Automotive repair question?

[rakesdl]

I know that this is the Garage Journal, but I am in the process of re-installing the front hub back onto the crank shaft of a 92 Corvette LT1. I have the factory service manuals and am pretty good at doing mechanical work. But here is the problem, the hub has gone back onto the shaft most of the way, but seems to be hitting something (it won't go any further) I was able to get it to this point by pressing it back on with a threaded bolt braced against the frame. I have been told to use a threaded rod and screw it into the end of the crank shaft then put a socket on the rod with a nut behind it and turn the nut to pull the hub back onto the crank shaft, this scares me to death thinking that I will strip the threads out of the crank shaft. Has anyone ever done this or can someone suggest other ways of getting the hub back on?

 

[krusty the clown]

here's a homemade installer. but they are available from most tool trucks and parts stores.
http://www.pomoforacing.com/tech/BalancerInstaller.pdf

 

[nissan_crawler]

Thrust washer works best, as in that link. grease things well, don't use a bolt, use threaded rod, and for the love of god, don't use grade 2 all-thread.

 

[george4]

I would bet someone on this site had done that job.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance-48/:beer:

 

[usa#1]

Check to make sure your crank gear is all the way on.

 

[Elroy]

Thrust washer works best, as in that link. grease things well, don't use a bolt, use threaded rod, and for the love of god, don't use grade 2 all-thread.

If you're going to make a tool be sure to ask for "B-7" all thread. That will get you a hardened piece typically non-plated.

Also make sure the key stock has not rocked out of the key way. Especially if it's a woodruff.

Good luck to ya.

 

[usa#1]

I'm not sure about the 92 LT1 but the newer versions do not use a crank key.

As far a pulling the hub all the way up, the threaded rod method is the one I've used. I bought the correct "all thread" in grade 8, cut it to length, and used it. Run the all thread in the crank till it bottoms out then back it off a few treads. I turned the nut with a wrench instead of using an air tool so I would have a feel for what was happening.

Good luck

PS: there is a pretty good book available for rebuilding the lt1 by HPBooks number 1393 by Mike Marvrigian

 

[nissan_crawler]

Thanks Elroy, couldn't remember the designation.

 

[T56 Impala]

That is a good book BTW. The LT1 is an interesting engine but nothing special when it comes to assembly. The threaded rod method has always worked for me.

How about an up date? You get it back on yet? Did we overlook a suggestion?

 

[48548]

I had the same problem on a 95 firebird with an LT1, damn optispark, that made me take it apart twice... I did strip out the crank not totally, but I need to drill it out and put in a helicoil or something like that. I think what happened to me, was the hub, was hitting on the new crankshaft key to hold the hub, since the hub wasn't keyed. So you might want to check the key, but like me you will have to take off the timing chain cover to check so it won't be fun. I only know my was off because it was close so I used a hammer after to get it on all the way, but the reason I know it isn't on right, is because I now hear squeaks from the tensioner and I put two knew ones on. I think my harmoic balancer if off a little because the hub isn't seated all the way, and now I need to tear if apart again to fix that. Let me know what you find, because this sounds just like my problem.

 

[rakesdl]

I will not be able to work on it until the weekend, I intend to pull the hub back off and visually check to make sure nothing is stopping it from going on. I have spoke to a friend who is a mechanic and has the hub installer tool that he will let me borrow on the weekend. He tells me the same thing that using the tool should not hurt the threads in the crank, but cautions me to use only hand tools and no air tools putting it back on. To be honest I am glad that I won't be able to work on it until the weekend, because being someone who normally don't have to do much physical labor at my normal job, this job has kicked my a$$. Hats off to Automotive technicians who do this for a living

 

[48548]

Let me know what you find, so I can make sure when I tear my down again, I can see if it is the same thing. I did have a tool to install it, but it went on so tight and I had to install a cover over the hub as the original seal had worn a groove in the hub, not sure what the call it, but there was a part for it, that I installed over the hub. I was glad I didn't need to drive the vehicle, and got the formula for free or I would have been really pissed, I did the whole thing because the timing chain had so much slack you could push between the gears on boths sides of the chain and they would touch each other, from stretching.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

If you're going to make a tool be sure to ask for "B-7" all thread. That will get you a hardened piece typically non-plated.

Also make sure the key stock has not rocked out of the key way. Especially if it's a woodruff.

Good luck to ya.

That is what I was thinking, the key has tipped up behind the damper hub or the hub is rotated and not in line with it.

Elroy, thanks for the tip on the grade of all-thread. Good to know.

It should go on smoothly. If it is going good, and stops, something is WRONG. Quit, figure it out, don't destroy things trying to force it. No hammers please!

Charles

 

[rakesdl]

Well Good News I was able to talk to my local Chevy dealer where my son works. He spoke to the service manager who allowed me to borrow the Kent Moore J-39046 kit. I came home this afternoon and decided to try to put the hub on after I checked to make sure there was nothing holding it from going on. The tool worked like at charm, the hub slid right into place without damaging the threads in the crank shaft Now just waiting on the other parts to come in and will be able to finish the job. I still want to make a tool similar to the one I used, so I will have it in the future, all the advice from forum members concerning proper strength metals of threaded rod and suggestions on how to make the tool will really come in handy when I get ready to fabricate the tool. Thanks again for all who posted info. Closer to back on the road

 

[flat350]

You can rent the correct tool at just about any auto parts store for removal and installation of the harmonic balancer .