Average Garage for the Average Guy
- Thread starter mobgma
- Start date
Garage was a decent size for two cars. Measures 24' deep x 34' long. Needed a lot of work so I got started.
Needs new drywall/ and insulation in some spots.
Needs a lot of spackling repair.
Needs new roof plus venting on the roof. Asphalt shingles prematurely curled.
Some minor seeping or weeping through 3 parts of garage.
Needs Paint
Needs Baseboards.
Needs proper Lighting
Needs Garage Openers.
Needs door rails/spring tuned up.
Needs new drywall/ and insulation in some spots.
Needs a lot of spackling repair.
Needs new roof plus venting on the roof. Asphalt shingles prematurely curled.
Some minor seeping or weeping through 3 parts of garage.
Needs Paint
Needs Baseboards.
Needs proper Lighting
Needs Garage Openers.
Needs door rails/spring tuned up.
Deleted the pictures of the slight seeping of water when my significant other would water the flowers. Might be able to see it in the video below I linked. The garage is not on a concrete footing. It was originally a single garage and the owner before me converted it to a double. The person I bought it from put the garden soil right up against the siding which I thought was crazy.
I have since fixed the leaking issue with Rustolem clear silicone spray, crack fill, cut excess crack fill, Rustoleum spray again then I put a 12" waterproof flashing membrane along all of the exterior walls of the garage. The dirt siding was the hardest part. No more rain seeping in as I tested it out by spray washing the siding. It has also rained multiple times and the woman has watered the flowers plenty. The siding goes doen past the concrete about 4 inches.
I am not sure what to put as a backing in lieu of the dirt being against the siding. Maybe some of you have ideas? I have put the dirt back against it for now since the siding was already dirty.
Condition of the floor. Might be able to see where water seeped in.
I have since fixed the leaking issue with Rustolem clear silicone spray, crack fill, cut excess crack fill, Rustoleum spray again then I put a 12" waterproof flashing membrane along all of the exterior walls of the garage. The dirt siding was the hardest part. No more rain seeping in as I tested it out by spray washing the siding. It has also rained multiple times and the woman has watered the flowers plenty. The siding goes doen past the concrete about 4 inches.
I am not sure what to put as a backing in lieu of the dirt being against the siding. Maybe some of you have ideas? I have put the dirt back against it for now since the siding was already dirty.
Condition of the floor. Might be able to see where water seeped in.
marty_p
Well-known member
1) Welcome to The Garage Journal! 
2) Congrats on your new pad!
3) Update us as you spend your hard-earned cash!!!
2) Congrats on your new pad!
3) Update us as you spend your hard-earned cash!!!
ilovevocs
Well-known member
Appears to have a gable vent. Is it not function or are you lacking soffit ventilation? Be sure to utilize only one method of ventilation for exhausting. If you mix and match, e.g. Gable and ridge vent they will short circuit the soffit to ridge ventilation. Contrary to popular belief a good passive ventilation system is preferable to active ventilation for many reasons. Can elaborate further upon request.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Welcome. Nice house and a VERY nice, big garage.
I would not call a 24'x34' garage "average" at all for many of us. There are plenty of big pole barns and "garage mahals" here but in terms of ordinary suburban garages, yours is large. Congrats on that! Wish I had it. Sounds like you've got a handle on the stuff it needs to begin. Keep posting photos please. They motivate us all and hopefully our comments back motivate you to keep on with the work.
I would not call a 24'x34' garage "average" at all for many of us. There are plenty of big pole barns and "garage mahals" here but in terms of ordinary suburban garages, yours is large. Congrats on that! Wish I had it. Sounds like you've got a handle on the stuff it needs to begin. Keep posting photos please. They motivate us all and hopefully our comments back motivate you to keep on with the work.
Well I reside in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. My garage would probably be considered average amongst my coworkers but I realize what I think is average my be big for others.
I guess embedding is not allowed in garage journal galleries. Do not want to retype.. lol.
I guess embedding is not allowed in garage journal galleries. Do not want to retype.. lol.
There are no soffit vents. 2 small gables on each far side of the garage but do not appear to be working well if the shingles curled prematurely. I checked and they are not plugged or anything so I thought that maybe they were sized wrong?
The roof has since been redone and now has a louver vent as well. Since the garage is heated my guess is that it is not necessarily the venting that is the issue but the intake. I am aware that you should not mix and match venting systems but it is not the house so I wasn't too concerned. Hopefully not too big an oversight.
Roofing is IKO Cambridge AR West Composite Shingle. Limited lifetime warranty. Ironclad 15 years.
