have sprayed high quality materials with some “junk” expensive guns, and visa versa. You should know it is a combination of variables that must be performed well to achieve a quality finish. And I know people who could use a $700 gun and $500 clear and it still look like ****. And yes, some of the HF guns can atomize proper mixed paint materials to produce a 10” fan pattern, I’ve done it.

A “pro” would know that mottling can be caused from improper mixing , adjustments and/or technique. To come on here and tell someone their equipment isn’t us to your standards, is silly. Using the most expensive stuff does not mean you’re a great painter, just the shop you work at spends a lot on supplies.

 

[Pro-Painter]

If you guys will actually read, You will see the gun I recommended is a $129 Finishline. I never once said you "need a $500 gun". In fact, I said just the opposite. I said that professional guns (over $300) have features that a inexperienced painter will NEVER USE. And in case you still don't understand, That means I don't recommend a gun over $300.

So please, read before you post.



The HF gun is just like everything else at HF. DO you think you found a hidden gem? You really think that a tool that costs $19 is going to keep up with tools that cost $500+ ?

It's nothing to achieve a 3" spray patten for a small tank. And yes I could do it with a ******* spray can. And if you think a spray can paint job looks good, then a HF gun is going to be great for you.. Macco must be show quality.
The HF gun is a poor quality knock off of a very outdated Sata that was not that good to begin with. Offering it up as a quality gun to spray a 1967 Plymouth, that this guy has prob spent countless hours and money on IS BAD ADVICE. It's not a $3000 honda..



As for the finex, They are just sorry guns offered by Devilbiss. I purchase new and used guns for a local student training program and the Startingline and Finex guns come up often due to their low price. And, They are way below the normal quality standards set by Graco (Devilbiss/Sharpe).
IMHO, I like the HF gun better then the Finex/startingline guns. The design of the them is just horrible. The transfer rate is poor, the fluid nozzles leak, the machining is poor, and the cups are the worst design ever. The screw on metal lids leak bad. Their just not the standards I expect from Graco.
The biggest issues with them is the price. For $30 more you can get a nice Sharpe cobalt. Or even better spend $50 more and get a Finishline or a Eastwood Contours gun.

70chevellegsp said some great advice in follow up to mine.



And last, but certainly not least, "Motting" is a collection of metallics/pears due to excessive film build.
Since you like to put "Pro" in quotes so much, like you know something I don't. How about we share a little background on each other so everyone else can see who's who ?.. Ill start.

I'm an ASE certified master collision repair/refinish technician (B2 through B6), And GM/ford I-CAR certified. I'm also certified by Devilbiss/ITW binks, DuPont, PPG and Matrix refinish products. Ive been painting for 10 years, 8 professionally (professionally meaning "pro").

In 2008 I was one of only 37 invited to Leesburg VA where The national institute for automotive service excellence gave me an award for Ford/ASE master collision repair & refinish technician of the year because I was the youngest to ever receive an ASE masters in collision repair. Ive painted countless cars/trucks/suv's over the years both professionally and non, I now own my own shop specializing in SMC fiberglass, & 84-04 corvette restoration and collision repairs.

So, Who are you?

 

[e-tek]

Gravity is a must, HVLP is not. However, you will have a hard time finding a non HVLP gravity gun at a good price.

Keep in mind that their is a HUGE difference between a "general spray gun" and an "Automotive spray gun"

The HF gun is OK, but it's not a professional gun. I believe a good painter can get an OK finish from one, But I have a hard time believing you can get an "award winning" finish from one. Basically because no one trained would use a $19.99 spray gun with $500 a gallon clear .

Anyone with the talent and training to spray an award winning finish would have to be a professional painter that sprays daily or very often.

Holy ****, for a "Pro-Painter", you sure put down a lot of mis-information!!

I'm not jumping on any bandwagon here -and I don't want to make it personal - but I do have to take exeption to a few things you wrote - and I don't care who you are...or what certs you say you have.

The one thing I can agree with you on is the part about how long a cheaper gun will stand up. The seals are of a lesser quality and can blow out if overpressured, otherwise, they're made pretty much EXACTLY the same!!

Now-a-day, an "AWARD WINNING" paint job is generally made in the color-sanding stage. I got my painters ticket in the days of laquer and single-stage enamels. While I will totally agree it takes practice to spray single-stage metallics....todays base-clears are so forgiving, nearly anyone can get a very good paint job, even a metallic one! You have forever now to get the color down right, or to even out metallics....then you have forever to put down 3, 4, 5 coats of clear. You can then cut, sand and polish out orange peel, runs, dirt, a fly, whatever. You can go back and respray a part to an entire panel, buff it and take it to a show....

