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Automotive wire

JackOfDiamonds

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Idaho (USA)
I'm installing a rear dashcam so I will be running about 12 feet of wire to my rear liftgate. I have to snake it through the rubber cable grommet, and under plastic moulding, so I don't want wire that's too fat or stiff. On the other hand I don't want it to overheat or melt.

How do I decide what size wire to buy, and how do I buy the right kind of insulation? I believe the dash cam would be ok with a 2 Amp fuse.
 
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JackOfDiamonds

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It's a Viofo mini 2.

I'm aware of dashcams with the combined front and rear cameras. But I have typically preferred to just install normal dash cams front and rear. Partly because they are cheaper, because I already installed a front and decided I want to add a rear later, or something like that, plus the wiring is supposed to be easier...

On my Toyota I tapped into the rear cigarette socket, but on my Dodge, I'm having a hard time even finding any 12V anywhere on the rear of the car and might have to go all the way to the fuse box. It would help to have a wiring diagram.
 
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casmurbax

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Wilton, NY
The one I bought came with the cable and it connects to the front cam. I ran it between the headliner and the roof. Left all the extra in there as well, no issues.
 

BrandonV

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Arizona
It's a Viofo mini 2.

I'm aware of dashcams with the combined front and rear cameras. But I have typically preferred to just install normal dash cams front and rear. Partly because they are cheaper, because I already installed a front and decided I want to add a rear later, or something like that, plus the wiring is supposed to be easier...

On my Toyota I tapped into the rear cigarette socket, but on my Dodge, I'm having a hard time even finding any 12V anywhere on the rear of the car and might have to go all the way to the fuse box. It would help to have a wiring diagram.

The Viofo Mini 2 doesn't accept 12V power. It's powered by USB which means there is a power adapter involved.

I'd just buy the hardwire kit.

 
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JackOfDiamonds

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In this case I have the old version that uses mini-USB, and they no longer sell the hardwire kit for it. I just have to use to USB adapter it came with which is almost the same thing as the hardwire kit.

The hardwire kit is just a USB power supply anyway; I need that regardless and I still need a source of 12V to connect it to. Even if I used the hardwire kit, it's not long enough to reach all the way to the engine bay so I still need to run some new wires back.

From my research so far, standard PVC wire called "primary wire" is what I want, and 20 or 22 guage should be sufficient, and I probably don't need a ground wire although I do wonder if the ground connection is good enough in the lift gate considering it only connects to the var through the hinges and latch.
 

BrandonV

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"Primary" wire is fine but I rather run SAE J1128 GXL or TXL when I can. It's better than primary wire for heat and temperature while still being more flexible than SXL due to the thinner insulation.

I like to stick to 18 gauge just for the tensile strength of the wire itself. You probably won't pull more than 1A on that circuit. The ground will be fine.
 
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PWC Repair

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Dec 27, 2012
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Arkansas
I just hook up the reverse cam power to the reverse light circuit. Usually tap in right under the rear or inside the rear plastic. put it in reverse........the camera powers up. I prefer 18ga primary wire for low amp accessories.
 

Steve W.

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Southwest oHIo
I just hook up the reverse cam power to the reverse light circuit. Usually tap in right under the rear or inside the rear plastic. put it in reverse........the camera powers up. I prefer 18ga primary wire for low amp accessories.
For a REVERSE camera, that is damn near perfect. :thumbup:

However, he said he is installing a REAR-FACING DASHCAM, which means the reverse lights will NOT be on. :dunno:

.
 

reader2580

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Minneapolis, MN
I would not feed anything from the power to the lights on modern cars. Some cars the lights have network connections (stupid, I know). Modern cars also often monitor the voltage and/or amperage draw to each light to detect a non-working light.
 

PWC Repair

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I would not feed anything from the power to the lights on modern cars. Some cars the lights have network connections (stupid, I know). Modern cars also often monitor the voltage and/or amperage draw to each light to detect a non-working light.
But on those that have feedback to an outage moniter or BCM, there is most often also a 12v source right there to grab power from anyway.
 

bwringer

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Indianapolis
I would not feed anything from the power to the lights on modern cars. Some cars the lights have network connections (stupid, I know). Modern cars also often monitor the voltage and/or amperage draw to each light to detect a non-working light.

All we know is that the vehicle is a Dodge of unknown vintage and model. So we can't offer advice on what circuits might be back there to tap or whether it's safe to do so, whether a CANBUS adapter of some sort might be of use, where to stash the USB power supply, etc.

Anything powered by USB is drawing very little current. so the main concern is just having something physically robust.

If you do need to run 12V to the back of the vehicle, I'd use 2-conductor cable, something with two wires inside a jacket, like this stuff chosen at random from a Google search:

It looks like this dashcam uses its own wifi setup, so the USB is used only to provide power.
 
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