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Removing and re installing siding is a PITA. The garage is not on a footing but rather built and shimmed on 2x6's. Garage originally was a single and later converted to a double. Previous owner made siding go down about 3-4 inches below concrete pad. On one side the owner put the dirt directly against the siding above the floor line so when you watered flowers a little water would seep into the garage.
I have sinced fixed all the seeping water. Rustoleum clearcoat, crack filler, trimmed excess crack fill, Rustoleum clear again and then a 12" water proof flashing membrane along all sides of the garage. After many rainy days and after a good washing of the siding, I can confirm that there are no more leaks at all.
I have sinced fixed all the seeping water. Rustoleum clearcoat, crack filler, trimmed excess crack fill, Rustoleum clear again and then a 12" water proof flashing membrane along all sides of the garage. After many rainy days and after a good washing of the siding, I can confirm that there are no more leaks at all.
Floor grinded, crack repair and then spot grinded. The transition from the old pad to the new pad is somewhat smoothed out as it is just too much to material to get rid of. Garage floor is leveled decently with slopes angled slightly towards the doors.
Oh and the walls were re drywalled/ spackled. Sanded and a coat of paint put on! BTW Home Depot CIL Paint is garbage. Color is Seagull Grey and is an Eggshell Finish. Roof was painted as well. Painting the roof is a lot harder than it looks for those that have not done it before. big thanks to the lady for helping me. Painting is not hard but I somehow found a way to not be very good at it.
New Chamberlain Garage Doors openers installed. Not sure whether or not to paint doors are buy the cheap Home Depot Doors. Springs and rails have been tuned up as well. Looks great and works great.
Both are 1/2HP Whisper Belt Driven units. Work great so fr after about a month of having them.
Both are 1/2HP Whisper Belt Driven units. Work great so fr after about a month of having them.
Looking for a cost effective epoxy floor. No fancy coving, no fancy chips and no super high cost. Just a good value added flooring epoxy that will be a little more aesthetically pleasing to the eye but will still last and still perform when I need it to. Garage is for light duty usage/ DIY er/ Tinkerer. Firearms/Cruiser/Dirt Bike Maintenance only. No welding, woodworking or machining of any sort.
After many weeks of back and forth (and a ton of research) I settled on a Sika 261 product with a Sika 180/181 product for the outdoor lip in Agate Grey.
The 261 goes on about 80-120 Mils thick. This stuff (261) is used for commercial/industrial flooring projects. It is somewhat comparable to the high end stuff but not as good as the flooring epoxies from Garage flooring LLC.
Since my garage pad goes slightly outside I did a separate Sika 180/181 coating on a 12" lip about 50-60mils. Color match is great. The 181 is used for outdoor applications and will stand up better to the elements, cold, hot, and UV rays.
The whole floor might look like slippery glass however they used a shark grip adder as well as some very fine sand. The floor is not slippery at all. Tested it out last night and am not worried about the upcoming winter now. The floor is still smooth enough though that I can squeegee and mob without any issues at all.
So far so good after 2 weeks with it. My GF dropped my el cheapo Ryobi miter saw on it. I admittedly freaked out a little bit. After careful inspection of the floor there was no indent, mark or anything. This stuff is great and very happy with it for what I paid.
After a harsh winter we will see what happens though.
After some high traffics areas are used as well we will see what happens.
After many weeks of back and forth (and a ton of research) I settled on a Sika 261 product with a Sika 180/181 product for the outdoor lip in Agate Grey.
The 261 goes on about 80-120 Mils thick. This stuff (261) is used for commercial/industrial flooring projects. It is somewhat comparable to the high end stuff but not as good as the flooring epoxies from Garage flooring LLC.
Since my garage pad goes slightly outside I did a separate Sika 180/181 coating on a 12" lip about 50-60mils. Color match is great. The 181 is used for outdoor applications and will stand up better to the elements, cold, hot, and UV rays.
The whole floor might look like slippery glass however they used a shark grip adder as well as some very fine sand. The floor is not slippery at all. Tested it out last night and am not worried about the upcoming winter now. The floor is still smooth enough though that I can squeegee and mob without any issues at all.
So far so good after 2 weeks with it. My GF dropped my el cheapo Ryobi miter saw on it. I admittedly freaked out a little bit. After careful inspection of the floor there was no indent, mark or anything. This stuff is great and very happy with it for what I paid.
After a harsh winter we will see what happens though.
After some high traffics areas are used as well we will see what happens.