BTW - I've never heard "mottled" said "motted" and I've NEVER seen a $500 gallon of clear. I'm just calling it as I know it.

 

[creativecars]

E-tec, you may be a bit more mature than I. haha

I too grew up with lacquer (just a bit) and single stage, where you better be on your game with every pass or you will sand it down and do it over. One of the good things about a copy of a quality gun is many times the same rebuild kit will fit both the real or knockoff gun.

But back to the OP question. I would get a HVLP gravity feed gun, but as I was trying to explain, there are many other factors that need to be addressed to achieve pretty nice paint job.
Complete air system, material choices, preparation, technique, facilities, ect…

Pro painter I sent you a PM

 

[Wackerjr]

Pro painter I sent you a PM

handled like a "pro".



It aint in the tools its all in the painter..... Practice makes perfect.....

I have been painting for half my life (only 16 years) and can tell you that I have used tons of guns in my day (current fav is the RP line from SATA)

PErsonally if your looking for something just to get a job or 2 Astro has a few guns that work well.....

Pretty much your going to buy what feels good in your hand then start sprayin..... you'll get it, or pay some one that does

 

[70chevellegsp]

As for the finex, They are just sorry guns offered by Devilbiss. I purchase new and used guns for a local student training program and the Startingline and Finex guns come up often due to their low price. And, They are way below the normal quality standards set by Graco (Devilbiss/Sharpe).
IMHO, I like the HF gun better then the Finex/startingline guns. The design of the them is just horrible. The transfer rate is poor, the fluid nozzles leak, the machining is poor, and the cups are the worst design ever. The screw on metal lids leak bad. Their just not the standards I expect from Graco.
The biggest issues with them is the price. For $30 more you can get a nice Sharpe cobalt. Or even better spend $50 more and get a Finishline or a Eastwood Contours gun.

70chevellegsp said some great advice in follow up to mine.

So, Who are you?

Devilbiss doesn't make the Finex guns, Graco/Sharpe does. The Finex and Startingline guns are different animals from different companies, and you may be confusing the 2. I did notice that the Finex guns have increased in price a bit since I bought mine and may not be as big a value as they once were. (When I bought mine they were all <$100) Again, I'm not saying they are the best, but a good bang for your buck. If I'm understanding you correctly, your saying that you purchase guns for your student program, but you're not saying that you've bought or used either the Devilbiss Startingline or Graco/Sharpe Finex guns?

Regardless of the equipment, you need experience painting to paint well. Some people have a knack and pick it up quickly others don't. You can get good info reading, but you still have to take that and put it into practice to understand and get better. A good painter can get a 'good' job out of a HF, Finex, Startingline gun. He can also assess whether the gun is working properly, which is really the key. If you don't know what the pattern should look like before you start applying paint to your workpiece, you're destined for trouble. If you can't identify when your gun is not shooting properly and what you need to do about it, you could be destined for trouble. There's a lot more to painting than the gun. Buy the best you can afford and learn to use it and you'll be fine. As your skill grows so will your need for more guns and sometimes better guns.

Good Luck!

 

[allinon72]

I can respect the opinion of a professional.....that is until he gets full of himself and starts spouting off, posting pictures of his ASE certifications and such.

Provide advice but be HUMBLE. The arrogance does not help.

 

[kc-steve]

It probably has more to do with insecurity than arrogance when someone tries so hard to convince others of his "abilities."

None of us were born "professional painters" and we will all have to learn from our mistakes, but when someone tells me that my gun is a POS and I know it does a better job than Maaco then anything else that they say is ignored by me.

Someone said it best, it is the painter's experience that makes a good paint job.

Steve

 

[stratplus]

believe it or not, I have 2 show winning paint jobs (granted local shows, but o well) that were done with a $39 help gun from HF

I am just learning, what are you using for a compressor, attachments, etc.

 

[Auzivision]

Maybe the professional painters should have their own forum to split hairs. I just want to be Joe average amateur painter that can make some improvements to a vehicle without breaking the bank. I'm not interested in show quality color or shine, just something that looks decent and I can say I did that myself.

If money was no issue, I'd spend it, but where is the fun in that. Some people buy everything they want and others try to do it themselves. Often not out of need, but about the satisfaction of knowing they learned, adapted, and conquered.

Anyone have some tips, threads, or links to help a budding painter? What are the basic minimums to get started?

Min Compressor (CFM?)
Min Gun (HF)
Min booth (tarps gun in garage with wet floor)

 

[Pro-Painter]

Devilbiss, Binks, Tekna, Sharpe, & ITW are all Graco owned companies and have been for at least 10 years. The Startingline and Finex are the same guns internally. The only difference being a slightly better finish on the Finex.

