Automotive Style Dimmer Switch Wiring Help

[tlmartin84]

I had thought a simple latching switch like this would do what I wanted....

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I have eliminated the floor switch on my '56 build and want to go to a simple switch like this on the dash.

Can this be used as a Dimmer?

This is the closest thing to a diagram I can find, Based off of it I would think that:

3 - 12V in
4 - To High Beam
1 or 2- To Low Beam
5 - Ground
6 - (LED Light on Switch)

Am I correct in my thinking?

 

[Wrench97]

If the light is 110v it will not work on 12v.
What is the amp rating of the switch?

Why not just use a standard 5 prong relay and a on off switch?

 

[tlmartin84]

If the light is 110v it will not work on 12v.
What is the amp rating of the switch?

Why not just use a standard 5 prong relay and a on off switch?

It's a 12V automotive circuit for a headlight dimmer switch.

 

[Copymutt]

Your load line shows only 1 load. How is it going to feed both high & low beams? When you do select a correctly configured switch, be sure your load is switching relays & not feeding directly to the lights. Switch of that design will burn up, not able to handle the amps unless your going LED.
Taking hands off the wheel to dim lights is inferior to tapping a floor switch.

 

[tlmartin84]

Your load line shows only 1 load. How is it going to feed both high & low beams? When you do select a correctly configured switch, be sure your load is switching relays & not feeding directly to the lights. Switch of that design will burn up, not able to handle the amps unless your going LED.
Taking hands off the wheel to dim lights is inferior to tapping a floor switch.

I am well aware that a relay will be required. My question is simply regarding the pinouts based on that diagram.

IF I am reading correctly, terminal No. 1 and No. 2 are Shown as Normally Closed. Wouldn't these be the pinouts for a second load that is off when the load from pinout 4 is on?

Floor switch being safer is a matter of opinion. Manufacturer's have not had floor switches in decades. I could make the argument removing your foot from the brake is also dangerous.

 

[Wrench97]

The relay does the switching, with the relay off pin 30 is connected to pin 87a when the relay is energised pin 30 is connected to pin 87,
Pin 85 and 85 are power and ground to energize the relay.
Pin 85 hooks up to your high beam switch, pin 87 to ground, pin 30 to a headlight switch from a fused power source, pin 87a to the low beams, pin 87 to the high beams.
With the switch off the relay passes power from pin 30 to pin 87a, turn the high beam switch on the relay activates and connects pin 30 to pin 87.
The switch you posted will be fine to control the relay, but does not appear heavy enough to carry the head light circuit load.

 

[tlmartin84]

The relay does the switching, with the relay off pin 30 is connected to pin 87a when the relay is energised pin 30 is connected to pin 87,
Pin 85 and 85 are power and ground to energize the relay.
Pin 85 hooks up to your high beam switch, pin 87 to ground, pin 30 to a headlight switch from a fused power source, pin 87a to the low beams, pin 87 to the high beams.
With the switch off the relay passes power from pin 30 to pin 87a, turn the high beam switch on the relay activates and connects pin 30 to pin 87.
The switch you posted will be fine to control the relay, but does not appear heavy enough to carry the head light circuit load.

Okay I am following this, but the issue with this setup is the head light switch.

The scenario you stated above will work IF I supply power from the head light switch.

BUT I want to supply power directly from the battery or fuse panel. So would I have to run 2 relays? One (A 4 prong relay) from the headlight switch, and then its out put would supply the 12 V source for the 5 prong? That way when it was off the whole system would be off, turn it on, and Low beams would be on.

Then use the latching switch I listed, to control the second relay to toggle between high/low?


I had hoped to power this small switch from the headlight switch, then run to two relays, one for high, one for low. So that in the event of a faulty relay, you would still be left with hi or low beams.

 

[Wrench97]

That switch has a normally open(no) circuit and a normally closed(nc) circuit but in order to use it to turn the lights on it would need 2 normally open positions(1 for each relay)
Similar to the old on-off-on toggle switches, plus you need circuits for parking lights on a separate fuse.

 

[jlv03]

Are you swapping high and low beams? Or when the high beams are on do you want low beams also on?

If you are swapping high with low, using 1 relay with a NO and NC would be perfect. That way if there is a relay failure it will likely fail in the dead position and low beams would still work. If you use 2 relays then you need to rely on at least one of the relays to work to get any headlights.

 

[lilredex]

Not that complicated. A dimmer switch is a (latching) SPDT switch. You could use a toggle or rocker type for that.


http://www.vclassics.com/archive/relays.htm

 

[joe_padavano]

Wire power from the main headlight switch to both terminals 1 and 3
Wire terminal 2 to the low beam
Wire terminal 4 to the high beam
Problem solved.

Of course, I doubt this pushbutton switch has enough current carrying capacity to replace a dimmer directly, so as you noted, you'll have to use terminals 2 and 4 to power relays, but the wiring on the switch is the same.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I used a steering column tilt lever drilled to hold a micro switch. It is connected to a relay for the Gearvendors Overdrive function.
The turn signal lever is also drilled for a micro switch to control high and low headlight relay

 

[Milton Shaw]

I just replaced the column mount switch with a floor mount dimmer switch from an older car. Three wires and just mount it to the floor was all I had to do. The wiring up the column was the problem. Did have to cut hole in carpet for access to the switch.. Switch contacts were heavy enough for standard halogen/sealed beams.

 

[checkthisout]

Yes, it would work fine as a high/low switch.

You'll need a separate switch to turn power on and off though just like a regular car.

 

[ttpete]

1970s VWs used a Bosch latching relay for headlight dimming. It was actuated by grounding one relay terminal at the dimmer button on the turn signal lever. They're still available:

https://www.mtmfg.com/part/view/rel...lSwm7UqixnuOFMDJF4YUqMUTBwSvS2YBoChN4QAvD_BwE

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=462571

 

[tlmartin84]

It worked just fine. Hi/low from the switch and two standard relays.