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Purchased 6" PVC Baseboards (No worries about it getting wet) for the garage to cover up the gap between the floor and drywall. Before I did this I had to shim the 2x6's so they were flush with the drywall. I also bought some top of the line caulking. The 6" PVC baseboards came in 8FT pieces. Cost me $20 CDN/ 8FT piece.
I cannot afford Aluminum or Diamond Plate Coving, SpeedCove or Coving by the flooring guys. I wanted something a little nicer than the rubber roll out stuff at Home Depot.
Did the basic 45 Miter cuts all around. Looks good. Transitions turned out really good. When I laid it all down I realized there are a few mini gaps underneath the baseboard maybe 1/8" max.
They are not physically attached the wall yet obviously. Just placed with basic cuts performed.
I cannot afford Aluminum or Diamond Plate Coving, SpeedCove or Coving by the flooring guys. I wanted something a little nicer than the rubber roll out stuff at Home Depot.
Did the basic 45 Miter cuts all around. Looks good. Transitions turned out really good. When I laid it all down I realized there are a few mini gaps underneath the baseboard maybe 1/8" max.
They are not physically attached the wall yet obviously. Just placed with basic cuts performed.
Baseboards are up now. Once they were up I had a few gaps/dips in 3 spots that were maybe 1/16" to 1/8" high and about 12" to 24" long. I was going to caulk the baseboards anyways but you really notice the gaps or dips once the baseboards go up. Again I bought some top of the line caulking for use in this application.
I contemplated leaving the baseboards white but I figured over time they are just going to get dirty and brown maybe. I still need to do the trim around all the doors and around all the windows. Will use regular MDF trim for this I think. Will also need to shim a few spots.
I contemplated leaving the baseboards white but I figured over time they are just going to get dirty and brown maybe. I still need to do the trim around all the doors and around all the windows. Will use regular MDF trim for this I think. Will also need to shim a few spots.
After a real heavy rainfall on Saturday night I noticed Sunday morning a little puddle maybe 2" in diameter slipping in from the garage door and door wall end. There is maybe a 1/64" to 1/32" gap from the door and where the door is supposed to sit flush. This is happening because of this gap but I also believe because the Sika 181 coating beads the water into little droplets just outside the garage door seal perhaps?
I am going to buy a 18 ft. Tsunami Seal Black or Grey Garage Door Threshold Kit. This should alleviate this problem. My concern however is that I can't squeegee water outdoors with this lip in place. I will have to mop up any waters.
I am going to buy a 18 ft. Tsunami Seal Black or Grey Garage Door Threshold Kit. This should alleviate this problem. My concern however is that I can't squeegee water outdoors with this lip in place. I will have to mop up any waters.
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Attached are some ideas I had for the walls inside. I used the Gladiator Garage Works program but pretty much any garage system can be applied here. It is open to discussion and all subject to change in the end.
Lowe's Gladiator System
Home Depot System
Pricing for both is relatively the same plus or minus a few hundred bucks in the end. Pricing that you do see is in Canadian Funds. I am leaning towards Husky as there are way more Home Depot gift cards for sale online than Lowe's gift cards. Most gift cards you can buy at 15-30% off regular price depending the value and the situation the seller is in.
Yeah I know its sort of el cheap but its looks decent and suits my light duty needs which is all I require. I do like the Gladiator RTA system because of the casters on everything (mobility) but hate the Dull Grey Diamond Plate. Maybe casters can be mounted onto some of the Husky stuff? Casters are not required as I have no real intention of moving the stuff but the idea that I can move **** around would be nice.
Lowe's Gladiator System
Home Depot System
Pricing for both is relatively the same plus or minus a few hundred bucks in the end. Pricing that you do see is in Canadian Funds. I am leaning towards Husky as there are way more Home Depot gift cards for sale online than Lowe's gift cards. Most gift cards you can buy at 15-30% off regular price depending the value and the situation the seller is in.
Yeah I know its sort of el cheap but its looks decent and suits my light duty needs which is all I require. I do like the Gladiator RTA system because of the casters on everything (mobility) but hate the Dull Grey Diamond Plate. Maybe casters can be mounted onto some of the Husky stuff? Casters are not required as I have no real intention of moving the stuff but the idea that I can move **** around would be nice.
KCarGuy
Well-known member
Nice looking House and Nice Garage.
Love the progress so Far...
Thanks for sharing and welcome!
Love the progress so Far...
Thanks for sharing and welcome!
Well I went to look at the Tsunami Threshold Weather Strip kit and for a 20FT kit they wanted $125CAD.