I have used both the Startingline and finex guns. And they are sorry spray guns. They cost about the same as a Finishline, and have the quality of a Harbor Freight gun. Poorly machined nozzles & fittings that leak, inconsistent spray patterns, and the worst designed cup Ive ever seen. (metal lid on metal cup).

If that is what you want then more power to you. I honestly don't care what you guys consider to be a "good spray gun". Actually, just the opposite. Guys like you make me money.




If anyone really wants to learn to paint, the last thing you should do is take advice from people that have painted one thing in their life. Best advice, go to you local library and get some books on the subject, contact your local community collage and ask to set in on a few classes or purchase some training videos.

 

[lowbucktruck]

So those of you who are experienced painters, a question. Who makes the Craftsman auto gun (model 15535) and how does it compare to other auto spray guns in the $100 to $200 entry-level range? (for us beginners)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915535000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2#specs

 

[creativecars]

Maybe the professional painters should have their own forum to split hairs. I just want to be Joe average amateur painter that can make some improvements to a vehicle without breaking the bank. I'm not interested in show quality color or shine, just something that looks decent and I can say I did that myself.

If money was no issue, I'd spend it, but where is the fun in that. Some people buy everything they want and others try to do it themselves. Often not out of need, but about the satisfaction of knowing they learned, adapted, and conquered.

Anyone have some tips, threads, or links to help a budding painter? What are the basic minimums to get started?

Min Compressor (CFM?)
Min Gun (HF)
Min booth (tarps gun in garage with wet floor)

Auzivision-
As far as the compressor goes, you do NOT want to run out of air while painting. You need enough air pumping (cfm) and air volume (tank size) so that does not happen. A compressor that puts out at least 10CFM @ 90psi with 20 gal. tank would be a min. to spray bigger parts. To do a complete car, 15CFM and a 40 gal air tank would be better.

If you want a HF gun I would go with the gravity feed HVLP guns. I have not personally used this set, http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html but it looks like a good set to start, I'd give it a shot any way.

Booth, Some 6mil plastic, 2X4 or CPVC frame, fans for some ventilation, and wetting down the floor is a good place to start. There are several post of people building a temporary booth on here or you can google it. Hope this helps.

 

[creativecars]

So those of you who are experienced painters, a question. Who makes the Craftsman auto gun (model 15535) and how does it compare to other auto spray guns in the $100 to $200 entry-level range? (for us beginners)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915535000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2#specs

It looks like a modern copy of the Binks #7 gun, been around for a long time. Not much differance form the HF copy http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/heavy-duty-air-paint-spray-gun-97855.html
I have not personally looked at it, but from the pictures it does look like it.
I would rather give the HF Gravity feed HVLP guns http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html
a shot before the old #7.

 

[Pro-Painter]

It looks like a modern copy of the Binks #7 gun, been around for a long time. Not much differance form the HF copy http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/heavy-duty-air-paint-spray-gun-97855.html
I have not personally looked at it, but from the pictures it does look like it.
I would rather give the HF Gravity feed HVLP guns http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html
a shot before the old #7.

I agree, IMO A cheap gravity gun is better then a mid level suction gun. Although the binks model 7 gun was used professionaly for MANY years.

If your willing to spend $89 for that craftsman gun, you should check out the Devilbiss finishline for $10 more. It is a much better gun.

 

[lowbucktruck]

Thanks for the feedback on the Craftsman gun, guys. I am not looking to buy it new from Sears; I picked up a used Craftsman model 15535 gun cheap at an estate sale. I was hoping it would be a decent gun to start learning with. Not looking for good finish coats yet, but would like be able to lay down some primer coats with it.

 

[Pro-Painter]

Thanks for the feedback on the Craftsman gun, guys. I am not looking to buy it new from Sears; I picked up a used Craftsman model 15535 gun cheap at an estate sale. I was hoping it would be a decent gun to start learning with. Not looking for good finish coats yet, but would like be able to lay down some primer coats with it.

Yeah it will be great to learn and to spray primer with. The only downside is with it being a suction it will waste more paint vs a gravity gun.
As mentioned before the gun is basically a copy of a Binks model 7 and the binks model 7 was invented in 1937 and despite minor changes was the same gun used by professionals in the 1980's.
It was the spray my dad used for years and the first spray gun I ever used. In other words it is a style of gun that has outlasted time and been used to spray years of great finishes.

 

[David79z28]

I use a Devilbiss finishline gun, works great. I have heard great things about their starting line guns also.