Settled on the M-D Building Products Threshold kit from Lowe's Canada in the link below for $80 instead. Virtually the same thing. Will be installing it tomorrow or the next day most likely weather permitting.
http://lowes.ca/weather-stripping/m-d-building-products-20-x-3-12-gray-vinyl-garage-door-weather-strip_g1196074.html?isku=8787590&linkloc=searchProductItemsImage
Settled on the M-D Building Products Threshold kit from Lowe's Canada in the link below for $80 instead. Virtually the same thing. Will be installing it tomorrow or the next day most likely weather permitting.
http://lowes.ca/weather-stripping/m-d-building-products-20-x-3-12-gray-vinyl-garage-door-weather-strip_g1196074.html?isku=8787590&linkloc=searchProductItemsImage
Mike14k
Well-known member
Thanks for sharing.... great photos.
Thedoc14
Well-known member
When i saw what you had to work with, I thought you are going to have a ball. The smaller the easier and less expensive, not cheaper just less space less to buy.
Have a ball looking Great so far.
Have a ball looking Great so far.
RaysnCayne
Well-known member
Wow, nice progress so far. I'm jealous of that nice work area you'll have off to the side.
As for cabinets/workbenches, what happened to the original cabinets, closet and workbench? If you're a light-duty guy, I'd clean those up and re-use them. They'll will work just fine and save you several hundred bucks over cheap, Chinese-made stuff. I see one plan incorporated a recycling bin. The real recycling could be done with all the cabinets and benches you keep out of the landfill and re-purpose!
If you find you need more storage and work surfaces, then hit craigslist, a Habitat for Humanity ReStore (if they have those up there) and architectural salvage yards. There's lots of old, well-made stuff to be found out there!
All my cabinets and benches were either secondhand or built from leftover wood and they work great. Plus, I spent a fraction of what it'd cost for box store stuff. Win-win.
As for cabinets/workbenches, what happened to the original cabinets, closet and workbench? If you're a light-duty guy, I'd clean those up and re-use them. They'll will work just fine and save you several hundred bucks over cheap, Chinese-made stuff. I see one plan incorporated a recycling bin. The real recycling could be done with all the cabinets and benches you keep out of the landfill and re-purpose!
If you find you need more storage and work surfaces, then hit craigslist, a Habitat for Humanity ReStore (if they have those up there) and architectural salvage yards. There's lots of old, well-made stuff to be found out there!
All my cabinets and benches were either secondhand or built from leftover wood and they work great. Plus, I spent a fraction of what it'd cost for box store stuff. Win-win.
jktruck150
Well-known member
Looks good! Can't wait to see everything else you are going to do with it!
Thanks for your input. I had no intention of reusing the last work surface that was in there as it was poorly constructed, designed and engineered. I originally wanted to build an over engineered working surface with 6X6 posts and 2x8's with some 3/16" sheet metal working surface over MDF about 18FT along the windowed wall etc etc. I then considered buying kitchen/laundry room cabinets with arborite countertops. In the end it would be very time consuming (in my current situation) as I have an ever growing list of things to do around the house/property that need to be addressed before winter. Since it is light duty I am settling on paying $250 for the Husky/Glad work benches. The Gladiator looked more appealing to me but am going to buy the Husky. I will say though I wish they were at 48" working height instead of the 40". I am 6'3" so yeah I do like higher working surfaces.
Full Size 66
Well-known member
Nice work, nice look. The only thing I would do is take that garden out from beside the garage. Most codes say the ground is to be sloping away from the building. If a foundation is present, which in your case is not, there will be 6" of concrete below the siding. So at a minimum move the garden somewhere else. The fix you described is an awesome band-aid it probably will come back to get you in the end.
Yeah I am thinking the end solution is to not have a garden there. We are coming up on winter so I will think about it over winter and address it in the spring. I was hoping there was a much easier solution or partition wall to put up between the siding and the dirt.
Something like Garage Siding, Partition Wall of some sort, then some more landscaping blocks, than another partition wall and then the soil?
Scottishross
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2012
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Looks great mate
BRIANBB
Well-known member
Can you just replace the seal on the bottom of the door? Also what I did was lay a bead of caulking just at the ends of the door on the floor to catch any water that comes in through the gap there.
Brian your input is very much appreciated. I actually haven't laid the threshold kit down yet. Was thinking of returning it and doing exactly what you mentioned.
I am torn with putting caulking down on my nice new floor and the seal doesn't work or over time needs to be replaced I will have nasty looking caulking everywhere.